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Thread: Building Surface Tension

  1. #601
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    Isn't it fun shopping for boat jewelry

    Those are some nice options you have there.
    Sean Conroy,
    1964 Formula Jr. (hull #2) project

    1972 Greavette Sunflash III
    1981 Kavalk Mistral project

    "A man can accomplish anything... as long as he doesn't care who gets the credit."

  2. #602
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    8000lbs. The picture of those rings is very deceiving. They look like they'll handle couple hundred pounds at most. The ring is less than an inch, which makes the bolts about 1/4"? How could they possibly handle 8000lbs? If they can handle that weight, I'm impressed.

    As a side note: won't the rings bounce around when underway and damage the gel?
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  3. #603
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    Just throwing out a site where I have bought quite a few ss hardware pieces with pleasant results.

    http://www.marinepartdepot.com/new316ststcl2.html

    1971 Donzi 18' 2+3
    1985 Eliminator 23' Daytona Offshore - Kevlar hull
    1988 23' Donzi CC F-23 with 250HP EFI Mercury OB
    1989 28' Team Warlock Offshore - single 548CID/600HP
    1990 23' Warlock Offshore - single 525HP
    Bill from Denison, TX - Lake Texoma

  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeller View Post
    8000lbs. The picture of those rings is very deceiving. They look like they'll handle couple hundred pounds at most. The ring is less than an inch, which makes the bolts about 1/4"? How could they possibly handle 8000lbs? If they can handle that weight, I'm impressed.

    As a side note: won't the rings bounce around when underway and damage the gel?
    Havent tested the limits, but FWIW, Wichard makes a bunch of stuff with amazing strength specs listed. Spendy, but the perf claims are usually impressive. Put another way, expect to be surprised by their stuff's ratings.

    Also, always worth understanding what a spec means. For instance, is it breaking strength or a working load limit? With safety factors, these numbers are often 4x or 5x apart, and often are not clearly ID'd as one or the other. In Wichard's case, they may only be about 2x apart.

    All that said, it still seems surprisingly high. I was trying to figure out if those bolts could be larger than quarter inch as well.
    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

  5. #605
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Guimond View Post
    I wonder if your 16's yellow color was the factory color known as "Bermuda Sand"?
    It was "Inca Gold."
    “Oh right, because you walked into strippers discount warehouse and said ‘Help me showcase my intellect.’” - Archer

    Bill
    Grand Rapids, Michigan
    1985 Donzi Criterion SS
    1967 Donzi 16 Ski Sporter, C16-409, Has a new home!
    38' Carver Aft Cabin
    1968 Sea Ray SRV 180 w/1975 70 hp Evinrude
    10" RIB w/15 hp 1984 Evinrude

  6. #606
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just Say N20 View Post
    It was "Inca Gold."
    Correct, Inca Gold. I was looking for a photo of boats done in Bermuda Sand, another factory yellow color in addition to Yuma Yellow.
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  7. #607
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    Here are the specs from the Wichard tech sheets. They also make these pad eyes in titanium if you can believe it.
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    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  8. #608
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    Quote Originally Posted by woobs View Post
    Isn't it fun shopping for boat jewelry

    Those are some nice options you have there.
    It sure is a great winter time activity.
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  9. #609
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conquistador_del_mar View Post
    Just throwing out a site where I have bought quite a few ss hardware pieces with pleasant results.

    http://www.marinepartdepot.com/new316ststcl2.html
    Another good site, thanks. I'm going to check it out. The pad eyes are 316SS. They don't come with bolts. If I get them do I have to use a 316 bolt or can I use 304 and still not be worried about galling. I don't think there is such a thing as a chromed Grade 8 bolt.
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  10. #610
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    Some more hardware arrived. There are only a few "plug in" style clips fender out there. The one on the right is from Hardin Marine (also sold by CP Performance) with the one on the left is only available direct from Cobalt dealers. The Hardin unit is good but the heavy duty build and quality on the Cobalt piece is amazing. Here's a video clip.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUBfAyqxUTk
    .
    .
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    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  11. #611
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    While I wait for another delivery of hardware today I went to the archive. We removed every bit of core from the deck and replaced it with Divinycell. After the layup was complete and the deck was faired and fully primed we put it on an electronic scale that I bought for the project. That weighed in at 409 lbs. 16 OB Baby is a bit misleading as these are not lightweight boats.

    Trivia tidbit - The 16 OB was named by Allan "Brownie" Brown after his 28' factory race boat, "Donzi Baby".
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  12. #612
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    Got a hardware delivery, this time from Canada. These come from a company in Vancouver called Rekord Marine Enterprises. They are spring loaded, you push in and it releases the latch. It also makes an excellent grab handle for the rumble seat hatches.
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    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  13. #613
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    Here is a side by side. The slide latch on the top by Whitecap is a knock off of the patented Southco slide latch. It's out of the running, the Southco piece is better all around as well as having the finger hold. The Victory Marine piece would need to have some welding done to the tip of the latch tooth. The way it's beveled would never keep the latches down in rough water. I'm sure they would spring loose. Not a big deal to fix that.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  14. #614
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    Thumbs down

    Those d latches look very good.

    The fender-pins/receivers are interesting, and well made, but I've never loved that style. One ends up wih metal maces that want to ding stuff everywhere when stowing or deploying the fenders. Unless one stows them hanging somewhere by the same pins, requiring a second set of receivers, set up to use the same lengths/configurations of rope. Pretty unlikely to have that on a Classic.

    For me, the solution is to use the right size dock lines, (typically much smaller than most use), leaving some room on the cleats for fenders. It's also less to stow with small lines, they are actually better for docking because of stretch, still much stronger than is needed, and better when stuck sharing space on a cleat at a dock.

    Regardless, even if I went with the pins, I'll make my usual pitch for the smaller, lighter ones. The big ones are absurdly heavy, built extremely well but to solve a needless requirement for strength. We've all see the absurdly strong pull on fenders and their lines, grinding (often dirty grit) against gel and paint. This happens even in quiet, calm conditions, because people use nylon rope for hanging fenders. Shock cord works great instead, and solves all these problems. When the fender is captive and the line is pulled, it simply stretches. For any who've never tried it, I bet you'll never go back. It's also perfect for the folks who use removable suction cup fender mounts. MUUUCH better chance that the cups won't pull loose or slide out of position.

    It's amazing when you watch a whole row of boats grinding and pulling at their fenders, abusing the fenders, lines, mounts, fiberglass and finish as they are twisted and pulled under great force. In contrast from a boat using shock cord to hang them. It's quiet as can be, with the fender just hanging where it should, working only as a cushion between the surfaces. It seems like magic until you figure out why it's behaving so differently.
    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

  15. #615
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    Agree, storage is always a problem in a tiny boat. I anticipated that and have the storage for the two fender-pin bumpers figured out under the rear transom hatches. These will take a fat 5" diameter bumper. You do make a good point about fender clips banging around when stored underway. I think I'll just use the corner braces and drill a hole in there to clip in the pins. I added these corners specifically to give me a mounting point for whatever might arise. The smaller pins are kind of odd. They have the same size dock line circle as the Cobalt pins. They should have made them smaller to match the pins IMO instead of copying the other.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

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