Printable View
I need the part # and the length of rail to complete the boat. And the best way to do it. Im getting close to doing my deck off and the rub rail is a part I want to have so it looks good when its all buttoned up. I have all new stickers etc..
I also need new side rails too so please let me know..
I really dont have the money for them but i know they are a pain to change out with the deck on... SIGH
If you don't see what you need call and ask. Alan knows rubrails. Tell him Bert sent you.
He comes from a boating background and he knows Donzi too.
He ships too.
I asked for some help identifying what type of Taco rail I needed for the Donzi here is what I got back from some of the members:
Response from Lenny,
The holes will not line up from the past, but this is IT...
Rub rail kit from Taco is # A11-0151TAL12D. 3/4" is what you want for the 16/18. It is polished aluminum, with clear anodize. #8 screws. TAL6-1 is the 6' length. The above-mentioned one is in 12' lengths. You need four 12 footers to do the job.
Response from MOP,
As Lenny indicated it is the hole spacing that is different! A good trick is to hold up the new section of rail pencil mark the new holes positions. Then counter sink and install screws in in every hole you cannot use, this will be quite a few! No matter how hard you try some will be on top of old ones or right next to them. On those fill the holes with hard wood splints dipped in Epoxy, this will support the glass on close ones or give you something to screw into if it is half a hole! Drill all new holes, you will end up with a more secure hull to deck joint. Put a tiny dab of silicone in each and every hole this will seal and lubricate them, when done run a bead all along the bottom edge that will keep things dry.
and how do those 4 rails bend?
one even on the bow?
one on each side and one bent on both aft sides?
----Think rubber mallet.......Bill S
Moody, the rub rail bending is super easy. Dont worry.
thanks scott, how you been? take any tabs lately ;p I know the bending is easy i just wanted to know if I have the arrangement right..
Get yourself what is called a self centering hinge drill bit. It is a spring loaded drill bit that centers in the countersunk hole and drills a straight hole. A real good wood worker tool store will have them or get one on the web. It really helps make the job easier,you just put it up to the hole and press. Usually under 10 bucks.
Attachment 72203
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]
Second rubrails.com....great guy, really knows the stuff...had a Magnum back in the day too!
:)
Recently did mine. Here is the detailed info: good luck!
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthre...ion-Help/page2
so i take it the rub rails themselves are countersunk? so you have to drill the fiberglass so they fit in there correctly?
Yes, the rub rail screws only need to be drilled. The screws under the rail need to be counter sunk. When I last put my rub rail back on, I used machine screws, washers and nylock nuts. Have not had a problem with the rail getting loose since.
what you should find is at the factory they used regular flat slot head wood screws for the deck to hull joint and for the rail they used oval head philip screws. Maddad is right where ever you can thru bolt with lock nuts & washers do it .
the alum rail is not a big job , I have done a few , even to boats with an arched transom. you will also find that the factory used 3 pieces one long one like 14/16 feet then two shorter pieces 12/14 footers. pretty sure those are the lengths I know it was a damn bitch trying to get the rail out of the store without bending it.
the longer pieces can be ordered from west marines as a special delivery.
bend the first longer piece dead center across the nose then work down each side when making a seam have a file handy to put a slight beveled edge ( \ ) on each piece so they make a nice tight seam
you should have 3 seams one on each side and one smack dab in the middle of the transom
a little dab of clear silcone on each screw
At the rub rail splice joints you can also shape a 4 inch long scrap of hardwood such as oak, or maple, to the underside shape of the aluminum rail .
It takes some time to do this shaping~~~
A small scrap of Trex decking also works well.
Once you have this wood properly shaped to the underside of the rubrail metal you can then glue it to each underside end of the rubrail meal splice joint with 3M 5200 Adhesive Caulk.
Put only a small dab of 3M 5200 on the boat's fiberglass under the wood backer & splice joint.
Clamp , or prop, some wood on the ouside of the rubrail to hold it in place until this adhesive fully cures.
This will hold each cut end of the rail tightly together so it will not catch on any dock pile.
Do not over-do the use of 3M 5200 adhesive as it is very hard to remove later !