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John C in PA
07-13-2016, 05:52 PM
While I suspect the mechanics may have to pull my motor next week (sad story) I'm considering a cam change. I've got questions into Isky, Crane, Edelbrock, Comp, and have gone over Jegs and Summits sites.

Do you boys have any real life recommendations?

FYI: it's a 1992 Ford HO, 500 cfm 2- barrel carb and stock manifold (for now), 4,800 WOT using a tuned SST 14.25x21" prop.

John C

woobs
07-13-2016, 06:20 PM
I'd be interested in the results of your queries.... please share them here when they roll in :)

Any thoughts of stroking that SBF to a 347?

John C in PA
07-14-2016, 12:13 PM
This is when having a sbc would open up so many choices over a sbf :confused:. I've only researching "marine" cams for torque at low RPM and performance from 800-4800 RPM.

Still waiting for Crane and Comp Cams to reply but their catalogs don't show anything that fits my needs.

John C

turbo2256
07-14-2016, 02:22 PM
dO YOU KNOW THE SPECKS OF THE current cam?

John C in PA
07-14-2016, 02:56 PM
91-95 HO:
Lift: .278 intake, .278 exhaust
Rocker Ratio: 1.6
Duration: 276 intake, 266 exhaust
Overlap: 39 degrees, 19.51 factor
Lobe Center: 116 intake, 115 exhaust
Ford P/N: F1ZE-AA (91-94)

Don't know if marinized uses a different cam however.

​Anyone know if this vintage and type motor (HO) has roller or flat tappet lifters? I cant find it online and my motor won't be opened up for a few more days.

John C

tmdog
07-14-2016, 09:47 PM
[r.

​Anyone know if this vintage and type motor (HO) has roller or flat tappet lifters? I chant find it online anand my motor won't be reopened for a few more days.

John C
[/FONT][/COLOR][/QUOTE]

First year for the Ford roller cam, 1984. It was a 302 HO. Following year most all were rollers.

tmdog
07-14-2016, 10:00 PM
Cam advice from co. you stated will give poor guidance. A custom cam for your setup from Bullet Cam will be price matched or below. Old timers at Bullet know their cams and the power to be delivered from any specific engine. Web site ww.bulletcams.com
Call them, you'll get good advice.

John C in PA
07-14-2016, 11:11 PM
Cam advice from co. you stated will give poor guidance. A custom cam for your setup from Bullet Cam will be price matched or below. Old timers at Bullet know their cams and the power to be delivered from any specific engine. Web site ww.bulletcams.com
Call them, you'll get good advice.

Well, Crane hasn't bothered to reply and I haven't posted Comp Cams reply yet. However, I guessed flat tappet so the replies are NG anyway. Hopefully my motor won't have to be pulled so the cam issue may be moot.

John C

John C in PA
07-14-2016, 11:16 PM
I'd be interested in the results of your queries.... please share them here when they roll in :)

Any thoughts of stroking that SBF to a 347?

No intent to stroke the motor. I'm only thinking of changing the cam if the motor has to be pulled. Otherwise maybe an intake and 4 barrel.

John C

woobs
07-15-2016, 12:24 AM
... I guessed flat tappet ...

Pretty sure that's a roller motor if it is a 1992.

turbo2256
07-15-2016, 10:16 AM
Was this a boat motor to begin with or from a car?

John C in PA
07-15-2016, 11:27 AM
Was this a boat motor to begin with or from a car?

As it left the Donzi factory.

John C

turbo2256
07-15-2016, 11:57 AM
Just a bit surprised it was still carbed. I have a marine HO not sure of year from an OMC thats SEFI.

Next is do you know what heads are on the engine? Hoping their GT40 heads. Can be identified by having 3 bars perpendicular to the head mating surface on each end

84800

John C in PA
07-15-2016, 12:21 PM
Just a bit surprised it was still carbed. I have a marine HO not sure of year from an OMC thats SEFI.

Next is do you know what heads are on the engine? Hoping their GT40 heads. Can be identified by having 3 bars perpendicular to the head mating surface on each end

84800

My little Donzi isn't nearby and won't for a week or so. I'll check the heads then. The parts diagram only shows carburetors for this year and model motor.

John C

Turbochad
07-16-2016, 12:22 AM
John, I have the the same motor as you. The factory heads are not GT40 or GT40P. i don't remember the casting but basically they are junk. I put in a 10350701k Lunati cam and Edelbrock performer alum heads this winter. I just put it in the water yesterday for the first time but the motor feels really strong. The cam seems really good for marine use.

Turbochad
07-16-2016, 12:35 AM
91-95 HO:
Lift: .278 intake, .278 exhaust
Rocker Ratio: 1.6
Duration: 276 intake, 266 exhaust
Overlap: 39 degrees, 19.51 factor
Lobe Center: 116 intake, 115 exhaust
Ford P/N: F1ZE-AA (91-94)

Don't know if marinized uses a different cam however.

​Anyone know if this vintage and type motor (HO) has roller or flat tappet lifters? I cant find it online and my motor won't be opened up for a few more days.

John C


It's a flat tappet motor.

turbo2256
07-16-2016, 12:55 PM
If it is a flat tappet motor it should be easily converted to a roller tappet motor as it should have the mounting bosses for the spider needed to hold down the anti rotation yokes for the roller lifters.
Heads are most likely E7 heads. E7 heads as cast flow around 140CFM max. I do have a set of E7s professionly ported that flow around 220 at .500 lift (have been considering selling) actually flow better than many of the aftermarket stuff do to smaller ports and higher air speed and size of the 302.

With a rather restrictive lower intake and lopo upper and a stock HO cam it pulled 270 ft lbs at 2400 RPM peaked at around 300 ft lbs around 3600 RPM at 4800 was still in the 270 ft lb range. would have done a lot better with a torker II intake and a cam with no more than .500 lift. I would recommend these or a set of GT40s even over just a cam change. Also have a set of 1.7 Crane / ford Motor sport rockers a couple spiders for roller lifters no yokes or roller lifters though. The heads were set up with GT40 valves but just refeshed with Ferrea 1.9 / 1.60 valves.

John C in PA
07-16-2016, 12:59 PM
Well, there you go. 50% say that 1992 used rollers, 50% say flat tappet. I'll have to wait for the top to be pulled to confirm. The heads are replacements by the PO so I need to check them.

Chad, what carb and cfm? How many revs are you pulling? How were the sea trials?

I appreciate the real-life input.

John C

turbo2256
07-16-2016, 01:08 PM
I dont recommend vacuum secondary carbs for marine use on a rather fast boat as if the throttle is shut down quickly the quick shutting of the secondary's could shove the bow into the water.

http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/carburetors/marine/ These are some of the best on the market today

Should mention the dyno run was RWtorq readings with an auto matic figure a 25% reduction over what flywheel readings would have been.

John C in PA
07-16-2016, 01:27 PM
John, I have the the same motor as you. The factory heads are not GT40 or GT40P. i don't remember the casting but basically they are junk. I put in a 10350701k Lunati cam and Edelbrock performer alum heads this winter. I just put it in the water yesterday for the first time but the motor feels really strong. The cam seems really good for marine use.

What length boat is yours? I wish I had that much room up front in my 16.

John C

John C in PA
07-16-2016, 01:38 PM
I dont recommend vacuum secondary carbs for marine use on a rather fast boat as if the throttle is shut down quickly the quick shutting of the secondary's could shove the bow into the water.

http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/carburetors/marine/ These are some of the best on the market today

Should mention the dyno run was RWtorq readings with an auto matic figure a 25% reduction over what flywheel readings would have been.

I like their carb prices but I don't see a 450 CFM model. (Holley is adamant on that CFM for a 302 unless a big cam and other mods are done too.) Also, if you chop the throttle on either type of secondary actuator, the boats gonna dip in the bow. My thoughts are rather toward takeoff. You can't rev up a boat in neutral like a car with the clutch in or against a high stall converter. That's where mechanical secondaries work.

Vacuum secondaries should kick in when the vacuum is low and the motor needs more fuel.

John C

turbo2256
07-16-2016, 06:15 PM
I have been building engines for over 45 years for cars , boats , street strip, drags, circle track, road course, economy, trucks. I look more towards how big a prop can be run more than worry about RPM in a boat. Max power in a build such as I SUGGESTED WOULD be 390 HP at around 5600 RPM which dosnt mean that would be peak RPM.

DOUBLE DD'S
07-16-2016, 09:52 PM
listen to tmdog,,give bullett a call..they know their ****,,tms 384 pumpedc out over 500 hp and same as torque goes..as for me i use a extreme marine 278 and i wing mine past 5600....

