Love both of you guys.
Ken
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Love both of you guys.
Ken
I say leave it alone and enjoy it with the blown 502. :cool:
My suggestion to Glen was to build a monster, (say 570 in) NA engine.
At least he'd have more room w/o the blower on it.
As long as it's SEM, I'd vote for either the LS or the monster cubes. I dig both ideas.
Someday I'd like to do a 572, so GO LS!
Easier to make torque with a big block but a stroker LS with a supercharger should work nicely😁 My boat excelerates like no other boat I've had with the stock 502. Not sure a small block could duplicate without a supercharger👍
This is an awesome idea. ...but I gotta ask are you trying to challenge George for the longest build?
I'd think a LS3 would be THE ticket for an 18. :yes:
I agree, you can't beat cubic inches for building torque, and I'll certainly be giving up a bunch of it (especially on the bottom end). If I was going from a stock 502 to a S/C'd LS3, I doubt I'd notice any loss, but going from a SC'd BB to a SC'd SB, I'm sure I'll notice some loss. I hope to minimize the loss, by running more boost in the LS. I'm also strongly considering a wastegate so I can set up the SC to (potentially) make 15lbs of boost, but open the wastegate at 10lbs and dump the excess. That would help to build TQ and HP sooner in the rpm range.
Man....I certainly hope not....... :biggrin.:
Haven't done much yet with the build. Ground the loose burrs off the inside of the motor and quickly ran the grinder over the entire block just to smooth it out a bit. Nothing too detailed, just a quick grind. Then I washed it several times, blew the water off, and oiled it down. I checked all clearances on the crank and rods, just for peace of mind, then reinstalled the crank, cam, timing set and oil pump. That's as far as I've got for now.
I had already installed the oil pump and a few days later I was doing a google search for a crank pulley that would work with the Procharger and the LS3 damper and just happened to come across a thread about installing an oil pump. I consider myself lucky that I found that. Apparently, you can't just bolt on the crank driven pump. If you do, you could end up with incorrect tolerances and break the pump gear.
So I had to loosen the pump and remove the pump cover to clearance the gears. It took three 0.008 gauges for the inner gear to crank clearance and four 0.0025 gauges for the outer gear ring to housing clearance. I only had one 0.0025 gauge so I had to sacrifice it and cut it into 4 pieces.
The housing gets torqued while all the gauges are in place. If it's not done this way, the housing could end up too far to one side and the gears could bind.
Here's a few picks of the LS3 to see how it's made, in case anyone is interested.
A close up pick of the bore sleeves, because George had asked about them earlier.
Attachment 85255
The crank driven oil pump, timing chain and chain tensioner. (Chain is a single roller)
Attachment 85256
Full windage tray
Attachment 85257
Six bolt mains. Four on the caps for the crank and two on the side of the block to tie the caps to the block. The full width mains I'm guessing are to ad rigidity to the entire block. The rods are the nicest factory rods I've ever seen. In person, it's easy to see why these are rods are superior to the forged rods in earlier motors.
Attachment 85258
Heads with stainless steel exhaust valves.
Attachment 85259
Rocker arms are interesting. Notice the offset intake rocker and the metal that was removed to save weight.
Attachment 85260
The flat top pistons which give the motor a 10.7:1 compression. Fairly high for a boosted application, but it seems they handle 10lbs of boost fairly reliably....with good tuning of course. You can also see the lifter 'holders' above the piston. The head gasket is in the way, but you can grab the 'holder' and pull out 4 lifters at a time. The way this is designed, you don't have to remove the intake or lifters to change the cam, but you do have to remove the heads if you want to get at the lifters.
Attachment 85261
A pic of the valve cover. They could be a decent looking cover, but the mounts for the coils ruin them. I'm going to relocate the coils, cut the mounts off and grind and polish them. I'll then paint the indented lines......yellow of course. :)
Attachment 85262