Trailer brakes

[VetteLT193]

I'm getting my trailer ready for the 'sota run next week. I thought I had a bad bearing, but after taking things apart I think my brake is dragging on one tire. It's probably from sitting around Vs. using it like I used to.

First off... The cap on the brake master is stuck and it's made out of some sort of rubber so it deforms when pressure is put on it (I believe it's a Titan).

Any tips? Boat is off the trailer so I can do anything at this point. I'm heading to get some vice grips to try to remove the cap (I have thousands of tools but managed to never buy a set of vice grips, figure that one out!). After I get the cap off I'm going to do a basic fluid flush.

The brakes themselves actually look pretty good. surface rust on the rotors, as expected, but none on the calipers or anywhere else except the back sides of the pads.

[biggiefl]

Putting on a new set of calipers is the same as with a car and about the same price. You may have to remove the caliper and see if it is frozen anywhere or leaking. When they rust the seals rub against it and start to leak and then they start to "hang up" on you. You may get it done with a flush but you may have to buy a set of calipers(don't do one side, keep the other as a spare instead). Keep us posted and I'll see you in a bit.

[VetteLT193]

[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

I actually think the caliper is fine but something else might not be right. I'll know more tonight if it doesn't rain.

[Tidbart]

Bobby,

take a caliper off the mount and squeeze the piston back into the caliper with a large pair of channel locks. Got one of those?:wink: You should be able to see if the piston is seized or not.

If by chance one was, they are easily rebuilt.

B

[hardcrab]

Possibly an (internally) collapsed hose to the caliper

I just had that happen on my pickup.

[Tidbart]

[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

I'd bet that someone had put a vise-grip on the line at one time in the past. Common practice by some shops, done to remove the caliper and not drain all the fluid out of the system. Can destroy the hose from the inside.

B

[mrfixxall]

rusty rotors will make lots of noise! make sure when they installed the axles theirs rubber hoses going to the calipers..i have seen some copanys install steel brake lines directly to the calipers which dont let the calipers float,then the steel brake line applys pressure and wares out the pads..

[VetteLT193]

the trailer is as new as the boat is and the brakes haven't been serviced. lines were ok, one of the bleaders was cracked open so the fluid must have ran out on my last trip (the hot hub was the one with the loose bleeder). got fluid in there, life seems like it is about to be good again buuuuuuuuut....

I managed to tweak the last couple of threads on the hub when I pulled the axle nut off. Anyone know where I can get a big enough die or ?? to walk back over the threads? I tried to clean them up manually but no luck. all of the tap and die sets that I have found are not nearly large enough. I think the axles are an inch in diameter. I have a new non braked axle but that's no good to me because it's on a braked (Kodiak) wheel.

Tool rental, or ??? It's a major hangup when I'm trying to leave in a week and I am flying to San Fran for the first part of next week. HELP!!!

[Tidbart]

[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Bob,

Did you bleed the air out of the lines? If you have any in there, they won't work properly when you need them.

Can't help on the threads. That won't be an easy die to find. I have some small files that I would use in this case but that won't do you any good.

Bob

[BUIZILLA]

get a small triangular jewelers file...

[silverghost]

I have had great luck fixing damaged axel spindle threads with special thread chaser dies .
Also~
Special pitched thread chaser files.
These files have eight thread pitches on them to straighten-out damaged threads.

Most large auto supply parts stores & NAPA carry both of these.

If you take your time a small "V" shaped mini-file will also work well.

[VetteLT193]

Thanks for the suggestions on the threads guys, I'll swing by NAPA.

As for the brakes, they are no problem for me, I've done a brake job on almost every car I've ever owned. I haven't done a full bleed yet but will as soon as I get the axle nut on.

[VetteLT193]

Napa, advanced auto, a few other auto places and hardware stores don't have what I need. Napa has the file in the catalog but couldn't even order it because none of the local places had it to get it in.... ideas????

My next bet is to try to manually fix it with a regular file or dremel tool but I'm not sure on the accuracy ill get

[BUIZILLA]

northern tool sells a multi piece mini file kit

[dsparis]

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=hand&Group_ID=1159&store=snapon-store

[silverghost]

If all else fails SEARS sells thread chaser kits through their Sears Tool Catalog.
I doubt and Sears , or Sears Hardware stores, will have them on hand ?
But you never can tell~
Might pay to make a trip to your local Sears store tool department ?

Snap-On also sells these thread chaser kits.
BUT~
Before you try this~

Do what Jim said and try a very small narrow "V" shaped jeweler's file.
Usually it only takes 15-20 min or so of working the file from the good threads back around the axel spindle ; and into the bad damaged threads .
It should be a fairly simple easy thread repair.

[VetteLT193]

No one has chasers big enough. I dremel tooled it and finally got it back on last night. Just got back from carrabelle, boat is loaded and ready to go. It is filthy but I can hopefully find a hose on the dock and wash it there

[MOP]

Find a thread file like the square ones pictured in Fixes red case, you can dress down any sized thread with them. Mine are 40 years old ans still do a great job!