Turbochad
07-17-2016, 10:53 PM
What length boat is yours? I wish I had that much room up front in my 16.

John C

John, mine is a 16 also. The reason it looks bigger is that at some point a previous owner cut the panel in the front of the engine compartment so you can remove it to work on the motor. It is tight like yours when installed.

Turbochad
07-17-2016, 11:01 PM
Well, there you go. 50% say that 1992 used rollers, 50% say flat tappet. I'll have to wait for the top to be pulled to confirm. The heads are replacements by the PO so I need to check them.

Chad, what carb and cfm? How many revs are you pulling? How were the sea trials?

I appreciate the real-life input.

John C

I am pretty certain that all of the OMC 5.0HO blocks are non-roller. Shop manual says so and Mine was. I had a 450 Holley vac secondary on my stock motor and now with all the goodies I put on a 600 Holley vac secondary. I will know more after this week but in the first run it pulled the 20P prop at 5k easily at 5500ft altitude. I have a 21P on for this week at Bear lake in Utah at 6,000ft elev. I am hoping for high 60s at 5,000ft. I would like to replace the manifolds for hi tek headers next, maybe this winter.

mattyboy
07-18-2016, 10:10 AM
all the info I have seen is that the Ford 5.0 L HO went to a roller cam in 85 my 87 is a roller that doesn't mean that OMC didn't do something different

the heads on a HO should be different from a LO motor and it will have the 351 firing order

they were rated at 200-225 hp over their lifespan basically the same as HM was getting out of the 302 in the 60s 70s they just marinized what the car world had at the time


I would be leary of trying to build an old motor with just an upper upgrade cam and intake without worrying about the lower end as well.

depending on how major the reason for pulling the motor is and weighing it against the remaining boating season.

drop in turn key replacement fords can be found for 4-6 k and a nice 383 sbc with exhausts can be found for around 6k which should bolt up to the cobra

ford been there done that never again


some choices for discussion sake from long blocks to turn key


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-REMAN-FORD-5-0-LITER-302-V8-MARINE-LONG-BLOCK-ENGINE-1981-1996-FLAT-TAPPET-/151964104289?hash=item2361c43661:g:ZTQAAOSwKtlWjV4 B&vxp=mtr



http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-REMAN-FORD-5-0-LITER-302-V8-MARINE-LONG-BLOCK-ENGINE-1991-2005-ROLLER-CAM-/172137414905?hash=item28143080f9:g:ZTQAAOSwKtlWjV4 B&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Volvo-Penta-5-0L-302-Long-Block-Base-Engine-EFI-Boat-Motor-OMC-Ford-Marine-/171648697735?hash=item27f70f4587:g:hmYAAOSwAKxWU~V e&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BluePrint-MBP3830CT-GM-383-Base-Marine-Engine-Cast-Iron-Vortec-Heads-/381564495973?hash=item58d7042865:g:F7wAAOSwAuNW3ym V&vxp=mtr

John C in PA
07-18-2016, 11:54 AM
all the info I have seen is that the Ford 5.0 L HO went to a roller cam in 85 my 87 is a roller that doesn't mean that OMC didn't do something different. The intake manifold may be off today. That will confirm the lifter type.

the heads on a HO should be different from a LO motor and it will have the 351 firing order. Got that info in my searches.

I would be leary of trying to build an old motor with just an upper upgrade cam and intake without worrying about the lower end as well. I'm not looking for major HP increases. just a little. :p As regards the lower end, the motor spins up to 4850 with my prop and sounds fine. I'm not willing to exceed that RPM without looking at the crank.

depending on how major the reason for pulling the motor is and weighing it against the remaining boating season. Hopefully I find out today. If damage is minimal, there is still time to order a manifold and 4 barrel carb.

drop in turn key replacement fords can be found for 4-6 k and a nice 383 sbc with exhausts can be found for around 6k which should bolt up to the cobra. For reasons important to me I am not going to replace the motor unless I trashed it. In that case, my season is over.

ford been there done that never again Yeah, well

Thank you personally Matty for a reasoned, non-know-it-all reply.

John C

John C in PA
07-18-2016, 12:27 PM
John, mine is a 16 also. The reason it looks bigger is that at some point a previous owner cut the panel in the front of the engine compartment so you can remove it to work on the motor. It is tight like yours when installed.

