Anyone know anything about AMC/Jeep 304?

[Donziweasel]

Got an issue with a 1976 Jeep 304. Anyone know much about these engines?

[Carl C]

A little bit. It's an AMC built small block V-8. Pretty straight forward engine.

[Jraysray]

Had one in my 73 cj-5 / 3-speed. Never an isssue. What ya looking for?

[yeller]

Can you be more specific. I use to be an AMC fanatic. Not too much about AMC's I can't answer

[Donziweasel]

Bought a 1976 Jeep CJ 5 with a new rebuilt 304. Start is and I have 40 psi oil pressure. As the engine warms, it starts dropping. When fully warmed up, it is 0.

I am thinking 3 things.

1. The AMC 304 has a pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing that have been known to be problematic.

2. Bad sending switch or gauge.

3. Wrong lifters installed.

Just seeing what someone who knows more about the 304 thinks. I have never really messed with one.

[yeller]

Bought a 1976 Jeep CJ 5 with a new rebuilt 304. Start is and I have 40 psi oil pressure. As the engine warms, it starts dropping. When fully warmed up, it is 0.
I am thinking 3 things.
1. The AMC 304 has a pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing that have been known to be problematic.
2. Bad sending switch or gauge.
3. Wrong lifters installed.
Just seeing what someone who knows more about the 304 thinks. I have never really messed with one.

1) Another AMC myth. I personally have never had or known anyone that had a problem with the pressure relief valve. Not saying it couldn't go; I just don't think it's any more problematic than any other engine. At least if you want to change it, it is external to the engine so you don't have to drop the pan.

2) That would be the first thing I'd check. Test your pressure with a mechanical gauge.

3) That's something I've never heard of before.

It is possible the oil pump casings are badly worn. I have seen worn casings cause low oil pressure, but not to the extent you are mentioning. The gears don't normally wear out, but the cases are aluminum and can get scored. You can usually resurface the cover, but the main part of the pump is part of the timing chain cover and the whole thing will need replacing.

All in all, it doesn't seem that you have a problem that has a unique (to AMC) solution to it. The engine design may be mildly different than others, but in the end, (like Carl said) it's just a small block V8.

I PM'd you my number in case you want to call.

[fogducker III]

I concur with Yeller.....I also am an AMC fan, had lots of Jeeps, a Matador, Javelin and even a Pacer...:eek::yes:

258 straight six was one of the best low end grunt motors going, 304, 360, 390 and the 401 all have their pro's and cons......

Your issue with oil pressure "might" be simple, have you checked the gauge and sending unit? How long has it been run when it hits "0" oil pressure?

Very strange that it starts off with OK pressure and then drops like that.....if it is not the gauge or sending unit, I would hazard a guess that the oil pump is on the way out.....:confused:

[hardcrab]

I had a 304 in my '72 CJ5 - I had an issue once where the timing chain had enough lash in it to wear a hole in the cover plate, thus losing oil pressure.

[Donziweasel]

Figured it out. When the block and oil was cool, the oil pressure was good. When it heated up, where the ferral for the oil pressure gauge connected to the block started leaking like a bastard.

[Carl C]

Figured it out. When the block and oil was cool, the oil pressure was good. When it heated up, where the ferral for the oil pressure gauge connected to the block started leaking like a bastard.

You got us all worked up for nothing :nilly:. Kidding, glad it was minor. That is a very dependable engine. A lot of people don't know that AMC made a lot of their own engines.

[Donziweasel]

Don't worry, I am sure I will have more questions. Oil pump in timing cover is a little different.

[Carl C]

Don't worry, I am sure I will have more questions. Oil pump in timing cover is a little different.

I forgot about that. You know I was an AMC, Jeep, Renault mechanic for 10 years. Most of it at Rose in Michigan. I rarely had to go into a 304 and I was the heavy repair guy too.

[silverghost]

Carl~
Did you ever do any work on the old AMC 287 & 327 V-8 that were used as the basis of the Graymarine Fireball V-8 marine engines.
That was AMC's first V-8 engine 1957-1970 I believe ?

[superhatz]

Love AMCs....have a 1970 Donohue Javelin in restoration.

:)

[Carl C]

Carl~
Did you ever do any work on the old AMC 287 & 327 V-8 that were used as the basis of the Graymarine Fireball V-8 marine engines.
That was AMC's first V-8 engine 1957-1970 I believe ?

That was before my time! I remember the 304, the 360 which some peeps thought was the Chrysler engine but it wasn't, The 390, no relation to Ford and the 401 big block. The 4.0 straight six was a good engine except for eating cams sometimes and Chrysler kept that engine for some time after acquiring AMC. They also used the GM 4 cyld. "iron duke" and 2.8 V-6. Both pieces of $hit.

[Kirbyvv]

Another AMC fan here. I've got a '78 CJ7 with a 304 that I bought new in December 1977. It has been garaged for 10 years, waiting for time to play with it. Tranny is shot. Too much time playing with my '78 X-18.

[HOWARD O]

Hey Weasel! Another 304 Jeep guy here. Just bought a '78 CJ-7 a few weeks ago. I don't think it's going to be a 304 for very long though. :cool:

[Carl C]

Another AMC fan here. I've got a '78 CJ7 with a 304 that I bought new in December 1977. It has been garaged for 10 years, waiting for time to play with it. Tranny is shot. Too much time playing with my '78 X-18.

Automatic? It's a Chrysler trans and pretty easy to rebuild.

[Fishermanjm]

Hey carl,,, i will never forget my Renault days, Alliance, Feugo's, 18's, Lecar,,, i remember doing plenty of cylinder o-rings and trans overhauls, oh yea Renaults,,, lots of $$$ made on them

[yeller]

...and the 401 big block.
Sorry Carl, have to correct you. AMC never made a big block. The 290, 304, 343, 360, 390, 401 were all small blocks and identical externally. The nice thing about that is that you can swap in bigger engines without any mods.

[Carl C]

Hey carl,,, i will never forget my Renault days, Alliance, Feugo's, 18's, Lecar,,, i remember doing plenty of cylinder o-rings and trans overhauls, oh yea Renaults,,, lots of $$$ made on them


Sorry Carl, have to correct you. AMC never made a big block. The 290, 304, 343, 360, 390, 401 were all small blocks and identical externally. The nice thing about that is that you can swap in bigger engines without any mods.

Yup, you are right! I started as an AMC, Jeep, Renault mechanic about 1981 and gave up wrenching in 1993 so it's been awhile. Also, by 1981 not many people were taking their older vehicles to a dealer for repairs so most of my experience is on the Renaults and small Cherokee/Wagoneers and CJ-7s. I rebuilt a ton of Chrysler and GM Turbo 400 transmissions as that was my specialty. Heavy repairs. Did lots of wet sleeve Alliance engines too. What a messed up career choice. I'm glad I got the balls to walk away from a career when I was 39 years old and I've only worked part time for myself since. :) Hey, Fishermanjm, speaking of LeCars. They used to call me LeCarl.... :)

[Donziweasel]

Seems everyone is buying CJ's lately. Well, below is a pic of mine. CJ5, 305, 3 spd. 375 miles on rebuild. New paint. I have plans for it, BIG plans.... :)

Yeller, thanks for the offer to help me, trust me, I am going to keep your number handy, I am sure I will need it!

[yeller]

DW..sent you a PM. Tried to send you a second one, but your box is full.

This link sounds exactly like what you are experiencing:

http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/wagoneer/401/

I would hope this isn't your problem, but maybe your rebuilt engine...isn't. :frown:

[BUIZILLA]

interesting comments about the cam bearings and undersized cam journals.. there's a huge hemorrage possibility right there

[Donziweasel]

I thought I had found it. The tube to the oil pressure gauge was against the manifold and had burned. Replaced and still crappy oil pressure. 40 at startup, 4 when warm at idle (650 rpms) 25 when reved.

Checked with a bunch of sites and found a few things. Remember, this engine is a "fresh" rebuild with 325 miles.

1. On the oil filter housing there is a bolt. Inside the the oil pressure relief valve. It has been know to be very problematic and can stick open or closed.

2. Oil pump tolerances. This does have a new timing cover.

3. Oil plugs. 2 under intake, 2 behind timing chains.

4. The usual suspects, cam bearings and possible wrong lifters.

Not sure where to go from here. Really don't want to tear down the engine. Hell, I really am not in the mood to take off the intake just to check a few plugs. Oil pressure relief valve would be first.

Another option is to run it till she blows and get a 360 or 401. 401's are getting hard to find though.

[zelatore]

I hate to say it but that just sounds like a tired old engine. I've seen old V8s (not AMC, but you get the idea) with good oil pressure when the oil was thick that dropped down to about 10 psi at 800 when hot. Usually bearing clearances and/or oil pump clearances.

On those old V8s, I used to go by the rule of thumb '10 psi per 1000 rpm'.

You have a pretty low idle, but that's still low pressure. If you don't want to tear it down, maybe just change to a heavier oil (straight weight 40 maybe? - not so good in your winters though) and run it until she dies. I bet you'll get a lot of miles out of her still.

[BUIZILLA]

just because the cover is new doesn't mean there isn't an issue there... were the gears replaced? or are the old gears good? the gear to cover clearance should be .002-.003, no more than .004, that is measured against the gear face to cover face, and also the gear tooth to cover radii bore

unfortunately, the cheapo world has a much different vision of rebuilt than yu or I... no telling what they didn't replace or check..

[Carl C]

I was thinking worn main bearings too.

[hardcrab]

Won't hurt to pour in some Lucas Oil Treatment and see how it acts

[Fishermanjm]

AMC engines were never known for having lots of oil pressure, even when they were new, 15psi at idle is just about all u will see, yes u will get 40 at cold start up, then after warmed about 15 psi,,, u are way under that are you using a mechanical guage? or the factory set up? chrysler engines are the same, they just did not put much into the engine having lots of oil pressure or tight engine tolerances, i am dealing with 3.3,3.5 3.8 v6 chrysler engines that the factory tells me that one quart od oil in a thousand miles used is ok,,,, OK??? NOT OK,,, but thats how they build them, low oil pressure, i had my ram truck engine done over, blue printed, back to better than factory specs it has about 22psi on a hot engine now, still just a little better, but better, it gets up to 50 0r so reving or on the hi way

[Kirbyvv]

When I parked my 1978 CJ7, with 304 V8, it had 140,000 miles on it and used about 1 qt in 800 miles. New it was about 1 qt in 2,000. My routine was when it was time to add the second quart between changes, it was time to change the oil.

[Donziweasel]

They supposedly replaced the mains. I have the bill, but it does not tell me much. New timing cover. Bill was 1,200.00 which means whatever they did in the rebuild was not real extensive.

I agree. Most shops that churn out tons of rebuilds do crappy work. I would say 90% of the crap you find out there and on places like Ebay are pieces of chit. That is why most only give a 1 year warranty or even 6 months.

I want to find a tired 360 or 401 and rebuild it myself, but summer is here and I am not in the mood to mess with it.

I am going to check the pressure release valve first, then maybe the plugs in the timing cover and intake. I read you can get the lifters out of a 304 without pulling the heads also, might also be on the list. Probably will fire it without valve covers on and see what come out from the rods.

Another thing I read about a AMC SB vs a Chevy or Ford is you aren't supposed to bore them anymore than .02 for some reason. Probably one of the reasons 401's are hard to find. Plus, they didn't make as many as the 360 or 304. I am still getting use to the sight of the distributer hanging at a 30 degree angle out of the timing cover. :)

BTW, what did AMC use for a Carb? Mine has an Edlebrock, pretty small, maybe 500cfm.

Any other suggestions greatly appreciated. Never messed with an AMC small block.

[yeller]

I want to find a tired 360 or 401 and rebuild it myself, but summer is here and I am not in the mood to mess with it.If you can't find a 401. I'm sure you'd be happy with the 360. They are awesome motors.

I read you can get the lifters out of a 304 without pulling the heads also, might also be on the list.Yes you can...but is that unusual? I'm sure I've pulled the lifters on my SBC without removing the heads.

Another thing I read about a AMC SB vs a Chevy or Ford is you aren't supposed to bore them anymore than .02 for some reason. Probably one of the reasons 401's are hard to find. I can't remember about the 304/360, but you can bore a 401 30 over, but you can't go 60 over. 304/360/401 were the same block. Only the bore/stroke is different. By time they bored for the 401 there wasn't much left over for overboring. I'm sure there would be enough meat to go 60 over on a 304/360.

I am still getting use to the sight of the distributer hanging at a 30 degree angle out of the timing cover.Hey, at least it's easy access. I never did understand putting the distributer on the back of the engine.

BTW, what did AMC use for a Carb? Motorcraft.

Any other suggestions greatly appreciated. Never messed with an AMC small block.Get a 360, install a mild cam, an Edelbrock R4B intake (dual plane) and 600~650 carb and you'll be happy. Don't bother with headers because the ports are always horribly off. You're better off sticking with the stock exhaust. Because of AMC's dogleg exhaust port, header manufactures would simply take a square port design and "crimp" one corner to get the dogleg. Port match would often be off by 1/4". There use to be one company that made headers that port matched, but they were close to $1000 back in the 70's. Can't remember who they were. Don't know if anyone makes a good header for AMC's anymore. If you can find exhaust manifolds off an early 70's 401 vehicle, they'll flow way better than the 304 manifolds (which were very "log" style).

[Carl C]

A lot of guys put SBCs in the old jeeps. You can buy adapter kits. If you want to stay all AMC all the better IMO though. It depends what you're looking to do.

[Fishermanjm]

Black Jack headers,,, they made inside frame and outside frame headers for CJ's
I got both types when I did my jeep over
an ended up using the wheel well or outside
frame units. Gibson exhaust also makes a real nice header for Dodge an old jeep stuff I have the Gibson's on my ram truck. Pull the intake off the jeep engine an the lifters are right there. Chevy is the same way. I think???

[Fishermanjm]

17 years ago on a thanksgiving day morning, my
brother-in-law an myself were going on our anual
turkey day morning hunt I was getting off the
hi-way as soon as I got on the frosty over pass, my
jeep got sideways when I accelerated we did a 360 on the
overpass then flipped three an a half times when the
left ft tire hit the sidewalk curb on the bridge
myself an brother in law, and my dog all stayed in the vehicle.
Thank god we had seatbelts on. My golden retriever
ended up licking my face as if to say let's get the hell out
of here,,, New fenders, hood, grille, top, and full roll cage
an it's back in business. Just be careful opperating CJ,s
off-road they are beasts

[Carl C]

17 years ago on a thanksgiving day morning, my
brother-in-law an myself were going on our anual
turkey day morning hunt I was getting off the
hi-way as soon as I got on the frosty over pass, my
jeep got sideways when I accelerated we did a 360 on the
overpass then flipped three an a half times when the
left ft tire hit the sidewalk curb on the bridge
myself an brother in law, and my dog all stayed in the vehicle.
Thank god we had seatbelts on. My golden retriever
ended up licking my face as if to say let's get the hell out
of here,,, New fenders, hood, grille, top, and full roll cage
an it's back in business. Just be careful opperating CJ,s
off-road they are beasts

It's the short wheel base. They spin out very easy. Glad you were all OK. That had to have been really scary. They are a lot of fun off road but don't jump them or you'll bend 'em!

[hardcrab]

I rolled mine on a grassy airfield landing strip (of all places)

- just turned right a little too abruptly @ 30 mph -

only injury was a smashed finger where someone had ahold of the roll bar. :angel:

[Donziweasel]

For exhaust I am looking at this package-

http://www.amazon.com/88-2106-Performance-Exhaust-Including-Headers/dp/B00133L13S

Yes it is cheap, but some guys on jeep forums like them. This will not be a daily driver.

Got to clean and prep 7 used Argos I got in, so I might not get to deal with the Jeep today.

[Donziweasel]

Alright, couldn't take it and looked at the pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing. Not sure what is supposed to be in there, but a big spring came out and two small nuts. What exactly is supposed to be in there? Took out the nuts and reassembled, pressure still sucks.

[mrfixxall]

Alright, couldn't take it and looked at the pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing. Not sure what is supposed to be in there, but a big spring came out and two small nuts. What exactly is supposed to be in there? Took out the nuts and reassembled, pressure still sucks.


they put the nuts in their to act as shims..to try and bump up the oil pressure..guess it didn't work,most likely it may be a bearing clearance issue.

http://medford.craigslist.org/pts/2388814041.html

[BUIZILLA]

fixx found ya a deal :convertib:

[silverghost]

To me it does not sound like they did anything to the bearings in the so-called $1200. "Rebuild" .
Did they actually grind the crankshaft undersize and then use the proper oversized bearing shells ?
It does not appear to be so ?
Most low oil pressure issues are worn bearing related.
Does the oil pump also have wear & clearance issues ?

[yeller]

Alright, couldn't take it and looked at the pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing. Not sure what is supposed to be in there, but a big spring came out and two small nuts. What exactly is supposed to be in there? Took out the nuts and reassembled, pressure still sucks.The seller definitely knew there was an oil pressure problem when he sold it to you if you found a couple nuts under the spring. As Fixx said, they did that to increase the spring pressure to hopefully build the oil pressure. Here's a pic of the entire assembly:

[yeller]

...and Fixx did find you a good deal (providing the engine is still standard bore). That's a lot of stuff for that price.

[mrfixxall]

DW remove the oil filter, cut it open with tin snips and inspect the filler for metal particles,,if it spun a bearing at one time their will be some in the filter.

[BUIZILLA]

John, did you remove the relief valve and make sure it was installed in the right direction?

is there spring tension BEFORE the cap threads start into the housing?

also, what thickness is the cover gasket? memory says the thin plasticized gasket is .002?

lifters not being noisy is wierd in itself

[Donziweasel]

Plenty of spring pressure before the bolt goes in the housing. It was a bitch to get back in. Around the bolt was a thin metal washer.

[BUIZILLA]

might be too long of a spring, it's coil bound, and the valve is restricting the flow, shouldn't be THAT hard to get back together... call me AFTER I wake up.. :wrench:

[Donziweasel]

Mike, thanks for the tip on the 401. Wish I had the cash. Will cut open the filter today.

Jim, wake the hell up then.....

I could put the bolt in with one finger, but it was pretty damn stiff. The bitch was getting the treads to catch.

Imagine my surprise when I opened it up and found 2 loose small nuts in there. I immediatly knew something was up.

[Donziweasel]

Glen, thanks for the schematics on the oil filter assembly. Any idea on how to get the actual oil pressure relief valve out?

[yeller]

Glen, thanks for the schematics on the oil filter assembly. Any idea on how to get the actual oil pressure relief valve out?Sorry John, I can't remember whether I ever took one out or not. I've had plenty of the pumps apart, just can't remember pulling out the individual pieces. It's been quite awhile.

That 401 is a good deal but it's easy to get caught up in the HP wars. The 304 is still plenty of motor for a CJ5.

Back to your headers....I personally wouldn't bother. It's been twenty years since I've physically worked on any AMC, but back then, not one of the major header manufactures made a header that improved flow. All actually hindered flow. Since AMC died over 20yrs ago, (and there is even less interest in AMC's) I'd be very, very, surprised if the quality is better. I have had more than one set of headers that I could not seal because the port was so poorly mismatched. A benefit to using the stock manifolds is it allows the exhaust to be tucked up higher, which is what you want when wheeling. Besides, even good headers aren't going to make a difference on a virtually stock motor.

[mrfixxall]

Glen, thanks for the schematics on the oil filter assembly. Any idea on how to get the actual oil pressure relief valve out?


if you cant get it out with a transmission snap ring pliers then put a oil drain pan under it and slightly tap the ignition,the oil pressure will blow it out..a little messy tho!

[jb33]

Couldnt resist. joined your forum.

I had a 360 with the same thing. long story short I went through hell and never did find the culprit. rebuilt oil pump to spec/tolerances. blabla only thing I didnt do was look at the rotating assembly. figured if I needed to it wasnt worth it.

found a wagoneer with a 360 for nothing and stuck that in. cheap solution. Check out IFSJA.org TONS of AMC info. someone said AMC never did have good pressure?? My cj5 has a 304 with mechanical oil guage and it sits at 30-35 idle and 60 cruisin. with 60k on the engine.

Or I got a 401 sitting in the garage but I want to put that in my Formula 242. <---anyone tried that before?? Oh yea thats what I was doing on here!

[Donziweasel]

Alright, found something interesting. Not sure if it matters, but what the hay.

I removed the entire oil filter housing. The pressure release valve seems fine, but if you look on Glen's schematic, behind the filter adapter is the oil filter bypass valve. Mine is missing. Nada, zip zero. No spring, just and empty hole. Would this affect oil pressure?


The 304 is still plenty of motor for a CJ5.

Yeah it is, even at my altitude. I think a 360 would be a nice upgrade, plus the made TONS of them, more than even the 304 or 390......... :)

Jim, message left, WAKE UP!!! :)

BTW- here are a couple of better pics of the PITA-

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w190/johnnyalltrans/IMGP0446.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w190/johnnyalltrans/IMGP0445.jpg

[yeller]

Alright, found something interesting. Not sure if it matters, but what the hay.
I removed the entire oil filter housing. The pressure release valve seems fine, but if you look on Glen's schematic, behind the filter adapter is the oil filter bypass valve. Mine is missing. Nada, zip zero. No spring, just and empty hole. Would this affect oil pressure?
This is where my mechanical knowledge fails me, but I would think that is your problem. You should have a spring and a small 'disc' in there. The disc completely blocks the passage until the oil overcomes the spring pressure. Without the bypass valve, you are fully bypassing the oil filter. As far as your oil is concerned, the filter is a restrictor...and restrictors increase pressure. I'm sure Fixx or Buiz will correct me if I'm wrong.

Oh, and BTW; the 'bolt' for the the pressure relief valve is pretty tough to put on. By your explaination, it sounds normal.

[mrfixxall]

with it totally gone it may make a differance with it being so close to the oil pump and just dumping it back into the oil pan..get the rite sice freeze plug for now and tap it in their and see if your pressure goes up.all that valve does is bypass the oil filter..
Before you block it off make sure theirs 3 holes their and its not the oil to pan return hole.

[Donziweasel]

Thanks Mike, I am now looking at it and think they actually had the block off from Bull Tear already in there.

What I can't get, is when it is at 0 psi at idle, the lifters are not making a bunch of racket.

Cut open the oil filter and ran a magnet throught the oil after dumping it. Not, much if anything in it.

[Carl C]

Pull the oil pan and plasti-gage the main journals. That's usually where the pressure goes.

[yeller]

DW, any update....or are you just going to sell the Jeep with the company? :)

[Donziweasel]

Glen, had to put it on the back burner for a few days. Boo Boo had me messing with the yard. I also started an Argo rental program and had to service 7 Argos. The weather hasn't exactlly been stellar either for Jeeps.....

I did order a .007 oil filter housing gasket, new oil pump shaft and gears, new bypass plug that came in yesterday. Will probably mess with it Sunday.

[Donziweasel]

Got the pil pump parts put in and still low/no oil pressure. I pulled the valve covers and cranked it. The cylinder on the back drivers side was doing something funky. While all the others were drizziling oil out of the top of the rods, that one was squirting oil so far it went out of the engine bay. Hmmm.....

Pulled the intake and felt all the rods. That particular rod was moving side to side, not much up and down, but definetly side to side. It was not seated in the lifter for some reason. Pulled the lifter and it looked fine. Not sure where to go from here. You can't adjust the valves. Might be in for a set of rods and lifters. I am pretty sure this is it though.

Crappy rebuild to say the least. All my rods have silicone on them in the middle.

[yeller]

Hope you found the problem. I was l little leery of mentioning the oil pump being the problem, because I wasn't very confident it was the culprit. Hopefully I didn't mislead you that way. Sorry if I did.


One thing I am confident about.....and I'm trying to save you money....is don't buy the headers (at least not without investigating fitment first). Any set I've ever seen has been at least 1/8" smaller than the exhaust port. And that's a minimum. I've seen them 1/4" smaller. Usually you have to make your own gaskets so they will seal properly. They are always smaller on the "dogleg" portion of the port and the dogleg portion is what makes these heads flow so well for their size.

Now it is possible the newer ones have improved, but I would confirm with someone that has a set that they've check the port sizes for fit before you buy.

[yeller]

John, I need my AMC update.
Are you running yet? Was the lifter the problem?

[Donziweasel]

Built a nice 360 (that fought me the whole time)for the jeep and decided to replace the clutch while the engine was out. I can not for the frickin life of me get the throw out bearing on the tranny shaft. It goes on a little, gives, then goes click and will go no farther. Any ideas? Thanks.

[Fishermanjm]

make sure the input shaft colar doesn't have a groove worn in it, that is a huge problem with mechanical clutch linkage on jeeps

[Donziweasel]

No groove, shaft is very smooth. How far down should it go? Should it completely clear the splines?

[Fishermanjm]

the throw out bearing does not ride on the splines it rides on the colar or the nose cone, it should slide all the way to the trans housing the friction disc rides on the splines, so it will go past the splines,,, not sure if that makes sence, the nose cone (colar) bolts up to the ft. of the trans and goes over the input shaft

[Donziweasel]

I measured the old bearing with a calipre and the new one. Each were withing 1/100 of each other. Aghhhhh.......

[mrfixxall]

I measured the old bearing with a calipre and the new one. Each were withing 1/100 of each other. Aghhhhh.......


if the tranny has been exposed to moisture it may have a tiny bit of rust on the slide collar,,get some 320 emery and polish it,,then give it a lite coat of greece..

[yeller]

Nice engine choice. :yes:

The 360 is a great engine. I know I'll get killed by saying this...................but it's better than the 350 chev of the same era.

It's just an awesome engine that doesn't get the credit it deserves. It's better suited for a street car because it has a larger bore and shorter stroke than the 350, so it's a quick revving engine. But that being said, it's still going to be an killer engine in your CJ.

[Donziweasel]

Glen, fired it this morning. Yeah!

Got to reposition the distributer, check timing, and put together radiator and cooling hoses............

[silverghost]

Great News~

How much oil pressure are you getting this time on the new engine ?

[Donziweasel]

60 psi cold, 40 warm. Pretty stellar for an AMC engine. :)

Still haven't driven it yet. I have to adjust the clutch and the exhaust is giving me headaches.