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boatnut
06-23-2015, 07:17 PM
I have gone over several threads and reviewed a lot of excellent information on props for a Volvo drive. Our 18 has the 302 H&M pkg with a Volvo 250 -- supposedly it had 235 hp (not sure how accurate that is). We had a OJ (Johnson) 14x19 prop and it was running about 4900/5000 at 49/50 mph when last used (many moons ago). We just rebuilt the motor and it is showing 285hp on the dyno -- maybe a little less when we put it in the boat and use the H&M log manifolds. Based on reviewing these threads I think we should start with the Solas Titan 15 5/8 x 19 -- it seems to be about right for the hp we have. What I could not determine from these threads is what we have to do to the 250 drive to use this prop. Do we have to drill the shaft? And, what does that mean? Any clarification would be appreciated. thks, Ed

f_inscreenname
06-23-2015, 09:32 PM
Solos worked fine with just the cone and some loc-tite on my set up. I let it set over night and use a left hand prop so the prop is always pushing on anyway.
Drilling and tapping the shaft is not for armatures.

boatnut
06-23-2015, 09:41 PM
Solos worked fine with just the cone and some loc-tite on my set up. I let it set over night and use a left hand prop so the prop is always pushing on anyway.
Drilling and tapping the shaft is not for armatures.

I like the way you think f_in, drilling and tapping the shaft is somewhat scary. We would also use a LH prop. However it seems to me a RH prop would also be pushing it on --- unless you were in reverse.

f_inscreenname
06-24-2015, 12:57 AM
I like the way you think f_in, drilling and tapping the shaft is somewhat scary. We would also use a LH prop. However it seems to me a RH prop would also be pushing it on --- unless you were in reverse.

What I meant to say was :bonk:, with the drive in forward the prop nut would only tighten if it moved on the prop shaft when spinning for a left prop. :yes:

mattyboy
06-24-2015, 07:23 AM
step 1

fit the prop making sure it spins freely and doesn't hit the exhaust/torque tab or ride too far up and bottom out on the shaft splines. to accomplish this you need the proper size thrust washer. Keep in mind the farther in the better will give you the most meat on your fastening nut/cone. Most AQ owners have an assortment of different size thrust washers, you may need to buy one and have it cut to the right size . the prop should have no play fwd or back after it has it's nut/ cone tightened.

A. if the torque tab is in the way you will need to visit west marine's anode section and get a blank spacer or an OB type spacer that puts the tab back further and cover the hole .

B you will want a backing nut or a double nut setup I had a machine shop make a threaded washer that fit inside and down the shaft into the hub then they cut down a locking nut that fits over it, the other option would be to drill and tap the shaft which is not a huge job using the cone as a guide it has been done numerous times here and on other boating forums. the cone may work by itself depending on how many turns you get into it before it hits the prop hub thats why step one is so important. fwd is never an issue as F'in has said but reverse can be an issue I have seen a single nut back off after a few shots in reverse.<br>

I have seen the new and old style solas run on every AQ drive from 200 to 290 both long and short

boatnut
06-24-2015, 10:27 AM
step 1

fit the prop making sure it spins freely and doesn't hit the exhaust/torque tab or ride too far up and bottom out on the shaft splines. to accomplish this you need the proper size thrust washer. Keep in mind the farther in the better will give you the most meat on your fastening nut/cone. Most AQ owners have an assortment of different size thrust washers, you may need to buy one and have it cut to the right size . the prop should have no play fwd or back after it has it's nut/ cone tightened.

A. if the torque tab is in the way you will need to visit west marine's anode section and get a blank spacer or an OB type spacer that puts the tab back further and cover the hole .

