Here are some updated photos of the engine. I don't remember if I posted that I found a good shop right here in Orlando, very knowledgeable chevy guys. Anyways, they have been working on the block and heads and I attached a couple of photos. The heads are done and the block is started.
Turns out the heads and block are in great shape. Nothing was damaged in the incident. All that flushing and hard work paid off. The machinist said it the best looking motor, internally, from a boat that took on water that he has ever seen. Turns out, most people bring the motors in weeks after flooding and have never done a thing to them, not even drained them. So most are ruined by the time he gets them.
All the wearable parts are being replaced, seals, bearings, rings, springs, gaskets, timing chain, ARP bolts, cleaned painted, reassembled, etc.
In the meantime, I am cleaning and painting the bilge.
I am glad I made the decision to pull the motor. It turns out MOP was correct in that I could have put it back together and run it without all this work, but there were other factors involved that I won't boar you with in making the decision, the main one being knowledge.
Bob
I think you did the right things from the start. The machinist is correct!! People usually get POed and wait too long and salt water is a real killer Fresh isn't too bad-all depending on how long it is run with it in it. Every time I was going to make a suggestion you were already on top of it, so there was no need. The bright side is that you now really know what you have under the hood and YOU control the maintenance. Great luck.
Randy owner of Donzis since 1966
High Performance props 3, 4, and 5 blade. Turbo and Stainless Steel props. Props for old Volvo drives.
The reason congressmen try so hard to get re-elected is that they would hate to have to make a living under the laws they've passed.
Bob anti up for a new bump stick package, any other mods can be done later on!
No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"
Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.
I did inquire about the balancing, what is checking the line bore on the crank and zero decking the block?
In case anyone hasen't noticed, I am not real experienced with engine rebuilds. My philosophy has always been to keep up with the maintenance so I didn't have to rebuild anything. It has worked up until now. Although, I couldn't have notice this one coming.
Bob
line bore is when they machine the main caps down and line hone where the crankshaft main bearings rest,this trues the crankshaft with the cylinders,i would just havr then check it.. it may not need tobe done..
zero deck is when they machine the serface of where the cylinder heads sit,most pistons are abour .020 in the cylinder below the deck height,machineing it to zero will bump up the compression a little and will give you a better fuel burn whit the end results more power..
That makes sense.
You guys kill me. You just can't help but want to beef up the ponies. LOL
My intention is get a great running dependable motor out of the deal. I am not really interested in the 80 mph club. You also have to keep in mind that this is a MPI setup. I just can beef up everything and not have it impact something else. Not as easily beefed as a carbed engine. I spent a couple of days researching the removal of the water circulating pump. Something that simple got a little crazy with the dollars and in the long run wasn't worth the headache as I have 2 sensors in the thermostat housing that need to be there or it will drive the ECM nuts.
Anyways, for me to get a good running dependable engine is priceless. I am not saying that I couldn't have the same after upgrades and all the input and suggestions have been great and are appreciated.
What I am getting out of all of this is a great education, though. Can't put a price on that.
Bob
I more then understand, I built mine for max reliability. I was just thinking you don't want to be eating Georges spray all day!!!
No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"
Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.
Hopefully mine will be running before his. I should get a good head start.
Bob from some body who does a lot of this, I feel you are making the right decision. An EFI is much more difficult to work with, there are always trade offs. I did what I did because it was easier and cheaper for me, mine is a carb.
Randy owner of Donzis since 1966
High Performance props 3, 4, and 5 blade. Turbo and Stainless Steel props. Props for old Volvo drives.
The reason congressmen try so hard to get re-elected is that they would hate to have to make a living under the laws they've passed.
Here are some before and after photos of the bilge.
It is ready for the engine, I am working on that now. What a jigsaw puzzle. LOL
B
97 27 zx twin step yep it is the slow boat
500 EFI .........................with a little Boost and
a little more boost
48' Pacemaker Tournament Sportfish twin Detroits
Yeah... I was.... Kind of a Big Deal.....
Tex
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