PDA

View Full Version : Dana or Hardin Marine controls?



txtaz
11-27-2015, 09:15 AM
My Commander 3000 panel mount remote control has seen better days. Time to replace it and I have been researching billet side mount controls as a replacement. I think I have read and looked at everything available on the internet and shockingly, still have questions. I even considered going to DTS and getting parts will be hard and expensive.

I am considering either the Dana Marine (http://teaguecustommarine.com/em0011/dana-billet-side-mounted-control-right-hand.html) or Hardin Marine (http://www.cpperformance.com/p-74408-hardin-marine-billet-stiletto-side-mount-shift-throttle-control.aspx) billet controls. I like the swept look of the Hardin control. My only concern is the height of the throttle lever on both. I like being able to rest my arm on the gunnel and controlling the throttle as I can with the stock control. Does anyone know the height of these controls compared to stock?

I also noticed there seems to be two different types of cables; Mercruiser Gen II cables or 3300c cables which uses an adapter. The 3300c cables sound like new technology and could be better. I know I need to replace the cables and obviously want the best.

Thanks for the help,
Taz

gcarter
11-27-2015, 10:24 AM
Wes, you've probably already checked into this, but, for dependability, U-Flex is very hard to beat.
U-Flex is what Livorsi uses for it's "content enhanced" side mount control.
I have a Livorsi in my TR which I dis-assembled and repainted all the powdercoated parts
to match the hull. I highly encourage the Livorsi backing plate as it covers a world of sins!
I drilled the hole for the safety switch lanyard in the center of the lower left cover plate radius.
It's built like a battleship and comes w/cable adapters.

tmdog
11-27-2015, 04:49 PM
This summer replaced shifter with a U-flex, very smooth action and reasonably priced. That smoothness may be attributed to replacement of shift cable,
33c from helm to transom. I took gcarter's advice, glad I did.:)

Ghost
11-27-2015, 06:09 PM
<quick hijack>
Looks like a great setup, George. Only thing I'd change is that I'm a fan of the kill switches that have a toggle switch in a bracket, rather than the ones that take the special key. If you get thrown, the lanyard's captive loop in the bracket flips the toggle switch. But that way, if you are somehow without the custom lanyard key, you don't have to find a way to hold the button down to run the boat. Instead, you can just flip the toggle switch and go.

Had the key kind first. When I re-did the dash this year, I switched over.

Like this:
83326

</quick hijack>

txtaz
11-28-2015, 08:44 AM
Wes, you've probably already checked into this, but, for dependability, U-Flex is very hard to beat...


Hey George,
I did look at UFlex and I read your posts on the control. They only make the 310 model anymore and I don't care for the lock bar location. I have always had lock bars under the handle toward outboard. And at $350, I might as well spend the extra if they works better.
Did you use the Gen 2 or 33c cables? Also, the boat is put up for the winter and I haven't checked the ends. Do 33c cables need adapters at both ends?

tmdog, Taking George's advice is never a bad thing. He's done a lot and knows his stuff.
Taz

gcarter
11-28-2015, 12:06 PM
Did you use the Gen 2 or 33c cables? Also, the boat is put up for the winter and I haven't checked the ends. Do 33c cables need adapters at both ends?Taz

I bought Morse cables w/Merc ends on them. I probably should have used 3300 ends.
Either way, w/the U-flex controller one of the cables requires an adapter, which comes w/ the controller.
Wes, I checked Great Lakes Skipper, and no luck. But I bet if you dig around, you'll find the correct U-Flex.

BUIZILLA
11-28-2015, 12:14 PM
I have purchased 3 of the Uflex controls, and also their cables, I really liked their cables..

IMO, it's a great value point item

txtaz
11-30-2015, 09:13 AM
I have purchased 3 of the Uflex controls, and also their cables, I really liked their cables..

IMO, it's a great value point item

Thanks,

Have you tried the 310 model?
I'm curious how it feels to have the shift interlock on the inboard side.

gcarter
11-30-2015, 01:57 PM
<quick hijack>
Looks like a great setup, George. Only thing I'd change is that I'm a fan of the kill switches that have a toggle switch in a bracket, rather than the ones that take the special key. If you get thrown, the lanyard's captive loop in the bracket flips the toggle switch. But that way, if you are somehow without the custom lanyard key, you don't have to find a way to hold the button down to run the boat. Instead, you can just flip the toggle switch and go.

Had the key kind first. When I re-did the dash this year, I switched over.

Like this:
83326

</quick hijack>


Mike, I was unaware of these. Seems like a good idea and ordered one.
I think I'll likely have to relocate it though, as I don't think it would look
correct on top of the throttle cover plate. Not a big deal, I'll have to find
another "something" to locate there.

Ghost
11-30-2015, 05:25 PM
:)

You painted that plate to match your other deck HW and rub rail, right? (I assumed, as it looks like the same metallic silver color to my eye.). Worst case, I figure you could fill the hole and re-spray the plate.

Sorry if I made any new work for you. ;). I will say I'm WAY happier with my setup now. I had about 5 of those lanyard keys stashed on the boat in case it vanished.

(BTW, if anyone needs any spares, I have a whole fleet of them.)