View Full Version : Bad Wood

10-17-2011, 06:52 PM
I was working on the hull today. After the weekend I was looking at Mr. Carters resto and trying to figure out the best way to attach the hull to the deck. The wood is in real bad shape. I really cant believe they only used 1/4" Lattice to hold these boats together. Any ideas? Should I just reglass a new piece of pressure treated in its place? Any ideas would be appriciated.

10-17-2011, 07:17 PM
Buddy, I don't even like the wood strips because I don't like to use wood screws.
You could go back w/strips as it would be easier. After all, the original might be older than you are.
Anyway, I like to through bolt the joint, and it's easy to do except for the cockpit sides where you can't reach.
If it were me and the original strips had to be removed, maybe lay some strips of 1708 in there, again, everywhere except for the cockpit side area.
It's pretty easy to through bolt, all you need is a friend to halp.

10-17-2011, 07:24 PM
I probably wouldn't use pressure treated as it might affect bonding.
I'd epoxy it in also. Just the joint of wood and existing glass. That way you can still use cloth over the wood as Donzi originally did.

10-17-2011, 07:32 PM
I really do like the idea of bolting it in. In working on automobiles, I used alot of "U nuts" They worked well and stayed in place. Thing is you cant get them in stainless

10-17-2011, 07:36 PM
Buddy, maybe you missed this thread....


The TEE nuts are as good, but you do have to have wood for them to seat.

10-17-2011, 07:41 PM
I did see that. Actually read it over yesterday. I like the way your edge is at least twice as thick as stock. After tearing apart the origional setup, I would rather not use wood. Are the bolt heads shallow enough to fit under your rub rail?

10-17-2011, 07:46 PM
I would definately add some more glass where the wood was, at least a couple of courses.
Yes, the flat head countersunk screws had plenty of meet to seat in.

10-17-2011, 08:43 PM
Buddy, here's a picture of the Minx w/the joint screws in place. I used most of the original holes. I think the the wood screws were #10, so I enlarged them to clearance for 1/4". I had to enlarge the countersink quite a bit to make sure the screws were completely flush.

10-18-2011, 08:06 AM
Thanks Fixx... But I have no idea what box tube is.. :confused:

10-18-2011, 08:14 AM
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LOTS of work but it does sound good...

10-18-2011, 08:18 AM
What Mike said about the possible interference between the rail screws and the joint screws is very important.
In some areas, you might want to re-space the joint screw holes for better spacing w/the rail screw holes.
There's nothing sacred about the existing holes, do what you need to do.

Just Say N20
10-18-2011, 08:41 AM
I went kind of stupid, but with 51 hours of run time in Lake Michigan, not one screw head has even budged.

Behind the cockpit, where you can't reach, I used 1/4" aluminum, rather than 1/8" so the screw would have something more to hold on to.

Each hole was drilled, tapped, and screwed in using blue locktite, then a nylon lock nut tightened on the back, inside the hull.


10-19-2011, 07:46 PM
So Fixx... Let me get this straight. Beef up the edge with more glass. then glass in or 5200 the steel tubing. Would predrilling work or would they have to be tapped also?

10-20-2011, 04:00 PM
Here's another interesting material that might be of use.

Marine HDPE (http://www.curbellplastics.com/technical-resources/pdf/seaboard-sellsheet-curbell.pdf#search="hdpe")

We use the regular HDPE at work all the time. This stuff is strong, fairly light and inexpensive.

10-20-2011, 08:19 PM
Im sorry, Dont understand. Website didnt point to specifics:confused: