Wonder if you could create your own "quick disconnect" wheel by using a standoff cylinder and then having the steering wheel column go right into and through the dash with the connect point behind the dash.
Wonder if you could create your own "quick disconnect" wheel by using a standoff cylinder and then having the steering wheel column go right into and through the dash with the connect point behind the dash.
1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"
Meanwhile, we have run into another snag - how to secure the hatches when down in the seat back position. The idea is to have the hatches hinged when on the deck as shown in pic #1. Then, if you remove the hinge pins, you can slide the hatch down and use it as a seat back like pic #2. The problem is I'm not sure if small hinges like that would be able to stand up to the weight of a kid banging back against them
The Sutphen's hatch gives a good visual of how small the hinges will be on each of the hatches.
1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"
When I decided to create a little storage locker under each of the rumble seats bases we also moved those seat base boxes forward a little bit to ensure that there would be some angle when the seat back dropped into place. It'll be like 15 degrees to make them a little more comfortable. I am assuming that the upholstery where the seat back meets the seat base will be angle cut at 45'ish degrees so the two join correctly. If that does not work, then it will have to be padded like pic #4, leaving room at the join area.
1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"
Maybe the solution is to change the type of hinge to a slip pin. Then we can fabricate a mini "gutter" out of either glass or ss and secure it to the back of the seat base. I've broken or ripped out just about anything that was screwed in on The Mule so I suspect doing it in glass would be stronger. Actually, why not screw and then glass them, they won't go anywhere for decades. One 1/2" thick piece, then another longer 1/2" piece over that one with a bit of a reverse radius cut to accept the minor radius in the hatch. Glass them both in, then 5200 a thin piece of delrin into the gutter to prevent the hatch topside from getting scratched and we should be in business and super strong
1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"
And here are a few more photos of the set up. I wonder if we should place a combing pad on the hull side to help with comfort? Add a few more lbs to piglet
1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"
Wait a minute, I didn't think that "modern" 16 Classics came with a windshield option. Isn't this a 16 ?
1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"
Windshields are/were an option on newer 16s.
All the worry about bench height on "Surface Tension" look how high those chairs are on the newer 16's!
Not exactly......on later model 16 Classics Donzi raised the seatback height to make for a more comfortable ride. At the same time when they went to pedestals they lowered the seat height just an inch or two. On my build, I want to sit as low as possible, even if its only dropping 4-5 inches total from factory, to be seated just a little lower overall. I don't know the year of the 16 Classic in the prior photo, but here is a pic of a 2003 16 with the rare windshield option that gives a good perspective on those higher seats
If Mattyboy were around he would know all the exact details but he is out of the country.
1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"
I think I may be closing in on my interior style. I'm not sure who still does true tuck n roll as opposed to top stitch, but I like the smooth roll addition in this pic and I think it will make the fold down arm rest look better if it can be done.
1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"
Tuck & roll & top stitch are 2 different stitches & 2 different processes. We have done stuff in top stitch, tuck & roll, base ball stitch, french seams etc...
The Donzi interior's are supposed to be tuck & roll.. The red interior you also pictured with the pleats that look similar to the classic pleats are also tuck & roll. With a tuck & roll you wont see the stitch, You would just see the seam and pleat, no thread. With a top stitch you would see the stitch on top that separates the pleats.... J / Lakeside
Yes they are. Have you worked with Mobern? I'm thinking retro classic with a 2" pleat but may add a splash of panel color like the attached pic. Two very different looks for sure.
1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"
I have a way to go, but in order to select final paints I first have to select (100%) what vinyl colors I will choose. I don't want a lot of grain in the vinyl I use. Just getting my kindergarten drawings together on options.
1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"
I think I have a good Option 1. Go with the added splash in the paneled center. On the front bench go with 3 striped panels, which should trick the eye to widen the bench. Then on the rumble seats, pull the same theme and match it to the outers of the front bench. That way when the rumblers are open, should be symetrical. Not sure if I would do the back rests the same way or just make those solid Would it look off to do only the seat bases?
1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"
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