PDA

View Full Version : 2000 18 Classic maintenance questions



Capevettes
10-19-2011, 02:18 PM
I have a 2000 18 foot classic which I purchased a few weeks ago. 350 mag MPI. After reading both manuals I still have a few questions as I get ready to winterize:

1. Manual specifies Quicksilver 25W40 motor oil. Is that correct or is there a better choice without causing issues?
2. What are the correct spark plugs for this motor?
3. I need info on the block drain procedure. Is there a video anywhere?
4. Being fuel injected I can't fog the motor like I did my old carburated boat. I did run stable in the gas on my final ride yesterday. What if any procedure do you use?

Any recommendations or advice would be appreciated

VetteLT193
10-19-2011, 02:33 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

The 25-40 merc oil is ok. I use Mobil 1 15w-50. it's easier to find (wal mart, 5 qt. jug) and many people use it.

I can't remember the spark plug number, long day... check out mercruiserparts.com for any specific parts like that... or it's simple enough to just pull one.

Some of the MPI's came with a single drain system. My Donzi came with it so I'd check for that first.

There is an MPI fogging procedure. one of our northern members will chime in I'm sure.

tmh
10-19-2011, 03:02 PM
I used NGK BPR6EFS plugs for my 2003 350 MPI which seem to work well.
TMH

Capevettes
10-19-2011, 03:17 PM
Thanks Vette and TMH for your replies. I like Mobil 1 and I have always liked NGK plugs. I realize oil and plugs are hard things to get a consensus on.

I'm assuming this motor is 5 quarts of oil including filter?

Fishermanjm
10-19-2011, 03:37 PM
the fogging part is done basically the same way, remove the flame arrestor run the engine and spray down the throttle body. i use fuel treatment with every treatment

Capevettes
10-19-2011, 03:58 PM
Thanks fisherman. Seems pretty straightforward.

biggiefl
10-19-2011, 04:04 PM
Your manual should tell you the oil capacity. Going by the dipstick is great if you "know" you are level. As far as oil goes I always ran straight 30 or 40 in my 454 and 350 mags. Newer engines might use variable weights now so check. I also have never run synthetics as I don't put enough hours on it per season and synthetics have a tendency to leak. If there is the tiniest of a leak, synthetic finds it. As far as longevity goes, I have yet to see a boat engine actually wear out, most blow up from something simple or stupid, not oil type. My cars I run Mobil 1, I have to actually, but it is more of a convenience to me. With newer cars, tolerances are EXTREMELY tight and synthetics are a must. Your engine is a 1960's engine made decades later, I doubt it matters. Then again if you run it hard, by all means do the most you can to extend its life. Then again for an extra $15-20 who really cares as long as it does not start leaking.

Fishermanjm
10-19-2011, 04:09 PM
correction,,, i ment to say that i use the fuel treatment with every fill up. the fuel stabilizer and the ethenol treatment

Tidbart
10-20-2011, 08:29 AM
Book calls for AC Platinum (AC 41-932) Spark Plugs @ .060 in gap. To be sure you get the right plug, post the engine's serial number.

FYI, to find any part for your engine, drive, etc., always have the serial numbers available. Your 2000 could have an older block which would use a different plug.

Bob

VetteLT193
10-20-2011, 09:04 AM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

I thought that MPI engines require a different fogging process (through the fuel line). I think the older fuel injected engines you did fog the same way.

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Bullet/01/01_15.pdf

Capevettes
10-20-2011, 09:16 AM
Thanks everyone for your responses. The manuals that came for the boat and the motor are awful. No info on motor oil capacity or spark plugs. I think I will stick with the AC plugs and the Quicksilver (non syn) 25 40 oil. I like to keep it simple.

VetteLT193
10-20-2011, 10:33 AM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

The main reason to use Synthetic is the merc small blocks don't come with oil coolers and Synthetics handle the heat better.

Also... you can change to a bigger oil filter if you want and it will hold an extra half quart. If I get a chance later I'll grab a pic of what my engines look like with the taller filter. It's a Mobil 1 filter.

Tidbart
10-20-2011, 11:46 AM
Here is some info for starters............. Like I said before, get your serial number. You will need it in order to get the correct service manual for your engine. Worth every penny if you plan to do the work yourself.


Preparing Your Power Package For Storage
1. Fill the fuel tanks with fresh gasoline (that does not contain alcohol) and a sufficient
amount of Mercury Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer to treat the gasoline. Follow
instructions on the container.
2. If the boat is to be placed in storage with fuel containing alcohol in fuel tanks (if
fuel without alcohol is not available): Fuel tanks should be drained as low as possible
and Quicksilver Gasoline Stabilizer for Marine Engines added to any fuel remaining in
the tank.
NOTE: If desired, a portable fuel tank can be used to perform the remainder of the power
package lay up procedures. Be sure to add an appropriate amount of Gasoline Stabilizer
to the portable tank.
3. Flush the cooling system.
4. Change the oil and oil filter.

FUEL SYSTEM
1. In a 23 l (6 U.S. gal.) remote fuel tank mix:
a. 19 l (5 U.S. gal) regular unleaded 87 octane (90 RON) gasoline
b. 1.89 l (2 U.S. qts.) Premium Plus 2-Cycle TC-W3 Outboard Oil
c. 150ml (5 ounces) Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer or 30 ml (1 ounce) Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer Concentrate.
Description, Where Used, Part Number
Mercury Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer, Fuel System, 92-802875A1
Mercury Fuel System Treatment and Stabilizer Concentrate, Fuel System, 92-802876A1
Premium Plus 2-Cycle TC-W3 Outboard Oil, Fuel System, 92-802824A1
2. Allow the engine to cool down.
3. Activate the Schrader valve to relieve fuel pressure.
4. Close the fuel shut-off valve, if equipped. Disconnect and plug the fuel inlet fitting if not equipped with a fuel shut-off valve.
5. Connect the remote fuel tank (with the fogging mixture) to the fuel inlet fitting.
IMPORTANT: Supply cooling water to the engine.
6. Start and operate the engine at 1300 rpm for 5 minutes.
7. After specified operating time is complete, slowly return throttle to idle rpm and shut engine off.
IMPORTANT: Ensure that some fogging mixture remains in the engine. Do NOT allow the engine’s fuel system to become completely dry.
8. Remove and discard the water separating fuel filter.
9. Install a new filter.

BATTERY
Follow the battery manufacturer’s instructions for storage.

Draining Instructions
IMPORTANT: Boat must be as level as possible to ensure complete draining of cooling system.
Your power package is equipped with one of three drain systems. Refer to Identification on the following page to determine which instructions apply to your power package.
The power package should be drained before flushing or prior to extended or cold weather storage.
IMPORTANT: The boat must not be operating at any point during this procedure.


AS far as draining procedure goes, you need to determine what type of drain system you have. Manual single-point, Air-actuated single point, or manual triple point. Here is the most likely one...............


3 POINT MANUAL DRAIN SYSTEM
NOTE: Use this procedure if your engine is not equipped with an air actuated single point drain system or if the single point drain system fails.
1. Remove three blue drain plugs: One from the distribution housing (lower front, port side) and two from the seawater pickup pump (front, starboard side).
2. Verify that water is draining from each opening.
3. Allow the system to drain for a minimum of 5 minutes. Mercury MerCruiser recommends leaving the plugs out while transporting the boat or while performing other maintenance to ensure that all water is drained.
4. Crank engine over slightly with starter motor to purge any water trapped in seawater pickup pump. Do NOT allow engine to start.
5. Prior to launching boat or starting the engine, close the drain system by re-installing the three blue drain plugs.

All Models
1. For additional assurance against freezing and corrosion, fill the cooling system with a mixture of propylene glycol antifreeze and tap water mixed to manufacturer’s recommendation to protect engine to the lowest temperature to which it will be exposed during cold weather or extended storage.
a. Remove thermostat housing or hose and fill with propylene glycol coolant until engine block is full. If thermostat housing was removed, reinstall and tighten cover bolts securely.
Store boat with drive unit in full DOWN/IN position.


Bob

Capevettes
10-20-2011, 12:05 PM
Bob, Thank you very much for taking the time to lay out the entire process for me. I appreciate it. I have winterized my old boat for the last 7 years but this Donzi is a bit different and I don't want to blow it.

Do you change the gear lube every year even if it does not appear to be contaminated?

VetteLT193
10-20-2011, 12:32 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

I change my gear lube every year. cheap insurance. it comes out blue just like it goes in. If you leave it it turns nasty over time.

biggiefl
10-20-2011, 01:02 PM
Change gearlube when winterizing. Water in that can cause it to crack. Water lays inside the drive as well, I always pulled my drive and put a $5 plastic cover over the assembly. This allows you to check and greas your u-joints as well. I then made a plywood box that my drive layed in standing up and just stood it along the wall in my garage until spring.

mike o
10-20-2011, 02:16 PM
Look on the side of removable plastic cover or bonnet on top engine. On my 02 MX6.2L 18C, the engine serial, # plug type and gap and other info is on the side of my engine cover or bonnet on a label.............:crossfing:

Capevettes
10-20-2011, 05:08 PM
Thanks guys. I agree on changing the gear lube before each winter. I will check for that info under the bonnet.

Tidbart
10-20-2011, 10:02 PM
Doing a drive oil change at the end of the season is not a bad idea. You can see if you had any water get into the drive somehow. If you do happen to have water in there, you would want to find out now before it freezes and takes out your drive casing. It is only aluminum.

Engines take several days of good freezes before you do any damage. A drive would take much less time.

B


Oops. Must of missed a few posts.

Fishermanjm
10-25-2011, 11:54 AM
Does the two stroke oil take the place of the spray fogging oil??? Do u think it's used to lube the fuel pump also for storage lay up???