B you will want a backing nut or a double nut setup I had a machine shop make a threaded washer that fit inside and down the shaft into the hub then they cut down a locking nut that fits over it, the other option would be to drill and tap the shaft which is not a huge job using the cone as a guide it has been done numerous times here and on other boating forums. the cone may work by itself depending on how many turns you get into it before it hits the prop hub thats why step one is so important. fwd is never an issue as F'in has said but reverse can be an issue I have seen a single nut back off after a few shots in reverse.<br>

I have seen the new and old style solas run on every AQ drive from 200 to 290 both long and short



Thank You, good info. I guess the first step is to buy a Solas Titan. Was that prop influenced by the work the Griz did? I think I understand what you said about properly positioning the prop using thrust washers--even if they have to be custom made. Once positioned, and ensuring clearance exists to the torque tab, if there are enough threads I think you are saying a self locking nut or a double nut can be used to hold on the prop (with washers to properly meet the rear of the prop), correct? I assume if a nut solution is usable the prop cone is not really needed. The water flow difference would be negligible I think. Ed

mattyboy
06-24-2015, 10:54 AM
there would be no solas offering for the high performance needs of an AQ owner without BIgGrizzly (Randy). the props He worked on are now sold by solas, before that the ultra was the only choice.

what you will find is that most of the thread is inside the hub of the prop I have a threaded washer that part fits inside the hub and part outside. it has two slots in it and I have a tool like a golf shoe spike wrench that tightens it down then a backing lock nut.a plain washer will let the nut bite on only the thread exposed not the thread inside the hub.

the cone may go on far enough not sure

if you have any torque tab or exhaust port on the 250 the solas is going to hit it

I found the same setup hardware wise that made the ultra fir on the 250 worked for the solas as well.

i can post pics later

mattyboy
06-24-2015, 09:31 PM
pics now this is a long shaft 280 not a short shaft 250

1. standard length thrust washer with line cutter

2& 3 my custom threaded washer

4 whats left of the threads the 250 might be less

5&6 washer and tool

boatnut
06-25-2015, 01:01 PM
Thank you for the info and time Matty. If the 250 shaft is shorter it looks like a problem but I guess others have made it work. I assume you made the custom washer -- as opposed to it being a part that is available? I guess the only path is to order a prop and then see what is needed. Do you happen to know what thread is on the 250 shaft -- metric of course but how is the size defined? Thank you again, Ed

mattyboy
06-26-2015, 07:01 AM
this setup was done on my old 16 that had a custom spinelli prop on it by the previous owner. I think what he did was cut the bottom out of a prop cone. The setup worked for all the props I tried on the 16 and on Ken's Cig19 with a 270. We decided to copy the setup I have a friend who is the ops mgr of a big machine shop he hangs out at the shop of our mechanic. He took the washer and tool and copied the setup for a few 30 pks of Bud so i don't have any idea what the sizes are.

I would start by getting the prop, a few thrust washers, and a spare cone. off the top of my head cutting the base out of a cone and using a backing nut should work.

boatnut
06-26-2015, 05:15 PM
[QUOTE=mattyboy;I would start by getting the prop, a few thrust washers, and a spare cone. off the top of my head cutting the base out of a cone and using a backing nut should work.[/QUOTE]

If I remember correctly (it was 45+ years ago) my barrel back 1967 18 had only a ny-lock nut holding the props on. The boat was raced prior to me getting it and they had an assortment of props (including a two blade which I have hanging on a wall) and they and then I used a washer and the ny-lock nut on what I assume was a 250 drive (or maybe an earlier model), no cones or tab washers etc. Possibly if I could get the correct size and thread a similar solution with the proper spacers/washers and a ny-lock nut would work with the Solas Titan on our 250. I am now looking around to buy the prop and they seem to be available at pretty good prices. Does anyone know what the prop nut thread & size is on the 250?

mattyboy
06-27-2015, 08:54 AM
They are the same size on the 250 thru 280 but what size they are I don't know. I would take whatever you are using now to hold the prop to the hardware store and test it out.
A nylock nut might work by itself if it is wide enough cover the hub and it has enough thread to hit the nylon