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SanDogDewey
09-18-2012, 01:40 PM
I'll move my post from "Posting Help" post to something more appropriate.

Well, my daughter and I got her home last night after running around town looking for the right trailer ball. She pulled really nice on the dual axle trailer. I was a little concerned about getting her in our narrow driveway but now she looks like she belongs there.

JL - Beautiful looking boat you have there. I hope this one cleans up half as well.
Buizilla - I'll check the original outdrive S/N, the gear is stripped, but it came with the boat. The HM tag is long gone from the bell housing and I don't believe I'll be pulling the starter anytime soon for block numbers.

The PO had a folder of original Donzi marketing posters and advertisements that came with the boat. I'll scan or take some pictures of them if anyone is interested. They also had a copy of the HM booklet that came with the boat with all the engine specs along with Donzi price sheets for 1967 and a couple of other years. Pretty neat.

My first order of buisiness is to flush out the fuel tank. I was planning on slushing some gas around in there and pumping it back out. Has anyone ever pressure tested one? I made a pressure tester when I plumbed some new gas line to my barbeque, fire pit and pool heater. I was thinking I could pressurize the tank with some low pressure air and see if she holds. Thoughts?

The PO had some recent work done to the boat including a water pump, fuel pump and one exhaust manifold (so I have one OSCO and one HM). Not sure why they didn't just do both. She starts and runs pretty nice. A little hesitant on the revs, but I'm sure the carb just needs a good cleaning.

Next is to see if I can get some color and shine back into the hull. Plan on using some 3M Super Duty and Finesse.

mattyboy
09-18-2012, 01:57 PM
judging by the setup scripts but lion and dolphin decals plus the horizontal dash plate, I would say the boat is a 68 maybe early 69 which means if the tank is original , the tank is a terne steel tank and needs to be replaced. as will any pre ethanol rubber in the fuel lines.

HM parts can still be had but certain parts are very hard to find . you are going to want to address the exhaust new center risers can be found at a reasonable price. check ebay as well for a 250 or 270 drive leg in a a V8 ratio

you can check these guys for volvo parts

check our resource page for volvo penta dealers (http://www.lgdonziclassic.com/pages/resources_ps.asp)

and also a holman moody specs manual (http://www.lgdonziclassic.net/pdfs/hm_specs.pdf)


good luck on the project

SanDogDewey
09-18-2012, 11:07 PM
Found these numbers on what I believe to be the original drive.

13771 - upper part
25065 - lower

Got all the gauges except the fuel gauge working tonight in addition to the lights. Pulled out the bimini top and it looks brand new.

Found these with all the boat paperwork.

73000730017300273003

SanDogDewey
09-18-2012, 11:18 PM
Found these with all the paperwork too!
730047300573006

SanDogDewey
09-18-2012, 11:26 PM
One more...

73007

scgj
09-19-2012, 01:37 AM
cool stuff!

mattyboy
09-19-2012, 01:59 AM
neat stuff.

those numbers don't really help but a volvo 250 serial number with a 6 after the zero would place it about mid 69 they made a few in that color combo and the 16 left the factory unrigged more than any other model so you are going to have get up under the deck and look for black marker. look at them from all angles they may be upside down sideways look at the bow eye backing plate with a flashlight the numbers were usually there as well as the dash

SanDogDewey
09-19-2012, 11:07 AM
I can't make heads or tails out of the numbers on the dash. Looks like 710-11 to me!

73010

mattyboy
09-19-2012, 11:25 AM
check up by the bow eye backing plate, sometimes the numbers on the dash were incomplete or hard to read after holes were cut and the rigging was added

710 would make it a mid to late 70's boat and then it would have a HIN on the transom have you checked there just incase?, but judging from the setup as I mentioned earlier this looks to be a boat from the end of the teleflex ownership to the begining of the full Chisholm ownership 68-69

here is what the bow eye numbers look like they were written before the boat was put together and someone just reached over and wrote them however their arm landed. I was up tightening these bolts at least 4 times and never saw the numbers, they are sideways 16-410

mattyboy
09-19-2012, 11:41 AM
the red box looks like it contains the number 16 the first mark is straight and the next mark is slanted like a 6 would be perhaps it is being hidden by the cable clamp and a dash just outside the box to the left.


the green box looks to have more black marker lines possibly a number or part of a number that was cut out for the dash plate

the blue box holds what looks like 710 ( hull 710 would not be handwritten it would be embedded in the transom) but could be something else , need to look at it from all angles. the bow eye would be my next step

hope that helps

BUIZILLA
09-19-2012, 03:42 PM
from our original factory library files (www.donzi.org (http://www.donzi.org)) we know that partial drive #25063 was on hull #546, we also know that partial drive #25064 was on hull #550, both built early 1969... so, we're getting warm :wink:

partial drive # 25065 showing up on hull # 710 would be a big spread of sequence builds

we also know that there were 26 yellow / black hulls built with HM engines in that era

if your paperwork reflects the selling dealer :crossfing:, we can zoom in on what your looking for :lookaroun:

SanDogDewey
09-19-2012, 05:12 PM
Is this the original layout for the interior?

73013

jl1962
09-19-2012, 05:23 PM
Original layout? Yes. All Ski Sporters had the L-seating (to facilitate the spotter). I happen to like it but others prefer the 2 + 3 layout which wasn't offered on a 16 until 30+ years later.

That is not the original helm or the original seatbacks. The seat bottoms might be original, but I can't tell for sure

Should look like this. BTW - my helm is not original either but it is Donzi OEM. The L-seats are original. BTW - love the chrome rear view window on your boat. I have the same one but haven't figured out where (if) to mount it now that my windshield is off.

73014

SanDogDewey
09-19-2012, 06:03 PM
Thanks JL,

What is that in the center of your rear seat? Vent? What year did they incorporate it? I like the 3 section seat backs. I'm sure they are easier to install. I'm going to have a set made and I think I'll have them do the 3 sections backs and 2 section bottoms. I'm going to copy Bill's velcro on the seat backs but keep the snaps on the bottoms. I can remove the snaps on the tops and cover over the holes with velcro. I don't think the bottoms would be as clean an install. If I ever paint it, I'll fill everything in and go full velcro mode.

jl1962
09-19-2012, 07:21 PM
The fitting in the center of the rear seat is the aft companion of the fitting in the front of the cockpit where you have the mirror mounted. Originally there was a two piece aluminum tube that sleeved together and once attached fore and aft, ran the length of the cockpit. Once the tonneau was snapped on over it would keep the rain puddles from pooling.

I don't have a very good picture - but this gives you an idea.....

73015

SanDogDewey
09-20-2012, 12:03 AM
I believe the light and blower switches are Cole Hersee. Is the ignition switch still being manufactured?

silverghost
09-20-2012, 12:14 AM
Yes~

The old school style heavy duty C~H chrome & brass ignition switch is indeed still manufactured & still sold by most marine supply houses such as West Marine etc.

Bobby D
09-20-2012, 07:34 AM
Very nice find and good luck, this is my old 1970 ski sporter with the original HM helm and driver seat

jl1962
09-20-2012, 07:49 AM
Another great picture of Bob's old boat. Hull #600 right?

73017

The nicest and most original Ski Sporter I have seen - so far!

Do you have a picture of the fire extinguisher?

SanDogDewey
09-20-2012, 08:04 AM
BobbyD - Beautiful boat you have there! Do you know what SN the dash was changed to your configuration?

Does someone have a wiring diagram for the Volvo outdrive. The lift motor on mine will come on without the switch being engaged. If I press the switch down it stops. Bad switch or limit switch or is the drive trying to keep itself up? Is the red light a transition light? Can you still get the switch assembly?

Appreciate all the help here. I'm not new to boats, but I am new to restoring them. I've spent the last few years restoring motorcycles, so this is a whole new ball game for me.

73018

BUIZILLA
09-20-2012, 08:27 AM
welp Patrick... now you've gone and done it... posted a pic of my favorite older cycle... Mr X on here also has one in his infatuation world.... :)

what year is it?

SanDogDewey
09-20-2012, 06:51 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

It's a 1980 Honda CBX. It hadn't run in 14 years when I found it. Frame up restoration with a couple of mods.

Tried to take a shake down maiden voyage on the Donzi today. Got her launched and fired up but I couldn't get it to shift into gear. The cable is split at the outdrive and it was pretty corroded. I got it worked loose with some PB Blaster, but I'm going to need a new cable. Do you order them by length?

Bobby D
09-21-2012, 08:25 AM
Jay,
Good memory it is hull number 16600, original Rocket trailer and original Volvo 250 outdrive. Iíll look around to see if I have a picture of the original fire extinguisher.

SanDogDewey
09-21-2012, 06:42 PM
It looks likes she is 16-512

73028

Now what can you tell me about her?

mattyboy
09-21-2012, 06:50 PM
1968 model boat and engine 225 HM 289 ci with a volvo aq 200 drive sold to hillside started 7-8-68 completed 7-26-68 billed a day later


so it looks like with the numbers for the drive you have given the lower is not original and with out the block casting numbers there is no way to determine if the mill is original.

as I said before this would fit the change in ownership from teleflex to full chisholm ownership , once the Chisholm's took over they abandoned the script logo and the prop logo.. the int'l flags were dropped for the lion and dolphin by 69-70 the dash was also changed like Bobby D's, they used the old shifter knobs til they ran out my 68 has a prop logo shifter but came with the lion and dolphin flag. by 69 the scripts on the side were pretty much gone.

jl1962
09-21-2012, 06:52 PM
8 minutes Matty?

What took you so long?

;)

So 92 boats after mine in a little over a year.

mattyboy
09-22-2012, 07:31 AM
Sorry Jay I do have some latency on my network I was only working with a 100 meg uplink and I was playing words with friends ;)
yes Jay they were still at that point getting a 16 in and out of the mold and out the door in two weeks

the flags are a little harder to pin point Bobby D's 1970 hull has the flags but it's sister ship hull 627 a 71 has the lion and dolphin. I have seen the lion and dolphin on boats as early as 1968 so I am not sure what the demarcation point is? and wether it was arbitrary done by the factory or if it was optional?

here is hull 627 the same setup as Bobby D's very original lived on a lift on my lake for close to 40 yrs now it is a Pacific northwest boat.


SDD good luck with the project if you have any questions on the ford volvo combo please feel free to post up or drop me a line.

if you need HM info Bobby D was nice enough to donate a copy of the HM specs and parts manual to the Lake George Donzi Classic Club . We are in the process of scanning and posting it up.

jl1962
09-22-2012, 07:57 AM
So Bob's boat is #600 from 1970 - 88 boats after SDD's '68 and #627 was a '71? Interesting. Other than Bill's 409 and your old 410, I'm not aware of the hull numbers of many (any) earlier boats. I look forward to being able to flesh out the new Registry on the LGDCC page.


It's amazing how you (and others) have all this info recorded somewhere. It truly enhances the ownership experience of these old boats. In fact it is the difference between a nondescript mystery boat and owning a classic marque.

:smile:

mattyboy
09-22-2012, 08:38 AM
Jay

they were going gangbusters on the 16 up until the mid 70's then they slowed down, 67 to 68 approx 90 hulls about the same from 68 to 70 then from 71 to 79 they only made approx 100 hulls in 8 years. with all the other models in the line up 16 production and sales were down.

Magic bill has a 67 i think it was Jerry E.'s old boat hull 413 i think. there is also the grumble green and white one from LG sold to someone from Can. I think it was a 67 . the red and white one from the west coast too all early ones 67-68 and speedracers v drive is a late 66 or early 67 not to mention Bobincovingtons 66 with an eaton

the reason some many 67's are still around is the lack of coring in construction and the numbers in which they were produced.


on a side note Jay we really didn't get a chance to talk in LG on your observations on the differences in a Ski Sporter and a Sweet 16 . That will have to find it's way into the record some time.

Morgan's Cloud
09-22-2012, 10:32 AM
Just have to love these 'number mysteries' .. especially when they're cracked !

Does anyone know for sure if there was a time when they didn't have any numbers at all ?

sspeed33317
09-22-2012, 12:55 PM
Think mine is a early 66 , it has no number on the bow eye chock and havent
found one behind the instrument panel yet, it may be there but its covered.
The only thing that I found was 16-147 stamped on the Eaton drive housing
and the engine numbers puts it somewhere in 66. The transom construction
puts it about there also.

I just went thru all kinds of crap to get the title and the year is listed 0000

It's about to go thru a complete strip and restomod...
The drive is seized and so is the engine so they are getting updated...

Morgan's Cloud
09-22-2012, 01:02 PM
What is it about the transom construction that makes them different if they are very early ?

sspeed33317
09-22-2012, 07:22 PM
"What is it about the transom construction that makes them different if they are very early ?"


Its the shape of the core , mine is shaped like a fat T, some are just a rectangle, and some are a rectangle with half circles cut out for the exhaust.

Morgan's Cloud
09-23-2012, 07:13 AM
I thought they were doing that for a long time ... Was it really only for a year or two ?

mattyboy
09-23-2012, 07:57 AM
the record keeping came about when teleflex came around. . the production numbers have been said to have been enhanced for the sale to teleflex. so the real early Don A era boats might not have any numbers on them at all. the transom coring might be more a matter of the drive selection, doesn't the eaton have a wider bolt pattern? but that would translate into age as well as the eaton was quickly replaced with the aq200 . this might be a question for bobincovington to see what shape his transom core is.

Morgan's Cloud
09-23-2012, 08:12 AM
Mine never had through trans exhaust and the transom is the straight edged 'square' .

And never a number has been found anywhere. Bear in mind that it was a complete deck off , floor tub out resto and I have seen and touched every square inch of the interior hull , deck etc.

mattyboy
09-23-2012, 08:25 AM
MC
what year is your St Tropez? a volvo boat? yes some early donzi owners will never find a number

jl1962
09-23-2012, 08:29 AM
With regard to "enhanced" sales figure: if they were building about 60 boats/year from mid-'67 (my boat #420) until early '71 (#627) when production tailed off, were they really making over 200 boats/year in '65 and '66?

The world may never know!

BTW - my transom reinforcment rectangle shaped w/ the hourglass exhaust cut-outs.

I'll send a PM to Bob in Washington.

Morgan's Cloud
09-23-2012, 10:31 AM
Matty , like I said , I love a good mystery number thread ,especially when they get solved , regardless of the model .

I located mine in Feb of '87 in a printed copy of Boat Trader .. remember when they still had monthly printed issues ? lol
The seller (who was in Cooper City FL) claimed it was a '66 and I had no reason to not believe him.
Since then I've learned that things like the transom vent/light , engraved lifting rings and air registers would have been right for the time and I recall seeing the faded areas on the hull sides where there would have been the metal Donzi scripts.
The boat was completely unmolested when I got it and there had been no paint work or any 'body work' of any sort done. So any numbers should have been visible if there were ever any. I never saw any remains of a foil tag anywhere either.

When I redid the transom the old slug was original but had a few mods made to it and you could see that at least one previous drive cutout had been very carefully plugged and filled but I won't commit to saying that it was an Eaton hole.

There was on both sides near the Donzi sticker a somewhat decent condition 'Merc 888' sticker. I assumed that the boat predated the availability of that package and it was later repowered with one when they had just been introduced and were considered kind of cat's meowish .

Maybe I just have one of those Ba*tard Donzis ! ! :tooth:

mattyboy
09-24-2012, 06:29 AM
MC

they might not have ever marked the deck on the ST T really no need to with the other classics you had to make sure the right deck got on the right bottom

Morgan's Cloud
09-24-2012, 09:54 AM
I guess that kinda makes sense as far as not having to mark the deck .. I doubt if there ever was multiple St T's in production at the same time . At least not like the 16's and 18's

But would it have precluded the need to mark a number on the hull too as there was 2 other uses for that particular hull ?

Again , was there a known period when the early Donzis simply had no numbers at all ? I would speculate a guess that the best test of that would be to ask if the Baby 14's were numbered or not .

jl1962
09-24-2012, 10:22 AM
BobinCovington's '66 Ski Sporter is #226 - so perhaps they did make 200+/year in '65 and '66.

That's a lot of sideways Eatons!

mattyboy
09-24-2012, 01:38 PM
MC yes plus the decks were all white except for a handfull, really only the bench and st t for the hulls the 2+3 came around when record keeping was in place

the baby is not really a good example as they came on scene just before the teleflex sale. I would say if you found an original 3 model (16,19,28) in the 64 to early 65 era chances would be very high it has no numbers.

adding a digit to the real hull numbers can really boost production numbers but still stay within reality. Jay think about it if they really made 200 16 hulls by 65 we would be seeing more of them popping up. very rare to see pre 66 I can't imagine 200 + hulls being lost/rotting away /scrapped and only a handfull survived?

I have the records on a few early boats does Bob have a time frame or records from the bill of sale on his?

mattyboy
09-24-2012, 03:21 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]by sspeed33317.... Think mine is a early 66 , it has no number on the bow eye chock and havent
found one behind the instrument panel yet, it may be there but its covered.
The only thing that I found was 16-147 stamped on the Eaton drive housing
and the engine numbers puts it somewhere in 66. The transom construction
puts it about there also.

I just went thru all kinds of crap to get the title and the year is listed 0000

It's about to go thru a complete strip and restomod...
The drive is seized and so is the engine so they are getting updated... {$pagetext}[/QUOTE]



just a note the eaton drive was a called a series 16 the serial numbers ended with a 16 then an R or L( for prop rotation) then two digits.
so I believe your drive serial number ends 16-L47 do you have any numbers on the motor?

jl1962
09-24-2012, 04:53 PM
Matty -I don't know if Bob has a Bill of Sale, but the boat was featured in an August '66 boating mag - so must be an early '66.

I hear ya on the production numbers.........

mattyboy
09-24-2012, 05:49 PM
if you take into account the following


teleflex under Chisholm management was around in late 65 so a large influx of cash and large sales numbers

hull 136 was sold mid 65 before the teleflex deal so maybe they bumped the number by 100 and maybe hull 36 was sold in mid 65. then teleflex comes in and things go gang busters now hull 226 ( maybe hull 126)rolls out early to mid 66 about 90 hulls a year that number sounds familiar?

in that era the wait time for a new order was 30 days on the 16 and 12 weeks on the hornet or st T.

SanDogDewey
09-24-2012, 08:00 PM
Got a little fuel leaking from the sending unit. The gauge reads empty so I'm assuming the float is bad.
Will a standard Moeller unit work as a replacement? Anyone know how deep the tank is here?
73063
I'm assuming there was a rod attached here from the forward lift ring. Think this hull was separated? Why else would it be removed?
73064
73065
Are these both fuel filters?
73066
Part of a Speedometer?
73067
73068
73069

mattyboy
09-24-2012, 08:19 PM
http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarket/fuel_systems/fuel_senders/

check your ground

check the gauge

test the sender with a multimeter




should be a model number on the top of the sender if you need a new one take a measurement with the old one removed

if it is a sender make sure the new one matches the ohm range of the gauge.

mattyboy
09-25-2012, 07:16 AM
check the glass tab on the ski locker see if it has been cut and replaced that will tell you if the deck has been split.

also if the fuel system has not been updated to be ethanol resistant you are going to want to re do the fuel system.

Kirbyvv
09-25-2012, 08:01 AM
Yes, it looks like there was a lifting ring at one time. They basically are connected with a threaded rod.

Just Say N20
09-25-2012, 08:27 AM
Yes, there was a lifting ring. I'm not sure why someone would go through the exercise of cutting out the rod.

The clip on the transom is for a speedo pick up. I don't remember which brand. A whole new, complete pickup is around $15, and they are interchangeable.

Most US fuel senders have an ohm reading of between 33 and 240. As Matty said, check the ground, then check the sender. With it removed, swing the float arm back and forth with a meter reading the resistance. It is most likely the sender than is bad.

You can pick up a generic (you will have to adjust the swing arm length for your tank, matching what you pull out) sender for around $50.

The bolt pattern for the sender appears symmetrical, but it isn't. 2 of the holes are farther apart than the rest. When you go to either reinstall the current sender, or put in a new one, pay attention to the bolt pattern. It is done so you can't install the sender in such a way as to create interference with the float arm and the side of the the tank.

Regarding the filters; where do the hoses go to/from? If they were both filters, and both in use, I would expect them to be connected together, with fresh fuel coming into one, through it and into the second one, then out the second on to the carb.

SanDogDewey
09-25-2012, 12:09 PM
Thanks everyone.

The lifting ring is still on the bow, it's just not connected to the hull. Not sure why someone would do that. Looking inside the bow, I did notice that there is another set of screws holding the top down to the hull in addition to the screw that goes through the trim. Did they come that way?

I'll do some further troubleshooting on the sending unit tonight.

The fuel filters are in series. Fuel goes into the one on the left and then into the one of the right which looks a little more vintage. I'll keep them both. Although I can smell varnished gas, the boat runs very good. There is fresh gas in the tank and I keep cleaning out the fuel filters after I run it. Does everyone run octane booster and lead additive in the original motors?

mattyboy
09-25-2012, 12:13 PM
yes they used two sets of screws , regular screws to hold the deck and hull together then philips screws to hold the rub rail on.

the two fuel filters in series is probably to keep the crap in the tank out of the motor, treats the issue but doesn't treat the cause the tank is probably rotting from the inside out.

not sure where you are located but "if" your fresh gas has ethanol in it and the fuel system is the original one installed in 1968 the system is starting to decay right now. rubber seals lines and gaskets are dissolving .

sspeed33317
09-26-2012, 10:28 PM
FWIW here is a picture of my Eaton transom from the inside.
You can see the Fat "T"

http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n603/sspeed33317/19%20Sixty%20%20Donzi%20Ski%20Sporter/IMG_20120801_181737.jpg

SanDogDewey
10-01-2012, 09:34 PM
Looking for a cap and rotor for an Eaton Type 519A Distributor PN 1103043. Does anything cross?

.....I think I found it. Mallory MY-407 Cap and MY-302 rotor.

http://www.bluestreak.ca/Upload%5CBlueStreak%5CDocuments/STM-09.pdf

mattyboy
10-02-2012, 05:48 AM
the HM parts book shows a mallory YL445 JV has the part number for the distributor on the late model 289, and 221 has the part number for the cap they used the crab style cap on the HM fords that came in the 16 and the 18 for height restrictions.
see if that number helps cross your part.

I would also think about getting away from the points and condensors and think about something like this , you'll find some of the old distribs were not even marine rated

Mallory YLM (http://www.danamarineproducts.com/ProductDetails.cfm?group_id=6&catid=585&productid=4793&CFID=4671265&CFTOKEN=59c92ab-f2f31eda-75b7-4632-80c5-3fa4046fdd12) of course you'll have to make sure it fits or works with the low profile crab cap.

I know sierra makes the crab cap I don't have the part number it went in my book when I sold the 16

SanDogDewey
10-02-2012, 09:01 AM
It looks like mine is a EATON YL519A. Put a set of points in it, they were pretty fried. Found both the cap and rotor on Amazon. They're shipping today. Want to make sure she's her running well before I start updating it $$$. I was looking at the pointless distributors the other day. Seems like a good way to go unless you want to do a full HEI.

73178

Still wondering about the originality of this motor. I'll see if I can get a look behind the starter.

I know the carb is 1966 vintage Autolite 4100. Don't believe this was original HM equipment. I put a rebuild kit in it this week. Nice simple 4 barrel carb.

We're getting there! I've had it in the water twice, just keep finding little things. I've avoided the tow of shame so far!! A little prayer at the boat launch does wonders!!!

mattyboy
10-02-2012, 10:52 AM
HM did use Autolite on their stuff, you can try and look under the valve covers for casting numbers on the heads also,
plus the block casting numbers will help . It is good to keep in mind that SBF were used by a lot of MFG's volvo ,holman moody,waukesha,pcm , merc to name few. so over it's 40 plus years having non original parts may be unavoidable.

summit also has the parts for the mallory YL519

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Distributor-Model/YL519/

mattyboy
10-02-2012, 11:30 AM
another thing to keep in mind that is right in the time frame when the 289 was dropped for the 302 and during that change-over period 289s were made with 302 parts and vice versa. yours left the factory marked has a 225 hp 289 by late 68 the HM 225 hp motor was the 302

SanDogDewey
10-03-2012, 02:33 PM
Are the AQ200, 250, 260, 270 and 280 drives interchangeable with the correct ratio? Same mounting provisions and hookup?

mattyboy
10-03-2012, 02:52 PM
the AQ 200 250 and 270 are basically the same drives the internals were beefed up as they went so a 250 is stronger than a 200 and the 270 stronger than that. they also share the basic drive leg shape be careful though there are some minor changes to the reverse lock and some height differences. the 280 is really the same drive with a re-designed lower anti cav plate, a 250 or 270 will hang on a 280 housing , the 280 T added power trim , the 290 is a horse of a different color. the 290 had the best steering and trim combo of the AQ's

they made some slight changes in each progression it would be wise to get a whole unit together in one vintage ( the intermediate, the transom housing , steering yolk and drive) basically from the bell housing to the prop so you don't find these slight differences.

If I were restoring a classic with transom glass work I would not cut anything older than a volvo sx ( merc cutout) this gives you the best options . if I were trying to update an existing volvo with no transom work I would go to a 280T with volvo internal power steering just make sure you have room for the trim and power steering pumps.

the benefits of having an original drive will be out weighed by having a modern drive system with trim and power steering.

Parts on the older aq's are getting a little hard to find but still can be found a decent prices on the after market. some parts though are non existant


the 260 is a engine model with 260 horse probably came with a 270 ,280 or 290 drive. The number on the drive was for the max engine HP rating but they take quite a bit more HP than their rating. They are strong reliable drives.

also be aware that they had drive models like the 275 that were strictly for 4 cyls.


Basic Volvo Ownership Info (http://www.lgdonziclassic.net/pdfs/HM200.pdf) can be found On the LGDCC website , this holds true from most of the models with out trim.

SanDogDewey
10-03-2012, 10:35 PM
Thanks Matty! They should sticky that response! I know more about Volvo drives than I ever did now.

Got the rotor and cap replaced tonight. She didn't want to start as the timing was way off after changing out the points. Adjusted the timing and she started right up. It's a little hesitant on the revs, but I'm not expecting much after 13 years of storage. I'll put a new set of spark plug wires on before we try the water again on Saturday.

mattyboy
10-04-2012, 07:59 AM
SDD,

your boat came with a late model aq200,, so did my '67 16 . my 16 was updated for the Original owner by Holman Moody Marine in Cali. to a 250 not a problem. I would think your transom plate will take a 250 or 270 without issue. Just make sure it is a 1.6 v8 ratio there are a lot of 6 cyl and 4 cyl ratio drives out there.

mattyboy
10-04-2012, 02:55 PM
SDD,
BTW you're a better man than I , dealing with points, my old setup in the hornet had them a real PITA. i know you don't want to spend money on stuff until you get an idea how she runs and what she needs. I did the same with mine but a new dist was my first purchase i found this at jegs or summit for like 189 setup with electronic ignition.

SanDogDewey
10-08-2012, 08:02 PM
My Block is C80E-6015A, 8E56

These are my heads.

732527325373254

Think this is the original block? The heads looked like they've been replaced or reworked at one time.

mattyboy
10-08-2012, 08:51 PM
the block number would fit the original block, the heads I don't think so are the numbers the same on both heads?

SanDogDewey
10-08-2012, 09:57 PM
Do you know the HM engine S/N that goes with this boat? What did HM do to these motors for the extra hp?

This one is not running well. Going to check the compression and see how that checks out. If the compression is good, I'll revisit the carb and distributor options. If not, I'm thinking a new short block providing these heads check out.

mattyboy
10-09-2012, 06:24 AM
The HM serial number should be on a silver tag on the bell housing. HM did nothing really to increase the horse power of the ford motors they were just what was available from a small block ford at the time. HM did use a unique cross over cooling system with a crank driven water pump. so when the 271 hp hi-po 289 was out in the auto market HM offered a 271hp marine package. In 1969 HM offered a 290 hp 351w cause that was the motor Ford had on the market after 1971 the 351w dropped to 250 hp so did the HM motor.

I would not overly worry about keeping the motor as original as possible.Most have been updated or R&R'd over their 40 year life. If you are going to re do the motor and want to get more power you might want to reach out to Mario he has done a warmed up Ford and also has gt40 heads for sale. you'll find cost and lack of a reasonably priced high performance exhaust for the small block Ford your hurdle. and you will find that the original log manifolds are hard on the back cyls once you leave the stock HP range.alum center rise are available a little better than the stock but still not real high performance.

many 302 wound up with 351 heads on them , the real casting numbers are on the bottom the way I read your pics is E9D7 which is an 1989 casting.the casting number should be a letter a number then two more letters.

Ford marine long blocks are available at a cost of $1500-2200 for a 225-235 hp range and a turn key 300 hp motor for about $5500 less exhaust. I tried to do the keep it original
thing been there got the t-shirts and had a beer or two but would not go that route again.

here is the link to Mario's ad

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?68025-GT40P-Ford-small-block-heads

mattyboy
10-09-2012, 12:53 PM
As I had mentioned before this motor would be right in the wheelhouse of the change from 289 to 302 the only real way to tell them apart would be the casting numbers from the outside it was impossible. 289s came with 302 parts and 302s came with 289 parts. you will have to look on the bell housing for the tag in some cases it was painted over and also look for the HM part number on the bell housing as well.


in the pics I posted you will see the bell housing from my 289 the HM part number is right under the HM logo on the bell housing which is on the top of the bell housing to the right in that pic you will see the serial number tag and also a pic of it painted over. the last pic is of my head casting my 289/302 was replaced with a 1987 5.0 ho motor hence the E7TE casting number

the records show it has a 289 serial number but it may have been one of the first 302 s HM received and HM hadn't made the change to the 302 serial number range yet the tag should have something like

B8 HM-2371-1-RW-IO
CPM 225 4V MB1
CR 9.3 :1 TIM 12

the block casting indicates a 1968 302 block so I would wager that is the original block.

hope that helps

SanDogDewey
10-10-2012, 11:56 AM
Checked the engine compression last night cold and she's still in the ballpark. So here's what I'm thinking.

1. Get a matching OSCO manifold and riser to complete the set.
2. Replace the Autolite 4100 with a Holley 450.
3. Replace the distributor with pointless ignition.

mattyboy
10-10-2012, 12:02 PM
good places to start

SanDogDewey
10-10-2012, 09:41 PM
Any preferences on Mallory YLM distributors vs. YLU distributors? Will both support the stock tachometer?

BUIZILLA
10-11-2012, 05:51 AM
I *think* the YLM is the marine version...

SanDogDewey
10-11-2012, 11:36 AM
Was looking for an SBF Edelbrock 2121 intake online and Fleabay, most priced it at $165 to $200+. Checked Autozone online and they had it for $101. Pretty good deal if anyone is looking for one.

mattyboy
10-11-2012, 12:07 PM
yes ylm, I looked at the 2121 but wound up using a weiand stealth ( 8020 I think) the edlebrock may be a better choice due to height restrictions in a 16

silverghost
10-11-2012, 05:03 PM
The Mallory YLM is a true marine distributor unit which is ignition proteted & Coast Guard approved.
Ignition protected means it is UL listed for marine closed compartment & explosion proof if gasoline fuel/air is present.
The YLM comes with a blue gasket sealed non-vent hole style marine cap, heavy duty cap clamps, & special spark flash supressor brass screens on the housing's bottom drain holes.
The electronics are also totally sealed .
It WILL work very well with your old stock points stye Tacometer.

SanDogDewey
10-17-2012, 03:35 PM
For those of you that have the "Been there, done that" t-shirt.

1. How well or poorly do the 302 Ford cast center rise exhaust manifolds flow? i.e OSCO FL994

http://www.oscomotors.com/catalog/pdf/osco-pg26-28.pdf

2. Can you fit cast center rise manifolds on a roller 302? If not, will they still work with spacers?

3. Any preferences on half system closed cooling on a 16. Looks like Monitor Products and San Juan Engineering are still making systems. Does anyone have pics of one installed in an early 16 Ski Sporter with Ford 289/302?

http://www.monitorpro.com/
http://www.go2marine.com/category/14160/volvo-penta-freshwater-cooling-kits.html

Appreciate everyone's help here.

mattyboy
10-17-2012, 04:48 PM
if the roller rockers need a taller valve cover you are going to need some kind of spacer. clearance with the oscos and the standard valve covers are tight

the osco flow better than logs but still not high performance barr makes the same center riser in alum same flow but alot lighter. the issue is more where they dump water into the exhaust gases with a more agressive cam which might lead to reversion issues

might want to look at indmar or hi-teks( these might have clearance issues as well) or pay $$$$for custom

most 289 302 16 were raw water cooled adding closed cooling would need some room and the addition of heat exchanger and a circ pump if you have the HM cross over system might need another t stat housing also or some creative plumbing. the cooling system was routed thru the front motor mount on some of the HM motor so you might need to address the motor mounts as well to get the closed cooling to fit

indmar risers (http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13919-small-block-ford-with-aluminum-riser.aspx)

hi-tek risers (http://www.cpperformance.com/c-1456-small-block-ford.aspx)

barr alum (http://www.go2marine.com/product/212606F/barr-center-riser-v8-small-block-ford-aluminum.html)

SanDogDewey
10-18-2012, 10:06 PM
Nice motor pics Matty! If the carb and ignition don't clear things up, I thinking new motor. Just wondering about the exhaust as I was looking a some crate motors with aluminum heads. Nothing too radical, around 350-375 hp. But with possible aluminum heads and now an aluminum intake, I know their life is limited in salt water even with flushing.

My cooling system looks just like yours although not nearly as nice....yet. I was thinking a half system to protect the heads and intake and keep the cast exhaust. Indmar's or Hi-Teks are not in the budget. Thanks for the links!

This just came today. Christmas in October! Just waiting on the carb now.

7341273413

mattyboy
10-19-2012, 06:13 AM
thanks

that's the best part of a project when stuff shows up at your door

yeah in salt if you go for a new motor closed cooling makes sense.

SanDogDewey
11-18-2012, 10:07 AM
My control cable is 11 feet long. Teleflex says to measure the jacket, add 18" and round up to the nearest foot. The jacket on my cable is 10'. Adding 18" would put me in the 12' cable length. Should I just get an 11 footer or go with the 12 footer?

What is the best replacement cable? Teleflex TFXtreme CCX633? Anything better out there? I think the original red jacket cable is CC332.

BUIZILLA
11-18-2012, 07:32 PM
I've been buying the Uflex cables for the last 6-7 years..

SanDogDewey
11-19-2012, 11:24 AM
Thanks for the response Jim!

I've got an 11' Teleflex Morse TFXtreme CCX63311 on order.

SanDogDewey
11-30-2012, 07:01 PM
Got the new Mallory distributor and Holley carb installed.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8200/8232875519_d4d96bfccb.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8489/8232876543_40648bd94e.jpg

Also received a new OSCO exhaust manifold to match the one that had been replaced. The manifold opening looks like 1" NPT and the cooling hose must be 5/8", or should it be 3/4" hose. Must be a 1" NPT male to 1/2" NPT female bushing and a 45 degree 1/2" NPT male - 5/8" hose barb adapter, ya think? This is the one that was in the boat. Anybody source anything better? Maybe in brass.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8232879983_50a9ccca39.jpg

Also ordered a couple of OSCO 3" 80 degree elbows, wet exhaust hose and T-bolt clamps to match the other side. Still waiting for those to deliver.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8057/8233943952_fc1de92e18.jpg

SanDogDewey
12-01-2012, 04:53 PM
Thinking these aluminum fitting aren't the best choice. This one was installed in the manifold that replaced the original HM log. I think I'll go with brass.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8350/8236370298_df9515a881.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8059/8236370768_6f8bbe922f.jpg

The manifold have changed since the replacement was installed. Some of the orfices are permanently sealed and plugs aren't required. Going to send these out for ceramic coating. These things are heavy, but the price was right.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8235304325_fd419938c7.jpg

Morgan's Cloud
12-01-2012, 05:15 PM
Make sure that when you bolt up the risers to the manifold you're meticulous with the gasket interface seal. I had the exact same design Barrs on the old 351 for about 17 years and can't believe I got lucky with not having the raw water leak or weep past the flow passages down into the manifold (and then the cylinders).

It's a terrible weak spot in the design/construction but almost impossible to get away from. I don't think the manufacturers even mention the use of a gasket sealer but it's probably a good idea.

If you're not in fresh water it's even more critical.

SanDogDewey
12-01-2012, 05:39 PM
{Make sure that when you bolt up the risers to the manifold you're meticulous with the gasket interface seal. I had the exact same design Barrs on the old 351 for about 17 years and can't believe I got lucky with not having the raw water leak or weep past the flow passages down into the manifold (and then the cylinders).

It's a terrible weak spot in the design/construction but almost impossible to get away from. I don't think the manufacturers even mention the use of a gasket sealer but it's probably a good idea.

If you're not in fresh water it's even more critical.}

Thanks for the tip! I was also surprised that the mounting kit, which includes the bolts, doesn't contain lock washers.

Still looking for a source or PN for a bronze/brass 90 degree 1" NPT water fitting to ??? 5/8 or 3/4 hose barb???

SanDogDewey
12-10-2012, 07:09 PM
I had a bunch of high temp paint left over from my last motorcycle project so I primered and painted the manifolds. Got them under the heat lamps to cure.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8352/8263098442_d44784a980.jpg

You can see the casting differences between the older and new model OSCO manifolds.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8202/8263098368_692c30ec37.jpg

mattyboy
12-10-2012, 07:28 PM
looks good , i didn't have any luck with my high temp paint , held up great every where else, but the exhaust runners burnt, i probably didn't use the best paint.

SanDogDewey
12-10-2012, 07:47 PM
looks good , i didn't have any luck with my high temp paint , held up great every where else, but the exhaust runners burnt, i probably didn't use the best paint.

What I used will burn on the exhaust runners too as it is only good to 500 degrees.

But this stuff won't provide you cure it correctly:
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/

mattyboy
12-10-2012, 07:52 PM
just a heads up, scared the **** out of me on the shake down run pulled the hatch open to a bilge full of smoke think that was mostly the heavy primer.

again looks good nice progress

SanDogDewey
12-12-2012, 08:59 PM
Make sure that when you bolt up the risers to the manifold you're meticulous with the gasket interface seal. I had the exact same design Barrs on the old 351 for about 17 years and can't believe I got lucky with not having the raw water leak or weep past the flow passages down into the manifold (and then the cylinders).

It's a terrible weak spot in the design/construction but almost impossible to get away from. I don't think the manufacturers even mention the use of a gasket sealer but it's probably a good idea.

If you're not in fresh water it's even more critical.

Got one side bolted up tonight. Directions said to clean off the paint off the gasket surfaces and bolt together without sealer. They recommended red threadlocker and re-torquing after it was warmed up.

Still waiting on another 80 degree elbow, riser gasket and the t-bolt hose clamps.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8070/8267810689_e54e3d4b74.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8496/8268878492_a6197b02de.jpg

I swear I could get a socket on the spark plugs last time I put them in, but not tonight, WTH???

mattyboy
12-13-2012, 04:42 AM
On my 351 and 302 I used a stubby box end or a regular box end that was cut down. Socket never worked. Did you put the plugs in with the exhaust off?

Morgan's Cloud
12-13-2012, 06:51 AM
Directions said to clean off the paint off the gasket surfaces and bolt together without sealer.

Yes, that sounds very familiar . Maybe someone here knows why they don't advise the use of a sealer.

Otherwise , looks like it's coming along very nicely .

SanDogDewey
01-23-2013, 05:22 PM
Finally got her running again today after the new carb, intake and distributor installation. Couldn't get her to idle due to a huge vacuum leak using the original Ford carb spacer on the Edelbrock intake. Put on an aftermarket spacer and she settled right down so I could set the timing and idle. She purrs now.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8043/8408796563_56a59cf4c9.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sandogdewey/8408796563/)

Just received this 270 from another member here. It's in really nice shape. Waiting for a new bellows and water outlet to arrive before putting it on.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8191/8408816287_73248fc3a0.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sandogdewey/8408816287/)
DSC_5660 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/sandogdewey/8408816287/) by

SanDogDewey
01-26-2013, 07:32 PM
My daughter bought me a new buffer for Christmas, so today I tried it out for a little while. Then it started raining.

Before

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8470/8417701265_4f43658157.jpg

After

3M Imperial Comound and Finishing Material
3M Finesse-it II Marine Glaze
3M Ultra Performance Paste Wax

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8228/8417704733_926ebbbd01.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8351/8418795122_2a2f363992.jpg

Its full of cracks and crazes, but not bad for 45 year old gel coat!

SanDogDewey
01-26-2013, 07:37 PM
Can anyone tell me if this is a short or long hub AQ270? Can I mount a Solas 19 on here? (Never mind, Matty got me straightened out on these hubs!)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8184/8418779272_03f11d402a.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8225/8417689483_775520dd14.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8335/8418787068_3a324668b9.jpg

mattyboy
01-27-2013, 09:53 AM
I sent ya the chart for long and short/standard

for paint I have used tempo rattle cans in the past they are now called moeller paints

as you see volvo used different shades of white in different years

there is a white white a bluish white they call grey now and a greenish white the real white and the greenish white were made by tempo but i don't think when moeller took over they still make those shades


and the zinc chromate primer

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/pc/MOE-025472/27000810/Spray+Paints/Moeller+Marine+Zinc+Chromate+Spray+Primer.html

http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?mfgno=025488&pnumber=MO025488&mfg=MOELLER%20MARINE%20PRODUCTS&desc=Volvo%20Penta%20Sterndrive%20Grey%20Spray%20P aint

my drive from last winter my housing and drive were two different colors I'll see if I have any cans left to get a part number on

SanDogDewey
01-30-2013, 04:48 PM
Ran into a slight problem upgrading my outdrive. Looks like the helmet pivot is different. They went from a single bolt pivot pin to a double bolt pivot pin. Searched the forums and found this...


Keep the helmut together with it's drive (or upper housing) and the steering fork together with it's transom shield and it should be all good. The hole/bushing/bolt(s) connection from the helmut to the drive is different between the two types you refer to. I believe there is a third type as well. The connection from the helmut to the steering fork is the same for all that I've seen.

Frank
270 Transom Shield + 200 Drive = No reverse catch.

So it looks like if I get the correct helmet for this drive I will be ok. If you change out your transom shield make sure you get the steering fork too.

I'm sure this is old news for most of you.

SanDogDewey
02-05-2013, 09:12 PM
Got the Solas mounted up and a blank off plate installed this weekend.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8463/8448619091_50f4320b02.jpg

The decals are looking a little rough after 45 years...

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8516/8448616657_3dee5ffd67.jpg

...so I was glad when these came in the mail today.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8467/8448622217_7c0c115f08.jpg

Hopefully it will be warm enough to install them this weekend.

SanDogDewey
02-05-2013, 09:29 PM
I'll never get it back to the original color under the stickers, but she sure is shining up nice.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8491/8449769354_9afbcbfa73.jpg

SanDogDewey
02-16-2013, 07:20 PM
Fired up the boat yesterday and the water pump is leaking bad. Looked through the parts that came with the boat and I found a Jabsco 93000-0090 Seal, 96080-0080 Seal Kit and 1210-001 Impeller Kit.


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8512/8480778344_c3f75ca211.jpg

Took the pump apart and cleaned it up. The pump didn't have a seal installed under the bearing. I'm assuming that is what the black seal on the left in the picture below is for. Should the seal under the bearing be installed with the "U" upwards toward the bearing or down towards the impeller?

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8096/8479691453_0fe335894a.jpg

Does this look right for reassembling the pump?
Install the bearing back into the pump housing.
Install the ceramic seal with the rubber seal inward onto the impeller shaft.
Install and press the carbon seal, with the carbon ring facing the ceramic seal, into the seal bore.
Install the impeller wearplate, impeller and cover.

What does everyone use to seal the cover?

SanDogDewey
02-23-2013, 08:55 PM
Got my transom and outdrive painted today. Cleaned everything up. Scotch Brited all the original paint. Acid etched the bare aluminum parts with AlumPrep 33. Wiped it down with lacquer thinner, primered and shot 'em with paint.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8233/8501381423_5669318726.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8109/8502491930_ef75b71fb0.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8103/8501388631_bdd7e8d5e4.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8233/8501396117_0e29a54133.jpg

Just Say N20
02-23-2013, 09:17 PM
Patrick, wow! You are doing a great job breathing life back into you Ski-Sporter.

Nice trailer plate. :)

Lively-one
02-23-2013, 10:40 PM
Boats looking super Patrick...keep up the momentum and the great work!

SanDogDewey
03-02-2013, 10:26 PM
She goes in for interior on Tuesday!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrC_ZlsHyqo

mattyboy
03-03-2013, 05:18 AM
Yes very nice work. Is there an access hole in the rear set? Looks like you had a good shot of the front of the motor.
I loved my 16 but I don't miss how cramped the bilge was with a SBF

Good luck with the test runs

SanDogDewey
03-03-2013, 02:15 PM
Yes very nice work. Is there an access hole in the rear set? Looks like you had a good shot of the front of the motor.
I loved my 16 but I don't miss how cramped the bilge was with a SBF

Good luck with the test runs

There is an access panel inside the battery box under the rear seat. Works well for getting at the front of the motor. I would have had a heck of a time getting the water pump off without it.

dsparis
03-03-2013, 06:28 PM
Nice work. Boat sounds and looks great.

SanDogDewey
03-05-2013, 07:54 PM
Took a few pics before hooking her up for the trip to the upholstery shop. Got the new stickers from Josh yesterday.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8523/8532052309_64467ecf9b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8377/8532049723_100c18a40e.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/8533157472_d165eea2b5.jpg

maddad
03-05-2013, 08:46 PM
Your boat looks great Patrick. Not to nit pick, but you may consider turning the front gunsight 90 degrees.

duckhunter
03-05-2013, 08:51 PM
Looks great! Gonna be a good summer!

SanDogDewey
03-05-2013, 08:57 PM
Your boat looks great Patrick. Not to nit pick, but you may consider turning the front gunsight 90 degrees.

Then how will I aim it??:propeller:

Conquistador_del_mar
03-05-2013, 10:47 PM
Then how will I aim it??:propeller:

Too funny! That reminds me of a girl I dated back in the 70s who thought the front emblem on a car was there to help keep the car in the center of the lane by aligning the emblem on the right side lane line on the road.
Great looking boat. Bill

72Hornet
03-06-2013, 10:54 PM
Too funny! That reminds me of a girl I dated back in the 70s who thought the front emblem on a car was there to help keep the car in the center of the lane by aligning the emblem on the right side lane line on the road.
Great looking boat. Bill

Looking Good! But then again, I am partial to the yellow!

mattyboy
03-08-2013, 08:43 AM
does look good :yes: there is something special about one brought back to life

with the lift ring that way at exactly 52.3 mph they whistle ;)

SanDogDewey
03-13-2013, 09:04 PM
She's back and I think it turned out pretty nice. They're still working on a matching bimini cover.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8518/8555371651_de5479745e.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8555376183_4dda347a3a.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8105/8556484276_54a7bb7393.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8511/8556489332_ac4fc9212f.jpg

Plan on putting her in the wet stuff on Friday.

dsparis
03-13-2013, 10:14 PM
They did a great job. Looks like they even got the radii correct.

72Hornet
03-14-2013, 05:40 AM
Wow! Looks great! Can't wait to hear how she runs! Enjoy the ride! I just love the Yellow hull with the black stripe! So cool!

SanDogDewey
03-16-2013, 10:25 PM
Well, we got her in the water twice this weekend. For the first real go in 12 years for this boat, she ran pretty well. Broke an alternator belt the first day, but other than that we did ok. The boat didn't like WOT. Not sure if it was when the secondaries kicked in or something else. The tach is all over the place, so it is useless for determining what is going on. Oil pressure sits at 15, no matter what. Tried to find a new sending unit, but couldn't locate anything with a 3/8" fine fitting. Everything in stock had a larger fitting on it. I think I'll hook up a mechanical gauge for now, just so I can see what is going on. Got quite a racket coming from the the bell housing area (I think) when turning close to the left or right lock. The u-joints looked pretty good going in, but I think there's a bearing back there that could be acting up.

Daughter at the helm
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8385/8563056307_fed7b1ca4d.jpg

Our dog seemed to enjoy the ride too!
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8245/8563055675_320e7ce7b6.jpg

Got home today and got it all flushed out and washed down.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8513/8563067943_ef86ec92ca.jpg

So I think the plan this week is to get a working tach and hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

SanDogDewey
03-18-2013, 12:19 PM
Where do you guys set the trim at on an original 302/270 drive. I ran it on the first and second (inboard) holes, but didn't get to try the third (outboard) setting. She runs pretty flat on the first setting.

mattyboy
03-18-2013, 01:55 PM
Where do you guys set the trim at on an original 302/270 drive. I ran it on the first and second (inboard) holes, but didn't get to try the third (outboard) setting. She runs pretty flat on the first setting.
I always found my 16 ran the best in the middle hole it didn't need ANY more bow lift so I never ran in the outer hole
That was with a 351 which was arse heavy so maybe with a 302 the outer hole might be better you need to try it out
I never ran the lower hole it caused the boat to bow steer

olredalert
03-19-2013, 08:42 AM
----Donzi always ran on the second. The third will generally blow out the prop. I used to try all kinds of ways to get the drive halfway in between 2 and 3 back when I was a smarta** kid. I think the prop would hold that amount of lift. Keep in mind that this would have been all with original "as delivered" props from Donzi........Bill S

mattyboy
03-19-2013, 09:18 AM
----Donzi always ran on the second. The third will generally blow out the prop. I used to try all kinds of ways to get the drive halfway in between 2 and 3 back when I was a smarta** kid. I think the prop would hold that amount of lift. Keep in mind that this would have been all with original "as delivered" props from Donzi........Bill S


very true Bill, with the older volvo props the top hole was a white knuckled roller coaster ride. the solas will run no problem in the top hole no blow out no cavitation or ventilation, I just thought with the nuetral trim of the middle hole and a little more wtted surface the boat ran more predictable

SanDogDewey
03-19-2013, 10:09 AM
----Donzi always ran on the second. The third will generally blow out the prop. I used to try all kinds of ways to get the drive halfway in between 2 and 3 back when I was a smarta** kid. I think the prop would hold that amount of lift. Keep in mind that this would have been all with original "as delivered" props from Donzi........Bill S

What do you mean by "blow out the prop"?

jl1962
03-19-2013, 10:16 AM
What do you mean by "blow out the prop"?

Ventilate. Cavitate. Difficult to get on plane.

Try the middle hole.

Conquistador_del_mar
03-19-2013, 12:09 PM
Like Olredalert (Bill) said, I also always wanted to try raising the drive between the second and third out hole, but I never did. If it weren't for the fact that you want the reverse latch to catch when going in reverse you could add a spacer to where the drive rides on the drive pin. A viable way to accomplish setting the drive between the second and third holes would be to drill holes between the second and third holes, but I would make 2 replacement rods (one on each side) to fill the #2 holes to make sure there was enough strength. Stainless roll pins would probably do the trick. Thinking outside the box, Bill

mattyboy
03-19-2013, 06:06 PM
Bill very true the older volvo props didn't like the top hole. the solas won't blow out cavitate or ventilate and will work fine in the top hole but I thought the boat was more predictable in the middle hole

SanDogDewey
03-22-2013, 06:55 PM
My intemediate shaft housing is PN C8HM-4A504-MB-2. Can anyone tell me if it is the one bearing design, where I can replace the PDS bearing without removing the engine.? Or is it the two bearing design where I have to remove the engine?

mattyboy
03-22-2013, 07:47 PM
don't know about replacing without removing the engine may be possible i just don't know

still having issues with the big pdf files on our website but here are two pics I will cross reference for you in the volvo manual if you need me to, looks like one bearing needed and 2 seals

the HM part number you listed is just the housing and it looks like one of each that part of the pic is cut off

26
27
28
31
30
29

Conquistador_del_mar
03-22-2013, 11:18 PM
Since the bearing is installed on the engine side of the intermediate housing, I don't see how you could not remove the engine to change it out. Bill

mattyboy
03-23-2013, 11:33 AM
from the 250 volvo penta parts catalog


parts 59 thru 63

mattyboy
03-27-2013, 10:21 AM
Patrick

check the bottom of the LGDCC resource page we just uploaded a couple more manuals to the Technical manual section some of the VOLVO manuals might help

http://www.lgdonziclassic.com/pages/resources_ps.asp

SanDogDewey
03-27-2013, 10:40 AM
Patrick

check the bottom of the LGDCC resource page we just uploaded a couple more manuals to the Technical manual section some of the VOLVO manuals might help

http://www.lgdonziclassic.com/pages/resources_ps.asp

Thanks Matty! I'll check em out. I've been reading a lot and I know on some drives that you can remove the intermediate seal, shaft and bearing from the transom side. I've got some rumbling going on back there when the steering is at left or right lock. I think it'll be ok this season, but will definitely need some attention this fall.

mattyboy
03-27-2013, 10:55 AM
Thanks Matty! I'll check em out. I've been reading a lot and I know on some drives that you can remove the intermediate seal, shaft and bearing from the transom side. I've got some rumbling going on back there when the steering is at left or right lock. I think it'll be ok this season, but will definitely need some attention this fall.
That is also a sign of the u joints going , do you feel a vibration in the steering wheel when you hear the rumbling?

SanDogDewey
03-28-2013, 05:06 PM
That is also a sign of the u joints going , do you feel a vibration in the steering wheel when you hear the rumbling?

Not really, I checked the u-joints when I hung the drive and they were tight.

Finishing up the trailer bearings this weekend. Bearings were shot and seals were slinging grease. Got the new bearings in hand and picking up seals today from NAPA. Hoping the Speedi-sleeves clean up well. They used them on the inside of the main grease seal.

maddad
03-28-2013, 06:00 PM
On my volvo aq driven boat, between the u-joints and the spring loaded drive plate on the flywheel, at idle it sounds like the world's about to end back there. Especially the last few years with the more lumpy idle. And I know that the u-joints and bearings are in good shape. Once it's in gear or at a faster idle, the sounds of impending disaster go away.

SanDogDewey
03-28-2013, 09:33 PM
My wife did Polynesian dancing for a number of years. Found the artwork online and contacted the artist for rights to use it. A good friend created the decal. Turned out pretty nice.

mattyboy
03-29-2013, 07:52 AM
nice

jl1962
03-29-2013, 08:13 AM
Nice!

Get that boat north of 50 and you'll all be doing the Hula!

Looks great.

SanDogDewey
04-28-2013, 06:16 PM
Got the vibration in the drive figured out. Turns out the PDS bearings were all but gone. Here's what 45 years of boating will do set of bearings that have probably never been serviced.

View from rear of intermediate after the shaft was pulled out. The snap rings couldn't be removed.

75716

Here's a pic from the front side of the intermediate.

75717

On a positive note the flex plate looks to be in good shape.

75718

Going to replace the intermediate and u-joints, service and reseal the outdrive, and replace the oil pump in the engine while we've got it out. Hopefully we'll be good to go for the summer after that.

staarrl
04-30-2013, 05:40 PM
This would really make that 16 move without a crazy high pitch prop. The one I have was resealed before I got it and I never used it.
Let me know if you are interested.
Bob

SanDogDewey
04-30-2013, 05:49 PM
This would really make that 16 move without a crazy high pitch prop. The one I have was resealed before I got it and I never used it.
Let me know if you are interested.
Bob

Thanks Bob, but I've got a really nice 270 that I got from another member here. Just the intermediate is in really bad shape.

staarrl
04-30-2013, 06:29 PM
Sounds like a nice setup. Enjoy!

SanDogDewey
05-15-2013, 08:58 PM
Ran the motor today. Runs and sounds great. It's turned into quite the project, but nothing that hasn't surprised me. She should be a pretty solid runner when we get her back in the water.

Transmission pulled
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7289/8743326298_f036734239.jpg

Engine pull
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/8742209173_ee99c584c1.jpg

I don't think the engine has ever been out of the boat.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7287/8743327086_41e46ba005.jpg

Did a valve job on the heads while the motor was out. These are later model heads.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/8743326554_b39396d2b8.jpg

Coming together
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7287/8743326632_47b71de0c0.jpg

Engine run today
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7286/8743326698_ebe238bf46.jpg

SanDogDewey
05-26-2013, 10:18 AM
Looking for a replacement for the 8-pin engine and dash disconnect connectors used on my 1968 Donzi Ski Sporter. I'm thinking of going to a terminal board. Has anybody come up with a replacement that can be crimped or soldered in?

SanDogDewey
05-26-2013, 11:06 PM
Stainless insert removed
76187
Paint stripper
76188
AlumPrep 33 acid etch
76189
Zinc Chromate Primer
76190

SanDogDewey
05-27-2013, 05:55 PM
Wet sanded the stainless with 400
76195
Wired in the original plug
76196
Really happy with the result.
76197
76198

Just Say N20
05-27-2013, 07:29 PM
It looks great! Seems to be really coming together. Great job on the dash!

You see a bearing like that and wonder how it ran at all! And then totally understand the sounds it was making. And then realize it was probably good the engine "didn't like" wide open, until this was sorted out.

Conquistador_del_mar
05-27-2013, 09:27 PM
It sounds like you are about ready for the season now. Good work on the dash. Isn't it cool how you can get a different look on the stainless by changing the grit of sandpaper? When I designed my new 1971 dash, I played with different grits and I think ended up with 320 going straight back and forth to get it looking the best. Bill

SanDogDewey
05-27-2013, 09:59 PM
It sounds like you are about ready for the season now. Good work on the dash. Isn't it cool how you can get a different look on the stainless by changing the grit of sandpaper? When I designed my new 1971 dash, I played with different grits and I think ended up with 320 going straight back and forth to get it looking the best. Bill


I played around with it too. I went up to 1500 and it was getting to be too much of a mirror for me, so I went back to the 400. Got the idea for the gauges from Bertsboat.

SanDogDewey
05-27-2013, 10:02 PM
It looks great! Seems to be really coming together. Great job on the dash!

You see a bearing like that and wonder how it ran at all! And then totally understand the sounds it was making. And then realize it was probably good the engine "didn't like" wide open, until this was sorted out.

Yep, it could have been ugly, or uglier, if that bearing would have let loose. She sure is nice and quiet now!

mattyboy
05-28-2013, 11:55 AM
Looking for a replacement for the 8-pin engine and dash disconnect connectors used on my 1968 Donzi Ski Sporter. I'm thinking of going to a terminal board. Has anybody come up with a replacement that can be crimped or soldered in?


Patrick,

I know some of the older HM stuff had a molex connector on the dash side and also the engine side. when I re did the harness on the hornet I used a Merc standard harness witha disconnect at the motor and hardwired with ring eye ends on the gauge end. it is attached so if the deck needs to come off all the rigging stays with the deck . it also brings it up to a standard merc color code making it easier if you take it to someone to work on. love the look of the gauges very nice wished they made a marine speedo in that line .

the engine side of the harness is listed below in the dash harness in this link


http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/MAR6118-23

SanDogDewey
05-28-2013, 02:43 PM
Patrick,

I know some of the older HM stuff had a molex connector on the dash side and also the engine side. when I re did the harness on the hornet I used a Merc standard harness witha disconnect at the motor and hardwired with ring eye ends on the gauge end. it is attached so if the deck needs to come off all the rigging stays with the deck . it also brings it up to a standard merc color code making it easier if you take it to someone to work on. love the look of the gauges very nice wished they made a marine speedo in that line .

the engine side of the harness is listed below in the dash harness in this link

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/MAR6118-23

Perfect Matty!

I looked all over for something like this. Those rectangular connectors are just like the ones in my boat. My dash connector was in great shape, so I rewired it to the new instruments. I had to run an extra wire for Tach sensing. I had an extra 8 feet or so of harness looped in the hull that I pull back and wired direct to the engine. Now I can get a couple of connectors and make a disconnect for it.

Thanks you!

SanDogDewey
06-04-2013, 02:19 PM
Here in San Diego, you can pull your boat up to the backside of Humphreys and watch concerts. Took the Donzi out last night to see Jewel. Had a great time and will be seeing quite a few more this summer.

76268

Our dog didn't care too much for Jewel, but she loved barking at all the other dogs in boats and on the dock. I think she's staying home next time.

dsparis
06-04-2013, 03:24 PM
Great picture

wwahl
06-05-2013, 11:52 PM
The sail boat adjacent unfortunately grabbed the name you should have on your boat.

SanDogDewey
07-31-2013, 03:18 PM
Removed my water pump to replace the impeller and coupling spider.

I notice the coupling sits low on the shaft, which doesn't leave much room for the spider. I can't see how a bolt and washer would hold this on. It really can't go anywhere once it is installed, correct?
76800

I shimmed the coupling up a bit with a washer.
76801

Spider now sits on the coupling.
76799

Installed, everything is snug with no leaks.
76797

For reference:

Jabsco Mechanical Seal - 96080-0080
Jabsco Impeller - 1210-0001
Jabsco bearing seal - 93000-0090
Hoover bearing - C5202FF
Lovejoy 11070 Size L-AL 090-095 Solid Type Jaw Coupling Elastomer Spider

mattyboy
08-01-2013, 05:51 AM
nice work!

SanDogDewey
08-03-2013, 05:39 PM
Had the boat out yesterday and after a run across the bay it acted like it was running out of fuel. Got worse and worse until I could only idle back to the loading ramp. I figured it was a fuel pump, since it is the only thing in the fuel system I hadn't replaced. Changed the pump and the boat was still starving for fuel.

I have what appears to be a vintage aircraft C-4 fuel filter in-line with the Racor fuel filter. I had cleaned/replaced both when I first got the boat. I pulled the filter screen out of the C-4 filter and I couldn't believe the amount of dirt inside.

76871
76872

I've only run approx 20 gallons of fuel through this boat since i got it. Must have been a pretty dirty tank sitting there all those years. I had flushed all the original fuel out of the tank when I got the boat too.

Cleaned the filter and changed out the Racor filter cartridge and she fired right up. I like the C-4 filter as it catches the big stuff before it gets to the Rayco. I can't believe it was running at all considering how much material was in there. I could have cleaned the C-4 out on the water if I hadn't been so set on a fuel pump failure.

SanDogDewey
08-05-2013, 11:36 AM
Ran the boat another 2.5 hours yesterday and checked the filter again. Had approx 1.5" of silt in the filter. Should be cleaned out after a few more runs.

SanDogDewey
08-05-2013, 12:17 PM
Is anyone running a Prestolite 8MR2051FA 1-wire alternator. If so, do you know what pulley PN you are running?