Scippy
Looks like you been very busy there ,, great!!!
looking good, how much more fuel will you be able to carry now with the longer tanks?
Thank you
Jim
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Hey Jim,
What's really funny is I am busy at it, but can't seem to get out of my own way when doing some work under the deck. Although I removed the cabin/cockpit wall to make it easier to move around, you still have to be a contortionist to get anything done. The new fuel tanks will be approx. 62 gallons apiece and 12" longer than the old ones of 49 gallons and 53" long..........The area pictured is clean now after I removed all the poorly laminated woven roving that was kicking up, it didn't serve any good bond. I don't know the laminate schedule on this hull, but if it's anything like the stringers (1/2" plywood core and glassed over more than 3/8" on each side) it defintely won't miss a few layers in the belly.
Late to the party here .. good thread . .
I removed a through hull head on my Magnum 27, the water intake and outlet ports were just forward of the bulkhead at the top of the above picture.
The glass layup here is 3/4" thick! Boat was built in 1968.
I to will be rebuilding my transom, because I'll be raising my drives and engines . .my transom is still dry and solid, so I only plan to cut out the lower section and fill that in. Do you all think that a 30 degree angle cut to create a longer wider joint will be adequete?
Mario L.
68 Magnum
Scippy looks good and are you going to put a scarf joint on the end of those stringer's when replacing the new wood .
Artie, Those stringers will eventually be tabbed to the new cabin/cockpit wall (bulkhead if you will)........... If you remember, I removed it to gain better access to the area for fuel tank placement and to clean up a layer of peeled up WR.........Now, when the cabin wall goes back in the outboard stringers will be tied in much wider apart because the the floor was lowered by 7"
Scippy , funny thing i have seen it done more then once on other forums which has resulted in failure of some nature . Scippy , i sometimes forget everything that is going on and every once and awhile i need a strike of lighting :shocking::shocking:to keep my old AZZ on its toes , if you know what i mean . Ha ha ha ha
The TRS cutouts and thru exhaust holes are all scarfed and ready to be filled in now, but here in Jersey the weather has been seasonable and that means too cool to laminate (the magnum is stored in a 20'X40' unheated portable shelter) things might be heating up though, I'm checking out a suitable heating system, but until then just grinding and braving the cold.
You did it!!!!!!!
All that crap is behind you now!
You could use something as simple as lamps for heating the surfaces.
Looking good Scippy
Parnell
Scippy,
Keep it up. You will soon be ahead of my restoration that stalled out temporarily - :nilly:. What will you be using for a backing while laying up the glass? Will you try to do the entire layup and install the first piece of transom wood in one shot or will you do the glass work first? Bill
Scippy,
Nice work!
Now the plywood . . . will you use 1" thick or 3/4" thick to rebuild?
George,
Thank you . . . 7.2" isn't that bad to blend . . .I'm also considering gussets from the hull to the transom, two on each side.
These would be perpendicular to the 24 degree surfaces one up each side of the drive mounting surface . . thoughts??
I did rip out the wood below my drive cutouts today. And found that water had leaked around the brass tube from the hull drain. This was able to migrate up each side behind the plywood as the rear edge was not filled with anything prior to laminating in the plywood. I'll build the bottom in solid epoxy and install a thread in brass insert and not a brass tube.
Mario L.
George,
If I could, I'd like to heat a good portion of the enclosure just to extend the restoration through the winter and be comfortable while doing it, but we'll see........What would be the minimum temperature to realistically do fiberglassing?
Bill,
I intend to use a piece of melamine large enough to form the backing to the TRS cutouts and exhaust holes. Afix this to the outside of the transom and then start building up layers of fiberglass from the inside. Wish I had the Florida or even Texas climate right about now to keep working!.....no fun in the northeast for boat related fun this time of year!
Mario,
I found the same situation as yours in my boat. A relatively solid transom thru-out except for the small area around the drain plug. The moisture didn't wick but a few square inches around it, but this time around I will laminate fiberglass layers 1-1/2" thick in that small triangular area where the sleeve holds the drain plug. The rest of the transom (above this) will be 2 piece's of 3/4" marine ply.