Building Surface Tension

[Greg Guimond]

A little progress before the New Year. Here are the storage cavities that will be under each rumble seat. Nice radius cut out and then primed. We are not going to prime ANY more of the hull now at this point until the full tank is finished and trial fitted and all the little checklist build items are gone through. It is surprising how even on a tiny boat like the 16 there always seems to be one more thing on the "list". It makes Mr. Carter's efforts all the more amazing.

[Greg Guimond]

The transom will require a corner brace on both sides to be glassed in. These will be used to hang rigging pumps as needed. Here is a pic of a 12"x12" which will be raised up a bit to not trap moisture and also allow you to retrieve lost nuts and washers. There is 5" space behind so enough for your hand and wrenches.

[Greg Guimond]

The battery location will be one of the last thing that gets decided so we need some flexibility for front to rear. The front location will be under the bow floor to keep as low a center of gravity as possible. It is 88" back from the bow tip in the second photo below. At the rear I also want something fabricated to allow for a ski pole.

[yeller]

Hey Greg, in reference to your drawing in post 227, that's pretty much what I was talking about. You have a few inches to recess the holder, correct? Recess it as much as you can and then build outwards enough to accept a drink holder. If the transition is curved smoothly enough, I think it'll look real good.

[Greg Guimond]

Thanks Yeller, we are looking into that. Also have to set up for a small Fortress Anchor. I'd like to have a set of SS chocks all the way up front in the nose for occasional use but a little worried about how it could be secured with no fear of ripping loose. I also think that we can use the two transom hatches to glass in fender holders. Polyform offers a small G1 3.5"x13" fender in red and I think we can glass in 3 sleeves per side so that there is an easy holding spot for extra little fenders as needed. You can't have enough fenders.

[Greg Guimond]

Also coming back around to the gel pattern and if a small boot stripe is the best way to go. I am leaning heavily toward no boot stripe at all. Here are some photos of both.

[Greg Guimond]

While there is still a lot of little glasswork things to complete on the hull, it is into 2011 with a freshly primed deck from Clint and the team. Nice....

And here in pic #2 below is a flattie with a three person bolster. Done by one of the best shops on the left coast it is very cool. I wish I could do center steering on the build. Hmmmmmm In thinking of how the upholstery will come together, I have catalogued different front bench photos for ideas.

I wonder how hard a deck plug would be and what weight it would save if done via vacuum infused composite. It weighs 409lbs pre-spray. If anyone out there, maybe Offshore Ginger, or others have a feel for weight reduction v strength I'd appreciate any input. Can the deck weight be reduced by 50%?

[Greg Guimond]

16's have no storage so I wanted to use every space. I figured out a wet/dry storage locker set up between the rumblers and Clint and team did a nice job with the initial fabrication. I think we'll spray them red.

[Carbo]

OK enough is enough. Every time you change something you get me thinking. Now I'm looking into changing the under front deck area to flat w/storage.......You got me changing the motor well also.......just finish it already. lol. Looks great Greg.

I'm still sanding/filling/priming top deck........bracing hull/sanding hull.......

[Greg Guimond]

Every time I change something I get ME thinking That is half the fun anyway. We now have a gas tank, it should be north of 51 gallons but not 100% sure by how much. At the last minute I had the sender location moved in hopes of using a different sender vendor. I have to look up the GC tank preservation procedure to make sure this thing last decades.

[Greg Guimond]

Still have to ensure that the tank lasts forever. I'm thinking perhaps we should NOT foam the tank bottom. Here is a redux of the steps and foam. Any thoughts on the foam from those who have done it welcomed

1. Scotchguard the entire surface of the aluminum tank and remove EVERY BIT OF SHINE on aluminum.

2. Clean entire tank surface with a mild soap like Dawn, dry it with a towel and hairdryer.

3. Wipe entire tank down with Acetone to remove traces of oil or contaminants.

4. Pime the bare gas tank with 3 coats of BASF R-M EP789 two part epoxy primer in black. This particular primer has a lot of zinc chromate. Second choice would be Interlux Primocon.

5. Final step will be to apply George Carter's coal tar epoxy treatment. I think this is the stuff...."Epoxy.com Product #216 Coal Tar Epoxy Coating Resin System" is a two component coal tar epoxy coating used to protect steel, concrete structures, timber, and other construction materials in corrosive environments.

In my application, I think we will only apply to the bottom, sides, and ends of the custom tank. The above 5 steps are all intended to protect the tank but as important is how to properly install the tank. On my project, I have no choice but to foam in the tank. I need to so that it adds to the overall structural rigidity of the hull stringers in general, and the pad in particular. This is where I could use some feedback from folks on the board if my choices are wrong. Right now, the plan is to bed the tank directly into a light foam base and also foam the sides and ends in. Then, the top of the gas tank will have mechanical cross fastener strips. Below is an example.

[Greg Guimond]

With the long weekend and no snow I got to thinking on windscreens and the like. Not sure I even like the idea yet, but came up with a thought that might stay within the project's resto-mod theme of what the factory might do if they were to build the 16 Baby OB today. Could also do a single middle and make it the L solid to match the stripe and deck color when in the down and flush position. I have heard that a "lip" at the top of the screen will significantly redirect the wind flow.

Have to give it some more thought, but off the cuff picture .............(sans shaggy dog in back window)

[mermademarine]

I just saw your last reply after suggesting a deployable wind screen on another thread.
In response to your another question, a foamed in tank will last forever if you can keep the water off of it, if not let it breathe.
If you have the space you can tape 1/2 foam board to your tank, cover it in plastic and foam it in. Once the foam has cured you can pop the tank, glass over the foam, and install the tank on dry deck or something similar.

[Carbo]

I went the coal tar epoxy route. Sanded with 220 wiped down with acetone, sanded again lightly and washed with acetone again. Then rolled on 3 coats of Rustoleum 2 part coal tar epoxy. I found no need to prime as I tried a test area and could not remove the coal tar with a scraper afterwards. The can even said apply to clean degreased metals. I bet the finished coating is probably 3/16" thick. Came out great. I am going to foam it in place leaving channels between foam areas room for any water to drain out.

The area it goes into will not be sealed an will drain aft. I opted not to seal the area as I am sure water will at some point get to it. Pictures will follow on my resto thread later.

[Greg Guimond]

Looking forward to the pictures.....thanks