View Full Version : closed cooling system installed

06-21-2011, 09:39 AM
My colsed cooling system is installed,,, wasn't too bad of a job, my back is still screaming at me from being bent over leaning into the engine room. I am going to run it with distilled water for a few runs before flushing it out agin than filling with antifreeze coolent. It is a Monitor products kit, it did come with everything needed except for a smalll person to get down inside the engine compartment,,, I had to figure out some new hose routing and move the drive resevoir over a little bit, now i need to get the dam boat out on the water!!!

06-21-2011, 10:20 AM
Well done Jim! :)
I believe you'll be pleased and glad you did it..

06-21-2011, 10:26 AM
thanks george, and i did go with the full system,

06-21-2011, 10:38 AM
Looks good, nice work.

06-21-2011, 12:50 PM
The "on engine" version is a lot easier to install than the remote.

06-21-2011, 01:09 PM
That Monitor Products FWC system looks almost like the unit I installed on my old 454 HO .
Mine is half again longer.
The rubber end cap gaskets tend to pucker-up & distort. I finally got several new spare rubber gasket sets & glued them to the endcaps with 3M Weatherstrip adhesive. That cured the pucker issue.
Use anti sieze on the end cap's center bolt for easy future removal.
Make sure you change-out the zinc annode pencils and this unit will last forever.
If your saltwater/seawater pump ever throws an impeller blade you will find the loose rubber blade in one of the exhanger's end-cap clean-outs.
I use a 22 caliber rifle bore brush on a long rod to clean out the raw water heat exchanger tubes at the end of each season.
Winterizing a FWC closed cooling system is very easy.
Just remove the exchanger's end caps o dran te heat exchanger & drain your raw water pump & any oil coolers.
. These Monitor Products FWC heat exchnger kits are great.
You will love it ~~~& so will your engine's expensive castings !

06-21-2011, 01:26 PM
i will have to get the spare gaskets and anodes for future service...

George how does the heat exchanger work mounted to the floor? how does it fill?

06-21-2011, 01:43 PM
Any good local marine supply sells the zinc pencils.
Get the right size with the threaded brass plug combos.
I have to cut approx 1/4 " off the new generic zincs for fit. They bottom out if you don't cut them in my exchanger.
Use an ohm multi-meter to make sure you have a good electrical connection on the zinc's brass plug & heat exchanger housing.
The zincs & exchanger need a good electrical bond to properly protect the exchanger's metal from electrolysis errosion damage.

You can make your own end cap gaskets with 1/16" rubber sheeting.
Glue them on the heavy bronze end caps.
My dad used an old truck inner tube to make his own round gaskets with a 1/4" center hole.
He made dozens of them from one inner tube.

06-21-2011, 04:41 PM
George how does the heat exchanger work mounted to the floor? how does it fill?

Here's a schematic of the remote system. Since the thermostat is in the HE plumbing, water flows into the engine unhindered.
So the system is filled through the expansion tank. In the small hose connection between the tank and the engine top housing, the tank end of the connection must be higher to allow air to escape.


06-21-2011, 04:56 PM
ok i see now, didnt know about the seperate engine top housing,,, that makes sence that piece is the highest point, do you have to make up your own hoses and lenghts to reach the exchanger fittings?

06-21-2011, 05:22 PM
Yes, I'll be making up my own hoses. W/the electric circ pump, and the extra distance from the engine to the HE, there's enough differences to dictate that I do my own, I may even do them two or three times.....I tend to do that.