engine cuts out

[Fishermanjm]

I took the boat out over this past weekend, it started off good, got up to speed for a mile or two than the engine cut out,,, stalled in gear, i peeled myself off the steering wheel and started to access the situation. She would not fire up right away, seemed to be dragging, like out of time or very hott there was no extreem heat in the engine compartment just normal temp risers ect. and the temp guage was below 180 she fired up after a couple minutes and i started to run back to the ramp area she stalled out three more times more like cut out i got a wiff of burnning rubber the last time and i could hear a sizzelin noise comming from the back of the engine. she started up everytime, overheat activated and low oil activated was the codes in the system. I got the boat home an ran her on the hose for at least half hour no issues what do u guyz think?
jim

[Pismo]

What engine?

[Tidbart]

6.2L?? Bravo or Alpha?


Did you check your lanyard switch and the ignition switch? Run it in your drive and move the wires around, see if anything happens.

Is this MEFI2, fuel injected?

Do you have a scan tool or codemate?

B

[CHACHI]

Are your exhaust hoses burned?

Ken

[John C in PA]

"i got a wiff of burnning rubber the last time and i could hear a sizzelin noise comming from the back of the engine".

Coupler locking up? There's no water load on the prop when running on the hose so the problem may not show up.

John C

[Fishermanjm]

6.2 bravo,,, no burned ex hoses,,, fuel injected,,, and the mercruiser scan tool,,, i wiggled tested the kill switch that seems to be good,,, i will have to check on the injection series i cant remember what the scan tool showed about the MEFI2 or exactly what type it is i will put the scanner on tointe and recheck,,, i was wondering about the coupler on the back of the engine, can that lock up and kill the engine,,, like a tourque converter on a car can but more so at idle

[Tidbart]

I can't think of a way that a coupler would lock up. My experience is that they let go and the motor will continue to work but the drive won't spin. It is just a hub mounted in rubber. Best way to check is under load in the water, though.

I would take down all your readings off the scan tool while it is running and at temp. It may give a clue, or may not. Also, I would clear the codes and let them set themselves again so that you know they are new codes.

Do you have a service manual for the 6.2?

B

[joseph m. hahnl]

check the lower manifold hoses for a rupture. They can spray the plugs and short the ignition. also note that a garden hose has it's own pressure, where as when the leg is in the drink it only has vacume pressure

Do you have the notorious blue engine block drain plugs?


The engine fail safe will most likely kill itself if it senses that over heat or lack of oil pressure will damage the engine

[Fishermanjm]

ok,,,i do have the blue drain cocks and also there is no leak in the blidge at all, i cleared the codes how do i test the coupler? just get on it? i dont have a service manual for my engine i can run the engine in a large container i have done that before and try it agin i want to take it out on the water and re test i just dont want to get stuck,,, safe sea is great but....... there is a small oil leak i can see down by the oil filter hoses its a project to get down in there but i can see small traces of oil in that area on the bottom so i know i have a drip there, not a gusher but it is leaking,

[joseph m. hahnl]

read Post #2 from Ranman about purging and priming the water pump, not sure if it's applicable to yours. Some people have had problems with the ignition switch which seems to fit your description. Check all your connections there. An overheat can come from a hard run with out a cool down.Which could happen from a stall out at speed.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?64735-350-Mag-MPi-overheating&highlight=blue+drain+plug (http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?64735-350-Mag-MPi-overheating&highlight=blue+drain+plug)