Pretty radical move. I kinda thought so when I saw the tie-in plates on either side of the opening. Do you think any stiffness was lost?

John C

turbo2256
07-18-2016, 02:01 PM
E6 heads were the non HO heads most of them could be found on grand marquis and crown vicks.

John C in PA
07-18-2016, 02:10 PM
The heads had been replaced by the PO. I'll confirm what's on there soon enough.

mattyboy
07-18-2016, 03:36 PM
Thank you personally Matty for a reasoned, non-know-it-all reply.

John C

no problem

turbo2256
07-18-2016, 04:21 PM
Hey Mat woundering what happened to my 66 16?

mattyboy
07-19-2016, 05:51 AM
Not sure where it is today last time I saw it was at the LGDCC dust off about 10 yrs ago

John C in PA
07-19-2016, 11:03 AM
Resolved: It's a flat tappet cam.

turbo2256
07-19-2016, 11:10 AM
The valley of the block should have the features required to use roller lifters. Can you get a picture of the valley?

turbo2256
07-19-2016, 11:18 AM
Not sure where it is today last time I saw it was at the LGDCC dust off about 10 yrs ago


Sometimes wounder just how safe it would have been if I had installed the twin turbo 302 that i would have built to install in it.

Turbochad
07-22-2016, 01:02 AM
Pretty radical move. I kinda thought so when I saw the tie-in plates on either side of the opening. Do you think any stiffness was lost?

John C

I don't think so. it is nice to be able to access the front without taking the motor out.

Turbochad
07-22-2016, 01:07 AM
The valley of the block should have the features required to use roller lifters. Can you get a picture of the valley?

The OMC blocks are non roller blocks. Here is mine. John's is the same year boat.

John C in PA
07-23-2016, 03:23 PM
Okay folks, I could use some more input. My motor is dead, so dead that the block doesn't have a core value. So, I decided to go with a remain marine motor. I like ATK (sold by Summit) and MichiganMotorz.

1) Both suppliers sell long blocks. Anybody know who sells reman short blocks (my heads are only a few years old)?

2) my motor is an HO which has a different (slightly hotter) cam than a non-HO. I don't know if my cam is worn since I have no specs for so I have asked both motor suppliers which cam is included.

3) i have no intention of going slower (std. cam) so I want to go with a Lunati cam (http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1641&gid=287), a Ford Racing dual plane aluminum manifold and a Holley 450 cfm 4-barrel carb (302 calibrated per Holley techie).

4) the only concern I have is warranty with a replacement cam. ATK is 18 months after shipping and Michigan is 12 months. Both won't cover damage from parts they didn't install. But I believe I have enough self-control to somewhat baby the motor with the Lunati cam until the warranty is up.

Your thoughts? Money is tight on social security so I'm not going for a stroker or other cam manufacturer except Comp, no roller lifters or rockers, just hoping to get back on the water this season with a little better performance.

Thx boys, John C

Turbochad
07-24-2016, 12:28 AM
Okay folks, I could use some more input. My motor is dead, so dead that the block doesn't have a core value. So, I decided to go with a remain marine motor. I like ATK (sold by Summit) and MichiganMotorz.

1) Both suppliers sell long blocks. Anybody know who sells reman short blocks (my heads are only a few years old)?

2) my motor is an HO which has a different (slightly hotter) cam than a non-HO. I don't know if my cam is worn since I have no specs for so I have asked both motor suppliers which cam is included.

3) i have no intention of going slower (std. cam) so I want to go with a Lunati cam (http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1641&gid=287), a Ford Racing dual plane aluminum manifold and a Holley 450 cfm 4-barrel carb (302 calibrated per Holley techie).

4) the only concern I have is warranty with a replacement cam. ATK is 18 months after shipping and Michigan is 12 months. Both won't cover damage from parts they didn't install. But I believe I have enough self-control to somewhat baby the motor with the Lunati cam until the warranty is up.

Your thoughts? Money is tight on social security so I'm not going for a stroker or other cam manufacturer except Comp, no roller lifters or rockers, just hoping to get back on the water this season with a little better performance.

