View Full Version : Possible Cone Clutch Failure???

06-26-2016, 12:04 PM
I am having an issue with my Volvo AQ 280. Hopefully someone can chime in before I completely tear apart my drive.

Lately I have been going out and it will go in and out of gear just fine.
After a little driving, it will not go into forward. It goes into reverse just fine. No prob.
Sometimes I will shift it into forward 1 click and it will eventually go, but not all the time.
Now, I am not getting it to go at all in forward. Had to slowly make my way home yesterday in reverse.(not too far)

There is oil on the dip stick, no milky oil.
The linkage is working so it is not that.

I did lift the drive up and put it in gear to see if I could see something and the prop does spin, but slowly. Not enough to drive the boat and maneuver.

Any tips before I tear into this?
Does it sound like cone clutch/sliding sleeve?

Thanks all

Just Say N20
06-26-2016, 12:19 PM
Remove the cover plate on the upper half of the drive, and make sure the shift cable connection is secure.

You can also manually move the actual shift mechanism lever and see if the drive goes into/out of gear.

06-26-2016, 12:23 PM
Yep, I did that.
Very secure and it goes all the way and no real engagement

Morgan's Cloud
06-26-2016, 12:53 PM
Time to buy a Merc !

Please send me your old stuff :biggrin.:

06-26-2016, 01:02 PM
Yep, I did that.
Very secure and it goes all the way and no real engagement

remove the cable and linkage and manually move the shift flange( looks like a bow tie) the flange should retract in neutral and should pop out in either R or F with the cable off you will get the most deflection either way. take the prop off and shift manually then try and turn the prop shaft either way N will spin boths way F and R will turn one but not the other

and remember what side the cable and linkage was on or backwards you will be .

had this issue it was a bad shift cable

06-26-2016, 01:12 PM
OK I can try again.
I did test it with the cable still on. I suppose it could still go more. I thought it was all the way, but who knows.
Tough to do on the buoy.
Hopefully that will do it.

If not, does it sound like a cone clutch issue?

06-26-2016, 02:34 PM
Ok so I removed cable and put in and out of gear forward and reverse.
Does the same thing. Engages in reverse real good and hard. Engages in forward but only very minor. Even giving it throttle does not push the boat.
The prop does spin, but not like normal.

06-26-2016, 02:41 PM
Also, I did put in gear and prop only spun 1 way.
Both forward and reverse.
Spun free in neutral

06-26-2016, 08:29 PM
are you turning an ultra prop?

06-26-2016, 08:32 PM
Solas titan 23

06-26-2016, 09:40 PM
I would try a prop if you have one never seen a solas spin a hub but ya never know then drop the oil in the drive and see what it looks like

06-27-2016, 12:17 AM
The Solas is relatively new to this boat. It ran great on there for a month.
I still get the typical clunk when I put into gear in reverse. I do not get the clunk in forward even though the prop does turn when I put into gear.

06-27-2016, 09:23 AM
still sounds like the the shift flange is not moving far enough to engage the gears in fwd I adjusted mine on the trailer with the wife at the controls you don't need the prop or the motor running remove the shift cover and cable then test.

page 64 on is about the shifter


06-27-2016, 10:34 AM
Ok, well I am going to pull the boat today. Quite a long tow.

Does it make sense tho that it worked perfectly fine for a month with no sign of anything like this happening?
The shift mechanism is where I am going to start, but what exactly am I looking for when I pull it? Will it be obvious?

Thanks Matty

06-27-2016, 01:36 PM
yes it could be fine one day and out of whack the next before you tear the drive open you need to inspect the cable and connections. if the cable ends are not secured the cable will not move correctly. they are locked into the shifter and the outside of the volvo drive the clamp that holds the cable onto the drive could have come loose . you need to look at it while you move the shifter flange you will hear it and feel it engage in gear by hand. the holes in the ears of the flange are at 5 and 11 oclock if you turn it to the right all the way and are at 2 and 7 oclock if you turn it to the left all the way. and again you will see it pop out except in neutral

if it were a upper drive problem I would imagine you would have other signs like noises and metal on metal

06-27-2016, 05:49 PM
Beautiful day on the lake. Wish I wasn't having to tow er out.

So here is a pic of the drive oil. I spoke to the mechanic that serviced the drive last year and he uses GL5.
I was then told today by my friend that 30 wt not synthetic oil is the best way to go.
Looks milky right??


06-27-2016, 06:08 PM
bad seal, hopefully it is only the shift seal not the prop shaft seals I use merc blue synth 90w the only Volvo that grenaded on me was running 30 wt

06-27-2016, 06:14 PM
Going to post pics soon of the cone. Cant see the grooves that well.

How hard is it to re-seal the entire drive. I dont know how to find out where the leak would be.

06-27-2016, 06:18 PM

06-27-2016, 06:27 PM
Going to post pics soon of the cone. Cant see the grooves that well.

How hard is it to re-seal the entire drive. I dont know how to find out where the leak would be.

I would put it back together and pressure test it then with soapy water find where it is leaking

find out what service was done and did they use like amsoil syn which has no color so it will look muddy after use.. I used it once but found it hard to see on the dipstick so I only use the blue stuff now

if it is water it should separate after some time

the shift seal is not to hard the rest not so much

06-27-2016, 06:32 PM
doesn't look bad

06-27-2016, 06:56 PM
Wow that is crazy. Is that from the 30 wt?

How do I pressure test it?

Matty, thanks again, you have been very helpful

06-27-2016, 07:05 PM
borrow a pressure tester from a mech empty drive pump up to like 12 -15 lbs and if seals are good it will stay make sure the dipstick is tight have a spray bottle of soapy water spray around the shifter flange the prop shaft and where the upper and lower meet any leak pressure will drop and soapy water will bubble at the leak

06-27-2016, 09:10 PM
Pardon me here, but not sure what you mean by an empty drive pump.
Any clarification would be very helpful

06-28-2016, 01:01 PM
You need a pressure tester usually a hand held pump with a gauge and a hose with a screw that goes into the bottom of the drive where you drain the oil you are filling the drive with air under pressure to see if the drive holds pressure no leaks so to make room for the air the drive must be drained of all oil. You pump about 12-15 lbs psi into the drive and it should stay there don't pump any more than that or you will blow any seals that were good to begin with . The gauge should hold pressure if it doesn't pump it up to 12-15 psi and spray the soapy water , air with make the soap bubble , spray around the shifter flange ,upper lower joint , and prop shaft
Where there are bubbles you have a leak

Does that make it clearer

06-28-2016, 01:15 PM
Perfectly thank you.
The part that was not was just the pump.
Think I got it figured out.