View Full Version : Eaton Interceptor 165

08-16-2012, 03:20 PM
Hi all.
New to the forum and appreciate any and all help here.

I have an Eaton Interceptor 165 mated with a Ford 260.
The setup works however the prop shaft seal is bad and I dont know how to replace it.
Any ideas?
Also, how difficult would a swap out be? It it possible to swap outdrives without major cutting?

Whatever help would be much apreciated.

08-16-2012, 04:49 PM
they mated the 260 ci 165 hp interceptor to an eaton drive the one that spins up to trailer and they also had this setup with a volvo aq 200 with an eaton badge on it.

if this is a real spin up eaton your options are repair what you have or re-glass and replace. if it is a volvo aq 200 with a eaton name tag you can pretty much go all the way to a 280t and a chevy sb without re-glassing.

so what model eaton is it? post pics it will help

08-16-2012, 05:03 PM
It is the Eaton that spins 180 degrees.

I would like to keep original, but I would also like to use the boat

How do I fix. In searching the threads Merrysville Marine came up, but they have nothing.7269972700

08-16-2012, 05:20 PM
tough decision between reliability and originality .

here something that might help


keep an eye on ebay there was an eaton outdrive complete a few weeks back

08-16-2012, 05:33 PM
Thanks for the replies.
Would it be a giant mess to put in another drive?

08-16-2012, 06:34 PM
What if I bought a donor boat with a rebuilt 350 mated to a volvo 280.
What kind of work would be involved?
My buddies 76 X-18 has the 280 and it goes great

08-16-2012, 07:06 PM
I think you areTalking about re glassing and cutting a new hole for anything but a spin up eaton you'll have to measure the cut out. If your in for a penny in for a pound might as well go newer Volvo or Merc if your glassing and cutting a new hole

08-16-2012, 07:43 PM
Won't I only be reglassing if the original hole is bigger than the Volvo?

Sorry for the ignorance. I have never dealt with I/O's. Only direct drives and VDrives.

08-16-2012, 09:34 PM
The eaton cutout is round the Volvo is more like a baseball diamond. I seem to recall the eaton is wider at certain points then the Volvo I can take some measurements off my Volvo if you need

08-16-2012, 10:21 PM
You may want to look into a Volvo 290. Its shield is big enough to cover a OMC stringer drive hole.:embarasse

08-16-2012, 11:16 PM
here are the cutouts except for the eaton

08-17-2012, 07:29 AM
I have a complete Volvo 280 with prop that came off an 18 classic and is ready to bolt on if you decide to go that route. With tilt motor and bellhousing and Y pipe (or cover plate) and if you need those. Just throwing it out there!

08-17-2012, 11:30 AM
Is there a chance anyone has measurements on the 280 and 290 cutout?

08-17-2012, 03:04 PM
Back in the 1970's I replaced the eaton drive with a Volvo 280. I never had to glass over the hole. I did have to raise the transom plate a little and do a little cutting but it worked out just fine. Lay the tramsom plate template over the existing round hole and find the best location for the hole to be covered. There may be a couple spots slightly ouside the normal cut lines but still within the gasket area. You would also have to replace the bell housing (be carefull to get the matching number of bolt holes) and get the intermediate housing that adapts to the Volvo transom plate. I can't remember whether the damper shield has the right spline or not so you may have to find one of those too. Most of these items can be found at places that sell used engine and drive parts. Hope that helps

08-17-2012, 03:40 PM
Well, with having a possible donor boat setup, I would go for a total swap from a 260 mated with an Eaton to a rebuilt 350 mated with a Volvo280.
Sounds easiest to me if I don't have to reglass. I do not want to do that if i don't have to.

08-17-2012, 03:59 PM
Boatnuts what boat did you do this on??? where did the engine wind up higher lower same spot?

Gerk remember you are doing a hole power train change out the 350 is going to sit higher than a 260 and just placing the transom plate over the existing hole so it covers the best is kind of a hap-hazard way of choosing the X-dimesion . a normal 280 350 in a 16 is tight if the motor is up any it may cause clearance problems for the flame arrestor and risers with the hatch. the other side would be that the X is too low the stock volvo X was low to start with hurting performance and ride.

just some input to help you avoid the facepalm

08-17-2012, 04:16 PM
Thank you for your input. I don't know what I should do.
I should have clarified more. Its going into a formula Jr which I am sure is very similar with a sweet 16.
As I said, I/O's are new to me and I am learning. I am not looking to do 60MPH. I just want a compatable setup with the least amount of headache.

08-17-2012, 04:22 PM
a formula jr is a different shape than a 16 similar yes, no easy answers here, but if reliabilty is your key getting to a 280 or higher is your best bet.

08-17-2012, 06:17 PM
Why not look for a new prop shaft seal ?

If you take the outdrive's old lower gearcase shaft seal & gearcase cap to a bearing supply house they can usually supply you with a new standard lip style shaft seal.
Ask for a Stainless Steel mounted shaft seal.

I suspect an off the shelf saft seal will fit your old Eaton outdrve easily..
A good bearing supply house like Bearings Inc. should be able to fix you up with a usable shaft seal..

08-17-2012, 06:22 PM
If thats the truth, I'd gladly do that. Ive shown it to mechanic and that option never came up. Obviously the option came to looking around for Eaton parts, but I am unable to track any down. That would be my first option before ripping the boat apart.

08-17-2012, 07:36 PM
Gerk , at this point in time ..........are you really sure you want to go that route , and with that being said why not go with something a little more up to date considering my uncle once built and made parts for Eaton outdrives many years ago in Saginaw Mich which actually are ( today ) hard to find parts which eventually will get even harder to come by.............. as the years pass .

08-17-2012, 08:44 PM
I would love to get through the season with what is there now and then make the decision this winter. Boating season at Tahoe is mid May-end of September. I will have time. If the seal is not able to be fixed, then my decision is an obvious one.
Is there a chance that some offbeat shaft seal will work?

Thanks everyone for chiming in. I really appreciate it.
This winter will be a lot of work as I have 2 Formula Jrs to restore

08-18-2012, 12:57 PM
An off the shelf generic shaft seal may not look exactly like the original Eaton seal.
But if the generic seal's outside diameter fits the lower unit's gearcase cap~~~and the seal's shaft center fits & grips the prop output shaft you have got the problem covered.
There really is not any real oil/lube pressure here to deal with in this

If you need any other internal parts for the old Eaton outdrive (ie: gears, shafts, clutches, etc) you have a real tough problem.
But~ bearings, & seals, are really not much of a problem today.
Good Luck.

Post some photos of your two Formula Jr. s ~~~
We would all like to see them !

08-19-2012, 01:26 AM
To be honest I wouldn't do a damn thing unless I was going to do a Volvo 280T transom shield and a 270 outdrive unless you are doing exhaust through the drive then a 280 drive would work.

08-19-2012, 06:01 PM
To be honest, I may try to fix what is there for now. I pick up my new Formula Jr soon and it has a Volvo setup. I will compare the 2 and go from there.

If I am able to fix the Eaton for now, does anyone know where the oil fill location is?

08-19-2012, 06:36 PM
Try these guys http://www.marysvillemarine.com/products_dia.asp

08-20-2012, 04:03 PM
My best recollection is that the motor moved slightly forward and slightly up.
In so far as the "X" dimension, it came out perfect with the outside corners of the cavitation plate on the same plane as the hull bottom directly ahead.
Also, there were no clearance issues whatsoever, even when I upgraded a few years later to a 302 with a Torker high rise manifold.

08-20-2012, 04:53 PM
that is great info thanks

08-21-2012, 04:40 PM
I forgot to mention that back then I never even removed the engine. The old Volvo transoms and intermediate housings pretty much aligned themselves and with the gentle use of 2 x 4's under the engine I was able to manouvre it around and the exterior ring bolts pulled it nicely into position.

Ralph Savarese
08-22-2012, 09:02 AM
I made the swap the best improvement i ever did next to hydraulic steering!
You will have to fill the three mount holes on each side. The eaton mounts on two triangular mounts inside the transom with 3 bolts through each side the volvo does not. That will be all the filling needed the rest cutting. I have a Ford V8 to volvo Bell housing if you are interested? I ran 302 Fords for many years before going to chevy . I started out with the original 165 ford same as your set up back in 66 when my dad bought the boat new.
I also have a new bydirectional shift spool for that eaton if you would like . Common wear item on those. My choice would be to get away from those sheer pins and go to the volvo. I beat the crap out of my volvo it is a 1974 drive never been apart! (Try that with a Merc.) Just last year put a 280 foot on it only because i had a problem with the thread on the end of the propeller shaft.
You can use OMC pin props on the eatons they fit as another option.
Good luck any questions let me know

08-26-2012, 12:53 PM
Looks like Napa carries the Shaft seal, so I will fix what is there for now.
Thanks everyone for your input.

Next question for all of you that knows anything about these drives.
Does anyone know where the Gear Oil fill is? I can't seem to find anywhere to fill it with oil.

Ralph Savarese
08-26-2012, 09:47 PM
the oil and dipstick is that rather large Plastic straight blade screw on the drivers side toward the top cant miss it fill it through there
I can see it in both your pictures

08-27-2012, 10:52 AM
That is what I thought but I wanted to be totally sure.
Without knowledge of these drives or literature I had to ask.

Thanks a lot. I really appreciate it.