Thx boys, John C

if you go crate I would just do the ATK stage 1 and call it good. The cam spec is better than stock and close to the Lunati. You get the warranty and get back on the water this year. And it's a roller cam motor!

mattyboy
07-24-2016, 09:25 AM
I would go crate long block and try and sell the old heads intake and carb buy a new intake and carb and re use all your tinware the stage 1 looks like a good choice

John C in PA
07-24-2016, 10:21 AM
I considered the Stage 1 motor but it's not specified marine. I don't know, besides the brass freeze out plugs, if the other "marine" parts are real or sales baloney. See:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hme-dma4/overview/. My mechanic also said a marine block should have 4 bolt mains.

I've got some questions into Summit about the specs, including if the motor above has a roller cam.

I'm ready to write off this season to do this right. Money remains a priority so bear with me.

Thx, John C

mattyboy
07-24-2016, 11:39 AM
they should have a marine motor as well close to the same specs

Turbochad
07-25-2016, 04:48 PM
I considered the Stage 1 motor but it's not specified marine. I don't know, besides the brass freeze out plugs, if the other "marine" parts are real or sales baloney. See:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hme-dma4/overview/. My mechanic also said a marine block should have 4 bolt mains.

I've got some questions into Summit about the specs, including if the motor above has a roller cam.

I'm ready to write off this season to do this right. Money remains a priority so bear with me.

Thx, John C

The main practical difference is the head gasket set (marine specific) and the brass plugs. You also need to check the cam spec to make sure you don't have too much overlap, causing reversion, but the Phase 1 cam should be fine. If you are going to get a stock spec marine long block and change out the cam you may consider building the motor yourself. It is a fairly simple build with the cam setup being the most complicated part (not that complicated). You can get a core block cheap and go from there. The crank, rods and pistons are all stock ford and nothing special. If you shop around for a late model 5.0 ford explorer motor you can rebuild that into a nice marine 302. They have the GT40P heads which flow better than the ones you have now and they are a roller motor which will breathe better than a tappet motor with comparable cams.

I have a brand new 400cfm Holley 4brl ford calibrated carb if you need one. I had it on my boat for one trip before rebuilding the motor and putting on a 600. The 400 is the right one for a motor with stock heads.

Chad

John C in PA
07-26-2016, 12:50 PM
The main practical difference is the head gasket set (marine specific) and the brass plugs. You also need to check the cam spec to make sure you don't have too much overlap, causing reversion, but the Phase 1 cam should be fine. If you are going to get a stock spec marine long block and change out the cam you may consider building the motor yourself. It is a fairly simple build with the cam setup being the most complicated part (not that complicated). You can get a core block cheap and go from there. The crank, rods and pistons are all stock ford and nothing special. If you shop around for a late model 5.0 ford explorer motor you can rebuild that into a nice marine 302. They have the GT40P heads which flow better than the ones you have now and they are a roller motor which will breathe better than a tappet motor with comparable cams.

I have a brand new 400cfm Holley 4brl ford calibrated carb if you need one. I had it on my boat for one trip before rebuilding the motor and putting on a 600. The 400 is the right one for a motor with stock heads.

Chad

Chad, do you know if stock 302 Ford heads can handle a 0.483" lift? Where did you connect the vacuum secondaries for adequate vacuum?

John C

turbo2256
07-26-2016, 03:54 PM
THE ONLY LIMITATION might be the spring pressure. What were the heads part number

John C in PA
07-26-2016, 04:27 PM
THE ONLY LIMITATION might be the spring pressure. What were the heads part number

I won't be buying the long block until next February or so. ATK isn't non-dealer friendly for questions and what I dragged out of them wasn't much. The ATK motor has new valve springs so Lunati recommended I check the heads on the trashed motor for binding at the cam specified lift and then compare head marks.

John C

Turbochad
07-26-2016, 04:55 PM
I won't be buying the long block until next February or so. ATK isn't non-dealer friendly for questions and what I dragged out of them wasn't much. The ATK motor has new valve springs so Lunati recommended I check the heads on the trashed motor for binding at the cam specified lift and then compare head marks.

John C

I threw my stock heads away, so I can't say for certain but I would assume they can handle the lift. The Lunati cam kit comes with springs and lifters so if you go that route you should change them out. The vacuum secondaries don't require a separate connection, they sense vacuum from the manifold through the baseplate on the carb. You won't get nearly as much benefit from the cam without improved heads. The GT40(P) are much improved over the standard casting and will get the most from the Lunati cam. Just something to consider.

mattyboy
07-26-2016, 07:58 PM
the gt 40 P head's spark plugs have a different angle they are more straight in than the non P heads and the standard heads which have the plugs at a greater angle so they can have clearance issue with the exhaust runners and casting case on some marine exhaust manifolds

John C in PA
07-27-2016, 02:52 PM
For anyone following, I expect to go this direction:

1) ATK marine long block for my model year. They have no idea if it's a std or HO (unlikely) cam. Two bolt mains (too bad).

2) a 450 cfm Holley Marine 4160 4 barrel with vacuum secondaries jetted for a Ford 302 stock up to a mild cam.

3) Lunati VooDoo flat tappet cam. .466/.483. Ski boat and mild towing :yes:. Idle to 5 grand :yes::yes:. Per Lunati, since the motor has never run I can use the new motor lifters and pushrods without buying theirs.

4) Summit Racing Stage 1 dual plane intake manifold. Holley likes phenolic plastic open spacers.

Comments or suggestions? Remember, nuttin' involving major bucks.

John C

Pat McPherson
07-27-2016, 03:29 PM
Yes, Following your plan for educational purposes.
If you swap the cam do you still get a warranty?
Will ATK do the cam swap or are you doing that?
What heads come on the ATK long block? maybe I missed that in a previous post...

John C in PA
07-27-2016, 06:08 PM
Yes, Following your plan for educational purposes.
If you swap the cam do you still get a warranty?
Will ATK do the cam swap or are you doing that?
What heads come on the ATK long block? maybe I missed that in a previous post...

Pat,

> as best I can decipher the warranty yes, except if the cam, or other non-ATK parts, caused the failure. Reasonable to me. I'm not of course, gonna tell them.

> ATK didn't know what cam THEY install, although I suspect it's a stock 302. Techie did say it's a flat tappet. ATK has one model 302 Ford marine motor and that's all they will ship. I tried to get a credit if they ship headless (mine were replaced not too many hours ago) but nope. No charges. And it's been waaaaaay too long since I replaced a cam or rebuilt a motor so my shop is doing it. This could change, however.

>re: the heads are stock rebuilt. Probably, if I recall F7E like mine.

John C

turbo2256
07-27-2016, 10:17 PM
tHAT SHOULD BE e7 HEADS about the worst flowing SBF head. They might be good for about 300 HP but to do it might cost a bit of low end. Ported a set of E7s could produce around 400 HP and have a very wide power band. Aftermarket aluminum heads work best on a 351ish with the smaller 165 170 cc ports. They can produce more power on a 302 but require running at a higher RPM with much loss in low end and mid range compaired to factory ported iron. iTS ALL ABOUT BALLANCING AIR FLOW TO THE DESIRED rpm RANGE which in a boat has much to do with the RPM range the outdrive can handle. To large of a head on an engine screws with air intake velocities and effective filling of the cylinder in other words wont flow the advertized air flow.
Bolt down heads should handle the spring pressue heads with pressed in studs might not.

John C in PA
07-27-2016, 11:33 PM
tHAT SHOULD BE e7 HEADS about the worst flowing SBF head. They might be good for about 300 HP but to do it might cost a bit of low end. Ported a set of E7s could produce around 400 HP and have a very wide power band. Aftermarket aluminum heads work best on a 351ish with the smaller 165 170 cc ports. They can produce more power on a 302 but require running at a higher RPM with much loss in low end and mid range compaired to factory ported iron. iTS ALL ABOUT BALLANCING AIR FLOW TO THE DESIRED rpm RANGE which in a boat has much to do with the RPM range the outdrive can handle. To large of a head on an engine screws with air intake velocities and effective filling of the cylinder in other words wont flow the advertized air flow.
Bolt down heads should handle the spring pressue heads with pressed in studs might not.

Considering this is a budget build using a mild upgrade cam, 5 grand redline, and 9:1 CR, it's not worth the time, effort and money to pull and port the reman heads, deck them to increase CR, and port match/smooth. I may gasket match the intake manifold and smooth the runners over the Winter. For this build I don't think I'm going to run out of air.

John C

John C in PA
07-28-2016, 03:40 PM
tHAT SHOULD BE e7 HEADS about the worst flowing SBF head.

I won't have the carcass home for another few weeks to verify but I wrote down one time the heads are E7TE.

John C