View Full Version : Outdrive damage

09-26-2011, 07:43 AM
Putting the boat away last night and noticed paint damage. I have no idea how this happened. :confused:
I didn't "feel" any contact, (plank with nails) or drive in shallow water. The surface conditions were very calm too so I'm sure I would've felt something. The prop is not damaged as far as I can tell. I didn't have time to do a thorough inspection as I had to leave to get back to the city. Anybody have any ideas how this could happen?

09-26-2011, 08:26 AM
The damage is just the one strip, right? (And not the bright bit at the top?front of the skeg in the pic I mean, which looks like it may be a reflection.) Or is it both of them?

The strip doesn't look like bottom damage--gotta be debris I would think. What were the surface conditions like on the run when you think (or know) it happened?


09-26-2011, 10:12 AM
That is not damage, it looks like missing paint. Can of rustoleum will cure that in a minute :yes:

09-26-2011, 12:01 PM
It looks like there is a nosecone outline on the lower foot. I am guessing that the nosecone was added and a low quality paint was used with no primer. No big deal to fix it correctly. Bill

09-26-2011, 02:47 PM
@Biggie and Bill - Hope your right, paint is always an easy fix

Boat came with the nose cone so I can't verify paint quality. The paint appears to be in good condition but I did consider that possibility. Ie, a chip in the paint on the nose cone allowed the fast moving water to flake up weakened primer. There doesn’t seem to be any gouges in the steel and the prop wasn’t damaged. Paint also reacted the same at the lower unit oil drain.


09-26-2011, 03:36 PM
I haven't ever had luck repainting drives with spray paint (I even tried the merc specific drive paint hoping that would help). This happens basically non-stop. Others here have used better quality paint with better results.

09-26-2011, 03:50 PM
I'll do a thread search for lower unit painting / products. Suggestions welcome. Tnx

09-26-2011, 03:52 PM
I gave up on painting the lower and had it bead blasted. I run it naked now.

Of course it only gets left in the water overnight about 2 to 4 nights a year and only freshwater

09-26-2011, 04:16 PM
sounds interesting, kinda :pimp: Pics?

Is powder-coating an option?

09-26-2011, 05:35 PM
I wouldn't sweat it.Now you can but the bh.the wife will go for it now..Just say its broke lol. I was up at the lake of bays last weekend with my boat and my buds 27zx killed him he was not happy.:)

09-26-2011, 05:43 PM
Powdercoating would require a complete stripping of the lower unit, which would mean removing the nose cone......
The heat of the baking process is hard to deal w/when you're dealing w/castings.
The epoxy on the nose cone won't hold up either.
Paint is your only option unless you remove the paint and for you, you'd have a nose cone and filler showing.
I just keep painting the lower. This always happens, and you just have to get used to it.
It's easy to paint the lower, just remove the prop, mask the shaft, the parting line on the lower, and spray.

Carl C
09-26-2011, 05:53 PM
Mercury Phantom Black over a good primer held up on my old outboard. You'll need to strip the old paint first maybe with a chemical stripper and wipe the drive with acetone. It also looks good with the lower left in just primer.

09-26-2011, 06:08 PM
when i repair lower units and if the customer wants to go and pay for the extra mile i use PPG epoxy dp 90 black primer then shoot over that with imron..looks like the nose cone is starting to come off,,you will need to remove it completely to do the proper repair..i will fill the nose cone completely with epoxy and let the excess epoxy ooze out and then wipe it off before clamping it in place with the jig i built..filling the nose cone with epoxy will fill all the voids to keep the water from seeping in the tip over a period of time then it will freeze and push the nose cone out and that's when the outline of the nose cone appears..

09-26-2011, 08:47 PM
Thanks guys, lots of good advice. I researched after work and powder-coat isn't an option. Correct prep, product selection and application shouldn't be too big a job. Will do before end of season. Found this on-line:

1. Prepare the chipped spots with a small tool (I like a small sanding wheel on a Dremel tool). Make sure you clean any pits to the bottom of their depth. You may need to use a Dremel tip grinder to do this... but failure to clean pits all the way down will ensure their return. Feather to the existing coating surface. Leave the exposed metal surfaces "sandpaper rough" to aid paint adhesion.

2. Use a paint dulling compound (available at paint stores, etc) on all remaining painted surfaces. Use fine steel wool to rub this in and very finely scratch the surfaces. Once finished, use a very dilute ammonia solution to wash the entire unit, then rinse thoroughly with water and wipe dry with clean cotton rags.

3. Use "metal prep" (like an iron phosphate or zinc phosphate solution... zinc is best if you can find it) on any bare metal spots. Metal prep is an acid, so be careful. Dob it on exposed metal spots (only) and allow it to air dry very slowly to build its crystalline structure (microscopic) on the surface. Do not wash.

4. Once everything is clean and dry, spray the entire unit with a good quality zinc-rich primer. I would do two coats on two successive days, if possible.

5. Top coat with a high quality enamel or better yet, Dupont Imron polyurethane enamel. I would do two coats of this as well.

09-26-2011, 08:58 PM
"I wouldn't sweat it.Now you can but the bh.the wife will go for it now..Just say its broke lol. I was up at the lake of bays last weekend with my boat and my buds 27zx killed him he was not happy.:)"

Damn you Skilling!!! It's taken me all summer to control my Blackhawk OCD and you go and pull me back in with one post!!.... good point though, she would probably buy the story...damn it. :wink: Glad to hear the boat is running strong, mi casa es su casa, still a few weeks left.

09-26-2011, 10:04 PM
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I ran my 18 with the green zinc chromate primer only. Liked the look and was eazy to touch-up

09-27-2011, 11:41 AM
Do not put the zinc primer on thick. You want to be able to see through it. If you put it on too thick it will just peel off...probably what happened to yours. When it is thick it will come off in sheets...weird. I just slap some rustoleum on there and I bet it is missing by the time I leave the ramp. Water is skinny around here and I beach my boat every weekend, paint has no chance with me. My brand new Suzuki I scratched the lower taking it out of the crate...been downhill since then. I like the bare metal idea and then clear it so it won't get funky.

09-28-2011, 06:41 AM
I like the bare metal with clear coat. I realize the clear won't hold but probably would look pretty b-ass. If anyone has done this a pic would be nice.