have a 16 DONZI O/B, motor is a 200 Mariner 20", thinking of installing a jack plate. Anyone recommend a set-back ? Most likely go with a manual. "HIGH LIFE"
have a 16 DONZI O/B, motor is a 200 Mariner 20", thinking of installing a jack plate. Anyone recommend a set-back ? Most likely go with a manual. "HIGH LIFE"
I can't recomend this because I didn't run it yet, but its 8" back and 5" up. It's there because it's in proportion to good setups on other 24 degree hulls I've seen. A 21' superboat, 16' superboat and a 16' donzi outboard that was in closer and not as high.
Maddy's Daddy
L.I.,N.Y.
just remember the further you go back the stronger the transm needs to be..
HIGH LIFE, what lower unit do you have on the 200?
May find some interesting points here!
http://forums.screamandfly.com/forum...d.php?t=158536
No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"
Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.
Throw a set of these in and you can use as much setback as you care to experiment with .........
My jackplate is not a set back.I have the transom reinforced but getting a stress crack.I was told by a fiberglass shop that this is minor and just the stress from flexing.The way they put in the new transom.Glassed in the top deck doesnt allow it to flex correctly.
Something is really moving to see gel coat pop off like that. Needs to be stiffer.....
I have seen this type of damage before, and have redone others work! The reinforcing plate is transferring the stress outward, without the plate the transom its self would flex and start cracking at the top all the way across. The only cure is rods with outer backer plates or very substantial knees, knees do not need to be big wide chunks, some of the strongest knees are built over 1/4" plywood ending up 3/4" thick. Most of the force exerted on the knees is PULL, the plywood is nothing more the something to glass to and hold the glass shape while it cures. The most important aspect is the anchoring to the hull and transom, the layup on the transom must be quite a bit larger area wise then many realize, IMO the best layup continues from one knee attachment point across to the other so the engine mounting bolts through it and at a minimum thickness of 1/4". There are a lot of slock shops, how many will do it where you will go through many season with no visible signs of cracking. Rods are the easy way!
No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"
Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.
Yes,this donzi needs work.It would make for a nice and fun project for someone here on this site.Iam too bizzy working over 70 hours a week.Iam asking here and now for anyone reading this post to consider taking this off my hands.Go for it!This 200hp johnson rocks and is completely restored.The trailer is completely rebilt everything new.I got 62.5 gps and it has more in it with the right pitch prop.Ive been asking $6500.Ive got $8800 in it.Will consider all offers......
Run the knees right up to the lip .........nothing stronger
Greg G , After looking at your pictures, do the knees extend thru the deck area to the stringers ? Before installing my motor I made up a 1/4" SS plate that goes down the inside 4" over the top 2" and down 16" plus 16" wide. P.S. if the knees go to the stringers how do you take the deck off ? "HIGH LIFE"
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