Paint The Deck!

[300EVIL]

Okay, I'm going a little further now... After pulling the carpet, i noticed there was extensive work to the whole floor with fiberglass mat and resin and completely rough and un-finished or painted.

So, what I decided to do is sand down the whole floor with an angle grinder until it's smooth and then paint the entire inside.

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t321/hightechstuff2/My%20Donzi/DSC_00051.jpg

The way I see it, I have two surfaces, the floor, which is bare sanded fiberglass/resin and the inside sides of the hull which are gelcoat sanded with 80 grit.

After a little research, I'm still not quite sure what paint to use. I want something that will bond properly, last a long time, be glossy, easy to clean and maybe hide some of the imperfections.

I need something that I can roll and brush on as I don't have a paint booth to spray at the moment. It seems like a 2 part urethane like this (http://www.ipaint.us/ur2urengrkit7.html) may be the way to go but I'm not 100% sure.

I also found this (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=119) stuff and it seems like it may be an option as well.

Opinions?

[mrfixxall]

Okay, I'm going a little further now... After pulling the carpet, i noticed there was extensive work to the whole floor with fiberglass mat and resin and completely rough and un-finished or painted.

So, what I decided to do is sand down the whole floor with an angle grinder until it's smooth and then paint the entire inside.

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t321/hightechstuff2/My%20Donzi/DSC_00051.jpg

The way I see it, I have two surfaces, the floor, which is bare sanded fiberglass/resin and the inside sides of the hull which are gelcoat sanded with 80 grit.

After a little research, I'm still not quite sure what paint to use. I want something that will bond properly, last a long time, be glossy, easy to clean and maybe hide some of the imperfections.

I need something that I can roll and brush on as I don't have a paint booth to spray at the moment. It seems like a 2 part urethane like this (http://www.ipaint.us/ur2urengrkit7.html) may be the way to go but I'm not 100% sure.

I also found this (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=119) stuff and it seems like it may be an option as well.

Opinions?

you want to use imron or awlgrip..if you want to go cheep go to your local Sherwin Williams store and get their marine polyurethane coating with the high gloss activator,,good stuff for about 120.00 a gallon with the hardener.

[300EVIL]

...if you want to go cheep go to your local Sherwin Williams store and get their marine polyurethane coating with the high gloss activator,,good stuff for about 120.00 a gallon with the hardener.

Bingo! That's what I'll do! I just can't see spending $250 a gallon for that awlgrip stuff. Yikes! :eek: Luckily I have a Sherwin Williams right down the road.
Thanks!

[joseph m. hahnl]

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/250_250/00002019.jpg (javascript: openBigImg();)

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=119&familyName=Interlux+-+Bilgekote

[mrfixxall]

Bingo! That's what I'll do! I just can't see spending $250 a gallon for that awlgrip stuff. Yikes! :eek: Luckily I have a Sherwin Williams right down the road.
Thanks!


Btw,,you want to paint the inxide of the boat rite ? and you want to leave the red alone?
make sure you get their reducer,its some pretty thick chit..almost thicker then latex.

[axelkloehn]

I need something that I can roll and brush on as I don't have a paint booth to spray at the moment. It seems like a 2 part urethane like this (http://www.ipaint.us/ur2urengrkit7.html) may be the way to go but I'm not 100% sure.


No, don't roll and brush... look for a place were you can spray, that should be your minimum approach for a boat like this, honestly! My opinion...

[Buddyc]

you want to use imron or awlgrip..if you want to go cheep go to your local Sherwin Williams store and get their marine polyurethane coating with the high gloss activator,,good stuff for about 120.00 a gallon with the hardener.
+1 and its easier to apply and covers much better than Bilgecoat. That still runs too easily and doesnt cover as well

[f_inscreenname]

Rust-Oleum from Home Depot and add a can of this. Just don't spray it unless you have a fresh air fed haz-mat suite.:yes:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41cDAd8SNXL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

[300EVIL]

Btw,,you want to paint the inxide of the boat rite ? and you want to leave the red alone?
make sure you get their reducer,its some pretty thick chit..almost thicker then latex.

That is correct, Just the inside. The outside will be done over the winter.

I went to Sherwin Williams today and identified the stuff you mentioned which is "Hi-Solids Polyurethane" Part A being $90 and Part B being $30 so I assume that's the stuff.

I talked to the manager about what I'm doing and he suggested I go with the "Macropoxy 646" instead as he says it will have better adhesion but not as good UV protection. He said I can use the epoxy as a primer and then go with the urethane over that but I really don't want to spend that much money or put that much work into it.

Most of the exposed area will be carpeted over while the bow, transom and bilge will be the only non-carpeted areas.

Should I take his advice and go with the epoxy or will the 2 part urethane be just fine?

Thanks for all the advice!
Adam

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/250_250/00002019.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>: openBigImg();)

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=119&familyName=Interlux+-+Bilgekote Hey guy first off jamestown dis are really over priced .

[mrfixxall]

That is correct, Just the inside. The outside will be done over the winter.

I went to Sherwin Williams today and identified the stuff you mentioned which is "Hi-Solids Polyurethane" Part A being $90 and Part B being $30 so I assume that's the stuff.

I talked to the manager about what I'm doing and he suggested I go with the "Macropoxy 646" instead as he says it will have better adhesion but not as good UV protection. He said I can use the epoxy as a primer and then go with the urethane over that but I really don't want to spend that much money or put that much work into it.

Most of the exposed area will be carpeted over while the bow, transom and bilge will be the only non-carpeted areas.

Should I take his advice and go with the epoxy or will the 2 part urethane be just fine?

Thanks for all the advice!
Adam

stick with the poly,,if your worried about adhesion just go and get some adhesion promoter or if your sanding it the paint will bite into the sanding..remember high gloss reflects heat in the engine bay,i try to use a semi gloss in their..this paint will dull back a little with a roller,looks better with a brush.. this stuff is as thick as honey and lasts a long time..

Warning,,make sure you use a resperator with this stuff,,it smells just like imron..

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

Hey guy Imron 555-U is great stuff for painting the Bilge , and all you need is Activator , a brush, and a bucket / paint /let tack for 15 mintues , apply another coat , wait 15 minutes , apply another coat, which usally is three - maybe four , at the most .Hey guy , the cool thing about using Imron, or Awlgrip , is that the bilge will never stain from Petroleum based products ..........such as oil , tranny fluids , gas , ext , ext , ext .

[mrfixxall]

Hey guy Imron 555-U is great stuff for painting the Bilge , and all you need is Activator , a brush, and a bucket / paint /let tack for 15 mintues , apply another coat , wait 15 minutes , apply another coat, which usally is three - maybe four , at the most .Hey guy , the cool thing about using Imron, or Awlgrip , is that the bilge will never stain from Petroleum based products ..........such as oil , tranny fluids , gas , ext , ext , ext .


Artie,,the paint i suggested is almost the same as imron,smells like it,reacts like it but its thicker..it will even fill 80 grit sanding marks and one coat will do what 4 coats of imron and awlgrip will do..it too is chemical resistant to oils fuels etc..its almost like gelcoat..

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

Artie,,the paint i suggested is almost the same as imron,smells like it,reacts like it but its thicker..it will even fill 80 grit sanding marks and one coat will do what 4 coats of imron and awlgrip will do..it too is chemical resistant to oils fuels etc..its almost like gelcoat.. Very cool , and to tell you the truth i will give it a try on a 38 Carver but will i be pushing mud with a brush considering you stated that this stuff is as thick as honey .........and does it yellow ..after a period of time ?

[joseph m. hahnl]

Hey guy first off jamestown dis are really over priced .


What's 2nd:wink:

$20 bucks a quart is a high price? he should be able to find it even cheaper.

had all positive reviews. I think GC used this stuff. so he'd know how durable it is. personally I don't see the need for two part epoxies for something your going to cover with carpet. But Then again I don't do fiberglass for a living:)



There literature


Bilgekote is a fast drying, durable coating formulated for application to bilge areas. Helps prevent absorption of oil, gasoline or sludge into wood and fiberglass.
Bilgekote protects bilges, lockers and bulkheads against moisture penetration and wear and tear. Bilgekote will resist oil and fuel spillage and cleans easily.
Main features are: High opacity for excellent covering power
Hard wearing
Available in gray and white, in quarts and gallons

[bobwpe]

Bilgecoat goes on easy and looks great initially but mine and a few others around here have yellowed over time.

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

Bilgecoat goes on easy and looks great initially but mine and a few others around here have yellowed over time. Just curious how does it hold up to stains from Petroleum based products and how long do you think it took to start yellowing , months , weeks , or years ?

[bobwpe]

It holds up against staining pretty well. The yellowing started within months for me, don't remember how many.

[Buddyc]

I think Rootsy used it on the bilge of the 18... It isnt as bright and cracks if the buildup is too high. Im guessing it was dont less then 2 years ago

[mrfixxall]

Very cool , and to tell you the truth i will give it a try on a 38 Carver but will i be pushing mud with a brush considering you stated that this stuff is as thick as honey .........and does it yellow ..after a period of time ?


no it does notyellow ! when mixing use a paint mixer on a cordless drill,,its like mixing latex..

[300EVIL]

stick with the poly,,if your worried about adhesion just go and get some adhesion promoter or if your sanding it the paint will bite into the sanding..remember high gloss reflects heat in the engine bay,i try to use a semi gloss in their..this paint will dull back a little with a roller,looks better with a brush.. this stuff is as thick as honey and lasts a long time..

Warning,,make sure you use a resperator with this stuff,,it smells just like imron..


Good stuff! thanks for the info. Yeah, I've been using a very good respirator over the last couple of days of sanding. I don't want that stuff or the VOC's in my lungs. :pimp:

[f_inscreenname]

Valspar Enamel Hardner gives your paint a tough finish that looks fantastic.
Increases gloss, hardness & durability
Reduce dry time

Makes any acrylic enamel into just like a 2 stage and dries hard in a couple hours instead of days. Half a qt in a can will dry hard in 2 days (don’t ask how I know). It also gets very hard. So hard that I used it on the bottom of my boat because I wanted the bottom black and could be touched up easy for bangs and scrapes. No bottom paint.
The best part is you can get rustoelum at Home Depot for like 35 a gallon and you can mix as you want to get the color you want. I used 2qts of flat white, 1qt of gloss white and 1qt of almond gloss. Looks like the color out of the factory.
(What I did) you can roll or brush and it almost self levels. You can put it on thick and it don’t run like spraying. Just to many benefits for me not to use.

[300EVIL]

Valspar Enamel Hardner gives your paint a tough finish that looks fantastic.
Increases gloss, hardness & durability
Reduce dry time

Makes any acrylic enamel into just like a 2 stage and dries hard in a couple hours instead of days. Half a qt in a can will dry hard in 2 days (don’t ask how I know). It also gets very hard. So hard that I used it on the bottom of my boat because I wanted the bottom black and could be touched up easy for bangs and scrapes. No bottom paint.
The best part is you can get rustoelum at Home Depot for like 35 a gallon and you can mix as you want to get the color you want. I used 2qts of flat white, 1qt of gloss white and 1qt of almond gloss. Looks like the color out of the factory.
(What I did) you can roll or brush and it almost self levels. You can put it on thick and it don’t run like spraying. Just to many benefits for me not to use.


Hmmm... Well for the price difference, that sure is enticing. I like rustoleum but am a little hesitant as most of the stuff used on boats is 2 part stuff. Also, I'm dealing with having to work on the boat outside. Having a fast cure is ideal for fear of heat and moisture issues. I'll have to look into this further and give it some additional consideration. Thanks for the info!
Adam

[300EVIL]

I did some more reading and pic hunting on Rustoleum jobs and I'm quite impressed!

Check out this thread...
http://www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/2-main-forum/32965-rustoleum-boat-paint.html

I'm pretty sure I will go this way. If I use rustoleum and the Valspar hardener should I first use a primer or just apply it to the sanded gelcoat and raw sanded fiberglass? Either way, I'll definitely do at least 2 or 3 coats just because it's so damn cheap.

[mrfixxall]

I did some more reading and pic hunting on Rustoleum jobs and I'm quite impressed!

Check out this thread...
http://www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/2-main-forum/32965-rustoleum-boat-paint.html

I'm pretty sure I will go this way. If I use rustoleum and the Valspar hardener should I first use a primer or just apply it to the sanded gelcoat and raw sanded fiberglass? Either way, I'll definitely do at least 2 or 3 coats just because it's so damn cheap.


rustoleum will turn yellow after a few years from the engine heat..first pic + it chips real easy,,second pic is a boat i did about a month ago with Sherwin Williams and that was only one coat..remember high solids covers more and you use less material..

[300EVIL]

rustoleum will turn yellow after a few years from the engine heat..first pic + it chips real easy,,second pic is a boat i did about a month ago with Sherwin Williams and that was only one coat..remember high solids covers more and you use less material..


PFFT.... Damn... You guys are going to make me flip a coin on this aren't you. :mad::tongue:

Well, You can never go wrong with the expensive stuff.... I guess...

Whatever I do I'm ordering tomorrow.

Decisions, decisions.....

[mrfixxall]

PFFT.... Damn... You guys are going to make me flip a coin on this aren't you. :mad::tongue:

Well, You can never go wrong with the expensive stuff.... I guess...

Whatever I do I'm ordering tomorrow.

Decisions, decisions.....


by the time you buy the rust and hardener its almost the same price as the SW poly paint... it covers in one coat,,the second pic is one coat and about 1/16'' thick..poly paint will flex with the boat,,acrylic paint will crack and chip off..

[Buddyc]

+1 Fixx. When you get good free advise, Take it.:)

[f_inscreenname]

All I can say is people are roller painting their cars with the stuff with good results.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&page=0&fpart=68&vc=1

[mrfixxall]

All I can say is people are roller painting their cars with the stuff with good results.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&page=0&fpart=68&vc=1


Do you beieve everything you read??:smash:

if it were that easy all the auto makers would be doing it to cut down on emmissions and to save a buck..

[f_inscreenname]

Do you beieve everything you read??:smash:

if it were that easy all the auto makers would be doing it to cut down on emmissions and to save a buck..

Just got done using it a month ago on my boat.
I use it with every acrylic enamel I use now. With it clear marine poly is dry in 25 minutes.

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

Do you beieve everything you read??:smash:

if it were that easy all the auto makers would be doing it to cut down on emmissions and to save a buck.. fixx , why are you getting your shorts in a bunch over Bilge paint and to tell you the truth i am going with Imron on two boats ......in the next few days , and Fixx , not to change the subject i have seen some very nice paint jobs this year using Awlgrip .....with a roller , and a brush ( tipping - method ) . Fixx , i met with the factory Rep and and CEO of Awlgrip who showed me a vett that was done in Awlgrip using the tipping method and you could not tell the difference , betwen the tipping method - or if it was sprayed . :yes:

[mrfixxall]

fixx , why are you getting your shorts in a bunch over Bilge paint and to tell you the truth i am going with Imron on two boats ......in the next few days , and Fixx , not to change the subject i have seen some very nice paint jobs this year using Awlgrip .....with a roller , and a brush ( tipping - method ) . Fixx , i met with the factory Rep and and CEO of Awlgrip who showed me a vett that was done in Awlgrip using the tipping method and you could not tell the difference , betwen the tipping method - or if it was sprayed . :yes:


Artie,,i'm not and could care less!! also i'm not doubting awlgrip,,its good stuff but way over priced in my eyes..why spend all that money just for a bilge when the SW paint does just as good of a job as awlgrip paint but half the work..may not be as shiny but we all know that the shiny paint reflects heat in the bilge and that's what you dont want for performance aspects.

[Buddyc]

fixx , why are you getting your shorts in a bunch over Bilge paint and to tell you the truth i am going with Imron on two boats ......in the next few days , and Fixx , not to change the subject i have seen some very nice paint jobs this year using Awlgrip .....with a roller , and a brush ( tipping - method ) . Fixx , i met with the factory Rep and and CEO of Awlgrip who showed me a vett that was done in Awlgrip using the tipping method and you could not tell the difference , betwen the tipping method - or if it was sprayed . :yes:
Im Spraying my boat with Imron and very firmilar with the product. I wouldnt use it in a bilge.. I was actually using thier faring compound today. bilgecoat isnt all that either... mine is yellow after less than 2 years.
Whatever this(tipping method) is I doubt it very much that you could brush ANY paint and have it look as if somone sprayed it? Unless the person doing the spraying was Mentally challenged. I dont know much , but what I do know is paint, weather it is a custom race boat with flames and graphics or if im painting my front door, every job has it uses, but to paint the outside of a boat with a brush is like watching my dog hump a lamp post... Sure he is getting the job done, but he looks stupid and makes a mess:bonk:

[hardcrab]

watching my dog hump a lamp post... Sure he is getting the job done, but he looks stupid and makes a mess:bonk:

That is funny !! :hyper:

now I have to wipe up the beer I spit on my desk

[joseph m. hahnl]

Whatever this(tipping method) is I doubt it very much that you could brush ANY paint and have it look as if somone sprayed it?

