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RedDog
07-10-2011, 04:58 PM
Drive won't go up with trim switch but will go up with trailer switch. Don't have time to get it fixed soon. While on the water can I just use the trailer switch to trim the drive out?
What is likely problem - bad switch?

mrfixxall
07-10-2011, 05:46 PM
Drive won't go up with trim switch but will go up with trailer switch. Don't have time to get it fixed soon. While on the water can I just use the trailer switch to trim the drive out?
What is likely problem - bad switch?


could be the trim limit switch,,look for 2 black wires at the trim pump that come from the transm housing..unplug them and put the male and female bullet connectors together at the trim pump and try the switch..if it works then your good to go until you get the limiter switch repaired..

RedDog
07-10-2011, 07:09 PM
could be the trim limit switch,,look for 2 black wires at the trim pump that come from the transm housing..unplug them and put the male and female bullet connectors together at the trim pump and try the switch..if it works then your good to go until you get the limiter switch repaired..
Mr Fix. I may be a little slow here. Could you clarify? Unplug the wires and tie them together? Or hook them in some way to the trim pump?

PS - the the trim guage works if that means anything

gcarter
07-10-2011, 07:11 PM
You just have to be sure you don't trim too high because it won't have a limit, it'll keep going up.

DonziJon
07-10-2011, 07:56 PM
You need to climb down into the engine room on the port side and look for a wireing harness all wrapped in black tape...it's probably "wire tied" to the stringer...running aft. Cut ALL the tape off to expose the wires. There is no risk doing this if you are careful not to cut any wires. The reason for this is to be able to SEE the wire color codes.

If you are comfortable doing this.. post back and I will give you the color codes and next steps.

When done...You will be bypassing the circuit which is currently preventing you from trimming UP with the TRIM switch. The Trailer Switch won't work for trimming UP the drive while underway. George is correct: Once you bypass the circuit..you will have to monitor the "drive position" by Eyeball..because the Lift Limit Switch will be inactivated.

This is a LOT cheaper than having someone replace the WIREING from the Hockey Puck on the drive (Left side) to the harness Inside. :yes: DJ

MOP
07-10-2011, 08:37 PM
Don't worry too much about over trimming. If you were to over trim you would porpoise and more than likely blow the wheel out, I have non of that hooked up nor do I have the trim gauge it was replaced by a clock. Sea conditions and speeds are ever changing as will the trim of your boat, relying on given settings just do not work your tach and feel will always do a better job.

mrfixxall
07-10-2011, 08:46 PM
Mr Fix. I may be a little slow here. Could you clarify? Unplug the wires and tie them together? Or hook them in some way to the trim pump?

PS - the the trim guage works if that means anything


their are 2 set of black wires that come from the gimbal,,one set operates and tells the gauge where the drive position is, the other set tells the trim pump where to stop so you sont over trim as mentioned..the gauge set goes towards the engine harness and you wont need to worrie about that set of wires..the other set goes to the trim pump and both the trim limit switch sender has a male and female bullet connectors..pic one shows the limit sender unpluged from the trim pump..take the wires like in pic 2 BUT on the trim pump and plug them together like pic 2 BUT on the trim pump only so your trim switch works..if it still dont work then you will need to replace the trim switch in the handle..

RedDog
07-10-2011, 09:31 PM
You need to climb down into the engine room on the port side and look for a wireing harness all wrapped in black tape...it's probably "wire tied" to the stringer...running aft. Cut ALL the tape off to expose the wires. There is no risk doing this if you are careful not to cut any wires. The reason for this is to be able to SEE the wire color codes.
If you are comfortable doing this.. post back and I will give you the color codes and next steps.
When done...You will be bypassing the circuit which is currently preventing you from trimming UP with the TRIM switch. The Trailer Switch won't work for trimming UP the drive while underway. George is correct: Once you bypass the circuit..you will have to monitor the "drive position" by Eyeball..because the Lift Limit Switch will be inactivated.
This is a LOT cheaper than having someone replace the WIREING from the Hockey Puck on the drive (Left side) to the harness Inside. :yes: DJ

I always trim by seat of the pants rather than looking at the trim guage so over trimming is not a concern. Are you saying the trailer switch will not work when in gear and underway?

Walt. H.
07-11-2011, 02:05 AM
The trim limit switch has nothing to do with the trim gauge, the trim limit sw is located at the port pivot pin and the rheostat/trim sender is at the starboard side pivot pin, and if you had a OMC cobra or KC drive you would not have a trim limit switch anyway from day one of being new. Also most mercruiser dealers & repair shops will recommend to eliminate and bypass the trim limit switch when it goes bad to save you the expense of a needless repair, and heck most aftermarket replacement throttle/shift assembly's come only equipped with one trim sw anyway mounted in the throttle handle.

The best trim limit switch is you watching your GPS speedo & tach to obtain your best mph.
Just like you don't need a gauge or throttle switch to tell you when to slow down because the water is getting to rough, you know from your own experience.
WH

yeller
07-11-2011, 02:20 AM
I have the same problem. I've been trimming with the trailer switch for 5 years now. My local merc shop said it was probably just the limit switches were out of adjustment. Someday I might get around to fixing it

RedDog
07-11-2011, 12:30 PM
I have the same problem. I've been trimming with the trailer switch for 5 years now. My local merc shop said it was probably just the limit switches were out of adjustment. Someday I might get around to fixing it

That is the answer I was lookig for as I don't have time to repair it until August and the Chattanooga River run@ is later this month.

DonziJon
07-11-2011, 01:17 PM
I always trim by seat of the pants rather than looking at the trim guage so over trimming is not a concern. Are you saying the trailer switch will not work when in gear and underway?

I guess no one has been totally clear with their description of what's going on, when you bypass the Trim Limit Switch as Fixx described above.

We ARE NOT talking about trimming the drive while the boat is underway at speed. When you LIFT the drive, using the TRAILER Switch, (and the limit switch has been bypassed), the drive will continue to Go Up as long as you keep your finger on the button.

HOWEVER: Because you have disabled the Limit Switch as Fixx described.....the drive will continue to GO UP and will JAM itself into the transom assembly if you don't Eyeball the procedure each time, to prevent JAMMING. :bonk: We don't need no stinkin JAMMING. :shocking:

SO: WHY did we dis-able the Trim Limit Switch..???? We did this to REGAIN use of the Trim Switch (NOT Limit switch) on the throttle...so you can trim the drive AT Speed.

Don't ask me to explain WHY this procedure works. :bonk: DJ

PS: I have found that trying to TRIM the drive underway At SPEED using the TRAILER Switch simply does NOT work...IF it did, we wouldn't need a Sepaerate Trim Switch on the throttle.

roadtrip se
07-11-2011, 01:35 PM
So my Livorsi throttle includes no trailer switch, just a trim switch that serves both purposes. Works just fine and has for two seasons now...

My opinion is that you will be fine for the Gorge Run, Tim.

Fishermanjm
07-11-2011, 02:14 PM
RT, that throttle looks bad!!! how was the install on that? does that still use your origional cables?

roadtrip se
07-11-2011, 05:13 PM
RT, that throttle looks bad!!! how was the install on that? does that still use your origional cables?

Nice part is that it works as well as it looks. I am running four and five blades now, so I need the ability to throttle the boat or risk smoking a drive. Very smooth action. Mine took the stock cables. Brian Orlandi did the re-rig on the beast this time, but I did not hear him complain much on this piece, so I would say the install was fairly straight forward.

joseph m. hahnl
07-11-2011, 05:53 PM
The trim limit switch is to prevent the drive from coming out of the shoe.
Like Mop said you will blow the prop out before that happens. "Yes" It is all about feel:yes:. The adjustment is pretty simple if the switch is OK,But usually the SS screws corrode and that is where the difficulty arises. Broken screws that need to be drilled out and re tapped. Fresh water is more forgiving on the corrosion. Running new wire through the transom is pointless unless you are doing the bellows at the same time. Cut the wires and use the heat shrink connectors. If the screws come out of the switch with out a hitch it's a 15 min job to replace the limit switch. * note* The switch may have moved out of position and that is why it doesn't work.

I think if your pressed for time Go with Fix's By pass suggestion and leave the trailer button for trailering.

Understanding the concept of the switch. current flows from the trim button into the limit switch then out of the switch to the pump . You basically un plug the switch wires and connect the trim button directly to the pump.

DonziJon
07-11-2011, 07:53 PM
ALL this conversation is BECAUSE the "Lamp Cord" that the factory used to connect the Hockey Pucks (2) to the harness inside the boat ROTS OUT due to electrolisis, ..The Hockey Puck itself is Bullit Proof. You can take it apart and look at it. BOTh Hockey Pucks ... either side of the drive are bullit proof. It's the WIREING that Goes from the pucks to inside the boat that sucks. I'm DONE. :bonk:

When the wireing ROTS OUT..DO the Fix that FIXX described. :yes: ...Or hire someone to replace the wireing at YOUR Expence. DJ

Walt. H.
07-11-2011, 08:06 PM
ALL this conversation is BECAUSE the "Lamp Cord" that the factory used to connect the Hockey Pucks (2) to the harness inside the boat ROTS OUT due to electrolisis, ..The Hockey Puck itself is Bullit Proof. You can take it apart and look at it. BOTh Hockey Pucks ... either side of the drive are bullit proof. It's the WIREING that Goes from the pucks to inside the boat that sucks. I'm DONE. :bonk:
When the wireing ROTS OUT..DO the Fix that FIXX described. :yes: ...Or hire someone to replace the wireing at YOUR Expence. DJ

Exactly to the point & perfectly put!:yes::yes::yes:

joseph m. hahnl
07-11-2011, 08:52 PM
ALL this conversation is BECAUSE the "Lamp Cord" that the factory used to connect the Hockey Pucks (2) to the harness inside the boat ROTS OUT due to electrolisis, ..The Hockey Puck itself is Bullit Proof. You can take it apart and look at it. BOTh Hockey Pucks ... either side of the drive are bullit proof. It's the WIREING that Goes from the pucks to inside the boat that sucks. I'm DONE. :bonk:

When the wireing ROTS OUT..DO the Fix that FIXX described. :yes: ...Or hire someone to replace the wireing at YOUR Expence. DJ
http://www.theaccidentalnegotiator.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/barney-fife.jpg

MOP
07-11-2011, 09:10 PM
The pucks are nothing more than rheostats slathered with grease, without yearly cleaning and re-greasing they don't last they are far from bullet proof! Yes the wires usually rot after many years and several puck replacements!

Dr. David Fleming
07-12-2011, 11:21 PM
Of course there is always the situation where someone launches the boat with the drive up in trailer position and then shifts in gear to motor out to deeper water - then puts full power to it with out lowering into the shoe.

In this case the drive is not able to support the torque - the u-joints are at high angle - the torque can tear up the drive blow the joints - sink the boat.

Drive limit Switch is not there just to be a pain in the ass to everyone!

hdsadey
07-13-2011, 09:52 AM
I found that if you take the pucks apart, there are allen set screws that hold the wiring in the connection blocks. I was able to break them loose and replace the wiring with heavy duty 22 gauge marine wire. Cheaper than replacements and a better grade of wire hopefully lasting longer with proper maintenance.

RedDog
07-16-2011, 03:28 PM
their are 2 set of black wires that come from the gimbal,,one set operates and tells the gauge where the drive position is, the other set tells the trim pump where to stop so you sont over trim as mentioned..the gauge set goes towards the engine harness and you wont need to worrie about that set of wires..the other set goes to the trim pump and both the trim limit switch sender has a male and female bullet connectors..pic one shows the limit sender unpluged from the trim pump..take the wires like in pic 2 BUT on the trim pump and plug them together like pic 2 BUT on the trim pump only so your trim switch works..if it still dont work then you will need to replace the trim switch in the handle..

What I have is not like this. 1 set of black wires lead from the transom toward the trim pump - both have male bullet connectors. 1 plugs into a purple wire and I can't tell where it leads. The other plugs into a bright blue wire which then splits. One direction can't tell where it goes. The other one leads to the trim pump. At the trim pump is a cannon type connector with the bright blue wire, a red wire, and a green wire. Other than the power wires, that is all that leads to the pump

gcarter
07-16-2011, 03:35 PM
Tim, it'll be approximately (but not exactly) like this since your trailer switch is different (I think):

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5316&d=1092105918

gcarter
07-16-2011, 03:36 PM
You could make a double male end jumper to do the trick.

gcarter
07-16-2011, 03:39 PM
I gotta say Tim, that this is where your own personal private $25.00 manual comes in real handy!

RedDog
07-16-2011, 04:06 PM
I gotta say Tim, that this is where your own personal private $25.00 manual comes in real handy!
So jumper 14 and 15 together?

You know, I have been looking for my manual for 2 to 3 years. It just occured to me that the manual I had was for an OMC and went with my old 18 when I sold it. Doh!

gcarter
07-16-2011, 04:18 PM
So jumper 14 and 15 together?

Bingo!
I think all the Merc dealers and many bookstores carry the Clymer manuals.

mrfixxall
07-16-2011, 04:59 PM
What I have is not like this. 1 set of black wires lead from the transom toward the trim pump - both have male bullet connectors. 1 plugs into a purple wire and I can't tell where it leads. The other plugs into a bright blue wire which then splits. One direction can't tell where it goes. The other one leads to the trim pump. At the trim pump is a cannon type connector with the bright blue wire, a red wire, and a green wire. Other than the power wires, that is all that leads to the pump


sorry toolk a pic of the trim gauge sender,,yes jump 14 ans 15 and your all set..

RedDog
07-18-2011, 04:55 PM
Thanks guys! I jumpered the 2 together and the up trim works. Unfortunately while I have the time now to fix this properly, I have no income to spare on it. My backlog of consulting hours just hit zero and am scrambling to find some new work.

Guess I'll do some yard work tomorrow morning before the heat rolls in.

Dax McDavid
07-18-2011, 05:28 PM
This has been a very helpful thread...My "up" switch went out last summer...have just been using the trailer button like Yeller. Now I know how to fix it when I want to get my hands dirty.
Thanks

joseph m. hahnl
07-18-2011, 05:29 PM
Thanks guys! I jumpered the 2 together and the up trim works. Unfortunately while I have the time now to fix this properly, I have no income to spare on it. My backlog of consulting hours just hit zero and am scrambling to find some new work.

Guess I'll do some yard work tomorrow morning before the heat rolls in.

Do the screws come out ? If your not using it, It doesn't hurt to take it off and free things up so when you have the funds, you can pop it on.

Oh and you should do a continuity test on the wires.

mrfixxall
07-18-2011, 07:52 PM
Thanks guys! I jumpered the 2 together and the up trim works. Unfortunately while I have the time now to fix this properly, I have no income to spare on it. My backlog of consulting hours just hit zero and am scrambling to find some new work.

Guess I'll do some yard work tomorrow morning before the heat rolls in.


great news tim(trim up is working) i bet the old dog may go a little faster? we will see..

RedDog
07-19-2011, 08:03 AM
great news tim(trim up is working) i bet the old dog may go a little faster? we will see..

It only started acting up the last time I had it out. In fact, it would trim up a little and then stop going up. When I got home and tried it on the trailer it didn't trim at all.

Ranman
07-20-2011, 09:00 AM
I had a similar problem with my Formula. In my case, the "puck" on the gimbal ring that controls the trim limit was all gunked up with black mold/algae/slime/whatever. We were able to take off the puck (2 screws) and carefuly clean it out and get the contacts working again. Maybe you can do the same...

MOP
07-20-2011, 09:56 AM
If the wires are not broken mark the covers position and pull it off, inside you will find the wire wound rheostat. Note the position of the finger that rides on the rheostat it must go back in the same position to be within adjustment range. Use #600 grit to lightly clean the rheostat its finger, you will need to tear off a narrow strip to slide under the finger. Be gentle so as not to bend the finger up it can lose contact. Once done cleaning pack it with dielectric grease, regular grease will kill the ability of the finger to make contact.

RedDog
07-20-2011, 02:29 PM
I may try the cleaning route, but bought a new sender / limit set. Cracker Jack offered a heck of a deal - http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64594