69' Classic18 fuel tank

[gotboats]

Hello, I own a 69' Donzi Classic 18 Holman & Moody marine boat. It is all white/ Black stripe and Black interior. It is in excellent ORIGINAL cond. I've owned it since the mid 80's and I bought it from my Dad who owned it since the early 70's. basically since new. It has been pretty much used in Northern California lakes. It has a 302 that I'm wanting to rebuild. Also the outdrive (Volvo) I'm considering going through and painting. Although there is no real issues this has never been done. The motor is getting tired but who/what isnt after close to 45yrs? So the million dollar ques. Do I take the deck off and replace foamed in fuel tank? I do not smell fuel nor am I currently having any issues. I could check for rot, change shifting cable ect. ect. while it is off but I would rather not right now unless it is really necessary. Any help in any of the work I'm considering doing would be much appreciated. Thks Bill..... Near lake Tahoe, Ca.

[mattyboy]

I would say a 45 yr old tank has done its time the tank would be my first task

[hardcrab]

I would say a 45 yr old tank has done its time the tank would be my first task

and then you'll have full access to everything else once the deck comes off ....... :wrench:

my gut say's to keep enjoying it until there's a reason to take it apart

[Conquistador_del_mar]

If the fuel tank foam has never had water do its damage, I can make a case that the tank could last more than 100 years. My 1971 18' 2+3 has never leaked and the inside only needed a little vacuum cleaning after I got all the fuel out. I got a light and mirror into the fuel gauge sending unit access plate and it looked fine inside. Obviously I replaced the sending unit and did away with the screen on the pickup after lengthening the pickup tube since I now have a fuel filter in line. Here is a picture of the debris and parts in my tank after 40 years and over 2000 hours running time and a picture showing the bottom of the tank after I cleaned it out. It is a relatively huge job to get to the tank if replacement is not really required. My two cents, Bill

[mattyboy]

Bill,

I agree some tanks last longer but the big difference is your tank in a 71 is alum a 69 most likely would have a steel tank, in 70 they outlawed steel tanks.

the steel tank in my 67 was a ticking time bomb. Not to mention a fuel system from that era dealing with todays ethanol.

gotboats

Not sure how long the boating season is in northern cali but we are approaching prime boating season in a month or so here. are you going to start this now or in the next offseason? I agree with hardcrab the deck off makes things easier but I can tell you once you start the "well while i am at it game" it can get into the twice as long twice as much thingy but when finished you know what you have and it will last another 40 yrs . if you pull the motor might has well re wire it , paint the bilge , check for rot, that is an iffy proposistion on a 44 yr old boat.

I just did the pull the motor rebuild re wire on my 68 hornet i could have just done a powerwash and good fluff and buff but that would make me feel like a stooley in the witness protection plan starting his car every morning not really sure what is going to happen when you hit the key. The original wiring and the added wiring were a mess. the tank was replaced in the hornet about 15 yrs ago so I didn't have to worry about it. I was lucky the boat itself was very solid and the deck had foam coring . the boat looked pretty good cosmetically a few wrinkles here and there so i decided it was going to try and preserve her not restore her.

do a search here on tanks several members have done them . that will give you an idea what is involved in one.

here is what I did to mine.

http://www.lgdonziclassic.com/pdfs/302refurb.pdf

[gotboats]

Thanks all for your comments. As good as waiting for a problem to surface before addressing it sounds good, however I know myself and it would bother me until forever.. I'm leaning towards the deck off option and spending alittle more time or alot more addressing any potential problems and cleaning up existing wiring ect. I do have my fathers classic 22 to run around in while I work on mine. So alittle less pain. I will be starting as soon as I come up with a game plan. Finding a shop to do motor work and a shop to go through and paint outdrive. ect. So thanks in advance as I'm sure I will be leaning on all of you in the near future.....Bill

[Ed Donnelly]

Sounds like you have a pretty nice Dad.....Ed

[VetteLT193]

One thing worth mentioning is you probably are not going to see any holes. It is likely that there will be eleven million microscopic ones that form and get slightly bigger... the problem comes up when some of them reach, say, tip of a ballpoint pen size.

This is aluminum tank experience. I can't speak to how the steel ones go.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Bill,

I agree some tanks last longer but the big difference is your tank in a 71 is alum a 69 most likely would have a steel tank, in 70 they outlawed steel tanks.

the steel tank in my 67 was a ticking time bomb. Not to mention a fuel system from that era dealing with todays ethanol.



Matty,
I was not aware of the construction change in those years. I am a fan of preventative maintenance so that would probably be enough of a difference to make me agree that it should be done. Bill

[hardcrab]

I had to recore my deck several years ago on my '66 18', so I replaced the tank since "I was at it". I was really suprised how solid the original still was, and no evidence of leaks

[gcarter]

Here's the tank for my 22C Testa Rossa project.
I bought it at Best Fab in Bartow, FL. A friend of mine recommended this company, and I'm very please w/it.
They were easy to deal with and modified it according to my needs.
They were quite a bit less expensive than RDS.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61999&stc=1&d=1299334788

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62004&stc=1&d=1299334788


The coating is coal tar epoxy, probably the best tank coating available at a price you could afford ($50.00 extra).
There're drawings on this site for just about every tank offered in a classic. There have been two tanks in 18's, the 25 gallon tank also offered in the 16, and the 41 gallon tank also offered in the Minx. It's easy to move the rear tank bulkhead and install the larger tank.
Here's a link to a thread about a barrelback 18 where I changed the tank and installed the larger 41 gallon version.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?49388-vonkamp-s-Barrel-Back-18

[gotboats]

That does look like a nice well built tank. With that coating can it be foamed in again? Also with the x-tra $50 what was the cost? I know it will just be a guideline cost wise. Thanks for your replys all......Bill

[gcarter]

Yes, it's ideal for foaming in.
The cost is approximately $10.00 per gallon.

[gotboats]

Jeez, just slightly more than the gas itself!!!

[Just Say N20]

If you want a preview, and have some time. . .


http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?58186-Deck-is-off&highlight=Deck+is+off

[gotboats]

http://www.donzi.net//stronghold.com/img/app/logoSmall.png

What's this? (http://www.donzi.net//stronghold.com/terms)


So I just removed the Holman & Moody log style aluminum exhaust manifolds. They seem to be in very good cond. No pitting I can see however there is a bit of a pit in the last exhaust port on each side. Years ago I had some material added on one side to fill it in. It is not excessive but there. So before I ask the question my goal on my boat is to restore back to original. I know there are a million ways to improve on various aspects but my boat is already a 8 out of ten in terms of cond. all serial #'s match I have original price sheet and so on. Also my moter looks bad ass. The real reason for me even really making this a fairly large project is the fuel tank. I think I will get the deck off see what I have and order the tank Mr. Carter showed me. So right now I am trying to confirm the integrity of my manifolds and have them boiled out and water ports checked. Who does this? I've checked with several machine shops to no avail. Any suggestion? Also it has a 302 with a volvo 250. When I get everything back together with a performance prop anyone know what I can expect for speed. It has been a 49-51 mph boat in recent years on gps. I will say the motor other than the heads has not been touched in 43+ yrs. I also 10yrs ago changed over to an electronic ignition. I will be asking many questions in the near future as I'm going to pull motor and drive and look for the best place on the west coast to re- build my motor and a place to completely go through my drive and paint it. So thanks again in advance for your advise.. Bill P.S. I will try to post some pics soon

[mattyboy]

a 225- 235 hp 302 with a good prop on a 18 is just going to be a tad faster than your numbers 53-55 would be the upper limit. the log exhausts were hard on the back of the motor. I understand the desire to keep it all original but trying to fix 45 yr old risers might not be the best idea. if you plan on trying to improve performance you can keep the logs to the side for the next owner and invest in an alum center risers like barr. you are going to find that the lack of a reasonable priced high performance exhaust is going to limit your choices and options for performance mods. The original logs or even decent replacement logs are not going to enhance value and in the long run may kill any investment in the motor.

Have a hull number. pics would be cool too.

[SanDogDewey]

Bill,
My 68 Ski Sporter is very similiar to your 18. I picked it up last year and have been working to get it ready for this summer. I replaced the cast intake with an Edelbrock Performer and the original Autolite carb with a Holley 450 Marine. The Volvo 250 outdrive was making some weird noises, so I picked up a real nice 270 and installed it. I also replaced the distributor with a Mallory magnetic pickup unit. My exhaust manifolds were mis-matched, having an original log on one side and a cast OSCO on the other, so I bought a matching OSCO and sidelined the log.

I would pay attention to the Primary Drive Shaft Bearing (PDS) in the intermediate housing. After I got my boat running, the driveline got noisier at every outing. It's in the shop right now getting the PDS bearing replaced. From what I understand, most cannot be greased without removing the engine. It would be a good time to change out the U-joints while you're at it.

My boat:
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?67999-Dewey-s-New-Project

A previous owner of my boat said it also spent a lot of time on Lake Arrowhead and Lake Tahoe. It now resides in San Diego.

[gotboats]

Thanks for all your replys. Do you have a part# for the barr manifold? I looked and didnt find what I needed on the web site. I have a 302 and I dont want to modify my hatch so clearance may be an issue. I would consider a 270 a I believe it has electric trim. Will the newer 270 drive also add mph given the same hp as opposed to the 250?

[mattyboy]

Check sandogdewey's thread he used osco center risers basically the same
I have the Barr part numbers at home ill post up later

Electric trim won't cut it you need a 270t or 280t. Both of which would need their respective unique transom shields. Trim is nice but it is not the
Golden ticket to the great advance in speed. Get her running get a good prop solas Titan or Volvo ultra and see what ya have

[Bob]

I'm not confident that steel tanks were "outlawed" in 1970. My Hornet #59 has a Galvanized steel tank and is a 1971. Perhaps I have a limited edition "Outlaw" tank, which might add to the value.;) The galvanized tank in my 1951 Chris Craft is still pristine. Of course, it has never been off of Lake George. How the boat was cared for, and its location are the big drivers in how long the tanks last. I will agree, if the history/ provenance is unknown, replace it.

[mattyboy]

here is the link for the barr manifolds

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/barr_marine/catalog.html?http://www.marineengine.com/parts/barr_marine/index.htm?gclid=CPLWjaOe2bYCFcbb4AodSXoARA


Rob, the mandate at that time was to the tank mfr's that they couldn't make steel tanks not to the boat mfr's about the installation of steel tanks . Your benchseat may not be an outlaw edition but may be the last benchseat . . From what I have seen from the 71-72 18's they have alum tanks they also use the same tank as the 16 so at that time it was a high turnover of stock, the hornet was not a high production number so the tank stock may not have turned over. Would be interesting to see if you have a 60 gal tank or the smaller 45 gal tank

The last documented benchseat before yours was hull 46. doesn't mean there are not more after that we just haven't found them yet.

here is a link on the Hornet hulls trying to document the benchseat from the 2+3 as the hull numbers were kept as a total of both models

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?68209-Hornet-19-foot-model-database&highlight=hornet+database