Engine cranks but wont start

[Bobby D]

This is the first time I have had any trouble normally a few turns and she fires up. Yesterday I backed into the water turned the key and the starter engaged, the engine spun like normal but it would not fire up. I cranked it a few more times, same thing.
FWIW until 2 years ago I used my computer for a night light so go easy on me I can figure my way aground the old stuff but have very limited knowledge on EFI and all the stuff that goes with it. Could be something simple so before I default and go to a shop and have the engine scanned for fault codes world appreciate any advice or check list. It’s a 1998 5.7 GSI Volvo Penta with 230 hours on the meter.

[Sweet little 16]

saftey lanyard??

[pipnit]

are you getting spark? If so, it's a fuel delivery issue, if not, you know at least where the problems lies.

[DON N.]

Once mine did that and the my help disconnected my saftey
lanyard ( leave disconnected ) and it started right up . So then i got a new one .

[Bobby D]

The plan is to start troubleshooting the problem this weekend. I’ll start with checking for spark and go from there. I did check the kill switch lanyard and it was secure I also looked for loose wires and also checked the fuses and did not find any problem. What I did not consider was a defective kill switch so I will go back and check it out again as well

[MOP]

Safety lanyards with the tab on top of the button tend to loose pressure over time, I had to put a .010 shim under it to get it to make contact. Surely it will loosen again so I am thinking about getting a new one that lifts the button instead of holding it down.

[Bobby D]

Yesterday I performed simple trouble shooting and still don’t understand why the engine will not start?

CHECKED FUEL – low pressure fuel pump runs and injectors (2 each) spray into throttle body when the key is turned on.

CHECK for SPARK – plug and wire to the block I have spark, also followed the shop manual troubleshooting instructions and tested the ignition coil and distributor all reading were within the specs.

EXHAUST MANIFOLDS – look like new they were replaced shortly before I bought the boat and now have about 2 full season of fresh water only use.

PLUGS - pulled the plugs (see picture) they were installed about a year old.

COMPRESSION TEST-
Figured while the plugs were out I should do a compression test, I did not have a test kit with me so I asked the marina to do it this. Today I got the call from the marina and this is what they told me. The numbers are hard for me to believe.

Cyl 1 - 200
Cyl 3 - 200
Cyl 5 - 200
Cyl 7 - 200

Cyl 2 - 190
Cyl 4 - 15
Cyl 6 - 65
Cyl 7 - 200

Even if I have low compression I don’t understand why it wont start???

[hardcrab]

if those compression #'s are true, you have a bad head gasket

[pipnit]

Strange, it sounds like you have other problems going on there too. Maybe there is so much moisture or water in the cyl that is just won't fire?

[silverghost]

I agree that IF the compression readings are correct the head gasket is the most likely reason for the poor compression readings.

From the tests you describe the fuel & ignition systems seem to be OK.
This engine should start & run despite the two poor cylinder compression readings.

Are you sure that the ignition timing is correct ?
Was the timing moved for any reason ?

[DonziJon]

Yesterday I performed simple trouble shooting and still don’t understand why the engine will not start?
CHECKED FUEL – low pressure fuel pump runs and injectors (2 each) spray into throttle body when the key is turned on.
CHECK for SPARK – plug and wire to the block I have spark, also followed the shop manual troubleshooting instructions and tested the ignition coil and distributor all reading were within the specs.
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS – look like new they were replaced shortly before I bought the boat and now have about 2 full season of fresh water only use.
PLUGS - pulled the plugs (see picture) they were installed about a year old.
COMPRESSION TEST-
Figured while the plugs were out I should do a compression test, I did not have a test kit with me so I asked the marina to do it this. Today I got the call from the marina and this is what they told me. The numbers are hard for me to believe.
Cyl 1 - 200
Cyl 3 - 200
Cyl 5 - 200
Cyl 7 - 200
Cyl 2 - 190
Cyl 4 - 15
Cyl 6 - 65
Cyl 7 - 200
Even if I have low compression I don’t understand why it wont start???

Those numbers look fishy to me but that's just my opinion. My natural inclination would be to check the compression Again..starting with Cyl 4 and 6....AND do it MYSELF. :yes: After that, resume looking for the solution to original problem. DJ

[joseph m. hahnl]

Yesterday I performed simple trouble shooting and still don’t understand why the engine will not start?

CHECKED FUEL – low pressure fuel pump runs and injectors (2 each) spray into throttle body when the key is turned on.

CHECK for SPARK – plug and wire to the block I have spark, also followed the shop manual troubleshooting instructions and tested the ignition coil and distributor all reading were within the specs.

EXHAUST MANIFOLDS – look like new they were replaced shortly before I bought the boat and now have about 2 full season of fresh water only use.

PLUGS - pulled the plugs (see picture) they were installed about a year old.

COMPRESSION TEST-
Figured while the plugs were out I should do a compression test, I did not have a test kit with me so I asked the marina to do it this. Today I got the call from the marina and this is what they told me. The numbers are hard for me to believe.

Cyl 1 - 200
Cyl 3 - 200
Cyl 5 - 200
Cyl 7 - 200

Cyl 2 - 190
Cyl 4 - 15
Cyl 6 - 65
Cyl 7 - 200

Even if I have low compression I don’t understand why it wont start???


The white plugs are from 4&6 ? 2 dead cylinders:yes:.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65424&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1310400257 (http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65424&d=1310400257)


Before you go pulling heads,pull the valve cover, check the rockers and check for bent or broken valves/springs. You need to address the compression problem before you try to get it running. You don't want to crash a stuck valve on a piston . Is it a full sensor motor with an ECM ? if so, it may not know how to compensate for the 2 dead cylinders. This may be blessing in disguise.
http://us.ent4.yimg.com/movies.yahoo.com/images/hv/photo/movie_pix/columbia_pictures/the_master_of_disguise/dana_carvey/master8.jpg (http://us.ent4.yimg.com/movies.yahoo.com/images/hv/photo/movie_pix/columbia_pictures/the_master_of_disguise/dana_carvey/master8.jpg)

[Brad Lyon]

I had the same problem with my 18 once. Turned out to be so simple and stupid. I have two batteries, one cranked the motor and one supplied power to the EFI. The EFI battery was dead so it wouldn't start, but would crank and crank. Why it was set up this way from the factory is beyond me. I changed it to run off of one only battery. Problem solved.

[GeneD]

If those two white plugs are from 4 and 6...they are washed out from water.
You indeed have a blown head gasket. Though I agree that the motor should start.
Might want to try a shot of ether to see if the motor barks.
Secondly, I'd check to see how water got in there to blow the head gasket.
Check:
1. Exhaust flappers - if water entered through the exhaust, the center cylinders would be the first to see that water and blow the gasket.
2. Fuel filter - if the filter is full of water, the water may have blown the head gasket as water is incompressable.
Good luck...
This is about a $1000-$1200 job.