Looks pretty good in the pictures

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NKrw8iuQRs&feature=player_embedded

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

Guy's , there is a very big marina here that sells and services Sea Ray ,Hatteras , Tiara , Viking ,and bert and 75% of there bigger paint job's are done using the tipping method because it is a self leveling paint and to tell you the truth they had a segment on painting a boat using Awlgrip on Ship shape tv , and Joe , all i can say is......that you would have to see it to believe it because a lot of Marinas across the States & Europe are using this method with great success . Fixx & Buddy, getting back to using Awlgrip / Imron in the bilge area ~ which leaves a fantastic finish along with being very durable and lets not forget to mention that...... most high end Boat Co's , such as Skater , MTI , Outerlimit's , Nor Tech , Platinum to name a few are all using Awlgrip or Imron in the the bilge area and when we were building fountains at Skater Imron is what went into every bilge .

[mrfixxall]

Guy's , there is a very big marina here that sells and services Sea Ray ,Hatteras , Tiara , Viking ,and bert and 75% of there bigger paint job's are done using the tipping method because it is a self leveling paint and to tell you the truth they had a segment on painting a boat using Awlgrip on Ship shape tv , and Joe , all i can say is......that you would have to see it to believe it because a lot of Marinas across the States & Europe are using this method with great success . Fixx & Buddy, getting back to using Awlgrip / Imron in the bilge area ~ which leaves a fantastic finish along with being very durable and lets not forget to mention that...... most high end Boat Co's , such as Skater , MTI , Outerlimit's , Nor Tech , Platinum to name a few are all using Awlgrip or Imron in the the bilge area and when we were building fountains at Skater Imron is what went into every bilge .

Doesnt hurt to save a few bucks and try somthing new..

http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26346%3Aproduct-6890

[joseph m. hahnl]

Guy's , there is a very big marina here that sells and services Sea Ray ,Hatteras , Tiara , Viking ,and bert and 75% of there bigger paint job's are done using the tipping method because it is a self leveling paint and to tell you the truth they had a segment on painting a boat using Awlgrip on Ship shape tv , and Joe , all i can say is......that you would have to see it to believe it because a lot of Marinas across the States & Europe are using this method with great success . Fixx & Buddy, getting back to using Awlgrip / Imron in the bilge area ~ which leaves a fantastic finish along with being very durable and lets not forget to mention that...... most high end Boat Co's , such as Skater , MTI , Outerlimit's , Nor Tech , Platinum to name a few are all using Awlgrip or Imron in the the bilge area and when we were building fountains at Skater Imron is what went into every bilge .

I can believe it on your word. :yes:

Price seems to be the driving factor. He wants to spend as little as possible and still get the look of an expensive paint. I think that all and all bang for buck is what he's going to decide on.

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

Doesnt hurt to save a few bucks and try somthing new..

http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26346%3Aproduct-6890 Fixx , i have no problem with trying something new but if a customer ....prefer's Imron because it looks so nice ,easy to clean , and that is how it was done at the factory ( Skater ) so be it ........ to all of the above , and that being is ........we sometimes have to keep an open mind on how thing's are being done today and to tell you the truth as much as i spray Imron / Awlgrip , i will continue to do so .....if you know what i mean .

[mattyboy]

I am far from a painter's helper but I recently rolled a tipped my bilge with some PPG white paint sent by some guy :p IT CAME OUT AWESOME. I also used por 15 on the engine that stuff put on with a brush dries like ceramic tile you could shave by it and is tough as nails. I actually have a spot where I spilled that stuff on the floor it dried to like a half dollar I tried to scrape it off when it dried it came off in one piece with some of the floor. so I would imagine there are several different methods that would work .

[Buddyc]

Doesnt hurt to save a few bucks and try somthing new..

http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26346%3Aproduct-6890
Today saving a buck here and there helps bigtime. With that being said , I would think these big companies have contracts with companies like Dupont and awgrip. This painters are trained to work with it and I'm sure they get it at a price that none of us here can touch.
With having an average Joe that wants to redo the inside of his hull, than I think Mikes recommendation would yield the best results at a modest price.

[300EVIL]

Today saving a buck here and there helps bigtime.

You got that right... Alright, I made my choice....

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t321/hightechstuff2/My%20Donzi/DSC_0053.jpg

I'm going to start painting tomorrow. My plan is to do 2 coats with the roll and tip method.

A. What roller nap is suggested for the first and second coat?

B. Should I thin the rustoleum with acetone at all or just apply with the mixed in hardener?

C. How much time should I allow between coats?

D. Anything else I should consider or do?

In other news, the floor is all sanded and prepped for the new paint.

I pressure washed all the dust and debris out of it...

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t321/hightechstuff2/My%20Donzi/DSC_0028-1.jpg

Here is my dad repairing the tank hold...

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t321/hightechstuff2/My%20Donzi/DSC_0064.jpg

The previous - previous owner did something weird to the floor and never properly secured the hold to the floor. It's good as new now.

[f_inscreenname]

A. What roller nap is suggested for the first and second coat?
Cheap ones from H/D. You wil be throwing them away anyway. Also between coats roll the roller up in a plastic shopping bag. Helps it from drying out.
B. Should I thin the rustoleum with acetone at all or just apply with the mixed in hardener?
Mix in the hardener (I did a qt at a time so I would not have to much made up at one time). Then you have to let it sit for a half hour before applying it. What ever you don’t use in 8 hours … don’t use.

C. How much time should I allow between coats?
Dry to touch. About an hour on most days.

D. Anything else I should consider or do?
Don’t paint yourself in a corner.

[300EVIL]

A. What roller nap is suggested for the first and second coat?
Cheap ones from H/D. You wil be throwing them away anyway. Also between coats roll the roller up in a plastic shopping bag. Helps it from drying out.
B. Should I thin the rustoleum with acetone at all or just apply with the mixed in hardener?
Mix in the hardener (I did a qt at a time so I would not have to much made up at one time). Then you have to let it sit for a half hour before applying it. What ever you don’t use in 8 hours … don’t use.

C. How much time should I allow between coats?
Dry to touch. About an hour on most days.

D. Anything else I should consider or do?
Don’t paint yourself in a corner.


HA! Thanks! Yes, I have painted with rustoleum before but I just want to make sure I get somewhat of a decent finish. As for the roller, I was wondering how thick of an nap I should use to get a good fill without laying down too much paint. Yes, I know they are garbage worthy afterwards. LOL.

[mattyboy]

I used 4 inch foam rollers covered great just the right size to get into tight places and decent swath to not make the job go on forever. took me a gallon of paint and a qt of hardner ( for my paint)

[mrfixxall]

HA! Thanks! Yes, I have painted with rustoleum before but I just want to make sure I get somewhat of a decent finish. As for the roller, I was wondering how thick of an nap I should use to get a good fill without laying down too much paint. Yes, I know they are garbage worthy afterwards. LOL.

Time to poison your mind!! ok,when your rollin the paint on listen to the way it sounds....Sounds like a wet pu$$y dont it :eek:

[joseph m. hahnl]

Time to poison your mind!! ok,when your rollin the paint on listen to the way it sounds....Sounds like a wet pu$$y dont it :eek:

Left it wide open

http://s3.amazonaws.com/webjam-upload/open%20door___1a1d5cc12b5647309a94e1057f66a664(320 x480).jpg

I'll take the bait

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR2W7P1dBj0begsaG8XylYeZeK1AS49D NANbLMmHdviAi07iu46rg

I didn't hear! you got wet?:hyper:

[300EVIL]

HA! Too funny guys!!! :)

Painting was postponed for today. Way too busy with other crap but the plan is set for first thing tomorrow AM. Should go good now that I have all the info I need to do the job right. Thanks a lot for the help!

[300EVIL]

Before...

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t321/hightechstuff2/My%20Donzi/DSC_0001-1.jpg

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t321/hightechstuff2/My%20Donzi/DSC_0002-1.jpg

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t321/hightechstuff2/My%20Donzi/DSC_0006.jpg

After...

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t321/hightechstuff2/My%20Donzi/DSC_0030-1.jpg

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t321/hightechstuff2/My%20Donzi/DSC_0031-1.jpg

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t321/hightechstuff2/My%20Donzi/DSC_0033.jpg

First coat done! Still needs a second coat. I used 3/4ths of a gallon and did it in quart increments. It definitely takes some getting used to but it should be tough as nails.

[Buddyc]

Good for you, looks great

[Ghost]

Looks great. BTW, the motor cleanup looks fantastic too. I tried to avoid putting too many comments in the show-your-engine thread, but the before/after on your motor is something to behold. -Mike

[300EVIL]

Good for you, looks great

Looks great. BTW, the motor cleanup looks fantastic too. I tried to avoid putting too many comments in the show-your-engine thread, but the before/after on your motor is something to behold. -Mike


Thanks guys! It was supposed to be a "just get it running first" but once I dive into fixing something, I just go crazy. :bonk: I think I'll have it on the lake this weekend if I can stop finding things to fix. :kingme: