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gero1
12-10-2011, 11:05 AM
the trailer has brand new tires on it, firestone car tires. i plan on doing some traveling this summer. would you buy new trailer tires or run the car tires??

yeller
12-10-2011, 01:55 PM
I never had "trailer" tires on my 16's trailer all the years I had it. I ran automotive tires and never had an issue. The 16 wasn't an overly heavy boat, so I doubt I exeeded the load rating of the auto tires by much. I'm not recommending anyone use automotive tires for their trailer. This can be a safety issue. I'm just relaying what I used when I was younger.

My 22 has "trailer" tires on it.

Odd thing is, in all my life, the only tire I ever had that "blew" and shredded right off the rim was one of my trailer tires.

RockyS18
12-10-2011, 02:47 PM
What size boat do you have? And how many axles on the trailer?

PMZONER
12-10-2011, 03:20 PM
I have a bit of a tire background, Bridgestone/Firestone. The manufacturers and the insurance companies want you to think you have to run trailer tires on a trailer. They are in fact built to a different set of specs than a "car" tire. Stiffer side wall, more load capability than the same size car tire. If you look up the load cap of say a set of Goodyear Marathons they can carry more than a set of 14inch car tires. OK all that said, If the load (boat and trailer) do not exceed the combined load rating of the tires you have you will probably be fine. If the set is for a light truck even better. Tire manufacturers are sensitive to liability issues so none of them will advocate this practice! A set of light truck tires for a 5000lb truck can hall a 3500lb boat. nuff said.:checkered:

Jraysray
12-10-2011, 03:53 PM
Or just wait, im sure he will jump in.

f_inscreenname
12-10-2011, 11:42 PM
Like PMZONER said, it’s a side wall issue. If the sidewalls are to light the trailer will get the shimmy, shimmy, shake. If I had to buy them I would get the trailer tires because they are cheaper then a SUV tire. http://www.easternmarine.com/Trailer-Tires-Only-BIAS-PLY/

BUIZILLA
12-11-2011, 07:35 AM
most of the boat/trailer packages we have weigh less than the tow vehicle we use..

something to ponder

woobs
12-11-2011, 08:50 AM
....it is a load capacity issue.

Read what it says on the sidewall or look it up with the manufacturers specs. Remember some trailers only have 2 tires, so make sure you account for the trailer, boat and any gear in the boat.

Greg Guimond
12-11-2011, 10:26 AM
Good input. Anyone have a rough idea what a steel bunk trailer for a 22C would weigh in at alone?

gcarter
12-11-2011, 10:52 AM
Greg, I'm still puzzled why anyone buys steel trailers????????????????
Of course I live in the land of salt water and aluminum trailers.
But to answer your question, since aluminum is about one third the weight and strength of steel, I suspect the steel frame woud weigh between two and three times as much as aluminum.

mattyboy
12-11-2011, 12:49 PM
Greg,
my performance custom tandem steel trailer for the 16 went around 1500lbs if I remember correctly. it was about a foot shorter than PCT's 22 offering. very nice trailers tow very well and last a long time. that 16 trailer was way over built for the boat it still is riding on the trailer and the original tires 12 years and at least 20,000 miles

PMZONER
12-11-2011, 03:17 PM
Note: trailer tires are not "speed rated" so if you hook up your trailer to that bad @ss truck and try do do 1500 miles at 80 miles per hour you may run into trouble. If the tire PSI is low plan on a road side stop.:smash: Compare the load rating of a set of LT truck tires to the same size trailer tire, the difference in load capacity is clear. The life span of a tire is about 6 years. That's moving or parked or on the rack in the tire shop never installed...probably more info on tires than should ever be on a boat forum. :yes:

BUIZILLA
12-11-2011, 03:28 PM
gero, what size tires?

send me a pic of what ya bought :yes:

farmer tx
12-12-2011, 11:46 PM
Note: trailer tires are not "speed rated" so if you hook up your trailer to that bad @ss truck and try do do 1500 miles at 80 miles per hour you may run into trouble. If the tire PSI is low plan on a road side stop.

Hey Robert, We may be able to argue that. Now how far was it from LHC to Nashville? May have been a tad short of 1500 but that Cummins was go'n:yes:
Oh the joy of big boat ownership, start saving now.

PMZONER
12-15-2011, 09:56 AM
TX, now I wasn't suggesting it couldn't be done, just that a spare might be a good idea! :crossfing:

glashole
12-15-2011, 10:12 AM
if you talk to our brother from texas i am pretty sure his opinion would be
"trailer tires only" or something like that

Team Jefe
12-15-2011, 12:54 PM
Robert. They are messing with you....especially Shea. The simple Answer is to get LOAD RANGE E truck tires. I made the switch over 9 years ago and (knock on wood) have not blown a tire yet. in the 2 years before that runninig trailer tires, I blew out 7.

No trailer I ever own will ever have anything but truck tires on it. The nonsense about not runninig a radial on a trailer is just that....nonsense. Its hype, or whatever. Traielr tires are expensive and as you see from others comments here, the vehicles we run weight more, or have more bed load capacity than the boats we pull. The side walls are just as stiff, the tires are just as good as trailer tires....AND they are speed rated, so they won't delaminate on the highway. AND, you can usually get "new" pull-off's at the local tire store. in Texas, NOBODY runs factory tires, we all trade them for gaudy big ones, so the tire stores have lots of 16" and 17" pull-offs available. the last set I bought. Goodyear GSA all terrains LT265/70 16.... like new, $35 each mounted, balanced and road hazard.

Some here will disagree, and that's fine, everyone can do as they please as far as I'm concerned. For me LT's are the way to go.

woobs
12-15-2011, 02:41 PM
Okay,

"Trailer only" designated tires are designed to exact higher load ranges from smaller sizes to accomodate the trailer industry. They have a different construction consistant with a free rolling axle (not drive or steer) to maximize load, reduce rolling resistance and cope with the rigors of trailer tire use (abuse).

Passenger or LT (Light truck) tires with an acceptable load range are more than capible of doing the job. In fact as these tires have been designed with steering and drive applications in mind they may perform better in some aspects. Similar sidewall protection can be found on some XL (extra load) light truck tires.

Some manufacturers no longer even make "trailer only" designated tires as they have really no clear cut market other than OE.

Don't confuse the issue with radial vs bias. That's not hype, it's just irrelivant...just don't mix them on the same vehicle! BTW: IMHO nobody should run bias ply anything.

Also a "speed rating" is actually a speed/load rating certifying that tire Y under load Z can travel safely at X speed for a defined period of time on a test drum. just because a tire is not "speed rated" does not mean it will disintegrate. Oh, and most PSR /LT tires made today do have a "speed rating"...so again don't worry about this at it is just clouding the issue.

Bottom line - Be sure your tires have the load capacity for the vehicle they support. AND make sure you have them properly inflated.

gero1
12-15-2011, 11:55 PM
many thanks to all, probably some of the best and most informative tire talk that i have ever read on here.

farmer tx
12-16-2011, 12:37 AM
TX, now I wasn't suggesting it couldn't be done, just that a spare might be a good idea!


Spare??

PMZONER
12-16-2011, 12:36 PM
inside joke, ask Robert about 007's delivery :boggled: