View Full Version : V8 in a 16 install! Tips?

08-08-2011, 12:32 PM
I'm getting ready to drop the engine into my 99 16 in a couple of weeks. Wondering if anyone has some words of wisdom on how this can be accomplished? Took some measurements and not sure my shoehorn is gonna work! Do you have to leave off the exhaust manifolds to turn it sideways? I know many of you have lots of experience with this so any advice will be appreciated! Thanks Daniel.

08-08-2011, 12:51 PM

08-08-2011, 04:47 PM
First lots of tape and foam around the edges arounf the engine compartment..I have personally not put one in but from looking at one i would say set the engine in first then (sideways)put the coupler on and then the bell houhing and set it in place...it would be easier to set the engines aleignment with the engine still bare,,then start installing the missing pieces..

08-08-2011, 05:16 PM
I think your right on assembling the missing pieces later, fixx! The front of the engine I think is going to have to be fully built though because my measurements say that that stuff will be inaccesible after touchdown. Exhausts will have to be saved for after. Doesn't help that I'm 6'2" 240.

08-08-2011, 05:29 PM
Years ago, Rootsy posted a step by step procedure on the process.
Exhaust definately goes on after, or off before.
He also m entioned cutting a hole in the seat back for changing cams or water pumps.

Fluffy Foo-Foo
08-08-2011, 09:46 PM
I set the P/S pump and external water pump in the bilge piped and ready.
Motor drops in sideways and then you spin it in the boat. It's pretty obvious when you do it.
As mentioned you will NEED an access behind the seat to bolt on the P/S and water pump if you have them. It also helps to get to the crank to turn it over by hand with a breaker bar for timing and lifter install etc.

BTW I'm 6' 210 and i hurt afterwards from reaching, twisting, bending in ways I didn't know I could! First time was rough. Now that I'm more familiar with everything it's not so bad (yea, right!).

Good Luck!

PS Make sure you have mechanics magnets that extend. You may be going fishing in the bilge! I did several times!

08-08-2011, 10:45 PM
I am 6 foot but skinny, it is a tight squeeze, goes in side ways then turned into place. Has to be pretty well stripped, and yes it is very nice to have the seat back cut out. I had my 302 Ford in and out twice!


08-09-2011, 01:08 AM
From reading all these replys it almost sounds easier to just Pop the deck to do the engine install .
After all ~
You can also check & replace your old gas tank while the deck is still off.

08-09-2011, 08:58 AM
Yep I'm offically a dumbass!!!!! When I got the boat it had the cut out behind the backseat with a cheesy piece of plastic board screwed over it! Can y'all guess what I did? Filled it in all nice and pretty!!!!! Damn the OCD

08-09-2011, 08:51 PM
you can keep all the accy's on but not the exhaust . I am trying to remember but I think it has to be pointed to the port side and then spun forward after getting it into the bilge . i also rigged mine up so i could tilt it as well as turn it side to side . it helps with the p.s pump ... Remember , it wont drop straight in .. it has to be facing port .. maybe starboard but i am pretty sure port , and then turned .. its a pain in the butt !!

08-09-2011, 09:13 PM
It is not that bad. I pulled my 350 4 times in 2 years. I take the exhaust and using straps, hang them off the two rear cleats in the bidlge. Put the engine in sideways and then turn it while in the bildge. The exhaust is already hanging there, so bolt it up.

I also cut a nice 2 foot long, 1 foot high section from behind the rear seat cushion and screwed a piece of plywood from the inside of the bidlge. I make a really nice access to tightening things. You will find either the alternator or power steering pully will only be 2 inches from the rear bulkhead.

08-09-2011, 09:46 PM
My motor goes in with bell housing on and motor mounts. Remove alt. and bracket from top starboard side. I run a serp. system off a newer merc 4.3 drop the motor in bellhousing facing port, harmonic facing starboard. When she is down in the hole turn motor counter clockwise. I find motor needs to be perfectly centered. A tip for the timing on a sbc in a 16 to save cutting seat for access, is to mill a small slot in the top of the bellhousing and mark the flywheel with some white paint to match the slot at tdc. Then time the engine with an advance dial timing light. Also I have cut off an old drive shaft and welded a piece of heavy pipe and a 1/2 drive socket so I can turn engine over for what every reason required, of coarse the drive has to be removed. And as mentioned lots of protection around engine opening and exhaust off engine.