Wanted AQ280PT or AQ290

[tiupc]

I want to convert my AQ280 to Hydraulic tilt/trim. I am looking for either a complete AQ280PT or an AQ290. I would be willing to accept all the parts less the 280 out drive as my outdrive/leg is good.
Thanks

Trevor

[f_inscreenname]

Have a 290 shield and all the parts that go with it but it needs rams.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/875845-Volvo-Penta-Transom-Shield-/250184445809?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a4027af71

[f_inscreenname]

QUOTE Conquistador_del_mar QUOTE

Just a FYI. Thats a 280T shield not a 290. Two different animals altogether. If you don't have the 290 drive with the right fork on it then you need that 280 shield.

[SamIam]

I have rams and parts - NO PLATE.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Trevor,
Since you already have the 280 drive, the link I provided is the transom assembly you are after. Bill

[tiupc]

First of all I want to thank all of you who have replied. Perhaps I am being naive or just lack a whole bunch of knowledge. I have a 1975 Ski Sporter "sweet sixteen" 350 sbc and AQ280 Drive. By GPS it will run 54 mph 27P cupped prop . The boat runs very smooth in all kinds of water (large inland lake) so there is no problem there.
Having had runabouts over the years that needed trim to increase speed, I assumed the same with the Donzi. I actually have no complaints regarding ride attitude or how fast it gets up on plane. I also assumed that it would be an easy conversion, just find the parts and put them on. Without your input, I probably would have bought both 280 and 290 parts and ended up with just that a pile of parts. Also, I suspect some expertise is needed to change this over. I am also currently looking at a boat with an AQ280PT Drive but a blown motor( it is also located within 50 miles of me) . Again the dilemma is what do I do with the boat an trailer after removing the outdrive. If I don't change the drive, it will not upset me in the least. I value the opinions of those on this board as you all seem to have owned Donzi's etc for many years.
Again, I thank all of you for your replies and sure hope you do not think I am wasting your time.

Trevor
Ontario, Canada

68910

[f_inscreenname]

I would rather answer a question before you do something you really didn't want to. That's what we are all here for. Changing a shield is a big task. Motor has to come out. Drive has to be pulled. Everything has to be pulled off the transom and if you are buying a boat for parts then that means you will be doing it all twice. Also old things that have been stuck together for a long time tend to stay stuck together. There is nothing like trim after not having trim but be prepared for the task or you may just be without a boat if things go south on ya.
If you want to do it we can walk you through it but let it be known it's no cake walk but will improve the performance and resale value of the boat. I also would never spend the money they want to replace one of those tilt motors so if it went bad the 280T would be my only option.

[tiupc]

f_inscreenname
Thanks for your explanation of what is involved.
I think you have answered my decision for me. Changing drives is not something I would be able to accomplish. Are there other ways to provide some sort of trim. ie raise outdrive stop to the highest position ( 3rd) and use trim tabs for planing ? or

Trevor

[f_inscreenname]

I would rather take the motor out. Getting the bellhousing off the shield would be murder but to each his own.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Trevor,
Quite honestly this is a relatively easy job - probably a total of 8-10 hours to R&R the engine and transom assembly. The 280T will require 2 more holes to be drilled in the transom, but the rest of the bolts will go in the same holes. You will need a trim pump which I don't remember seeing in the ebay ad. Bottom line is don't be too scared by this great addition. Bill

[thescooter]

I spoke to this guy back in sept.
he had a whole setup, volvo drive 280t with the trans plate with hydra trim.
it had 6 cylinder gears.
i passed it up i wanted v-8 gears, i don't care if i have trim will driving down the river
he is in jersey

if you have no wrench turning experience this is a not easy and is a large task.

1 first you must FIND ALL the parts.
2 then you must pull your motor and remove transom plate.
3 put on new trans plate re install motor, maybe send motor for some work its out.
4 install new wiring
5 trouble shoot trouble shoot and rebuild parts
6 test run
7 trouble shoot some more

DO YOU NEED OTHER PARTS ?????????? CALL ME 609-893-2700 SHOP DON

nick the scooter

[mattyboy]

the job can be easy or it can be a bear. the 16 usually carries the nose high anyway. i would try propping the boat first props make a world of difference on the 16. what gear ratio do you have now and at what rpm is the 54 mph with the cupped 27p.

[tiupc]

The drive is a" B" so gears would be 1.61 RPM is 4100 approx. With standard 25P, RPM is 4800 but didn't have GPS with me at the time. The drive is set on the middle (second position) notch.
NOTE: This boat is listed near me and certainly would have all the parts but I don't want or need another boat. Also, by the description, $2500 seems cheap.

http://hamilton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-boats-watercraft-powerboats-motorboats-21-volvo-penta-fiberglass-aluminum-trailer-W0QQAdIdZ328743009

Trevor

[Kirbyvv]

I made this swap a few years ago. I bought a 280T transom sheild and rams and swapped it out. I didn't do it to gain any speed, just to be able to trim up in shallow water near my dock. Proper prop selection will gain you more speed than trim with the 280 volvo drives. I think i gained 0.5 mph after the swap.
Like said above, pull motor, drive, etc. add trim pump, wiring, etc. If you have everything at hand it might be an 8-10 hour job, but it took us a few weeks of evenings and weekend days. Then one of the rams leaked and I had to find one and swap it out.
Glad I did it for the convenience.

[f_inscreenname]

I did mine for the same reason Kirb did. No water at the ramp and another broken tilt.
68940
And like him I didn't see any speed but it sure is nice to not worry about skinny water. I did mine to a 270. I also found any common mercruiser trim pump works perfect. No reason to shell out the big bucks on something tagged "Volvo".

[mattyboy]

what is the speed difference between the 25p and the 27p??

the 27p cupped prop is a POS running your numbers your at 17-20 percent slip

if the 25p is at 15 percent slip the boat is at 60 mph

I would start looking for a 24-26 ultra or a 21-23 solas titan to try

the ultra is good the solas is better IMO the solas is in the single digit slip percentage.


if you can turn a solas 23 to 4700 rpm your at 60 also maybe a tad more



hope that helps


my 67 67 with a 250 w/nose cone and no trim middle hole ran right up to 60 a tad more on good days with a 310 hp 351 1.6 gears @ 5000 ish rpm spiing a 21 solas

the solas are extremely efficient and have a larger diameter& cupped so add 2 inches of pitch to the number or the numbers don't jive on a prop calc.

one thing that hasn't been mentioned is the outside trim connections on the transom housing. they are outside of the seal and the holes drilled for them would need to be protected from water as well as sealing the outside perimeter of the housing. water will penetrate from the top bottom or side of that part of the housing. this will rot the housing and the transom.

[nguber57]

I have the parts you need to make the swap to power trim.If you are serious Email me at nguber57@yahoo.com. thanks

[tiupc]

I noticed in some of the pictures in previous threads, that the stainless props seem to be "long hub" on a short hub shaft. My question is can I use one of these Solas Titan Props 15+" diameter Long Hub on my 280 drive which currently has short hub props. Will the shaft cone fit inside the solas hub ?
Thanks for your patience.

Trevor

[mattyboy]

yes the cones should fit
with the cone with a the bolt thru it all you need is a various collection of different size thrust washers. I ran both short and long on my short 250. if your cone doesn't have a bolt thru it you'll need to drill and tap the shaft so it does have a bolt. the issue with the solas is the depth of the prop it will be close to your torque tab depending on what size it is might lead to a clearance issue. usually the tab on a 280 is amaller than a 200-270 drive

[tiupc]

Thanks for the info mattyboy. The bolt through the cone is broken off in the shaft ( thats how it was when I bought the boat) I will drill it out in the spring and put a new bolt in. Thank god for left turning propeller or I wouldn't have a prop. I haven't found any solas dealers yet in Canada so I will probably order one from the US

[f_inscreenname]

Mine don't have the bolt (Volvo 270) so I just use a little loc-tight on the cone. Never had an issue but I use a left also.

[mattyboy]

a cone is not really even needed i ran mine with a custom made ss threaded washer and a nylock backing nut

the issue i had with some props is their depth and how much thread was left on the end of the shaft for the backing nut to bite on