George Carter
Central Florida
gcarter763@aol.com
http://kineticocentralfl.com/
“If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities
George Carter
Central Florida
gcarter763@aol.com
http://kineticocentralfl.com/
“If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities
10-4 to that George. I better make a choice soon or Clint is going to string me up. Btw, here is an pretty interesting tech paper on Gel "blushing" that I ran across. Might be of use to some folks on the board who - unlike me - actually know what they are doing LOL
As far as thinning it w/clear.....if it works, great.
But I found the more I worked w/my spraying technique, and the more I got on the surface per coat, the better it flowed.
The key is, to slow down, it isn't paint.
You're trying to get on 20 mils, not 6 like paint.
It takes awhile to get the required minimum on the surface.
However, Minicraft makes a thin, shiny version that's supposed to require very little finish. Since I've not tried it, or the 50-50 mix you described, I sure couldn't compare them.
George Carter
Central Florida
gcarter763@aol.com
http://kineticocentralfl.com/
“If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities
Some more progress on the hull bottom .......I have decided on a raised pad. It is 10" wide at the transom, then runs 6' long, finishing at about 3" prior to fair in. Then the hull gets skinned in vinylester in pic #2 and #3. I decided to keep the inner strakes at the factory location. There will now be a ton of body work to go through, including removing any hook that is present between the inside and outside lifting strakes. The pad will be dead flat and true both ways before it starts its transition.
The Scientist had supplied some wetted surface analysis. If I could actually figure out how to resize the attached pdf and bmp, those who care can read it. He used a 12" pad width for his calcs, but I decided to drop to 10" for a variety of reasons. It'll be interesting to see how it all stacks up to the calcs.
Time to start thinking about rub rail options. Sorry to say that a lot of sources have gone out of business with the far reaching economic troubles. It seems like Taco, Barbour, and Wefco Rubber were the only sources I could find. I have a couple of options so far, as shown in the pictures below. I even bought some red rubrail, the type that was used on some Whaler's. I guess a lot will depend on how the boat get's rigged. Right now I am thinking that every stitch of metal will be simple chrome. Isn't the factory deck grab rail SS though? Not sure how that would look. Anyone have a rub rail that they particularly like the look of, please post up a pic or two!
Greg,
As best as I can tell, I have the stock rub rail on my boat. If you need me to go out to the garage and make any measurements, let me know.
-Andy
Some more progress on the hull bottom as shown in Pic 1 below. Shortly the blueprinting will be done and the bottom will be primed in black. According to the Scientist and his calculations, at 54.5MPH we should have 2'8" or 32" of this pad "in" the water as wetted surface. This factored into the plan to start the gas tank 37" forward of the transom as shown in Pic 2. My goal was to allow for the possibility of heavier power being installed at a much later date. Right now though, the plan is for light, old school power
A little help with the bmp and pdf attachments.
“Oh right, because you walked into strippers discount warehouse and said ‘Help me showcase my intellect.’” - Archer
Bill
Grand Rapids, Michigan
1985 Donzi Criterion SS
1967 Donzi 16 Ski Sporter, C16-409, Has a new home!
38' Carver Aft Cabin
1968 Sea Ray SRV 180 w/1975 70 hp Evinrude
10" RIB w/15 hp 1984 Evinrude
Thanks Bill for doing that. I could never figure it out!
Now that the hull bottom is almost done I decided to take a look back at the report that "The Scientist" generated when we were in the planning phases of the project. Here is an excerpt from that.......
Q) What would expected performance difference be w/ 200hp v 240hp v 280hp engine options?
Answer) A similar performance analysis for the 200hp 16 Donzi With Pad, was also completed for the 240hp and 280 hp engine alternatives with results as follows:
The maximum predicted velocity for the 200hp with pad is 78mph
The maximum predicted velocity for the 240hp with pad is 82mph
The maximum predicted velocity for the 280hp with pad is 86mph
These power ratings are well beyond the original design of the hull, and may be hazardous to your health if used on your setup without suitable precautions and driver experience.
These projections are interesting to me given what the Test Mule has shown so far at 75.8 and 74.1. There is not much time left this season to prove The Scientist right!
I also have to re-focus a bit on the glass work that still remains to be done to fit out the inner hull properly. Although the boat is only a 16, I'd like to ensure that all the "little" things are added on and well thought out. For example, I am also starting to consider either removing the factory SS grab bar entirely, or changing it. I have to think on this one a bit.
Here is a picture (crayola version) of the hull "fitments" yet to be done. I'd like to find a really nice set of polished chrome marine grab rails that can be mounted right in front of the rumble riders. Not only will it give a great place for each rider to hold on, I also think a side benefit will be that it raises the site line off of the upholstery top with a nice transition. Maybe one idea is to shorten the factory grab rail and have it run from the original starting point back at the rear of the boat, and then only come across the boat in front of the rumble seats. Hmmmmm, I wish I could see how that would look.
Starting to also think about a few rigging details. For example, I tried to open a dialogue with the company that makes the dual foot throttle pictured below. Ideally it would be great to have a dual use hand and foot throttle set up. Ironically, Land-n-Sea did one decades ago but they are out of the business. In-Control makes a unit today as shown in pic #2 below, but feedback has been mediocre on the hand throttle portion. This unit from Sweden is the only other combo unit I have found worldwide. It is no different then cruise control in a car. When you want to putz around at 40 you just set it with the hand throttle. When you want to do the solo routine and jump cruiser waves, you pull the hand throttle back and work only with the foot throttle to "stab" at the rpms.
Any board members live in Sweden? ............
I also need to figure out how to deal with the splashwell. We decided to modify it such that the transom lip will be gone. That means the splashwell glass will join the top of the transom at a roughly 115 degree angle. The join spot is shown below in pic #2. I'd like to carry the SS theme that will be present with the rubrail choice pictured below and somehow have the same 316 SS edgeing that will prevent any dents from affecting the splashwell edge. Not sure yet how to pull this off but I think we'll need it because we will have an all red hull and transom meeting a white splashwell.
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