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View Full Version : Tilt Sending Unit for Trim Gauge - remove drive?



BOSTONCAMARO
09-26-2013, 10:00 AM
1992 Sweet 16 Ford 302 OMC Cobra Drive

One other thing we need to address is the sending unit for trim gauge, the gauge itself does work and the shop it was at said it was the sending unit, but he couldn't get one at that point - needed to get our boat together for now as he was swamped with winterizing etc. Said we can bring back in spring, but maybe I will do it myself if I have time.

A couple of questions.

Does drive have to come off to replace?

Good source of trim sending unit online?

Thanks, Tim

Conquistador_del_mar
09-26-2013, 11:21 AM
I had to get the same sender replaced in a 1989 Four Winns with the Cobra drive for my stepson this year. I had a mechanic doing the work on the boat, but I don't remember if the drive had to come off to do it (he had the drive off anyway). Getting the wires through the transom assembly is always the hard part of the task. I think this will be the sender you need which is the one we ended up using on the 1989. Bill

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trim-Sender-Sending-Unit-OMC-Cobra-Volvo-984748-3850470-/171130517301#ht_2241wt_932

TBroccoli
09-27-2013, 12:49 PM
Most people told me the drive had to come off. A small few stated it really didn't have to come off. I would love to know the real answer also. I have no need to remove the drive but I can't stand the display on my dash not working. i was even thinking of splicing the old wires to the new sender. Is there any type of water proof connectors out there? How long would they last?

MOP
09-27-2013, 03:04 PM
Even with the drive off it can be a bioch, that is why many chose to solder the wires outside. I have done both many times, if you solder use self sealing shrink tubing.

Phil

joseph m. hahnl
09-28-2013, 09:14 AM
Leave drive on, cut wire.:propeller:. The problem is usually in the sender screws. Stainless in aluminum :doh:snap, oops. :smash: break out the drill and tap:D

MOP
09-28-2013, 06:09 PM
The trick with soldering is a very short joint to maintain flexibility, if you make a section stiff it will break the wire close to the solder joint. What has worked very well is to strip about 1/4" push it into its self end for end, slide your heat shrink away from where you will be soldering. Don't gob it full of solder you want a clean smooth joint, use "Rosin Core" solder, acid core will corrode!!!