Page 4 of 46 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 14 ... LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 685

Thread: Building Surface Tension

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,802
    Rep Power
    0
    The design is coming together now and Clint and team start to lay out the options with masking tape. Measure thrice, cut once !!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,802
    Rep Power
    0
    Now I turn my attention to the rear of the boat. I am trying to stay with the Back to the Future retro theme. I'd like to stay with a look that the factory might have turned out 40 years ago, but with tasteful updates. Here are some shots that I used to think things through.

    The Critter has always been one of my favorite boats ............
    I wonder if a fab into a rumble seat like pic 2 could be done ............
    Pic 3 is a mock up of where I'd like to take the design .............

    Well still lots of work to do
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,802
    Rep Power
    0
    The deck gets sliced to move pieces around ........no turning back now. As you can see in the third photo, the height of the actual back of the bench seat may become a problem. I am sure that the factory drivers bucket seats are higher then the height of the donor lounge seat, especially considering the fact the rear lounge section has a radius or dome. This will put the highest portion just where we don't need it, in the middle.

    Not sure what to do on this just yet
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,802
    Rep Power
    0
    Deciding on how far back the bench should be from the dashboard is also a compromise. The more space alloted to the front bench, the less available to the rumble seats. I figure that the rumble seats will be used mostly by little people, so we decide to go with 25"x25" cutouts, and then line up the other pieces of the deck. Based on some site research, current owners comments, and live modeling, we pick a number to go with. Who knows what the final outcome will be ergonomically speaking as there are still kinks to work out.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    3,291
    Rep Power
    23
    This will be interesting to follow.

    You are a brave guy. Just the type needed to make this work.

    Parnell was the master of the sawzall and turned his 1+3 into a 2+2 master piece.
    “Oh right, because you walked into strippers discount warehouse and said ‘Help me showcase my intellect.’” - Archer

    Bill
    Grand Rapids, Michigan
    1985 Donzi Criterion SS
    1967 Donzi 16 Ski Sporter, C16-409, Has a new home!
    38' Carver Aft Cabin
    1968 Sea Ray SRV 180 w/1975 70 hp Evinrude
    10" RIB w/15 hp 1984 Evinrude

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,451
    Rep Power
    17
    Yeah, I went thru a lot of blades and a lot of glass. Greg your project is very interesting. Fun to see how you think outside the "boat" Looking forward to a lot of updates

    Good luck

    Parnell
    Time forSweet Cheekz to find a new home

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,802
    Rep Power
    0
    Thanks guys for the kind words. It is certainly a lot easier to create the concept and start, then it is to finish!

    Here is the first step in the "puzzle" .......
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,802
    Rep Power
    0
    With the puzzle now laid out in human scale, I have some problems to contend with. The first is fuel tank size and location. I think I need a large fuel tank as we can't get premium fuel on the water where I boat. With that in mind I will need to carry enough 93 octane to at least get through a weekend when filling up on land if I decide to go with big power. We initially installed 4 bulkheads in the hull, two of which are shown in red with the one closest to the transom at 33" forward. We can either put a large tank in between bulkhead #1 and #2, or we can mount a tank forward of bulkhead #2 similiar to the location of the tanks that came from the factory which would really help balance the transom weight.

    The second problem is the lack of any real storage. Given the bench seat design concept, I'll loose any floor locker. I plan on opening up the area under the bow so that area could house a floor locker. Not that easy to get to but could hold the anchor and life vests.

    I have an idea Maybe we install the tank as outlined in yellow, then install ANOTHER, 5th bulkhead. Hopefully Clint agrees Then the sliver shown in blue can serve perhaps as a small floor locker that can hold wallets, cell phone, keys and the like. It could be hinged so that it flips forward toward the bow and would be readily accesible to both driver and passenger with no contortions required. It would be about 20" wide between the stringers but not sure how long or deep. Any thoughts on the subject always welcomed. I will need to get another Center-of-Gravity "sling" result with the fully fabricated deck laid loose on top of the hull as well to help determine the placements.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1,451
    Rep Power
    17
    Greg What distance is it between bulkhead 1 and 2? I put a 62 gallon tank in mine and I can measure how long it is this weekend. We could take a pretty good guess as to the size of the tank with that measurement. If you wanted a bigger tank than that I would suggest removing the bulkhead forward and reinstalling it as needed over two tanks. 2 tanks would be more expensive, more to go wrong and theres the issue of how to feed one to the other.
    Just my .02

    Parnell
    Time forSweet Cheekz to find a new home

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,223
    Rep Power
    19

    pretty unique

    You should make a plug when your done.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    10,510
    Rep Power
    34
    greg,

    that first pic you posted with the driver behind the wheel looks like the plantiff in a case against a Kennedy cousin.

    the old blue dot special

    just the facts ma'am, the story you have just seen is true the names have been changed to protect the innocent

    DUM DA DUM DA

    LMAO
    When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
    When the waves are high and the light is dying,
    well raise a glass and think of me...
    When I'm home again,
    boys, I'll be buying!

    My Ride

    Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes



    Contact Us

    www.lgdonziclassic.com

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,802
    Rep Power
    0
    Guys, when you are building a weedeater concept amongst this group you have to be careful with identities LOL lest you get "plugged" as Mike O mentions Parnell, the distance between # 1 and # 2 bulkhead I know is 68". I am in London now for work so not exactly sure of the width between the stringers but I think it might be around 22" if that sounds about right? I believe there is a small rise in the stringer so that there could be a small step in the gas tank. It would all help but my biggest concern is having tooooooo much weight aft. I always reach back to the various elders that have commented on the forward OEM tank location on the 16 being FORWARD of my 2nd bulkhead. If you can let me know what your tank length and width is for the 62 gallon yield that would be a great help. Right now, I am favoring the floor mount glove box concept.

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    3,303
    Rep Power
    24
    You could always go with more than one tank to get the size you need. On my 16, I installed 2 tanks in the floor (separated by a bulkhead) and switched between tanks as necessary. I ran the back tank most of the time and filled the front one only when I was going to be out for a long time and didn't want to have to stop and fill up.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,802
    Rep Power
    0
    I have been thinking through the rumble seat concept and trying to get a visual together. Rumble seat is a "bit" of an overstatement, as I started with trying to engineer a true rumble seat with flip and slide hardware, but could not get my "vision" to match my mechanical drawing capabilities so I think I have to give up and go the easy route. Anyway, I'll try and be a bit more descriptive with a the attached photos. Think of the hatch in the open, or up position using the hinges that you see. Now envision the hatch with a slant that would make it comfortable as a seat back, perhaps a 10-12 degree slant back? Now envision the hinges removed and let the entire hatch drop down into the hull with the bottom edge dropping into a stainless channel which means the bottom edge and a section of the hatch up top at the deck bridge would rest against an abrasion point that would scratch the gel over time unless there was some type of backer product that would stop that from happening. The product could be countersunk and attached mechanically, or perhaps glued via epoxy but the goal would be to protect the gel or paint from scratching over years of use. The chosen product can't be rigid as it will have to be formed to a radius albeit slight.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,802
    Rep Power
    0
    Well, time to sling some glass ..........
    Attached Images Attached Images

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 2 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 2 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •