View Full Version : replacement rub rail suppliers?

81 18 jack
02-11-2012, 08:09 PM
hey folks,any suggestions for suppliers of rub rail replacement on a 81 18 classic ? $$ ??

02-11-2012, 08:49 PM
You can find the Taco replacement rubrail online, but the long sticks will eat your lunch on shipping. I got mine thru Coast Marine shipped to a West Marine store that they are aligned with. You might check at a West Marine store to see if they could get them in for you. You will want to check the stick ends for abuse no matter where you get them. Good luck. Bill

81 18 jack
02-12-2012, 02:59 AM
thank you bill, i appreciate your suggestions.anything for windshield additions?
jack a

02-12-2012, 07:19 AM
Hi Jack;
On a couple of my Donzis. I had the original rails powdercoated;
Not only does this save you the frustration of trying to find pieces of rsil in the proper lengths, but also saves on shipping. The powdercoat lasts just about for ever which you can't say about the finish on new rail. You can even try a contrasting color.

02-12-2012, 10:44 PM
This is great information and interesting timing you guys as I have been having a heck of a time finding someone to either fabricate a rubrail for me or simply re-machine mine. Apparently this is now very simple. I am currently talking to people over an hour away to see if they can fill/grind out and polish marks on the rubrail. There are many rail types out there but I want mine to be exact and there is a small lip on the back of the aluminum rail that latches over the seem between your deck and hull.

When you say "taco" rail, is it an exact match conquistador?

I am thinking that i may have to powdercoat as George mentioned he did on his. Doing this, though, i am not sure if I can match the same color it is now.

02-13-2012, 12:33 AM
Yes, Taco makes the J style aluminum rubrails. You can find a match here and then a supplier is up to your research. Bill


02-13-2012, 07:44 AM
In the end, you have to decide what is good.
Taco was the original supplier. The new rail isn't finished and tarnishes/ages very quickly. If you wish, you can add a new section and it will quickly age to match the old rail....probably w/in 6 months.
OTOH, you can sand/file any high spots on the old rail, you'll find powdercoating the rail will fill most any scratches that exist.
On the Minx, I used a contrasting color, but on the TR, I picked a color that comes close to the "platinum" used in the dash and other places.
Having done this before, I can tell you powdercoating holds up much better and is much more consistant over time than raw aluminum.

81 18 jack
02-16-2012, 11:41 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]
thank you george! jack

81 18 jack
02-16-2012, 11:42 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]
thank you bill ! jack

04-17-2012, 08:22 AM
Alan will fix you up. He knows his rails. Just call the number on his web site. IHe is a interesting gut to chat with. Had all kinfd of boats in his life. Grew up in Alex Bay New York. askl him about it.

04-19-2012, 04:16 PM
I have few lengths of the "J" mold that was used on the claasic series.
I am in the Toronto Ontario area

04-25-2012, 01:09 PM
PM sent.

Bobby D
04-29-2012, 07:14 AM
I asked for some help identifying what type of Taco rail I needed for the Donzi here is what I got back:

The holes will not line up from the past, but this is IT...
Rub rail kit from Taco is # A11-0151TAL12D. 3/4" is what you want for the 16/18. It is polished aluminum, with clear anodize. #8 screws. TAL6-1 is the 6' length. The above-mentioned one is in 12' lengths. You need four 12 footers to do the job.

It is the hole spacing that is different! A good trick is to hold up the new section of rail pencil mark the new holes positions. Then counter sink and install screws in in every hole you cannot use, this will be quite a few! No matter how hard you try some will be on top of old ones or right next to them. On those fill the holes with hard wood splints dipped in Epoxy, this will support the glass on close ones or give you something to screw into if it is half a hole! Drill all new holes, you will end up with a more secure hull to deck joint. Put a tiny dab of silicone in each and every hole this will seal and lubricate them, when done run a bead all along the bottom edge that will keep things dry.