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champ
07-25-2015, 07:45 AM
Finally located a outdrive with the gears I have been needing. Before starting a swap I have just a few questions. On a Volvo 270 there is a exhaust port that seems it would interfere with my prop. As of now I am using a solas 15x23. I removed the skeg, if that is what it is called to get the prop on my 280.

Before starting, I am looking for the best available options and appreciate any input.

Here are my questions:
Is there some sort of block off plate that would go where exhaust port is located on lower outdrive?
Is there an option for blocking off hole where exhaust goes into outdrive?
On transom there is another plate blocking off where exhaust would normally go through connecting exhaust bellows. Now there seems to be a zinc of some sort and probably needs replacing. Is there a part for this or a fabricated item?


82688

mattyboy
07-25-2015, 09:03 AM
have you fit the drive on first? some 270 have course splines the 280 has fine splines.


the exhaust port needs to go on the 270 lower and you need to find or make a round lock off plate you have to make sure it has holes to let any water that might get in thru the top out (leave the top open) . I found one for going thru the anode bin at west marine. and the transom plate needs a block off which is usually pretty standard on any volvo without a y tube which your setup probably has . it was a volvo part but may be hard to find I had to make one for my 280.

before you go crazy make sure the drive fits on the transom housing and confirm the ratio not sure what ratio you are leaving 1.8 2.0 but going to a 1.6 you may find the 23 is too much for every drop in gears you lose 200 rpms so going to a 1.6 from a 2.0 you will be down 500 rpms or so

champ
03-28-2016, 09:50 AM
I know this is a thread from last year, but had one more question from the outdrive change. Can the yolk be changed from course to fine splines?

f_inscreenname
03-28-2016, 11:12 AM
Sure can. First you will have to get one (ebay or someone here or just take it off the old drive) then it as simple as changing a U joint in a driveshaft. Just when putting it back together you use the other yoke then what was on it.

champ
04-02-2016, 10:39 AM
Ready to remove old out drive, seems the pivot pins are stuck. Also appears none of the set screws to hold them were ever in place. Bellows were filled with water, but I thought I seen somewhere there should be a weep hole of some sort. Kinda glad I'm going on bellows just disintegrated with a slip of my screwdriver and after removing bellows everything looked really rusted.

Looking at the pins, it seems there are two different types. (see pic's) So I am asking is this normal and how does one go about removing them when they are stuck?

Where would I go to look for new u joints? And, before putting it all back together would there be any other seals to replace between the outdrive and motor just as a precaution.

In the beginning of this thread, the reason for the swap was because of gear ratio. The outdrive I am removing also has the 'B' stamped on the plate indicating it has v8 gears. Is there a way to tell the gear ratio before removing outdrive?

84170
84171

champ
04-04-2016, 08:43 AM
Thanks Mattyboy and f_inscreenname for the information. Turns out the outdrive ratio was 2:15 which was already on the boat, even though the serial plate was marked with a 'B'. The splines on the newer drive will match up, making it an easy swap.

Since I could not get any info on the stuck pins, I came up with a solution to remove them on my own. Maybe this will help others somewhere down the road. One pin had a threaded hole, so I made a puller out of a long bolt, washers and a sleeve bearing. The other pin only had a slot which was more of a challenge. I created a expander out of a Bolt and coupling nut and was able to push the pin out bracing the the driveshaft and using it as my stationary object. (see pics below). This still was not easy as I had to change to longer bolts as the pin kept moving out ward.

As mentioned before with changing gear ratio, I will drop about 500 rpm's needing another prop change. Fortunately, my boat came with a 22 ultra which I still have. My guess is someone changed the lower without changing the prop.

84175

f_inscreenname
04-05-2016, 01:13 PM
Ya the lower is where the gear ratio is set. Sorry I missed this thread. I pull the bolts that lock the pins, fill full of PB blaster for a couple days and then use a large drift pin to drive them out from the inside out. The bellows will crush down far enough to get a good enough angle at the pin. Have to be willing to replace the plastic bushings but if its stuck its a cheap after though. If its not stuck they tap out with ease not hurting anything.
Always wanted to do the dent puller thing but was to afraid to I would bang on the hull. May have to give it a try next time for fun. Good job!

http://www.airgas.com/medias/Product-A30645-270Wx270H?context=bWFzdGVyfHByb2R1Y3R8MTk3N3xpbWFn ZS9qcGVnfHByb2R1Y3QvaDhjL2gxMS8xMTM5ODExODI0NDM4Mi 5qcGd8ZWU0MTZmMGM2MDg4YTFlM2M1NDRkYTAyMWI5ZGY2MTEz NmViNzY3MDMzZjMzYjgwNTM1NzhmMDlkZWRjMmQxMA

champ
04-19-2016, 07:21 AM
I thought I was getting close to finishing the outdrive swap and when getting ready to install steering helmet and noticed outdrive was not moving freely from side to side. I sprayed it down pretty good with PB Blaster, greased the zerk fitting but it is still too tight.
Can someone please guide me through how to loosen this up? What would be needed to disassmble the steering stem to properly clean up and lubricate it? Any help as always is greatly appreciated.

f_inscreenname
04-19-2016, 10:23 AM
Leave the steering unhooked and out of the way. You grab one side and have a friend grab the other and yank the drive back and forth like a bucksaw until it loosens. If that don't work you may have to take it apart.

champ
04-19-2016, 11:20 AM
Leave the steering unhooked and out of the way. You grab one side and have a friend grab the other and yank the drive back and forth like a bucksaw until it loosens. If that don't work you may have to take it apart.

