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Capevettes
04-07-2014, 08:37 AM
My 2000 Classic 18 is white with the factory red stripe on the bow and hatch area. The red stripe has faded quite a bit over the last 2 years from sitting out on the boat lift in the intense sun. My options:

1. Wet sand with 2000 grit and machine polish

2. Paint it

3. Find a correct appearing red decal and cut it to match. Where can I buy this?

I have a very good auto/boat detailer who thinks he can bring it back with a wet sand and polish. If that does not work, where can I find the decal OR what is the red paint code/color?

Any experiences you care to share would be appreciated.

Thanks, Paul

Greg Guimond
04-07-2014, 09:19 AM
The guys out West do some amazing color sanding to bring back old stuff. If your detailer is a true fiberglass marine detailer I would think the gel is deep enough to bring it back. That said, red is the toughest color to "keep" so there will be elbow grease in your future.

Capevettes
04-07-2014, 10:33 AM
Thanks for your reply Greg. I have seen some of my guy's work. He's good. He said he will start on a small area and will have a pretty good idea how successful he's going to be before he keeps going. I don't mind the upkeep and am considering covering the boat while it's sitting on the lift. It's just hard to get a cover over it while it's on the lift. He's coming over next Sunday to work his "magic." We'll see.

MOP
04-07-2014, 12:34 PM
Consider vinyl it lasts does not fade and looks great after a bunch of years, two boats back I had large vinyl lettering on the sides. It was 10 years old when I sold it the guy thought I was lying when I told him, there is another post up here about using vinyl.

Phil

Capevettes
04-07-2014, 01:11 PM
Consider vinyl it lasts does not fade and looks great after a bunch of years, two boats back I had large vinyl lettering on the sides. It was 10 years old when I sold it the guy thought I was lying when I told him, there is another post up here about using vinyl.

Phil

Hi Phil, Yes I had done a search before I posed the question and saw that thread. I don't know of anyone around here that does it. Is anyone selling a vinyl stripe just for these boats?

Greg Guimond
04-07-2014, 01:52 PM
Thanks for your reply Greg. I have seen some of my guy's work. He's good. He said he will start on a small area and will have a pretty good idea how successful he's going to be before he keeps going. I don't mind the upkeep and am considering covering the boat while it's sitting on the lift. It's just hard to get a cover over it while it's on the lift. He's coming over next Sunday to work his "magic." We'll see.

Yep, a small sample area will tell if the gel color is deep enough. You are lucky to have someone who is highly competent close to you. Most are car guys who throw in boats here and there. Should it work out, I'd be interested in what products he uses. One other thought (albeit a little wacky) is that you could have a simple cover sewn just for the stripe. Put a little weight in the V end that would grab the boats bow or lifting ring and then two snaps back at the windscreen. The weighted end would let you toss it out from the cockpit more easily. Then the red stripe would at least be covered and you would not have to deal with the re-fade over the season as much if at all.

MDonziM
04-07-2014, 03:15 PM
I would not bother thinking about paint vinyl etc. yet unless your red gel-cote has already been wet-sanded. If its original, you should be able to start at 1000 or 1200 and then 1500 and 2000 paper. ( Have your guy confirm based on amount of fade) Then use 3m professional combination compound/wax(the purple lable, I forget the name, they changed it). Then fleetwax finish. The key to red is to keep it waxed properly. Have it done right and you should have no issues, don't try it yourself if you have not wet-sanded before.

Fishermanjm
04-07-2014, 04:28 PM
i have the same prob with my boat, im going to try heavy compound and the high speed buffer, but im sure there will be swirl marks. Have you gone that route yet?

JayZ
04-07-2014, 04:33 PM
You should be able to bring it back with either compound or wet sand but it will fade in the sun quickly again so either cover it after you compounded or I would do a vinyl wrap

gcarter
04-07-2014, 07:38 PM
When I bought the Minx w/its blue sides and stripe, it was already showing through the substrate, so I painted it.
If I had the TR to do over, I'd have painted the deck for sure.
A high end automotive paint will NOT fade, even red. I think paint
has it all over gel for decks.
Longer lasting finish
Paint easily repairable
Paint provides denser dark colors than gel
Just plain easier to take care of.

Conquistador_del_mar
04-07-2014, 09:22 PM
When I bought the Minx w/its blue sides and stripe, it was already showing through the substrate, so I painted it.
If I had the TR to do over, I'd have painted the deck for sure.
A high end automotive paint will NOT fade, even red. I think paint
has it all over gel for decks.
Longer lasting finish
Paint easily repairable
Paint provides denser dark colors than gel
Just plain easier to take care of.

+1 George hit the nail on the head.

Carl C
04-07-2014, 09:54 PM
I think it will always be pinkish unless you paint them.

Capevettes
04-08-2014, 07:57 AM
Thanks for all the feedback. I think I am going to go ahead and see if we can get the color back with a wet sand this Sunday. Then I am going to ask my wife to sew up a cover, as was suggested, to protect the stripe. If it fades again I may just go ahead and paint it.

Thanks, Paul.

Greg Guimond
04-08-2014, 09:22 AM
I think you will be fine with that "stripe only" cover helping and proper wax. Now if the entire top sides was red that is a different deal. On one of my 16s we decided to use gel on the hull bottom and sides and use paint on the deck and interior for fade reasons. Post up a before and after pic if you wouldn't mind.

Capevettes
04-08-2014, 10:36 AM
Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes on Sunday.

Pismo
04-08-2014, 10:49 AM
Buff it out with some work and it will look great again. Then in a year it will be back to what it is now. Paint it.

Capevettes
04-08-2014, 11:16 AM
Buff it out with some work and it will look great again. Then in a year it will be back to what it is now. Paint it.

You may be right. I already did buff it a year ago. My skills are a bit suspect though. I'm pretty good with cars but not so much with gelcoats. I did get some shine back last year but it faded. I think the wet sand may work better and a follow up with a good sealant and a new cover so it doesn't bake.

Tidbart
04-08-2014, 11:48 AM
After you are done with your wetsanding, buffing, polishing, waxing, put some 303 Protectant on it. It will prolong your fading considerably. Sunscreen for everything.

http://www.303products.com/protectant.html/

B

Greg Guimond
04-08-2014, 12:04 PM
There is a big difference when a pro knows how to properly wet sand a color and my lame attempts at buffing. Very tough to find guys in the Northeast. Just be sure to get a rough price first and ask him if he feels he can isolate the stripe only when working so you avoid ending up dipping onto the rest of the white deck and running the cost up. Once you're done you can have your wife do the prototype for the stripe cover and then she can sell them to hundreds of Donzi owners who want to avoid faded stripes.

But I digress ............

Capevettes
04-08-2014, 02:11 PM
After you are done with your wetsanding, buffing, polishing, waxing, put some 303 Protectant on it. It will prolong your fading considerably. Sunscreen for everything.

http://www.303products.com/protectant.html/

B

I really like 303 Aerospace Protectant for the interior but never used it on the paint. I know alot of people do and like it. Great on tires for cars also.

Capevettes
04-08-2014, 02:14 PM
There is a big difference when a pro knows how to properly wet sand a color and my lame attempts at buffing. Very tough to find guys in the Northeast. Just be sure to get a rough price first and ask him if he feels he can isolate the stripe only when working so you avoid ending up dipping onto the rest of the white deck and running the cost up. Once you're done you can have your wife do the prototype for the stripe cover and then she can sell them to hundreds of Donzi owners who want to avoid faded stripes.

But I digress ............

My guy is a family friend and works reasonably. I did discuss isolating the area he's working on. He is going to tape it off around the borders. He's very particular and neat.

My wife is quite a seamstress, among other talents :). If it ever gets done she may have to patent it.

smokediver
04-08-2014, 10:09 PM
If the stripe is faded the rest of the deck is probably in need of attention as well

Capevettes
04-09-2014, 07:47 AM
If the stripe is faded the rest of the deck is probably in need of attention as well

The white actually shines pretty well. I may have him buff that out and use a sealant on it rather than wet sand it. That red just seems tough to prevent fading.

smokediver
04-09-2014, 01:16 PM
7928079281
The white actually shines pretty well. I may have him buff that out and use a sealant on it rather than wet sand it. That red just seems tough to prevent fading.

I thought the same thing. Hopefully the pics attach !

MOP
04-09-2014, 02:53 PM
Vinyl will serve you better for a very long time and will be far cheaper.

Fishermanjm
04-09-2014, 03:44 PM
Vinyl will serve you better for a very long time and will be far cheaper.
Phil, where do I get the vinyl??? i want to find out more about it

Ed Donnelly
04-09-2014, 04:02 PM
smokediver That is one big difference WOW ..Ed

JayZ
04-09-2014, 06:07 PM
Phil, where do I get the vinyl??? i want to find out more about it


Try one of the vinyl auto wrap companies

MOP
04-09-2014, 06:21 PM
Like mentioned above any vinyl shop, the main strip is super easy for them. They can also do the fine line strip on the edges, I had silver fine metal flake on mine 10 years still looked great. Many large factory boats have vinyl on them it is tough stuff.

Greg Guimond
04-09-2014, 07:20 PM
The race boat guys do a lot of vinyl because it lets them change sponsor info and choose wild colors as needed. Here's a Bernico 21 ............ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RsjzjKDZss&list=UUDca-PXCyTwS1bqAX9iSsEw

Capevettes
04-10-2014, 08:35 AM
7928079281

I thought the same thing. Hopefully the pics attach !

Wow. That is what I am hoping for. Did you wet sand all of it or just machine polish?

smokediver
04-10-2014, 07:04 PM
I wet sanded. I started with 600 and worked my way out to 1500. Its important to remember that as you go higher in grit numerically you need to do each step about twice as much as the one before to remove all the deeper scratches as the grit before. Super duty compound will remove 1500 grit scratches. Fineness-it will remove the swirl from the compound. I then use machine glaze and then a good wax. I am a 3m fan and i use their stuff. Honestly turtle wax is decent believe it or not as a long lasting wax. It is just a matter of using the right stuff and taking your time. Like Bob mentioned , 303 is a pretty good sunscreen , especially down here in south Florida.

gcarter
04-10-2014, 07:13 PM
If you sand each finer paper at 90* each time you change, it'll be easier to determine when you've removed the scratches from the previous paper.
A stripe is easy, you should be able to do it in an hour or two.

Capevettes
04-11-2014, 08:26 AM
Guys thanks for your detailed advice. I wrote it down and will pass it along to my guy on Sunday.

Capevettes
04-14-2014, 07:36 AM
Just to update everyone that was so helpful in this thread with advice on my faded red stripe. We wet sanded it yesterday. He started with 1,000 grit and ended with 1,500. He followed it up with 3M products and buffed it out, finishing with 3M Perfect It. It came out looking like new. It took about 2 hours to do both the front and rear stripes. I am very pleased. I put a coat of 303 Aerospace Protectant on it after we finished. We'll see how long is stays shiny. Now I need my wife to swing into action and make a cover for the stripes before the boat goes on the lift on May 4th.

Thanks for all the great advice and replies!!

Paul

Greg Guimond
04-14-2014, 08:25 AM
Just to update everyone that was so helpful in this thread with advice on my faded red stripe. We wet sanded it yesterday. He started with 1,000 grit and ended with 1,500. He followed it up with 3M products and buffed it out, finishing with 3M Perfect It. It came out looking like new. It took about 2 hours to do both the front and rear stripes. I am very pleased. I put a coat of 303 Aerospace Protectant on it after we finished. We'll see how long is stays shiny. Now I need my wife to swing into action and make a cover for the stripes before the boat goes on the lift on May 4th.

Thanks for all the great advice and replies!!

Paul

Nice! Your guy knows his stuff. Did he have to mess with the white deck at all? Now onto the patented "Stripe Saver" :yes:

Capevettes
04-14-2014, 09:07 AM
Nice! Your guy knows his stuff. Did he have to mess with the white deck at all? Now onto the patented "Stripe Saver" :yes:
He is very talented. I kept him focused on the red stripe. He was kind of doing me a big favor and I did not want to pile on. The white is in pretty good shape and I can work on that myself. Very pleased with the way it turned out. If I wasn't so picture/computer challenged I would post one.

Anyway, Thanks for the advice.

David Hartmann
04-14-2014, 11:46 PM
I wet sanded. I started with 600 and worked my way out to 1500. Its important to remember that as you go higher in grit numerically you need to do each step about twice as much as the one before to remove all the deeper scratches as the grit before. Super duty compound will remove 1500 grit scratches. Fineness-it will remove the swirl from the compound. I then use machine glaze and then a good wax. I am a 3m fan and i use their stuff. Honestly turtle wax is decent believe it or not as a long lasting wax. It is just a matter of using the right stuff and taking your time. Like Bob mentioned , 303 is a pretty good sunscreen , especially down here in south Florida.

There was a lot of action on this thread so quickly. I figured there was a lot of interest.

This method listed is exactly what we do at the shop if we do any work on gelcoat. We have tried many methods and this is the only sure fire method. Of course the big "if" is "if" the gel is thick enough. It almost always is. It depends on how the boat was layed up but on a proper uniform gel this method can be done several times before you would burn through the gel. Boats that have never been sanded will shine much longer than boats that have. There is no better finish than the finish out of the mold. all repairs will show up overtime and will need to have a total polish periodically to bring back the shine.

It is very important to keep the sun off of a sanded and polished boat. You just have to take great care of the boat. Wax, protectant, cover and all will be good.