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Thread: Now I'm getting serious....

  1. #76
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    George,
    Can you tell if the hairlines in the bottom of the boat are directly under the stringer cross section or under the outboard or inboard edge/corner of the stringer base?

    It would seem to make sense that your's would be under the outboard edge of the stringer base while ours, with newer boats, are under the inboard edge due to stringer & strake position. The crack that you showed earlier, inside the boat at the base of the stringer, was this inboard or outboard?

    Can you give me some dimensional numbers?
    What is the approx. spread of your inner lifting strakes, distance between star. outboard vertical face to port outboard vertical face?
    What is your stringer spread again, inboard face to inboard face?
    Stringer thickness? 1"??

    Something like this.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    RickS-E

  2. #77
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    The outboard corners of the stringers are 1" inboard of the outboard edges of the strakes.
    But there are other differences in the boats.....in the older boats, the strakes are filled in and glassed over flush before the stringers are installed. Whereas the newer boats inner strakes seem to be left open.
    Sorry guys, but my picture won't post so I deleted it.
    But, the distance between the stringers is 23.5", while the stringers are 1.25" thick. The distance over the inner strakes is 28", and over the outer strakes is 48".
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  3. #78
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    Like this George?

    I'll have to check my inner strake spread and confirm that it's at 30".
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    RickS-E

  4. #79
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    Smile

    Thanks Rick. I know there's been a lot of discussion about the differences between the older hull and the newer one. This pretty well defines it.

    I'm having to take about a week break because I had cataract surgery on my right eye this morning ( I had the left eye done last year).
    I did get a lot of grinding of the inside of the hull done yesterday to get it ready reinforce the inside. As soon as I can I'll finish that step and start the reinforcement process.
    Stand by......
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickSE View Post
    George,
    Can you tell if the hairlines in the bottom of the boat are directly under the stringer cross section or under the outboard or inboard edge/corner of the stringer base?
    It would seem to make sense that your's would be under the outboard edge of the stringer base while ours, with newer boats, are under the inboard edge due to stringer & strake position. The crack that you showed earlier, inside the boat at the base of the stringer, was this inboard or outboard?
    Can you give me some dimensional numbers?
    What is the approx. spread of your inner lifting strakes, distance between star. outboard vertical face to port outboard vertical face?
    What is your stringer spread again, inboard face to inboard face?
    Stringer thickness? 1"??
    Something like this.
    Ahem, that sketch does not appear to be fully constrained

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rootsy View Post
    Ahem, that sketch does not appear to be fully constrained
    It's a quickie, not for official use.

    I went out and measured my strakes again, 30" for inner and 48" for the outter strakes. So if George's inner strakes are at 28", I wonder when Donzi moved them to 30"?
    RickS-E

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickSE View Post
    So if George's inner strakes are at 28", I wonder when Donzi moved them to 30"?
    '01-'02......I think it's all part of the package, the use of tabs, porpoising, wider stringers, etc.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  8. #83
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    Voids under the stringers

    If you look at this picture (void under port stringer), which happens to be directly over the area I sanded the gel off the bottom. The 'glass is translucent enough to iluminate the void under the wood stringer core. As you can see, the stringer core is flat bottomed pine (1") so the outboard corner is the only part that sits on the bottom glass (a razor edge).

    Attached Images Attached Images
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  9. #84
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    I filled the voids on port and stbd sides w/thickened epoxy.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  10. #85
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    I took a week off to have cataract surgery on my right eye. I had the same thing done on my left eye about 15 months ago.
    If there's anything good about getting older, this is it. I think my vision now is better than any time since I was ten years ald.
    Anyway, I'm back at it.
    I've ordered some glass which should be in by Wednesday so I can really take advantage of the long weekend.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  11. #86
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    Someone was kind enough to forward to me the Donzi repair procedure for the stringer issues in the late model boats. Don't ask, I'm not at liberty to divulge the contents or post them.
    But if you follow what I'm doing, you'll get the gist of it, w/some differences.
    For instance, Donzi calls for and supplies long thin pieces of foam to core the built up radius on the inside stringer bases, I'll do that manually w/polyester putty. There'll be a step or two I'll leave out because my stringers are closer together than the newer boats.
    But this first step is right out of the procedure, glassing in a strip of 24 Oz. Knytex (double diagonal stitchmat, Donzi calls for at least 17 Oz.) between the stringers.
    Donzi doesn't call for any strengthening of the areas outside the stringers, but I'll be glassing in fairly wide strips in those areas.
    Afterwards, I'll be filling in the radii at the stringer bases and building up glass above them.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  12. #87
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    What may look like voids aren't. The glass is thouroughly saturated and solid to the hull. It's apparently some discoloration in the glass underneath.
    Also Donzi calls for this piece to extend from the transom to the transverse frame ahead of the engine. But since I haven't built a new frame yet, I extended mine another 15" past that point.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  13. #88
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    I wanted to "fix" the transom problems before I reinforce it with a couple of layers of Knytex. There were about a dozen extra holes through it.
    First, I tapered the holes to be filled with a countersink to start with then I widened the taper some more with small tapered rasp in a drill. After cleaning up the mess, I taped off the holes from the outside. Then I filled the holes with milled fiber filled polyester putty from the inside of the transom. There were also some silver dollar sized voids near the bottom of both sides of the transom near the hull bottom.

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    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  14. #89
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    This morning, I started on laying in a layer of Knytex in the bottom of the Stbd outboard side of the stringer.
    A lot of care at this point saves a lot of headaches later

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    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  15. #90
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    After CAREFULLY cutting and trimming the Knytex, I started 'glassing it in.
    First I carefully laid it into place w/all the edges snug upagainst the outboard at the chine, at the transom, and at the bottom corner of the stringer. Then, I folded the bottom half (longitudenally) up over the top half and started saturating the bottom of the glass that's folded over the top half. After that's done, I spread resin over the hull bottom, making sure it's covered. Then, I carefully picked up the entire length of the inboard edge of the saturated glass (it's just over six' long) and laid it into the bottom of the hull next to the stringer.
    You end up getting very intimate w/ the glass, smoothing it w/ your hands, brushes, and whatever else you might have handy to eliminate any wrinkles, voids , stretched areas, etc. It's very time intensive. If you run out of catalized resin, you have to mix it on the fly.
    After the lower half is in satisfactorally, I laid the top half of the glass over the bottom half I had just installed to saturate that part of the glass w/ resin and cover the top (outboard) part of the hull bottom w/resin. Then the top part of the saturated glass is laid up into its proper position and massaged into place.
    This is no time for mistakes, or oversights, or having forgotton something outside the boat!!!!!!!!!!

    Attached Images Attached Images
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

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