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boatnut
04-25-2013, 09:20 PM
I feel kind of dumb asking this -- but rather than experiment I will use your expertise. We are going to take the motor out of our '69 18 (302 H&M with a Volvo 250) and I need instructions :). I know the drive comes off first and I have done that before. I got the '69 40 years ago and the motor (other than heads) has never been out of the boat -- a testament to reliability as we never babied the boat either. I just want to know if I unbolt the motor from the bell housing, or the adapter between the bell housing and drive or take all of that out with the motor or what is the best way to disconnect the rear of the motor to get it out. The exh manifolds are off and I will take the water pump off the front of the engine to allow more clearance. I had the motor (289) out of a '67 barrel back I had at one time but that was about 43 years ago and I forgot the details.

thks in advance, Ed

f_inscreenname
04-26-2013, 01:24 AM
When you take the drive off look at the transom shield (from the outside) you will see a metal ring with 6 bolts in it. Take the 6 bolts out and the rear of the motor is ready to come out. From past experience when you take the 6 bolts out the metal ring will be stuck in there due to the rubber donuts being compressed for all those years. When you jack the motor up (after unbolting the motor mounts) you will have to wiggle it back and forth a little to get it to pop put.
When you take the drive off look at the transom shield (from the outside) you will see a metal ring with 6 bolts in it. Take the 6 bolts out and the rear of the motor is ready to come out. From past experience when you take the 6 bolts out the metal ring will be stuck in there due to the rubber donuts being compressed for all those years. When you jack the motor up (after unbolting the motor mounts) you will have to wiggle it back and forth a little to get it to pop put.

http://www.supernova19.com/resurrectionmarine/192f4a20.jpg

boatnut
04-26-2013, 10:44 AM
Got it, assuming they look OK, are those rubber doughnuts OK to reuse or should they be changed? thks again, Ed

mattyboy
04-26-2013, 11:47 AM
it may be easier to get the motor out by leaving the bell housing and input shaft in the boat.the motor is shorter that way . support the motor and unbolt the bell housing from the block. slide the motor fwd so it comes of the shaft not sure if you will have to turn the motor to a 45 degree angle to get it out of the hatch. I did this but on a hornet with a ton of room and also with the longer input shaft housing. I seperated the bell housing and motor from the input shaft housing.

I guess it comes down to do you have enough room to slide the motor forward with out hitting the rear seat before the back of the input shaft clears the transom plate and then enough room to have it come out of the hatch.

good luck

f_inscreenname
04-27-2013, 01:08 AM
I reuse unless totally screwed up. I also always put a smear of black RTV on both sides just to be safe when reinstalling them.

mattyboy
04-27-2013, 08:57 AM
if you need anything Volvo these guys usually have it a decent prices

http://www.frenchcreekmarina.com/

Just Say N20
04-27-2013, 10:53 PM
Ditto to what Matty said. When I pulled my engine, I left the bell housing loosened, but still with the hull. I had to use a wide screw driver to carefully pry the bell housing loose from the block. If it feels stuck, check to make sure you got all the bolts.

Then you pretty much have to rotate the engine sideways to get it out. MUCH easier if you take odd the exhaust manifolds first.

boatnut
04-28-2013, 12:01 AM
I think I got the options understood enough to get the engine out -- probably will have to disconnect it from the bell housing as suggested. One task (in addition to the engine rebuild or replace and the hull work-- maybe even deck off tank change) is to properly repaint the 250 drive. We are now thinking of keeping our drive and repainting it to correct the minor corrosion and nicks etc. it has. This drive has been flawless in operation, had a lower seal changed once when I noticed water getting in the oil while at Lake Tahoe -- other than that nothing but oil changes (again 44 years). I have been searching for a thread or info on refinishing the drive -- it seems to me that painting it without taking it apart will only result in continued corrosion where the different parts bolt together -- any leads on properly dealing with this issue? And does anyone suggest doing more to an operational drive other than refinish (and lube the u-joints)? In my experience , volvos are bullet proof. Thanks again guys, (Matty, I'll keep your volvo source in mind) Ed

mattyboy
04-28-2013, 11:26 AM
when i did mine I didn't seperate the drive leg( upper from lower) but did have the transom housing off the boat . it was in three pieces drive, transom housing and trim ears. yours probably won't have the trim ears. each unit was taken down to bare alum then i used ratle cans of moeller green chromate primer and moeller late 1970's volvo white.

volvo used a few shades of white tempo had them but now they are moeller paints and I could only find the newer white

it seems to hold up well

note in the last pic you can see the input shaft the motor had the bell housing and flex plate installed. the motor was lifted into the bilge and placed in position then bolted up . this is the longer input housing the short one the bell housing will be left connected to the transom housing

CHACHI
04-29-2013, 07:50 AM
if you need anything Volvo these guys usually have it a decent prices

http://www.frenchcreekmarina.com/

These guys have tons of Volvo parts. I went there to purchase some exhaust hose and he had a handful of new duo-props complete, just sitting there. I can't even begin to guess how much inventory this place has.

Of course they are located in the beautiful Thousand Islands.

Ken