That is where I am at, moving it back and forth. It still is too tight so, what is the process of taking it apart?

champ
04-30-2016, 09:40 AM
Still stuck. It just won't seem to loosen. Trying to get help on how to fix or rebuild steering stem on my new to me aq with the v-8 gears I've been needing for so long.
Any help would be truly appreciated.

f_inscreenname
04-30-2016, 11:11 AM
To take apart the steering fork is no easy task. The drive basically has to come completely apart to get the fork off. There really isn't any moving parts in there except the two pivot points. Before I would go that way I would keep doing what you are doing. Keep pumping grease in the zerc until you see it squirt out and maybe go as far as taking the water out put fitting at the top off and squirt some PB blaster inside (you will see where it goes when you have the outlet off).

champ
05-17-2016, 03:06 PM
To take apart the steering fork is no easy task. The drive basically has to come completely apart to get the fork off. There really isn't any moving parts in there except the two pivot points. Before I would go that way I would keep doing what you are doing. Keep pumping grease in the zerc until you see it squirt out and maybe go as far as taking the water out put fitting at the top off and squirt some PB blaster inside (you will see where it goes when you have the outlet off).

Are you the famous f_inscreenname I've seen on youtube? If so, love the videos. Can I get a copy c.d. of the music playing, and how many cups of coffee did it take to make you go so fast? I did gain a few tips from these, especially the need for blocking the water inlet which I don't use on mine either.

But seriously, after doing what you have suggested my pivot fork is still too stiff although I did get it to free up some. I believe I need to take it apart. Is there any good way of doing so? Another video? A volvo tool part number? (just kidding) Volvo does have a steering stem repair kit so I would guess it makes sense that this problem happens from time to time.

Again, Thanks for the helpful advice.

f_inscreenname
05-18-2016, 12:38 AM
Ya it me. It was a long winter that still hasnít seemed to have ended yet. The music is from an old Blue Oyster Cult album called Cultosaurus Erectus from 1980. Wasnít a big album but for some reason we ended up with it and played the hell out of it back in the day. Iím sure you can find it on you tube or something. Apparently the Volvo videos are banned in Sweden or Holland or something because of the music but WTH, there loss. Lol. No coffee just coke.
As for the steering fork, you have to take the top and bottom off the center section. From there you take the water outlet off and then drive out the tube from the bottom. Is the grease zerc taking grease? You should see it squeeze out around the center.

champ
05-18-2016, 07:20 AM
Yes, I greased the zerk and can see it coming out. It is moving better, but not as freely as the one the drive was on there. It seems, but hard to tell that it is stuck at the top of the fork as I hear a little squeak when moving it back and forth.

I also searched this site and found a post describing tools used for tube removal. After more research discovered part numbers were 884311 and 9991801. Still have not figured out how to get tools inside tube as the diameters seem to be of the same size.

The weather here is not so favorable also, so I may be putting my old drive back on and using it until I get this one right.

f_inscreenname
05-18-2016, 09:39 AM
The tool that drives out the tube is like a seal or bearing driver. Just slightly bigger then the tube. Sorry but without actually doing it I couldn't tell you if there is a shortcut or homemade tool for it.

champ
05-19-2016, 07:24 AM
The tool that drives out the tube is like a seal or bearing driver. Just slightly bigger then the tube. Sorry but without actually doing it I couldn't tell you if there is a shortcut or homemade tool for it.

I think I got this. I practiced using a intermediate section from one of my old outdrives. I applied some good heat and was able to softly drive out the tubes using a longer ratchet extension. The extension got beat up, but the metal seemed softer than the tube itself. The issue is getting something inside the tubes which seem to be the same diameter. I did drive out the upper tube first, as it was stuck on this midsection too. Once this was out, the bottom was quite easy.

Now for the outdrive itself that I will be using. My hope is after disassembling the lower and upper, it will all go back together the way it is supposed to. That is where I think your videos again will be quite helpful.

Another question about filling the water pickup with foam. Do you think I could just fill it by just pouring foam down the tube after after it is reassembled?

72Hornet
06-04-2016, 01:45 PM
I made that plate for my 270 when I went to the solas propeller to gain the clearance. I did not drill any relief holes for water to escape. What issue could that cause? Overheating perhaps?

have you fit the drive on first? some 270 have course splines the 280 has fine splines.


the exhaust port needs to go on the 270 lower and you need to find or make a round lock off plate you have to make sure it has holes to let any water that might get in thru the top out (leave the top open) . I found one for going thru the anode bin at west marine. and the transom plate needs a block off which is usually pretty standard on any volvo without a y tube which your setup probably has . it was a volvo part but may be hard to find I had to make one for my 280.

before you go crazy make sure the drive fits on the transom housing and confirm the ratio not sure what ratio you are leaving 1.8 2.0 but going to a 1.6 you may find the 23 is too much for every drop in gears you lose 200 rpms so going to a 1.6 from a 2.0 you will be down 500 rpms or so