Who has the cheapest 454 exhaust manifolds?

[biggiefl]

I have the OEM SS risers and am looking at new manifolds. E-Bay has GLM 's for $314 delivered a pair. Any other suggestions?

[Tidbart]

I have the OEM SS risers and am looking at new manifolds. E-Bay has GLM 's for $314 delivered a pair. Any other suggestions?

GLM is gonna be a front runner. Decent product and price. Comes in iron and alum, if you want to drop a few pounds.

B

[biggiefl]

Don't think I want alum in salt. Anyone cheaper than Flea-Bay? PS I would love to drop a few pounds personally ;)

[mrfixxall]

Don't think I want alum in salt. Anyone cheaper than Flea-Bay? PS I would love to drop a few pounds personally ;)

people bicker about alunimum manifolds in salt..most efi intake manifollds are are alunimum and seem to last as long as you flush the engine..what lasts longer in salt water in reguards to trailers? alunimum or steel ?kindda makes you think now dont it :)

[MOP]

Aluminum in salt does quite well with flushing, Gil says 10-12 years in salt. I had a few customers with the old H/M manifolds and the did very well, I run Gils which are now five years old. Recently I pulled the aluminum risers and had a buddy check the thickness, he said they had plenty of meat left they are back on the engine. Phil

[MOP]

IMO one of the last things one wants to do with a 22C is reduce weigh aft, the more weight aft the less trim needed for speed. When I was re-doing my 22 I had a talk with Geo, his advice was to get as much weight transferred aft as possible. Upon his advice I moved all I could aft including the new gas tank, dual batteries, the 22C of all the classics is heavy in the nose we who own them know it takes a handful of trim to get the boat loose. IMO if you go with aluminum at least move the batteries well aft to compensate. Both of my fuel tanks are operational, when the stock tank is full the boat porpoises and gets just a tad over 60. With fuel only in the aft tank font empty there is -0- porpoising and on a good day 65.5, many will chime but I have running proof!

[Walt. H.]

You can always add a sacrificial metal zinc anode to protect a aluminum exh or intake manifold that's available to fit into one of the blank pipe plug holes that you have plugged now with either a brass or steel plug in both of your exh & intake manifold.

[f_inscreenname]

I've run aluminum GLM's for years. Flush when you use them and all's good.

[Walt. H.]

I've run aluminum GLM's for years. Flush when you use them and all's good.
I have them also with great success since 2005 or 06' and saved over a 100 plus lbs from cast iron and another 25-lbs per side with these polished S/S Imco Risers, but i'm on the Hudson river where the flavor of the water is brackish to sweet where I am located.

[silverghost]

If your boat sits in saltwater all season long and you do not want to flush with freshwater after each & every use you do not want aluminum.
You will only get 2-3 years use in this case with annode protection.
Cast iron will last 5-7 seasons on constant saltwater use without flushing.
My boats sit constantly in saltwater for 5-6 months with no flushing.
Flushing becomes a big pain in the butt if you use the boats as much as we once did.
I averaged 150 engine running hours each summer season.
The riser elbows will always fail before the manifolds themselves.
Two elbows to each manifold is about average.
OSCO makes the thickest iron castings & best aftermarket stock Merc manifolds in my opinion.
The Stainless Steel Merc riser elbows with OSCO iron manifolds is the right way to go.
Despite the engine being used in salt before In my opinion It's never too late to add a FWC heat exchanger closed cooling system.
Use a good commercial engine flush chemical & ad high quality 50/50 antifreeze & distilled water..
Change your antifreeze several times after first setting the FWC system up and any engime rust should stabilize & stop alltogether.
It's almost never too late to add a FWC closed cooling heat exchanger system.

[BUIZILLA]

why such a concern for *cheap*?

[bigmc69]

Don't think I want alum in salt. Anyone cheaper than Flea-Bay? PS I would love to drop a few pounds personally ;)


I have had EMI thnder manifolds on my engine for 6 years now and run in salt water no problems.

[hdsadey]

Hey Walt not to get off base but what is that black thing in front of your spark arrestor? Lookd like a accessory from a shop vac!

[Walt. H.]

Hey Walt not to get off base but what is that black thing in front of your spark arrestor? Lookd like a accessory from a shop vac!
Yes' that's exactly what it is or was, but now it's attached to it's matching shopvac hose and another 12-volt blower vent motor via one of my starboard side grill vents to bring in a little more cooler outside air directed at the carb rather then just relying on the normal opposing vent scoops to flow fresh bilge air in and out by forward movement for the engine to breathe, or by running the other required bilge blower that pushes bilge fumes out that you would use before starting your engine and when your moving at slow speed to prevent a build up of dangerous fumes.
It has also become a good conversation piece when someone spots it and I see their eyes focus and their head tilts one way then the other with a confused look followed with a question i'm ready to answer along with that flame arrestor that was at one time sitting on top of Geoo's engine in his Blue X-18 Mighty Mouse before it was Pro-Charged. :)
WH

[biggiefl]

Is this site really that slow or is it me?

Anyway the OEM aluminum intakes(carb & EFI) have brass inlays so they do not rot and why they cost so much. I had a Victor Jr on my Scarab and it lasted 3 seasons before it blew a hole at the thermostat. Heat and salt make MUCH more corrosion than a trailer being dunked in the water. I flush every time I use it or at least at the end of the weekend....outboards or I/O's. I just bought the boat last week so I am not looking to spend $2400 for a S/M setup. I just want new manifolds as my risers are OEM stainless. I figured if anyone knew a place cheaper than E-Bay for the GLM or ?? I guess I will order them tomorrow if I don't hear anything else. I boat in salt but my boat lives in brackish...almost fresh. If I can get 6 years....happy days! My block is a 1994 so I think I will hold off on the FWC system, who knows where I or the boat will be in 6 years.

[handfulz28]

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/HGE9011ALUM/ (http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/HGE7114ALUM/)
The HGE pieces have a 3 year warranty.
If you flush, aluminum should live longer. Worth the extra $50/side IMHO. Or save (sell) your stainless risers and buy the manifold/riser complete kit.
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/HGEBB4MER-ALUM/Aluminum (http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/HGESB4MER-ALUM/Aluminum)

I think Mercruiser's recommended interval for iron is 2 years/100hours. The problem with any of these, is more often they rot on the inside where you won't see it until it's too late.

[biggiefl]

I ordered the GLM's yesterday afternoon for $304 delivered. They were on my doorstep when I got back from lunch today:superman:must have brought them. The gLm's have a 3 year warranty and with flushing they will go at least 5-6 as my last set was 5 and still looked good(inside). I check my riser gaskets every season, for $15-20...why not. The GLM's are galvanized I believe as well.