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superhatz
08-22-2012, 03:29 PM
I'm getting ready to split the deck on my 1970 18 2+3 and I have a few questions...

-What's this about fiberglass tabs that need to be cut?...where are they?
-Once the boat is split and disassembled, how do I flip the hull over?

Thanks!

Aaron

Scott Pearson
08-22-2012, 04:21 PM
There are tabs on the ski locker on both sides, one on the very front of the locker. Also there are tabs on the sides where the locker meets the tub. Also tabs are in the area where the center storage locker is.

Get a few friends to help flip the hull. Its easy.

gcarter
08-22-2012, 05:05 PM
I haven't flipped a Donzi that small, but a few folks probably can do it easily.
It's always a good idea to bolt in some reinforcement between the gunnels.

superhatz
08-22-2012, 06:10 PM
Cool. Will the hull be okay on boat stands until I can get some 2x4s in for bracing?...or should I put it back on the trailer?

Any problem with pulling the motor after the deck is off?...or should I do it before?

OFFSHORE GINGER
08-22-2012, 06:30 PM
To tell you the truth the boat ( hull ) will be just fine on boat stands considering you are planning on flipping the hull within the next few days or future .which should not distort the hull or shape at this time (unless it is a lengthy period of time ) but to tell you the truth i have flipped 46 Skaters ....adding pads to the bottom with not much support to the hull other then Bulkheads for more then a few weeks ..................

Scott Pearson
08-22-2012, 07:24 PM
If your doing transom work or stringer work you better make a jig.

superhatz
08-22-2012, 07:47 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Okay...don't think so but will do if needed.

Thanks...

Just Say N20
08-22-2012, 08:26 PM
Way easier to remove the engine with the deck off. No down side.

gcarter
08-22-2012, 09:37 PM
Here's a sequence of pics of us turning over the 22' TR;

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?50476-Now-I-m-getting-serious/page20

superhatz
08-22-2012, 09:52 PM
Nice George!...that's the plan now...:)

OFFSHORE GINGER
08-23-2012, 06:38 PM
it sure would be nice to see a quote other then .................or am i missing something ..............................dugh ..?

mattyboy
08-24-2012, 06:45 AM
the 18s i have seen with the transom and stringers removed are basically 24 degree deep vee kiddy pools.

Marlin275
08-24-2012, 11:01 AM
GINGER wrote, "it sure would be nice to see a quote other then .................or am i missing something ..............................dugh ..?"

You are missing the fact that the quote button does not work.

pull start only . . .

maddad
08-24-2012, 02:05 PM
You are missing the fact that the quote button does not work.

pull start only . . .


Push start too...
But the key don't work:D

OFFSHORE GINGER
08-24-2012, 09:13 PM
Marlin / Maddad , seeing that some of us here are paid subscriber's .....i ..............thought we would have that very basic option using something as simple as a quote .....but non the less , i guess we do not .................... and in the future why would i want to bother paying for something that you all ....................can get for free WHICH ACTUALLY AMOUNTS TO NOTHING .....................

superhatz
08-24-2012, 11:26 PM
Okay...back on track....

I think I need to be a lot smaller and or not claustrophobic to get the front lift eye detached and cut the tabs!....wow....my back is jacked up even trying.

BTW:....I should redo the tabs when it goes back together right??

:)

gcarter
08-25-2012, 09:09 AM
The tabs are a poor, cheap solution for tying the tub to the stringers.
They always fail and damage results on most boats from the tub bottom destroying itself by smashing itself to pieces on the stringers.
A much better solution is to bolt aluminum angles to the stringers and bolt the tub bottom onto the angles.
I've done this more than once and the results are excellent.

gcarter
08-25-2012, 09:10 AM
WOW!
This is my 11,000th post!

mattyboy
08-25-2012, 09:29 AM
[ QUOTE=GCarter WOW!
This is my 11,000th post! [ end QUOTE]


post whore :rlol::party: ;) :p


super yes I would put some tabs back, maybe not all but some if you don't you'll need to glue/fuse/ thru bolt the deck, hull and rub rail or it will always shimmy loose, my hull also sounded loose not squeaky but just loose in rough water

superhatz
08-25-2012, 12:15 PM
Cool...I'll put some brackets back in...I want this to be rock-solid again.

Any suggestions for good "deck off" threads?...early 18s??

Thanks!

gcarter
08-25-2012, 07:52 PM
Here's my Minx thread:
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?36703-Break-s-over!

And this is some work I did on Vonkamp's barrelback:
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?49388-vonkamp-s-Barrel-Back-18

OFFSHORE GINGER
08-25-2012, 09:26 PM
George .....your killing me .:tooth:

superhatz
08-26-2012, 12:19 AM
Okay...got all the tabs cut and screws loose. Tried lifting it by hand...it moved a bit...seems a little stuck or probably just heavy.

Will I be able to separate it by hand...with several people? Or am I going to need mechanical things??

Thanks for the help....pics soon.

gcarter
08-26-2012, 06:44 AM
I wouldn't strain a gut trying to do it by hand.
After all, ya need to lift it about 3' to clear the hull.

mattyboy
08-26-2012, 08:17 AM
yeah, a come along or a engine crane will make it easy or 6-8 people. try and get 2x4 under the deck just fwd of the dash and just behind the rear seat
George's threads are always full of great info I seem to recall penbroke lifting his deck for a tank replacement by himself with some ingenious rigging search for that thread as well

superhatz
08-26-2012, 01:41 PM
The ceiling in the shop is really high and I can't get a lift in there to rig pulleys or come-alongs. Don't want to build a frame type rig because I want the deck out of the way to flip the hull over...:/

So...I'm thinking.

:)

maddad
08-26-2012, 01:53 PM
When I took mine off, the boat was sitting on a dolly low to the ground and 5 guys had no problem picking the deck up high enough to lift it out of the hull and over to a pair of saw horses that supported the deck for a few weeks.

gcarter
08-26-2012, 07:17 PM
To change all my smoke detectors, I borrowed a 25' extension ladder.

superhatz
08-26-2012, 09:54 PM
Good one George...I'm scared of heights but that may have to happen.

:)

superhatz
08-26-2012, 09:56 PM
Cutting tabs....:/

yeller
08-26-2012, 11:05 PM
You could lift the deck yourself with an engine hoist.
I had help removing my deck, but I reinstalled it by myself.
It was Lenny's idea to make the 2x6 brace and it worked great. The brace was attached through the lifting ring holes.
I attached the hoist to a 4x4 that I ran through the speaker holes, but it doesn't look as if you have that option, so you could attach the hoist directly to the 2x6 brace (but I'd also run a strap from the dash area to the brace as well)

superhatz
08-27-2012, 03:16 PM
Ahh...cool. I can do that...:)

gcarter
08-27-2012, 07:17 PM
I would guess, judging from your picture, that the boat is still on the trailer.
I would strongly reccomend a set of dollies. It's great being able to stand along side the hull and being able to bend over the side and work in the bottom....and not to mention being able to spin the hull around in its own length.
And it won't lose its shape if it sits on the dollies for a long time w/o the deck.
My TR has been sitting on dollies w/o the deck for 5 years. I just put my deck back on and it dropped right in place.

superhatz
08-27-2012, 08:32 PM
George, it's on stands but I'm probably going to buy some dollies. I have a car bench/jig that I may use when it's upside down but will build braces.

I appreciate your advice..

superhatz
08-27-2012, 11:54 PM
I've been thinking more about what to use on the bottom. I'd like to hear about the durability of paint on the hull where it sits on the trailer bunks. I think the original Awlgrip might be hard enough but how about other paints?

Thanks again,
Aaron

Scott Pearson
08-28-2012, 07:20 AM
My orange boat is 100 % Painted. It sits on bunks and in 12 years I have not had an issue. Its like the day I finished it...perfect.

mattyboy
08-28-2012, 10:02 AM
seeing how the black gel holds up on the chicken boat next to awlcraft black paint. I would not even consider gel on that color combo. the black cig looks like it just left the booth same with Pearson's 18 . the owner of the chicken boat is forever trying to keep the gel looking good.
the cig is on bunks all year either on the lift or the trailer and the paint holds up well.


http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68092&d=1317341203

gcarter
08-28-2012, 10:49 AM
Good paint holds up very well for many years.
I wouldn't even begin to consider again gelling a boat w/o some serious historical significance accompanying it.

I think "provenance" is the word.

superhatz
08-28-2012, 12:46 PM
Thanks guys. I wasn't trying to open up that whole paint/gel debate again. But when I'm researching paint, it seems like there's nothing "officially" used on the bottom except anti-fouling crap.

The longest the boat will sit in the water if for a weekend but then I started to wonder (worry) about trailer wear.

Anyway...no need to beat a dead horse. I'm probably going to use the marine Imron MS600...

:anchor:

Conquistador_del_mar
08-29-2012, 12:52 PM
Aaron,
Even the old Imron paints would hold up perfect on the bottoms unless they were left for 10 days or more in the pond - at that point the paint would start to loosen up and bubble, but if they were taken back out and left to dry they would be fine. Trailer it and you will be fine. My two cents, Bill

superhatz
08-30-2012, 09:32 PM
Yeah...used an air-saw and my 140 pound buddy...:)

It's off. 5 guys and it was a little 'hairy"....will use mechanical objects to re-install....:/

Just Say N20
08-30-2012, 10:37 PM
Nice job. And the result is a "view" too many of us have seen.

But, now the fun begins.

Nice shop, by the way. Looks like a great place to work on the boat.

mattyboy
08-30-2012, 10:48 PM
Looking good, something about old ford blue that just gets to me.

superhatz
08-31-2012, 05:25 PM
Yeah, it's in my "body" shop area...:)

Here's a pic of the hull number written up front at the point...

Scott Pearson
08-31-2012, 06:47 PM
Wow...looks great! I love threads like this. Its so nice to see a boat being torn down and rebuilt from ground up. Keep the pictures coming!

superhatz
09-01-2012, 12:05 AM
Pretty stoked. Hallj and I drilled the stringers tonight and they seem dry. Maybe a little de-lamination but should be able to pump some resin in and clamp them down.

So, the tank and engine come out next. Any advice on removing the tank?

Thanks,
Aaron

Scott Pearson
09-01-2012, 07:14 AM
Removing the tank...Lots of crowbars...a come along...sawsall etc. What ever you can grab that you think might do the MOST damage...:eek:. There is never an easy way. I think Matty has some pictures he can share of us pulling his tank on the 16.

Morgan's Cloud
09-01-2012, 07:34 AM
Here's a pic of the hull number written up front at the point...

Just had to check that pic out ! It's kind of rare (I believe) to see that even though posters often find them and refer to them .

At least I can confirm that mine did NOT have the number written there , or anywhere else that I could find either) as it was still the original flat grey gelcoat all over up there .

mattyboy
09-01-2012, 08:01 AM
yeah that ****ing tank job, only thing i will like on that was all the bull**** we got for not foaming it in and it will fail yaddayadda yadda, well the boat after i sold it was run aground, run up on a dock 2 or 3 blown motors deck seperated from hull, it was beat to **** what didn't fail yes the tank installation.


Aaron use everything in the arsenal, acetone will eat some of the foam also a heavy electric guitar string an E or A on two wooden dowels get it under a corner works as a saw and also a handle to pop up the tank.

the hull number up there is hard to see with out the deck off on my 16 i was up there two or three times to tighten the bolts and never saw it

Aaron post the pic of the top of the tank that is cool I have never seen that before would make a great cocktail table

good luck on the project 18-347 is in good hands

smidgen too
09-01-2012, 08:35 AM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

[Pretty stoked. Hallj and I drilled the stringers tonight and they seem dry. Maybe a little de-lamination but should be able to pump some resin in and clamp them down]
Aaron after seeing the work Jeff did on his Minx :worthy:you have the right person helping you on your 18'.. :beer:

gcarter
09-01-2012, 11:00 AM
Yep, Jeff is a real innovator, and is full of ideas and experience.

Aaron, I think you'll find my threads cover anything you'll need to do if you'll just read through them.

scippy
09-01-2012, 12:06 PM
Aaron,

I agree with George about the convenience of boat dolly's.....They'll make you work so much easier. When she's low slung & on dolly's you
can almost step into the 18.........I have a pair under the magnum. I roll it in and out as needed. your 18 would glide across the shop floor.
How long has the boat been sitting?......curious what an 42 yr old fuel tank looks like..........Good luck!

superhatz
09-01-2012, 01:30 PM
Just started reading the Testarossa thread George...:)

I'll post more pics tonight when I get to the shop. The weather is perfect and I may throw the Magnum in for a ride....:party:

superhatz
09-01-2012, 06:43 PM
Original tank and Holman Moody stuff....sweet.

:propeller:

superhatz
09-03-2012, 05:48 PM
Ready to wet sand and buff the deck...should clean up nice.

:umbrella:

scippy
09-04-2012, 12:10 AM
Hello Dolly(s) !!!

superhatz
09-22-2012, 08:18 PM
Got the tank out...only took about a half hour. Sweet.

gcarter
09-23-2012, 06:52 AM
Well done!

mattyboy
09-23-2012, 08:08 AM
Aaron

hard to tell from the pics what is the tank made of is it a terne steel tank or alum? I seem to recall that in 71 or 72 they outlawed steel tanks

looks good you're better than half way home now :)

Just Say N20
09-23-2012, 10:36 AM
Just had to check that pic out ! It's kind of rare (I believe) to see that even though posters often find them and refer to them .

At least I can confirm that mine did NOT have the number written there , or anywhere else that I could find either) as it was still the original flat grey gelcoat all over up there .


It is possible that yours was marked, but not visible. When I got my hull apart (1967 Ski-Sporter, built in April 1967, C16-409), I didn't see anything on the bow chock. But as I continued taking things apart, I found at some point someone put another layer of wood and fiberglass over the original piece. When I got that off, it revealed the original wood with the marker written C16-409. It was faded, because the wood was partially rotten, which is probably why it was added too.

I also found the hull number behind the dash, but that was virtually useless because drilling for gauges had "removed" parts of the information.

Morgan's Cloud
09-23-2012, 11:00 AM
Bill , how you found what you did makes perfect sense and it's great to see the proof in the pics !

Two points though ... Why would they have put a number on the block and then covered it with the grey bilge finish ?

Secondly .. even though mine was also the original grey finish as well inside , on the St T the bow eye is mounted right smack up against a small glassed in V shaped mini bulkhead where the bow lifting eye threaded rod is bolted to.
Assuming that the bulkhead is installed while the boat is still in the mold it would take a contortionist with a very strange pen to write a number on the block.

superhatz
09-23-2012, 11:50 AM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Matty...it's steel and in pretty good shape. Why did they outlaw steel?

For some reason, I'm leery of using an aluminum tank...I think I'd rather have steel. Am I crazy?

mattyboy
09-23-2012, 03:13 PM
Aaron the best thing to do is talk to your tank mfg'r they need to put a label and confirm that the tank is uscg compliant. you also have to install it as the mfg'r instructs if you don't that takes them off the hook and puts you on it. so they can tell you what they can and can't make a tank out of.

federal law 183.512

http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/boatbuilder_s_handbook/fuel_standards_parta.aspx

superhatz
09-23-2012, 09:48 PM
Dug the foam out and pulled the engine...

superhatz
09-23-2012, 09:57 PM
I keep thinking about how I'm going to get those tabs back in there...does it suk bad?...really bad?

superhatz
09-25-2012, 09:55 PM
And now the work begins.

superhatz
09-25-2012, 09:56 PM
Oh...and I've decided to re-gelcoat!!....:wavey:

JimG
10-01-2012, 04:22 PM
Wow! Good job!

gcarter
10-01-2012, 04:30 PM
"Oh...and I've decided to re-gelcoat!!....:wavey: "


Uh...................no comment.

superhatz
10-01-2012, 05:08 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

:)

I have a few reasons George...but I've decided the Duratec is an interesting option.

Stand by for serious comedy.

:nilly:

silverghost
10-01-2012, 06:32 PM
There was some talk here earlier by Matty about terne plate steel fuel tanks not being allowed by the Coat Guard.

Are welded-up Stainless Steel tanks OK ?

Years ago we owned and totally restored several Hacker, Garwood & Chris~Carft mahogany runabout Antique speedboats that had original Monel alloy brazed joint fuel tanks.
My Buddy's 1957 Riva Super-Tritone also had Monel fuel tanks.
Monel sheet is very costly, & almost impossible, to find today.
These early Monel metal alloy tanks last forever !

We have to find a way to get a tank manufacturer to build new cross-linked Poly plastic tanks for all our Donzi 16s & 18s.

superhatz
10-01-2012, 09:41 PM
She's cherry boys...mint...primo.

:spongebob:

scippy
10-02-2012, 12:45 AM
Far better than one would expect for a 42 yr. old boat.......half-a-cherry!

mattyboy
10-02-2012, 05:21 AM
ain't no turning back now.

looks like she may have been ridden hard and put away wet once or twice in those 42 yrs. she'll be better than new shortly.

nice progress !

Scott Pearson
10-02-2012, 09:11 AM
You cant use stainless with Gas. Big Boom!!!!!!:(

superhatz
10-07-2012, 12:33 AM
Got the rotten transom cut out. Will put the boat on the trailer and cut the stringers and bulkheads out next.

superhatz
10-19-2012, 05:39 PM
More pics. I got the hull back on the trailer. It's custom made for an 18 Donzi, so it'll work well as a "jig" when I cut the stringers and bulkheads out this weekend.

The deck is staying original gel and has been wet sanded to 600 so far...it's in pretty good shape and should look great when done.

Another photo of the $500 worth of fiberglass stuff I bought. There's a local distributor that was very helpful and will supply the Duratec and gelcoat when I'm ready. HallJ will be helping with stringers and transom...he's got some experience and quite a bit of knowledge...:)

superhatz
10-20-2012, 05:59 PM
Stringers and bulkheads cut out...that sucked.

:kyle:

superhatz
10-21-2012, 04:59 PM
Transom progress...:)

Cut the new stringers too...

superhatz
10-21-2012, 07:04 PM
Yeah, Cabosil and Adtech 820 laminating epoxy. Hadn't planned on cutting the rest of the glass...will bond with vinyl ester resin. I feel like I'm getting good advice from my friend and the supplier.

Maybe I won't post any more...I've always avoided 'build threads" on internet forums for this very reason.

superhatz
10-21-2012, 07:36 PM
That said, I appreciate your advice, I'm just trying not to over think things...I'd never get it done.

I'm sanding the existing glass with 24 grit discs...there should be plenty of mechanical adhesion too.

scippy
10-21-2012, 10:19 PM
You'll be fine!........looks great!

silverghost
10-22-2012, 01:52 AM
Do not stop posting photos & text updates of your retoration progress.
I , and am sure many other forum members & readers, are very interested in seeing these sort of restoration threads and posts.

I was invovled in the exact same rotted stringer & transom wood re-core job on my benchseat 18 just this past summer.

It looks like you have the job well in hand.

Just Say N20
10-22-2012, 05:54 AM
Looks great, and Iím impressed by how clean your working area is.

I did the same thing when I replaced my stringers. I left the inner section of fiberglass, and laminated new marine plywood too it. I used West System Epoxy for everything, and it is solid as a rock.

It is looking great!

mattyboy
10-22-2012, 06:45 AM
Aaron

one thing for sure it is great when someone takes the time to take and post pictures and detail their project! it is the backbone of this forum and helps so many members with the care and maint of their classic.

today there are more options and methods due to new materials and knowledge gained from time with older methods
.

of course the differences have supporters and detractors but you have to be able to read thru that and let some of the bullsheet fall by the wayside.you need to find the right methods that will work for you and your project.

you now have more time and thought than was put into that boat than the guy who built it.
Do you think the guy who built it thought it would be around 40+ years later?

I am positive that when you get thru with it it will last way more than 40 yrs

keep up the good work and keep the pics coming :)

HallJ
10-22-2012, 12:02 PM
Aaron,

Leaving the outer stringer skin in place then bonding the wood to it while glassing up and over to the side of the stringer skin is superior to cutting the whole thing out. Why? This method will put one of the secondary bonds in shear and one in peal.
Given the same surface area, a bond put in shear is stronger than one in peal. If you were to cut the whole thing out and and glass over the stringer, both secondary bonds would be in peal and therefore not as strong. That's a fact no religion or politics involved.

Jeff

Bobby D
10-22-2012, 12:59 PM
+1 You do very nice work and keep the pictures coming, I enjoy reading and seeing what members are doing with their boats and your project looks great.

superhatz
10-22-2012, 01:35 PM
Thanks guys. I just get wound up because it's very easy for me to second guess myself on stuff I've never done before. Fixx has a lot of experience and I have to respect that...have to.

That said...Hallj did tests before he did his Donzi and the wood came apart before the bond...

Matty said it well too. When I get done, this boat will be better than it ever was from Donzi. I restore old Porsches and my customers always ask when doing a ground up resto, 'Will it rust again?'...my response is that the car has more and better paint (chemicals) on it than when it left the factory. Plus you won't be driving it the way they were back when nobody gave a $hit about these things...

Anyway...back to fixing this pile.

:crossfing:

Scott Pearson
10-22-2012, 03:04 PM
Dont worry about all the "Experts" ....:superman:....Keep the pictures coming! Love these posts on restorations.

superhatz
11-14-2012, 03:21 PM
Jeff and I got the lower transom honeycomb put in last night...progress! Hopefully, we'll glass the transom this weekend.

:)

F430
11-14-2012, 05:21 PM
Whoa.... I've been involved in a few auto restorations.... But I have to say, this resto is different than anything I've been involved with!
VERY VERY Impressive.... Great Pics!!
Now I know what my boat looks like TOTALLY apart... Thanks

Morgan's Cloud
11-14-2012, 06:22 PM
It's not uncommon for me to ask questions about people's restos but I make a point of never giving advice or asking 'why don't you do such and such ?'
But I'll bend my rule a little here , with caution ...

Taking advice from some very good glass guys , when I redid my transom it involved completely sealing up the inner and outer and recutting from scratch.

Two slugs were cut and shaped from three quarter inch ply but before they were glassed together and installed similar to yours they were given multiple coats of resin which were allowed to fire off and get re-sanded before any glassing in place happened.
If you don't do this first , when you go to glass over everything the new dry wood soaks in all the resin , drawing it out of the cloth and you end up with a poor bond of the new cloth to the new wood transom slug.
It takes longer but you know what they say . lol

superhatz
11-15-2012, 12:28 AM
Yeah, I'm pretty sure that's the plan...thanks for the advice.

Aaron

superhatz
11-15-2012, 12:39 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

F430...cars are harder...:)

superhatz
11-18-2012, 12:14 PM
Got the transom glassed in last night. Using vinyl ester resin and 2 layers of 1708 and then a layer of some thin stuff that looks like the original.

Starting on the stringers next.....:boat:

Conquistador_del_mar
11-18-2012, 12:19 PM
Aaron,
Looking good - :wink:. Do you think it will be ready by Spring? Bill

superhatz
11-18-2012, 12:23 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Wow!...that's pretty optimistic Bill...:)

Ghost
11-18-2012, 12:24 PM
LOL, c'mon, up there it's about 8 months away...

superhatz
11-18-2012, 12:59 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Good point....:stan:

HallJ
11-19-2012, 01:51 PM
Put down your coffee and use both hands Hipster!

Jeff

superhatz
11-19-2012, 06:56 PM
Rotate that mofo..I almost spilled my coffee looking at it.

:kyle:

superhatz
11-26-2012, 03:26 PM
More progress thanks to Hallj. Got the new stringers bonded to the old outer glass. I first sanded both sides with 36 grit. then soaked with vinyl ester resin. Then mixed resin, Cabosil and milled fiber for a thick paste to bond with. Once again, destructive testing was done and this works very well...

The old stringers were 13ft long and made of dimensional lumber, not marine plywood. I bought expensive marine plywood and Jeff had some slightly cheaper marine plywood left over from his project...we used both. Anyway, I made the mistake of using the old stringer as a template and the new pieces were a little short, top to bottom. Donzi had some pretty big voids under the original stringers...

So, the new stringers are two pieces cut diagonally and a little short (top to bottom) but we filled in the void with some 'slivers' of plywood and the rest of the void will be or was filled with resin, mixed with Cabosil, milled fiber and strand...making a very strong filler and glue.

Anyway...once glassed in with 3 layers of 1708, it should be nice and tight...way stronger than original...

Got the transom finished too...

mattyboy
11-26-2012, 07:41 PM
Nice progress !

superhatz
12-26-2012, 05:33 PM
Got the port side stringer glassed in a couple weeks ago. Will try and do the other this weekend.

:crossfing:

smidgen too
12-26-2012, 06:21 PM
[More progress thanks to Hallj] :beer: Aaron you can have Jeff for one more month then I need him here in Michigan.:bonk: Jeff needs to be chained to my work bench so he & I can finish my Volvo drives for the Magnum this winter. :nilly:

superhatz
12-26-2012, 06:34 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Ha!...that's fine Mark. Once the glass work is done, he's all yours! Although, I think he's got his own boat to play with...:nilly:

:lame2:

superhatz
01-14-2013, 04:17 PM
Stringers are pretty much done. Also ground down most of the bilge floor and re-glassed. It had cracks in the gel and I wanted to check the wood for rot...

Bulkheads next....:banghead:

mattyboy
01-14-2013, 04:33 PM
keep up the good work,making nice progress!, Thanks for the pics :yes:

Lively-one
01-14-2013, 09:31 PM
Just read/viewed thread from beginning to end...enjoying this resto Superhatz, nicely done. Keep up the good work!

superhatz
01-14-2013, 09:58 PM
Thanks!...I'm enjoying it too. I wish I had a little more time and money but oh well....

Aaron

superhatz
02-04-2013, 05:23 PM
Bulkheads in...:party:

scippy
02-04-2013, 11:51 PM
Nice job Aaron!.....Are you going bigger fuel tank?

superhatz
02-05-2013, 12:14 AM
Hate to admit it...I'm not going to do a bigger tank. I'll just have a new one made. I'll never sell the boat and don't really need any more fuel on my lake. The engine will remain stock too...*shrug*

jl1962
02-05-2013, 06:18 AM
Stock is good!

I get almost 4 hours/tank on my 302 - Ski Sporter. I really don't wish the tank were bigger and at least the gas is less likely to get stale in the tank. If I boated somewhere remote without a lot of fueling options, I might feel differently.....

Love these threads!

:)

superhatz
08-29-2013, 04:37 PM
A little update. I've had too much work at my Porsche repair and restoration shop to work on my own stuff...Donzi included...:(

And I decided to move the boat work home to my own garage and keep the cars at my shop...a separation of chruch and state if you will.

My garage at home is great but not really finished. So I decided to spend any free time and or money to get the garage set up for boat work this winter...:stan:

So...I'll keep you guys posted. I'm installing an I-beam and trolly hoist to flip the hull and eventually lower the deck back on...should be sweet!

Aaron

superhatz
09-27-2014, 01:19 PM
A year later and my garage at home is almost ready for winter and work on the Donzi....just need time and money. :nilly:

superhatz
04-20-2017, 10:43 AM
Update time! Slow going for sure but I'm feeling good and about to flip the hull for refinishing. hallJ helped quite a bit...he's a good friend. The hull flip will involve more buddies and pizza....:pizza:

yeller
04-27-2017, 11:59 AM
Almost 3yrs since last update on this project.
So relieved to see there is someone even slower than me......:cistineb: :biggrin.:

Good to see you're back at it.

superhatz
04-27-2017, 03:05 PM
Almost 3yrs since last update on this project.
So relieved to see there is someone even slower than me......:cistineb: :biggrin.:

Good to see you're back at it.

Ha!...yep, like molasses! :boat: