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JayZ
06-23-2014, 07:57 PM
Pulled out the roto-zip, some safety glasses and a dust mask and went to town.

With the right tools, this is a pretty easy job and didn't take much time at all.

Everything has been dry fit, now I just need to coat the exposed core with some epoxy let it cure, bed in the cleats and the job will be done.

Next challenge will be getting the other deck hardware re-chromed and the dash re-done.

799797998079981

gcarter
06-23-2014, 08:14 PM
Well done Jay.
If you care to make something even more useful, remove the forward lifting ring and put another pop up cleat there. It makes a nice smooth deck if you also add a pop-up bow light.
Fun stuff!

JayZ
06-23-2014, 08:20 PM
Thanks George. I actually have the pop up bow light sitting on the bench. That looks like a little bit longer project. It didn't come with a template... I also want to try and avoid the claustrophobic trip up into bow in case I drop the electrical wires below the decks while doing the surgery so I haven't been super eager to start that one...

I haven't thought about eliminating the lifting eye on the deck...

gcarter
06-23-2014, 08:52 PM
You'll find that if you unscrew the light and pull it up, the wires are right there.
You can make a template from the new light.
That makes it do-able and pretty easy w/only the one dirty journey to tighten the nuts on the bottom.. :bonk:

johnnywhale
06-25-2014, 07:59 AM
That makes it do-able and pretty easy w/only the one dirty journey to tighten the nuts on the bottom.. :bonk:
This is why 13 year old sons were placed on this earth.

mattyboy
06-25-2014, 08:38 AM
very nice, I have been trying to get neat cleats or flush cleats installed on the hornet but the foam coring on the deck is over 2 inches thick making things a bit complicated just can't bring myself to cut her

JayZ
06-25-2014, 10:51 AM
This is why 13 year old sons were placed on this earth.

Now that you mention it, I just happen to have one of those.

Conquistador_del_mar
06-25-2014, 12:57 PM
very nice, I have been trying to get neat cleats or flush cleats installed on the hornet but the foam coring on the deck is over 2 inches thick making things a bit complicated just can't bring myself to cut her

Matty,
I installed 6 of these on my 28' Warlock to take the place of the regular ugly toe breaker cleats and love the look and function. They covered the holes of the original cleats. I used #14 or #16 self tapping ss screws since I never plan on using them in rough conditions to hold the boat where someone might want to use machine screws with nuts. No big holes to drill.

http://www.marinepartdepot.com/ststfocl.html

mattyboy
06-25-2014, 02:15 PM
Bill

i did look at those and the accon folding cleat, sea dog also makes a version the accon and seadog have a higher profile when folded down then these . do they lock down and also up a friend has folding cleats not sure what make but they flop around either down or up the lock to keep them down was cheap it busted and there were nylon nubbies to hold the cleat up they wore down so they went from folding cleats to flopping cleats.

the accon comes with studs or can be used with screws the seadog only has studs


accon cleat (http://www.goodboatgear.com/detail/18830/Stud%20Mount%20Folding%20Cleats?gclid=CMyfn5nRlb8C FbRj7AodfiMA5A)


seadog cleat (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=116482&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=product_ad&gclid=CK2AgMDRlb8CFbRj7AodfiMA5A)

Conquistador_del_mar
06-25-2014, 02:32 PM
Bill

i did look at those and the accon folding cleat, sea dog also makes a version the accon and seadog have a higher profile when folded down then these . do they lock down and also up a friend has folding cleats not sure what make but they flop around either down or up the lock to keep them down was cheap it busted and there were nylon nubbies to hold the cleat up they wore down so they went from folding cleats to flopping cleats.

the accon comes with studs or can be used with screws the seadog only has studs


accon cleat (http://www.goodboatgear.com/detail/18830/Stud%20Mount%20Folding%20Cleats?gclid=CMyfn5nRlb8C FbRj7AodfiMA5A)


seadog cleat (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=116482&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=product_ad&gclid=CK2AgMDRlb8CFbRj7AodfiMA5A)

Matty,
I can tell you the ones I mentioned do not flop around - in fact, they take a little effort to raise them. If I remember correctly, there is a stainless plate that flexes on the bottom of them to make them secure in both the lowered and raised positions.

mattyboy
06-25-2014, 02:58 PM
thanks that's what I am looking for

Jraysray
06-26-2014, 04:57 PM
Two next to the windshield two in the back replacing the aft ones and one up front replacing that one. The two (new ones) forward next to windshields were very useful for bumper service. No more tying to the steering wheel and grab bar.

Ghost
06-26-2014, 05:33 PM
Time for my shameless plug reminder. I have 4 six-inch Attwood Neat Cleats new in the box. $40 apiece to board members. $140 for all four.

http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/neat-cleat

zipper
06-26-2014, 09:40 PM
I've sent you a PM
thanks
Brian

Ghost
06-26-2014, 09:55 PM
I've sent you a PM
thanks
Brian

Great, thanks, just shot you a note. -Mike

mattyboy
06-27-2014, 08:03 AM
wonder if we could talk cleat placement for a bit
are there any rules of thumb?

JayZ
06-27-2014, 11:48 AM
I centered the stern cleats between the two cowl vents on eithe side (both axis). I took a wag at the side cleats near the windshield. I placed them a bit inboard of center of the available space to help the fenders ride better.

gcarter
06-27-2014, 04:07 PM
I like them w/in easy reach of the cockpit, fore and aft.

mattyboy
06-27-2014, 04:25 PM
The hornet with it's wide beam and extreme bow flare is a bit of a pita rafting up and tying up. I was wondering if there were rules of thumb at the widest point or as far back as possible. Is there any disadvantage to putting the rear ones between the vents? I guess that would be a good location for a fender or a rear dock lines.

are 6 inch cleats big enough to hold a 1/4 inch fender line and a 1/2 inch dockline

Ghost
06-27-2014, 04:49 PM
FWIW, on the "bring the mountain to Muhammed" front, I'd go down from 1/2" dock line unless there is an unusual need otherwise. I think lots of us have a natural tendency to shoot for strong, beefy gear but this usually backfires when it comes to lines. Dock lines should stretch as much as possible, to cushion the impact-loading on cleats. Half inch is way more than almost any of us need for boats our size in terms of strength--all it can do is make life hard on the deck hardware fasteners. 3/8" is plenty strong and will give a lot more. Also, three strand nylon is also far more forgiving, having lots more stretch than double-braid.

Admittedly, 3/8" feels funny at first because the use of oversized lines is so ubiquitous, but it's far better for the job most of the time. It also stows easily.

Along this same train of thought, I also highly recommend shock-cord for hanging fenders. (For regular hangers you use all the time I mean. Clearly some form of rope is needed for impromptu setups at foreign docks.) Watch a fender on nylon get strained, deforming it and pulling like mad on a cleat, then watch one on shock cord. You'll never go back.

JayZ
06-27-2014, 05:09 PM
You don't want cleats bigger than 6". That is for sure.

f_inscreenname
06-27-2014, 09:50 PM
I use 3/8's on everything but the race boat. 1/2" for it but that's just because I had them already.

mattyboy
06-29-2014, 08:30 AM
took some measurements yesterday and went with Jayz' location half way between the vents would be an easy reach from the cockpit plenty of meat in the deck for them and a backing plate only issue is the dual side open hatches on benchseat the hatch bottom lay in between the vents as well. can't have the hatch and the cleats up at the same time. I could shorten up the cable on the hatches but that might lead to them slamming shut .

Think I will go with 3.5 -4 inch cleats back at the end of the deck behind the rear vents. replace the 2 toe breakers then add two somewhere on the fwd deck

thanks for sharing Jayz

gcarter
06-29-2014, 10:40 AM
You don't want cleats bigger than 6". That is for sure.

The Testa Rossa came w/4 nice 6" Accon pop-ups...which was a good thing!
Then I removed the lifting rings and ended up adding another where the fwd lifting ring was.
So, I started a search on eBay for 6" Accons.......you would be amazed how many 8" and 10"
were available!!! And at good prices. New 10" pop-ups retail for about $350-$500 each, and folks
were trying to ge $75.00 for them. A bargain, but useless for classics.

RickR
06-29-2014, 05:58 PM
+1 Mattyboy
I used backing plates on the pop ups. 3/8 plywood coated with epoxy, beveled edges and rounded corners.