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Conquistador_del_mar
11-30-2012, 02:27 PM
Does anyone have an easy way of cutting braided hose? I was thinking about using my chop saw after taping the end. Any other method that does not leave loose wires that are difficult to thread into the fittings? I have been using straight shears, but they are difficult to make the cuts. Bill

Ghost
11-30-2012, 02:52 PM
Okay, I have zero experience here, just thinking out loud. I'm prepared for the laughing to start at any time.

For starters, is there any way better than just tape to fuse the woven metal in place without destroying what's underneath? A bit like you would with liquid rope whipping before cutting rope? Maybe mask a strip where you'll make the cut, then paint that with epoxy or something?

And/or use a bunch of tape for extra support when making the cut, insert a well-fitted dowel inside the hose, and then crank down some hose clamps immediately on the sides of the spot you'll cut? (To get the dowel in, you might need to do a rough cut with bolt cutters or something, then do a second, finished cut.)

And of course, cut with something very fine, like a high-speed grinding disc.

(Trying to think of anything that will help immobilize the woven metal, and pull on the individual strands as little as possible during the cutting process. What do the pros do, laser-cut it?)

SamIam
11-30-2012, 03:01 PM
You need to buy the "Braided hose" cutting tool. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900040.
I used to use a die grinder w/carbide wheel - the snap-on thin ones with tape. Bought the cutting tool. Works great!

justleft
11-30-2012, 03:20 PM
I use a band saw with a very fine toothed metal blade. It must be sharp to keep from grabbing braid.
I like to wrap the ss braid in fiber tape (strapping tape).

But your going to poke your fingers a dozen time anyways. :tooth:

Shooter
11-30-2012, 03:33 PM
We use a die grinder also for 3/4" and less with a carbide cutoff wheel. As SamIam says Summit Racing sells a tool for around 40 bucks. I like the die grinder much better, the cut is better.
Either way we wrap with duct tape before cutting. No need to put anything inside the hose. Blow out the hose with Brake Kleen and high pressure air.

Pismo
11-30-2012, 03:33 PM
Tape it up tight of course and then cut it with a hack saw with two blades on it oriented opposite ways. It works great.

gcarter
11-30-2012, 03:41 PM
Tape the hose where the cut is to be. Then use a carbide cut off wheel in a 4-1/4" rt. angle grinder.

My local Aeroquip dealer tapes the hose and uses a chop saw. The chop saw may have a cut off wheel mounted in it.
I've not personally seen it.

Bill, I also trimmed any loose ends w/a bench grinder.
Patience.

SanDogDewey
11-30-2012, 03:46 PM
I duct tape the end and cut it with my 4 1/2" DeWalt angle grinder with a metal cutoff blade. I trim the duct tape and leave 1/2" on the end and insert the hose into the fitting. Put the fitting in the padded jaws of the vice and insert the end.

Conquistador_del_mar
11-30-2012, 04:06 PM
Thanks guys - :wink:. Apparently there are quite a few methods you guys have been using. I will do a practice cut with my chop saw and report the results. I was a little surprised at the 2 hacksaw blades in opposite directions, but stranger things have worked. If the chop saw does not work, I will probably order one of the cutting tools from Summit - that sure sounds easy if it cuts the ends perfectly- :cool: Years ago I remember using an angle grinder, but it had the thick cutting wheel that did not do a very good job for me since it was hand held. Thanks again, Bill

Shooter
11-30-2012, 04:18 PM
In the WAY back machine I used my Makita 10" miter saw with a cement blade, and plumbed entire fuel system in a 289 Cobra clone. Got some pics somewhere.
Don't forget to use lube when assembling the hose to the fitting, WD40 works fine. What kind of fittings?

johnnywhale
11-30-2012, 05:24 PM
I usually use a cut off wheel, but once at work used my buddy's method of a very sharp cold chisel and a large hammer. Actually worked very well.

Nmbr1GMfan
11-30-2012, 07:23 PM
Chop saw will work fine just electical tape it tight and cut it quick.

maddad
11-30-2012, 08:30 PM
If you turn the blade around backwards in the chop saw, it'll cut the braided hose much better.

