View Full Version : Resto Modding a Ski Sporter Hull - Thoughts?

09-14-2012, 12:22 PM
Looking at my 69 Ski Sporter makes me think one thing - Terrible use of space. What are your throughts on resto-modding a ski sporter hull? Having an engineering background, and having been bitten by the car bug a long time ago boats have become my new focus- the idea of modifying a timeless design to function better, run faster, and last longer is quite intriguing.

My thoughts:

- The hull could be made stonger with a few additional boards in the bottom of the hull
- The unfinished fibreglass in the hull should be finished
- the area infront of the driver (ski storage/ ~45 degree footrest) are a terrible use of space. Installing a removeable floor forward of the driver, and possibly either a permanent or removeable floor in the open sections on the right and left hand sides of the lower hull would greatly increase storage space, and possibly hull strength.
- The forward deck section should be reinforced so that one could walk on it without issue
- Delete the forward tow hook in the middle of the deck for aesthetics - Reinforce the front eye so it can be used for towing.
- Possibly move the gas filler from the top of the deck to the side of the boat on the forward 'V' of the hull - less visible and 'car-ish' in nature - No encrochment on the improved forward storage space from floor modifications.
- There would be some issues with tying the removeable deck into the rest of the boat (I understand thats the reason the boat is designed as it is), however, I think if modded properly the deck could be permanently tied into the hull (this thing shouldn't need any work for the next 30+ years if done/maintained properly anyways) or Nut and bolt tie ins could be used so no cutting would ever be involved with removing the deck. The simplest solution would be to have the additional floors as described above permanently tied into the boats hull, keep the deck/floor design otherwise as is for the boat (with the exception being modifying everything forward of the drivers feet, and use a simple stainless steel plate vanity cover at the only visible seam which would be right around the drivers foot.

I'll attach some sketches/photos at some point - just thinking out loud here - Thoughts?

Just Say N20
09-14-2012, 12:59 PM
Welcome. Lots of good and interesting ideas. I'm working from the phone at the moment so no pictures, but many of the things you suggest have been done. Lots to reply to, perhaps later when I can get to a computer.

09-14-2012, 04:27 PM
I have a '67 sporter and I've been thinking about some of the same mods particularly making use of the space under the front deck and stiffening that surface so that I'm not afraid to walk on it. I've also considered dropping some small dry lockers into the top surface of the seating deck so folks would have a place to put cell phones, wallets, etc. and possibly insulating one of them so it could serve as a built in ice chest. The classic appearance would be mantained since the seat cushions would cover the mods but the livability factor would go way up. I actively use the boat to take grandkids skiing so improving functionality while maintaining the classic appearance is important to me.

09-14-2012, 06:16 PM
Reallywantadonzi - I totally forgot to mention wasted space under the seats. Dry storage under the seats would be ideal as well. I also thought that having some sort of firewall between the engine bay and rest of the boat wouldn't be the world's world idea either.

09-15-2012, 11:56 AM
all great ideas, just make sure you have a plan for addt'l weight and distribution of that weight or it could lead to performance and handling issues.

10-09-2012, 06:40 PM
I'm liking the look of the underside of the deck on this boat....clean, simple and strong looking...


10-09-2012, 11:41 PM
That's my '67 Ski Sporter in about 2004 when the tank was expertly replaced by the previous owner. (Thanks Tony!)

Supposedly many '67s had the PVC tubes and no balsa. The boat is a rock and is a real testament to solid construction, proactive maintenance and many, many Benjamins......

10-10-2012, 07:09 AM
just re reading this perhaps the firewall might not be a good idea , the sealed front of the boat will need to be ventilated if not for fumes for mold build up . air gets in there from the foot well then can travel to the back then out. also water and drainage must be accounted for if you turn it into bow rider you would be surprised how much water comes off a wet passenger.

the 67 also had more glass than other years that used coring. the glass was added to make up for the lack of coring so the deck would not flex as much.

you are going to need a jig for both the hull and deck to make sure nothing looses it shape and it will go back together.