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Thread: Building Surface Tension

  1. #571
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    Here are a few examples of all yellow hulls that I have been staring at. I think the look should really pop after the details start to come together.
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    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  2. #572
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    Another one to look at. Is that Zeiger steering? Oh, snap!!

    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  3. #573
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    I like the sample yellow you got. Nice and bright! The 80's yellow sample you posted is too muted.

    You wouldn't happen to know who makes that bow sheild would you? Can't find a match on google.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  4. #574
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    The hull is way up North at the shop but I will ask Clint to take a look at the back and see if there are any markings and PM you
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  5. #575
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    .
    One last picture that shows a tiny spot of what is most likely "Yuma Yellow" with a Grumble Green stripe. The yellow color has been preserved under the rub rail of the Ski Sporter for almost 50 years. The search function on the site is very good. I was able to find a post from very, very, early in the boards life (RIP Scot) ............. from May 7th, 2001.

    Evidently there is an actual factory "color chart" that shows Yuma Yellow from Ferro. I wish I could find that OEM Color Chart from the 1960's. Here is the post from 14 years ago .................

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg View Post
    I have a mid-60's 18' 2+3. I'm not real sure of the year, I have registration from '64-'68. More on that later. In the folder that came with the boat there were two original color charts from Donzi.
    On the top it says "Colors and Fiberglass by FERRO. The yellow was called YUMA YELLOW and the id # is 973.

    I realize that this is much older than your boat but its all I have on the colors. I have more original info to get to Scott as soon as I get it all together. For all of us with red boats the color is Lucan Red #1828.
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    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  6. #576
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    While I figure out the final details of the "Yuma Yellow" color match I've been sorting out some of the hardware that I need. Even for a little 16 there are always many items. From Bow to Stern I quickly thought of 11 .............

    1. Bow Trailer Eye and Bow Plate - Selected and Installed
    2. Bow Navigation Light - Recessed or Raised?
    3. Bow Lifting Ring - Recessed or Raised?
    4. Wrap Around Rail - Re-using OEM with a slight stanchion modification
    5. Passenger grab handle in gunnel - Recessed or Raised?
    6. Dual Fuel Fills - Depends on location. Might go raised look with old school spring load caps I found
    7. Bow and Stern Cleats - Not going pop up. Instead using a fold flat design. Three to choose from
    8. Midsection Fender Clips - Selected and in hand. Need to install
    9. Rumble Hatch Hinges - Selected. Spring loaded detent pin from Imtra
    10. Rumble Hatch Latches - Selected. Turn and compress latch. Not sure I like the round look
    11. Transom Lifting Rings - Nothing OEM. Have to get a price from a fabricator
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  7. #577
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    One of the trickiest items has been finding a hinge that will work for the Rumble Seat hatches.

    I needed a hinge that could come apart and still stand up to a beating in the ocean. There were two slide apart options but they did not have a stop of any sort. That narrowed it down to only two other options on the market if you can believe it. If anyone is aware of another vendor for a take apart hinge with pre-sprung pins let me know. The one I think will work is from Imtra but is made in NZ. While they are a little smaller than I was hoping for they are chrome on brass and have a spring loaded pull-out pin as a part of the assembly. This way, you can pull the pins out and remove the hatch entirely. I did not want to deal with a small wire holding a pin and then breaking and the pin going in the drink. These also have a 180 degree swivel so that I can fold the hatches back onto the rear deck without having to remove them. The only thing I am not sure of yet is if they have enough overlap onto the glass when the holes are drilled so I have to check into that. I don't want any spidering over time. I had found a sample picture from a Ford to eyeball the look a bit. Then, I laid out my actual Imtra hinges along with a Taco compression handle I have to see what it all looked like on a piece of vinyl that is almost the size of a hatch. I'm not sure I like the round look of the Taco yet and it also seems to be too big at 3.5" against the rear hinges. The visual symmetry is off. I can't decide if that is because of the round bezel or the fact that the handle is so much bigger.

    One thing that is for sure is that the hatches must lock into place when underway and not rattle. The correct latch handle will be key as the hinges already are a little less tight on tolerance than I might have hoped.
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    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  8. #578
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    I also got the bow and stern cleats selected. I wanted a fold down that was a little retro looking. The pop-ups are a little too sleek. There were three fold flat options out there. I chose a cleat from Replacement Boat Parts that Clint dug up first because the cleat itself was the entire length of the bezel so it's easy to double up on lines when its rough. Also, I liked the curve of the cleat as opposed to straight. I got them in a studded model so there will be no visible screw heads but they come both ways.

    To finish off the fender protection I dug up the set of custom fender clips that I had stowed away. These are pretty substantial and snap right into the receiver so you can keep a set of fenders pre strung and just plug these in for extra protection as needed. I have not decided exactly where I am going to have them mounted yet but I'm thinking mid to forward to hang a fat boy for when the USCG pulls me over.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  9. #579
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    I've always liked those fender clips. Makes it super quick and easy to set up your fenders.
    Good choice on the other cleats. I liked the RBP's or Accon's. They would look more uniformed when folded down.

    As for your bow light......well, I like super sleek, so normally I would recommend recessed. On your boat however, I think a raised one would look better. As an FYI, on my boat I don't even have a bow light, as it's rare I need one. I converted my old bow light to mount with a suction cup if I need it.

    I'd ditch the lifting rings altogether....unless you would actually use them. I know that pretty much everyone else in the free world likes them....but like I said, I like super sleek and the less hardware, the better.
    ........but the line beside my avatar pretty much says it all.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  10. #580
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    I like those folding cleats since they don't require water drainage. I made my lifting rings non functional so that I could eliminate some hardware and also seal them to the deck to prevent any possible water intrusion there. They can be put back to functional but I would never use them. I wanted to keep my boat as stock appearing as possible.
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  11. #581
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    yeller, funny you posted that opinion as I was thinking about staying a bit old school on the bow light at well and surface mount an led navigation light. The fender clips are going to come in handy for sure.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  12. #582
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl C View Post
    I like those folding cleats since they don't require water drainage. I made my lifting rings non functional so that I could eliminate some hardware and also seal them to the deck to prevent any possible water intrusion there. They can be put back to functional but I would never use them. I wanted to keep my boat as stock appearing as possible.
    Carl, we built the hull with reinforcements to accept the lifting rings. I'd like to have them as I can just raise the boat in my garage to pull the trailer out if needed. My brother also has a crane so cleaning the bottom would be super easy. smidgen too was good enough to forward me a picture of race rings off a friends Magnum. I'm not sure yet but I might have a mini pair of these built out of SS 316. Below is the picture he sent. I would change them a bit and have a second hole at the base to take the trailer tie downs while the hole at the top would ensure that the rub rail is not scraped. SS gets very expensive but I'll see what the price looks like next week.
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    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  13. #583
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    We finished priming with Alexseal and also finished the entire inner tub of the hull. The wet/cold storage locker and drink holders had already been done in the red gel coat test color. I need to decide if I want those re-done white or the new Yuma Yellow color. Right now, I'm favoring doing the drink holders white and do the storage locker yellow.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  14. #584
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    With the temps dipping down to 1 degree this weekend it left a lot of time in the house around the fireplaces. That led to pizza box mock-ups for the two rumble hatches to figure out the mounting hardware. I have the deck hinges figured out and will use the take apart hinges. I think that I can also use the same hinge to anchor the hatches to the seat base when the hatches are used as "seat backs". That means I will need to buy (8) of those hinges from New Zealand.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  15. #585
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    I also decided that I don't like the more modern round latch in my pizza box so I narrowed it down to two options, both square and with an amazing difference in price. Each of them have an ample grab area unlike some that had a big bezel but then a tiny one finger round grab ring.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

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