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Jamesbon
10-14-2011, 09:08 AM
Hey guys,

Getting ready to attach the deck to the hull on the GT 21. How far apart should I space my through hull fasteners which hold the deck to the hull lip? I assume they should be through bolted?

Do you use "wood screws" for the rubrail and s\s insert? (Spacing on those are pre-determined.) SS insert has a hole about every 6", the PVC rubrail has holes about every 8".

When all done, there's going to be a sh1tload of holes in there :(

gcarter
10-14-2011, 10:20 AM
Good morning Nate.
Here's how I do it;
First I mark the rub rail holes w/a marker of a particular color.
Since you're starting w/a blank slate, you can divide the distance between the rub rail holes into four 2" spaces (which might be a little close, but not too close), or two 4" spaces. Then, mark them w/a different color.
I like to through bolt the deck to the hull w/flat head, countersunk machine screws, fender washers (on the inside), and nylock lock nuts. You can easily do this around the entire perimeter except down the sides of the cockpit and maybe up in the very front of the bow.
In those areas, you can either use wood screws (which I DON'T like to do), or you can install some SST TEE nuts on the inside of those areas. I did this on the Minx except around the transom where I through bolted it.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6393&stc=1&d=1095896022

Anyway, by through bolting the joint, you'll never have loose screws or joint.

The same would apply to your rail except use oval head countersunk machine screws.
I seem to remember I used 1/4" screws in the joint and #10 screws on the rail, but that was deteremined by the existing holes in the rail.
Good luck

Morgan's Cloud
10-14-2011, 06:59 PM
Def no argument here with how George does it ! The problem is , what kind of access do you have to all those areas once the deck is dropped on ?

As to your original question , if I recall correctly , the spacing of the original factory deck/screw locations is about every 18 inches or so on the St T. Yours is probably similar. It rarely works out in real life though when you go to put the rub rail on with it's pre-drilled 6 inch centres and you have to make slight alterations on the 'big day' when you least want to.


Don't forget though , this is your chance to use a good sealer on the hull / deck joint while you're at it and as always , I don't recommend 5200 unless you never intend for anyone to ever go through what your doing now again.

OFFSHORE GINGER
10-14-2011, 08:07 PM
George , just curous ....what is the reason behind that backing system .............considering a bolt .....with a Ny - lock nut , and washer .......would work better ....................., and George ........just by chance could you show us the prongs .....on that bad boy ......three ...or ...four ?

gcarter
10-14-2011, 09:37 PM
"George , just curous ....what is the reason behind that backing system .............considering a bolt .....with a Ny - lock nut , and washer .......would work better ....................., and George ........just by chance could you show us the prongs .....on that bad boy ......three ...or ...four ?"


Artie, if you read it again, you'll find I did reccomend through bolting except on either side of the cockpit where you can't reach the back side.
I used the TEE nuts on most locations on the Minx so I could do by myself.
They are four prong SST.