Conquistador_del_mar
11-30-2012, 10:20 PM
Thanks again for all of your suggestions. I used my chop saw with an abrasive wheel to see how it worked. Here is the interesting thing. At first I used 3M blue plastic tape tightly wrapped around the ss braided hose with poor results. I followed by wrapping with the 3M green tape (without the plastic) - it worked great! Apparently, the plastic gets so hot that it looses any strength. There were very few loose wires after I sawed it so I went to the bench grinder as George suggested. Bingo! This process can be done in no time so I suppose I will be using this method. I think it might be possible to get even better results with silver duct tape that has the thin metal as the strength material, but I didn't have any at my shop to try. Anyway, I wanted to pass this along. If the cutting tool that Summit sells works well, it would probably be the easiest since there would be no cleanup of the inside of the hose. Bill

Shooter
12-01-2012, 06:59 AM
Bill,
That cut looks perfect. The thread reinforced duct tape will definately help, you shouldn't need to go to the grinder.
Be aware that 99 percent of the tools sold by Summit & Jegs are made in China, my opinion, they may work for a few installs.
But they are basically throw away junk. Just my opinion. Pic below done with the chop saw as you described and duct dape. Like anything else, the more you do it, you pick up little tricks. Shooter
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e116/F_430/Cobra/WebersPass.jpg

SamIam
12-01-2012, 11:45 AM
These also help.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcm3661.
They are Aeroquipe vice blocks for holding the fittings.
The Cobra looks great!

johnnywhale
12-01-2012, 01:43 PM
Don't forget to clean out the hoses before you assemble them!

Conquistador_del_mar
12-01-2012, 01:43 PM
Shooter and SamIam,
Those are some great looking engines! My best friend on an old arrowhead collecting forum was Shooter (John Albright - RIP) who was an ex sniper. You wouldn't happen to also be ex military? I also have a Shelby Cobra clone which I rarely take out (2200 miles now). SamIam, what boat are those engines installed in? Bill

gcarter
12-01-2012, 02:30 PM
Shooter, the Weber setup looks great.
Did you set them up?
If you did, isn't it fun?
I haven't done any in about 40 years, but I certainly remember the experience.

SamIam
12-01-2012, 02:43 PM
The motors are in a 38' Fountain
The assembly lube that Aeroquipe or Earl's sells is another good item to use when assembling the hoses.

mphatc
12-05-2012, 09:50 PM
BIll,

Follow SaIam's suggestions, buy the tools from Summit. I use all of these in my race car shop, we do a lot of Aeroquip fittings . . have been using those cutters for 4+ years, never an issue.
There is also a set of hose end guide blocks I use for initial assembly, easily sets depths of the hose thru the nut. Any cutting , abrasive and blade produces too much grit for lubrication systems, UNLESS you have lots of fluid to flush rinse each hose, creating flow through the hose like a garden hose.

Mario L.

Shooter
12-08-2012, 05:29 PM
"GCarter"

Yes tuning the Webers with the Inglese linkage is a nightmare for a V8. Where the front carb left effected the rear carb right ect. Horrible setup that Comp Cams still uses.
In contrast, tuning a 6 Weber Ferrari Daytona is very simple, each carb has it's own linkage off a main shaft, set all to same vacuum. Done. The Inglese setup was horrible then and still is. IMO

Conquistador_del_mar
10-01-2013, 02:39 AM
I wanted to bring this thread back up to report on some cutters I bought on Ebay and finally got to use today for the first time. These cutters easily made the cut, but they flattened the hose a little. However, it was no problem getting it back to round and installing the end. I would highly recommend getting a pair if you need to do some stainless hose fittings. In this case, I wanted to replace an end in my Warlock, and I was able to do it without having to remove the hose from the engine. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=350880892407#ht_133wt_932

MOP
10-01-2013, 09:36 AM
Interestingly enough I saw another trick by a local, he uses silicone to coat the area to be cut. he waits until the next day to make his cuts, a little more time consuming but absolutely no loose strands. He also says the ends screw on more easily.

Conquistador_del_mar
10-01-2013, 01:05 PM
Interestingly enough I saw another trick by a local, he uses silicone to coat the area to be cut. he waits until the next day to make his cuts, a little more time consuming but absolutely no loose strands. He also says the ends screw on more easily.

What form of silicone is he using and why does he have to wait to make the cut?

Ed Donnelly
10-01-2013, 04:12 PM
the silicone hardens overnight...Ed

Conquistador_del_mar
10-02-2013, 02:32 AM
Okay, apparently you are talking about silicone caulking. I thought it might be some other form of silicone was why I asked what form of silicone. :bonk: