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tjags
05-29-2011, 05:32 PM
How many amps for the ignition breaker in my 1990 Sweet 16? I don't have a manual and nothing on any breaker stating amps.

Took boat out of storage but won't even fire to start and instrument panel isn't getting any electric. Bildge, blower, and nav lights work fine and are all on different breakers. Guessing it is the breaker behind the ignition switch. My trim is also not getting any power to it.

This is the info from the breaker (which I believe is original):
E-T-A
Series 1658
Made in USA

MOP
05-29-2011, 06:52 PM
The main breaker is located on the front of the stbd. manifold right by the main plug harness.

tjags
05-29-2011, 09:29 PM
The main breaker is located on the front of the stbd. manifold right by the main plug harness.

I have the breaker but I can't figure out how many amp's it is?

BUIZILLA
05-29-2011, 09:58 PM
30..

tjags
05-30-2011, 06:30 AM
30..

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!! Hopefully off and boating today.

MOP
05-30-2011, 07:18 AM
Sorry Jim it is a 50 amp breaker.

BUIZILLA
05-30-2011, 07:53 AM
my small blocks were 30, and the big blocks were 50

:)

that's a fact Jack

tjags
05-30-2011, 11:52 AM
So wait...it's a 50amp? I'll try that one since the 30 didn't work. FYI I'm running the 4.3l OMC.

When the 30 didn't work I found a breaker (I think) in the engine compartment mounted to the stern wall on the Port side. Red button with a push button center that says push to reset....the button was out so I pushed it back in, but still no power to guages, trim, and no sound when I turn the key.

If not the 50amp breaker, should I replace that breaker in the rear? What else could it be? All other electric works fine-bildge, nav, blower. Checked wiring from dash and everything seems intact.

Thanks.

zelatore
05-30-2011, 12:06 PM
I'd just mention that breakers themselves rarely fail. Testing one is about as easy as it gets - just check for continuity between the two poles with it reset. No point running out and buying one when you can test it in 2 minutes. There's no 'maybe'; it'll either pass or fail.

As for your no power problem, I'd be looking for a suspect ground. After sitting all winter a little corrosion could have easily developed.

BUIZILLA
05-30-2011, 12:20 PM
is this an OMC? could be a 50...

you can get breaker jumper test straps from West Marine part # blue sea 9216

tjags
05-30-2011, 01:51 PM
is this an OMC? could be a 50...

It is an OMC. Marine store was out of 50 amp quick connect push button, so I need to look for one.

Zelatore: You may be onto something...

I've got a steel wire coming out where the outdrive goes into the stern that isn't attached to anything on one end. The other is attached to metal on the drive. Problem is, I can't seem to find where the other end connects to. The total length of the wire is about 6 in.

Wire description: 4-6in long, steel, connected to metal on drive via bolt, other end is not connected and but would also be connected via a bolt/screw.

Any Ideas??

mrfixxall
05-30-2011, 03:54 PM
It is an OMC. Marine store was out of 50 amp quick connect push button, so I need to look for one.

Zelatore: You may be onto something...

I've got a steel wire coming out where the out drive goes into the stern that isn't attached to anything on one end. The other is attached to metal on the drive. Problem is, I can't seem to find where the other end connects to. The total length of the wire is about 6 in.

Wire description: 4-6in long, steel, connected to metal on drive via bolt, other end is not connected and but would also be connected via a bolt/screw.

Any Ideas??


anything that is connected to the out drive gimbal mounting studs go to a good ground,usually the battery or the back of the engine block..

if your having power problems and the circuit breaker did not work start looking on the engine wire harness usually around the main power plug..you will see a 8 gauge wire with a fat rubber plug and a wire doohickey thing holding it together..when you take that plug apart their is a glass fuse in that plug,that if your engine package is equipped with it..

MOP
05-30-2011, 04:20 PM
Before you start running around like a chicken with head cut off, find every black wire follow it to each termination point and clean the lug and contact area. Being as you have accessory power the problem is in the engine circuits, grounds are 80% of electrical problems, poor battery contacts, key switches, main harness plug is low on the list but is worth looking at if all the pins are clean shiny copper it is more than likely just fine.

Walt. H.
05-30-2011, 04:34 PM
I would also suspect the ign switch might have gone bad and put a jumper wire from the batt side of the ign sw, to the ign side and see if your gauges jump to life? Cause thats how it gets powered up!
Or first just rattle the hell out of your key switch shaking it on & off a gazillion times quick at one time and see if you see a response?

tjags
05-31-2011, 08:12 AM
The breaker has 2 quick connects: one reads line and the other reads load. Which wires go to them? My original breaker only had numbers "1 & 2". To explain, I have a wire coming directly from the ignition to connect to the breaker and the other wire goes from the breaker out into the boat (long wire beyond where I can see it end).

I know it's a rookie question but electric isn't my thing!!! Thanks.

tjags
05-31-2011, 08:23 AM
Before you start running around like a chicken with head cut off, find every black wire follow it to each termination point and clean the lug and contact area. Being as you have accessory power the problem is in the engine circuits, grounds are 80% of electrical problems, poor battery contacts, key switches, main harness plug is low on the list but is worth looking at if all the pins are clean shiny copper it is more than likely just fine.

When I took the battery out to re-charge it I noticed a black, large guage wire that was attached to the metal mounting post of the battery box. It looked strange, but I didn't touch the battery at all last year and to my knowledge they didn't when it got winterized-no need to.

Would a black wire be grounded directly next to the battery?

There are two very thin wires attached to the battery on the NEG side that must go to the Bildge and Blower, so this leaves me thinking the large black wire should be attached directly to the battery (like in every other boat I've ever owned!!!).

Should I just attach it to the battery and see what happens??

Help! Thanks!!!

zelatore
05-31-2011, 10:47 AM
I'm not familiar with OMC's breakers, but a breaker is just a switch that opens when it goes over-current. It shouldn't matter which way you wire it.

If you want to test yours all you need to do is make sure there is continuity (i.e. a dead short) between the two terminals when it is 'on' and no continuity (i.e. an open) between them when it is tripped. All breakers test the same way whether 5 amps or 50.

I believe the strap you saw at the back should be connected to a good ground on the engine block. It's just to make sure the transom assembly is at the same ground potential as the block. A good find, but unlikely to be your starting problem.

The black wire attached to the battery hold-down is odd. Chances are it should be on the battery ground instead, but you can get a better idea by following it and seeing where it goes on the other end. The only reason I could think to attach a wire to a battery hold down would be for a bonding system, but that would be a green wire and I've never seen a battery hold down tied to a bonding system anyway. Heck, I don't think I've ever seen a small boat with a bonding system!

Walt. H.
05-31-2011, 11:03 AM
Don, I'm betting Tjags left some battery cables off when he had the battery out to charge, so my new suggestion to Tjags is: Now that we know it's probably pilot error to reconnect properly is to look for some cables that sprang from view when they were removed such as that auxiliary ground cable and connect them to the appropriate battery terminal.

Look carefully and let us know.:yes:

tjags
05-31-2011, 01:37 PM
OK, first off...thanks for all the help. This forum really is great when in need.

Second, when I took the battery out to recharge I noticed the black wire attached to the battery box post. I thought it looked odd, but when I put the battery back in, I did it just as I found it. I didn't mess with the battery at all last year, and didn't take it out for the winter. My mechanic winterized it, but I didn't think he'd do anything to the battery. My conclusion was: boat ran great last summer, don't mess with it because it looked odd.

From what I've learned so far- breakers don't often fail, the ignition breaker is either a 30amp, 50amp, or a 5 as I was told by a service guy today. 50 amp push button breakers are next to impossible to find! Chance are the cable attached to the post should actually be connected to the battery.

So...after work I'll be putting the old breaker back in, connecting the random wire to the battery, and turning the key for power!!!! I'll post an update as soon as I know the result.

Thanks again everyone!!!!!

Walt. H.
05-31-2011, 02:17 PM
Before you hook that wire to the battery ground post please follow it back to see what it leads to, if it does end going into a wiring harness or bolted to the eng block then yes attach it to the negative batt post terminal.

tjags
05-31-2011, 02:48 PM
Before you hook that wire to the battery ground post please follow it back to see what it leads to, if it does end going into a wiring harness or bolted to the eng block then yes attach it to the negative batt post terminal.

Check. Will do. Thanks Walt.

mrfixxall
05-31-2011, 04:14 PM
"line'' means from the battery + power ''load'' goes to the accessories which draws power..

tjags
05-31-2011, 05:50 PM
I am happy to report all is well with the 16! It ended up being the mysterious cable connected to the battery box. I followed Walt's instructions and found it was bolted to the engine block. No idea why the mechanic would do that.

I put the old breaker back in, connected the cable to the battery, and she powered gauges and started right up from a long winter slumber.

Thanks again for all the help. I feel like an idiot for not knowing the issue immediately, but I learned a lot.

Safe Boating.

Walt. H.
06-01-2011, 12:47 PM
Your mech must have done that as a safety precaution to prevent you from accidentally attempting to start your engine during the off season storage until you brought it back to him for the springtime recommissioning back into service.

Glad to hear all is well now, but make sure all your engine drain plugs are back in if the engine wasn't filled with a antifreeze mix and oil is also filled to the proper level?
But i'm sure if it wasn't you would have a plastic bag tied to your steering wheel containing those drain plugs or a note of instructions of what needs to be done before start-up.

tjags
06-01-2011, 02:13 PM
Your mech must have done that as a safety precaution to prevent you from accidentally attempting to start your engine during the off season storage until you brought it back to him for the springtime recommissioning back into service.

Glad to hear all is well now, but make sure all your engine drain plugs are back in if the engine wasn't filled with a antifreeze mix and oil is also filled to the proper level?
But i'm sure if it wasn't you would have a plastic bag tied to your steering wheel containing those drain plugs or a note of instructions of what needs to be done before start-up.

All plugs were in and oil levels look good. The engine is running strong so all I need now is some warm weather!

Safe Boating.