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mattyboy
08-04-2011, 07:28 AM
ok erased the old pics of the setup by mistake. so on the 280t trim connections coming into the bilge on the transom plate which is up and which is down??

Conquistador_del_mar
08-04-2011, 01:13 PM
I could let you know which hoses go to what trim pump ports, but I don't know which is the up and down hoses since I simply kept the same routing when I did a changeover on my Donzi. If this would help you, let me know. I had some major dental surgery yesterday, so it might be tomorrow before I could get out in the heat (110) to check for you. Bill

mattyboy
08-05-2011, 06:29 AM
Bill, Thanks that's all I need, don't rush feel better first . i just set the motor and have a ton of other stuff to keep me busy.

bzsmarina
08-05-2011, 10:24 PM
Outer is up, Inner down. Transome sheild will be sent monday. http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/VP_Schematics/GAS/AQ290A/CONNECTING%20COMPONENTS%20FOR%20TRANSMISSIONS/CONNECTING%20COMPONENTS%20AQ%20DRIVE%200.pdf

Conquistador_del_mar
08-06-2011, 07:20 PM
Bill, Thanks that's all I need, don't rush feel better first . i just set the motor and have a ton of other stuff to keep me busy.


Outer is up, Inner down. Transome sheild will be sent monday. http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/VP_Schematics/GAS/AQ290A/CONNECTING%20COMPONENTS%20FOR%20TRANSMISSIONS/CONNECTING%20COMPONENTS%20AQ%20DRIVE%200.pdf

Is this all the information you need? If not, I will still check the hose routing. Bill

mattyboy
08-07-2011, 08:36 AM
i think that's all I need

hope your feeling better Bill

Conquistador_del_mar
08-07-2011, 02:45 PM
i think that's all I need

hope your feeling better Bill

Most of the swelling has gone down, but having my two lower back molars removed and bone inserted in the sockets in preparation for implants is not a pleasant experience. My wife told me last night how goofy I was after the 3 hour surgery that should have taken only half the time (complications with one of the extractions). Apparently the Halcion made me a comedian - lol. If you end up needing the hose routing afterall, just let me know. Bill

mattyboy
09-19-2011, 01:41 PM
another question. The trim is working but I think the ears are binding up. the drive doesn't move smoothly in either direction and it makes like a racheting noise as it moves? any ideas?? not sure when the last time the ears moved could be years in a salt water environment.

Conquistador_del_mar
09-19-2011, 11:26 PM
If you can get someone to raise and lower the outdrive when you are listening at various points with a stethoscope, you can probably pinpoint the exact place where it is binding. My guess would be the pivot points, but it actually could be the ram seals themselves. Please report what you eventually discover. Bill

mrfixxall
09-19-2011, 11:47 PM
remove the pins going to the trim rams,try lifting the drive by hand,it its easy then the rams are most likely a bit seized..try pb blaster,,coat everything,,this stuff may loosen it up.

f_inscreenname
09-19-2011, 11:50 PM
Get that thing out of your boat and sell it to me. lol

Conquistador_del_mar
09-20-2011, 02:35 AM
Your 280T looks like this setup on my Donzi - correct? Bill

mattyboy
09-20-2011, 08:58 AM
yes Bill same setup.

freshly painted and was taken to the bare alum then primed and painted. We thought we might have painted something we shouldn't have. The drive when dis-engaged from the lock pin/ trim ears can be easily raised and lowered by hand with no noise or binding. The noise is definetly coming from the ear housing or the rams. we did extend the rams and tried to grease them then retract them . that seemed to soften the noise , I'll try spraying Kroil on everything and see what happens thanks guys! I'll keep you posted.

Conquistador_del_mar
09-20-2011, 01:11 PM
I wanted to make sure we had the same trim setup is why I asked. You already knew how easy it was to test the drive pivot pins by releasing the reverse catch. Isn't it sort of interesting how they designed the reverse catch to release if the drive hits something hard enough? I digress - lol.
My drive trim also make a little noise, but only when it is nearly at the top of the trimming so I would also like to find the culprit. Bill

Kirbyvv
09-21-2011, 09:59 AM
67944

I'm guessing the rams are the issue. I ended up buying two 280T transom assemblies to salvage the best workable parts. I had one ram that seemed to vibrate or bind a bit, but swapped it out. If they can get them apart most hydraulic firms could rebuild them.

mattyboy
09-23-2011, 09:09 AM
update:

I gave a good dose of aero kroil to all sides of the pin connections and the rams. ran it up and down a few times and the noise stopped. I'm not sure the kroil will be a permanent solution it will probably get washed away when wet.

Kirbyvv
09-23-2011, 11:24 AM
Hopefully you just needed to lube the seals on the pistons and all will be good to go.

silverghost
09-23-2011, 12:18 PM
Matty & Guys~
Aero Kroil is a great penetrating oil product.
Made b Kano products.
It comes in a rectangular oiler style can & a spray can.
I have been using it for 25+ years.
It's a little hard to find locally in many areas.

You must be careful using it however as
this great stuff will also badly swell-up many rubber tyes used in oil & water seals & hoses.

Always make sure not to drip , or spray on any rubber , or plastic items.

Conquistador_del_mar
09-23-2011, 06:55 PM
I gave a good dose of aero kroil to all sides of the pin connections and the rams. ran it up and down a few times and the noise stopped. I'm not sure the kroil will be a permanent solution it will probably get washed away when wet.

-------------------------------------------------------------

I tried lubing the same places with WD-40 this afternoon. One trip up and down, and the binding noise went away like yours. I also think it might be a temporary fix, but it worked for now - :yes:. Bill

BUIZILLA
09-23-2011, 07:03 PM
i've been using Aero Kroil since the mid 70's

the best there is

hard to get, ours comes out of a Nashville warehouse I think

mattyboy
09-27-2011, 09:58 AM
you can get it directly from them they have a personal google special not sure what they will do wholesale.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

the kroil was a temp fix good rain washed most of it away and the drive is back to making noise, I'll work on getting something a little thicker in there.

Conquistador_del_mar
09-27-2011, 01:18 PM
the kroil was a temp fix good rain washed most of it away and the drive is back to making noise, I'll work on getting something a little thicker in there.

--------------------------------------------------

Have you thought about using something different in the reservoir to help with lubricating the seals? Just a thought. Bill

dsparis
09-27-2011, 02:22 PM
Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.
*Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test.*

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *

Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ............ ......... 516 pounds
WD-40 ............ ...... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............ . 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all
now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is
about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *
*Your experience may vary, etc., etc.

johnnywhale
09-27-2011, 07:29 PM
But you can't beat the P'Blaster can - Dissolves styrofoam cups! - As seen on TV!
Worth the price of admission right there...