Volvo 270/280T

[silverghost]

My current "Benchseat 18" as found has a Volvo/Holman~Moody 270 that is in just fair shape. I need to pull it apart and add some new bearings, universals, seals, boots, etc.
There is no pitting on this old outdrive case.

I would like to add power trim !
This is a "Must Have" for this new aft benchseat drive position.

ALSO~~~
My complete tilt motor assembly was stolen off this old Volvo 270 before I bought this project !

I am debating if I should try to find a complete 280T outdrive assembly from bellhousing to prop ?

I am not a Volvo drive expert by any means~~~
I have put seal kits, universals,bearings, and boots, in a few of them before.

I have much more experience in the old Mercruiser TRS /velvet drive combos.
I had one for 15 years .

I have never owned , or worked on, a Merc. Alpha or Bravo !

Would my old 270 drive work with a 280T transom shield & hydraulic pump unit ?

Is there a better option for getting power tilt here ?
I would like to keep the old time tested Volvo AQ drive system as I hear they are almost bullet-proof up to about 400 horsepower !
It would also save me some cash !

I hear some parts & props are hard to find for the old 270/280 drives ?

Should I replace the entire outdrive set-up ?
&
Give this old Volvo 270 drive to a forum member here who could use it ?

I also have no engine at the moment~~~
The old 270 was set up as a Ford Holmam~Moody unit.
I assume basically a standard Volvo 270 with Hollman~Moody badging ?

I would need to swap out the drive's old Ford bellhousing for a SB Chevy unit.
I have no drive damper assemby at all now .

If all else fails I can always spring for a new Merc. Bravo drive !

But at what cost compared to staying with the old Volvo 270/280 & 280Tdrives ?
Both in price ?
And ability to obtain spare parts in the future ?

Does Volvo still support these old drives with new parts ?

Now is the time to pick a final drive system & engine for this project as I plan to soon replace the rotted tramsom wood core & repair stringer rot next !

This project had been on hold because of the sudden Cancer illness & passing-away of my Father .

All ideas & opinions appreciated !
Thank's

[mphatc]

Brad,

MOP knows these answers best, but I think I can say that a 280T housing fits on a 270. on my Magnum project I am switching from 250 drives to 2 280T drives and the hole pattern is the same . .

I'd do anything you can to not modify the Hornet . .

Mario L.

[mrfixxall]

Brad,

MOP knows these answers best, but I think I can say that a 280T housing fits on a 270. on my Magnum project I am switching from 250 drives to 2 280T drives and the hole pattern is the same . .

I'd do anything you can to not modify the Hornet . .

Mario L.

Mario,,he has a 18 that someone made in to a bench seat ..


i would look into a volvo sx,,faster then merc and its close to the existing hole size..

[silverghost]

That is correct !
This was a 1972 Donzi 18 that sombody did a chop, cut, and paste job on to make it into a "Benchseat 18". It had been sitting outside in the weeds for 25 + years before I bought this old project in 2009 .
I am just now putting it back together correctly, re-coring, gas-tank ,& re-powering & re-painting it.
12 Photos are on this forum search under "Benchseat 18 Classic Race Boat Found "

I don't want to break the bank on a new high priced engine & drive system on this old benchseat conversion project !

Who knows how well it will finally perform with the weight shifted aft to it's new benchseat driving position ? !

I could just be throwing good money into a black hole !

It is a fun & interesting project !

Lenny has been doing a similar benchseat X-18 project in VBC Canada ~~~

Lenny has far more fiberglass construction talent than I !

[Donzi Vol]

It all depends on how fast you want to go and how much you want to spend. I'm getting creative this spring in hopes of a few more mph's. That thread is around here somewhere. To me, some more speed is worth a little cash. However, it's not worth a big investment on a whole new drive and everything that comes along with it. If you pop off the 270 for a merc, you'll be looking at a new bell, transom (much smaller hole), paint or gel, assembly, steering, and of course the drive itself. There are ways to make the 270 go faster, and I'll let you know just what they are after I figure out the full equation :D

Good luck...keep us posted!

[Conquistador_del_mar]

I am debating if I should try to find a complete 280T outdrive assembly from bellhousing to prop ?
Would my old 270 drive work with a 280T transom shield & hydraulic pump unit ?

Here is the 1985 280T transom assembly that I installed on my 1971 18' Donzi. Yes, it is an easy assembly to install - you will need two extra holes for the hydraulic hoses, but the mounting holes are the same as the regular 270 housing. Yes, the 270 drive will bolt up to the 280T assembly. It is an awesome modification! You will now have complete trim control instead of deciding what pin hole to use for all driving conditions. Bill

[Sweet little 16]

usually the parts are pretty much interchangeble on the 250 thru 280.


one difference is in the yolk/tiller for the steering helmet, they made 2 sizes. look for a transom housing with the helmet that should cover you just in case.


I was under the impression that the 200-thru 280 used the volvo cut out and the 290 and sx/cobra used the merc cut out?? My point being going from a 280 or older to a newer 290 or sx would mean glass work on the transom . If that's not the case I sure would like to know .


also remember the 280 drive leg is a little different , more hydrodynamic.


parts can be found as well as props.

[Donzi Vol]

one difference is in the yolk/tiller for the steering helmet, they made 2 sizes. look for a transom housing with the helmet that should cover you just in case.


Do what now? Are you saying that there is a steering option other than the helmet? If so, I would really like to know more. Not a huge fan of all of the control of the steering/boat being held by one bolt...makes me a little nervous.

Thanks

[Sweet little 16]

Do what now? Are you saying that there is a steering option other than the helmet? If so, I would really like to know more. Not a huge fan of all of the control of the steering/boat being held by one bolt...makes me a little nervous.
Thanks


re read the post ,they made 2 different size yolks (where the helmet is held in the transom housing) one is smaller one is larger. I suggested to buy a transom housing that had the helmet with it so you know it matches.



the helmet connection to the drives are pretty standard, connections on 2 sides and the top, except for the very late models which had several bolts in the top connection instead of one.
not sure what one bolt makes you nervous?? The volvo setup is ok if you're using it at the speeds it was designed for. If and a big if , all the connections and cable must be in top shape and you must be propped correctly. when those connection are loose or have play low 20 mph can be a handful. If you are planing on going fast I would go to a power steering/external setup .



If you use internal steering you pretty much have to stay with the helmet setup. If you went to external steering you can loose the helmet , replaced with a bracket directly on the drive. probably have to loose the helm and bezel as well.



connections to check on a regular basis
the 3 on the helmet
the spindle to tiller connection ( yolk usually a bolt that tightens the grooved hole in the tiller around the grooved spindle of the helmet).
the end of the cable to the tiller connection
and the back pivot end of the steering cable end usual a backet attached to the motor
and the helm


any play or binding in any of these can cause havoc in the control and handling of the boat

hope that helps

[silverghost]

Thank's for all your input & opinions so far guys.

Bill~~~Thanks for the great photo of your 280T transom unit~~~
This might be the way to go IF, and only IF, the drive can be put back into service ?

What does the Volvo trim pump uint look like ?
I have never seen one !
I assume there are only two hydraulc lines involved~~~
Am I correct ?

Today was the first time I was able to to do a quick inspection of my complete outdrive.

It will not tilt, as the complete tilt motor assembly has been stolen.
I tried to lift, and pivot up, the drive by hand with no success~~~
It is stuck down solid !

The drive will also not steer, or move at all, from side to side as it also appears stuck in the center position !
There is no steering cable connected inside at all; just an empty & rusty steering arm; so that's not holding it back ! Bad bearings & rusted Universal joints I suspect might be holding it back ?

The drive's splined input shaft, for the drive damper in the bellhousing is very rusty and it will not turn with a 2 foot long webbed strap wrench !
Believe me~~~I tried !

This boat had been sitting outside uncovered for 25 + years with the Ford engine removed.
The aft end of the hull was full of water .

The input shaft , & inside bellhousing is Rusty & corroded and I supect this input shaft's bearing is also rusty !

There is no prop, or prop nut, washers , or retaining cone !
I put the strap wrench on the SS splined prop output shaft and it too will not turn.
I removed the shift linkage cover and shifted the drive~~~
Still nothing will turn by hand !
It is stuck soid ~~~

Not a very good sign !

What do YOU think about this ?

The drive's lube oil was almost up to level and appeared to be clean. I doubt any water got into the lower unit's gear-case !

I did not attempt to drain the lube oil~~~as of today.

I guess it's time to start pulling this drive apart to evaluate IF it in fact can be rebuilt with new bearings & a seal kit, boots , etc !

I suspect the universal joints are rusted frozen solid; as are the steering & tilt bearings !

Also the input shaft main bearings in the bellhousing along with the splined steel shaft itself are both very rusty .

This drive may just be a scrapp parts unit now ?
I assume it's a 270 ?

Here is the data from the Hollman~Moody T-Bird tag on the bellhousing.

D2 HM-3144 1RW
I/O
CPM-235B-4N-
C9H-M-ME1
1-1-10*

Here is the data from the outside top of the drive~~~

Volva Penta
PZ NR2730885 B

The H~M Ford engine was long gone before I bought this boat !

I do not know the outdrive's ratio ?

Is there another data tag located on the outdrive somewhere that might give me a clue as to it's drive ratio ?

Can anyone tell me anything about the engine, or drive based on the data tag's info I supplied ?

Matty is the H~M numbers man !

MATTY: are you out there somewhere ?
I have not seen a post from you on this forum in a very long time ?
I hope you are well ?

Time to hunt down a good early Volvo~Penta service technical manual !

Who sells the BEST Volvo service tech manual out there today ?
Most of the genaric Volvo service & technical manuals I see in the marine stores give only a little bit of info on the early Volvo~Penta outdrives !
****(Manual Update I just bought a Seloc 2600 Volvo 1968-91 Repair Manual at a local book store~~~
95% is engine & other later outdrive info~~~
Sadly~~~
Very little on the 270-280 in this manual
!
Is there a BETTER Repair Manual out there ? )

In short my old Volvo~Penta oudrive is a big rusted mess !

The BIG QUESTIONS~~~

Can it be saved & re-used?

Should it be saved ?

At what cost ?

[Sweet little 16]

is the drive still on the boat?? if so remove it from the transom housing and inspect and turn the U-joints. this will also let you figure what drive ratio as well. Then look at the input and output shafts in the intermediate and see if they turn.

[silverghost]

The drive boot bellows is very very stiff and has a 2 " split in it~~~
I am now thinking that salt water entered here in the distant past and did a number on the U-Joints , & bearings , shafts etc.

The boat may have possibly also partially sunk at one time !

Perhapps this is why it was sitting in those weeds for 25+ years ? !

No real surprize here !
When I first bought this project I had assumed the worst for this old drive~~~

I bought it because I liked the idea of a benchseat 18 project !

The complete drive, such as it is, is still mounted on the transom~~~

I guess it's time to pull it off and tear it open and have a good internal inspection .

IF it will in fact ever come apart ?

[Sweet little 16]

Might be a plan to pull it all off the boat check the transom. If the transom looks like it needs to be replaced that would be the moment of truth. If glass work is the word of the day then scrap the volvo and totally update the power and drive.

[mphatc]

As an owner of an 18 that was once a Volvo boat . . and as I have made bow to stern balance changes . . .I'd venture that this boat will possibly need tabs . .
What is the fuel tank? Stock 22-25 gallons?
Where is the battery?
Power trim will only act to raise the bow . . ? . . .
As to discarding the Volvo and adding something newer . . think twice!!! BTDT!! If I knew what I know now my Corsican would be a Volvo 280T with external steering and not a Bravo!
the Volvo is tougher than an Alpha, and as stong as the Bravo with a small block at a lower weight.
My Corsican floats 3/4" lower at the stern, and my boat is still a 302 Ford with an aluminum intake , aluminum heads and CMI tubular headers, lighter crank and flywheel, basically my engine package weighs less that the original.
Maddad has a very fast 18 with a Volvo . . . he can almost stay with me:lookaroun::yes: Let's see if he finds this thread :)
props are not an issue . . . Solas props can be found
Mario L.

[silverghost]

The transom core wood is shot as are the aft ends of the stringers~~~

I knew this also going-in and expected to recore the transom & repair the stringers anyway.
Just another"Fun" part of the project~~~
Just thinking about this glasswork & grinding makes me itch !

Mario: The center of gravity issue has been on my mind for with some time now with the new aft benchseat driver's position.

Some weight shifting is in order here !

A new bigger gas tank is planned~~~
I will try to install the new bigger tank closer to the bow of the boat.

Trim tabs are on the must- have "Punch list" also !

Like I mentioned before this project will become a "Black Hole" for lots of cash !

But it is an unusual & fun project !

I will be the only kid on my block, or in the USA I suspect for that matter, with a Donzi benchseat 18 when finished !

Lenny's great X-18 benchseat projects are not counted here in this count as he is located in another country in the Great Upper North West !

[robertbj]

[quote=silverghost;593394]
****(Manual Update I just bought a Seloc 2600 Volvo 1968-91 Repair Manual at a local book store~~~
95% is engine & other later outdrive info~~~
Sadly~~~
Very little on the 270-280 in this manual
!
Is there a BETTER Repair Manual out there ? )

CLYMER Stern Drive Shop Manual 1968-1993 has helped me out over the years. It is about 2/3 motor and 1/3 drive in content. There is also a 270T Volvo drive. I believe that is what I have on my 16. There is one long cylinder inside on top for tilt and one short cylinder outside, on the bottom of the transom plate, for trim. Maybe your 270 could be converted to a 270T with only a few parts.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Bill~~~Thanks for the great photo of your 280T transom unit~~~
This might be the way to go IF, and only IF, the drive can be put back into service ?

What does the Volvo trim pump uint look like ?
I have never seen one !
I assume there are only two hydraulc lines involved~~~
Am I correct ?



Here is the only picture I have in my computer that shows the pump. It looks about like any other trim pump. The other picture shows the hydraulic hoses. No, there are two hydraulic lines from each trim cylinder, but I believe one from each side is connected to each other at a T fitting (I would have to look to be sure). Hopefully, if you bought a 280T transom assembly it would come with the necessary pump and lines. A normal trim switch will operate it. If you need a drive, they are on Ebay fairly often. I will be selling a complete B ratio drive and complete regular transom assembly as a package soon if you can wait for me to get my act together (complete from bell housing to bottom of skeg). It will be cheap at $800 - will even come with a Ford or Chevy bell housing. It is hard to beat the reliability of these older Volvo drives. Hope this helps, Bill

[HallJ]

www.marinemechanic.com/volvo/Volvo%20Penta%20Workshop%20Manual.pdf

Jeff

[maddad]

Maddad has a very fast 18 with a Volvo . . . he can almost stay with me:lookaroun::yes: Let's see if he finds this thread :)

Found it. Silverghost, I stick with the old Volvo because it's what my boat had, they are bullet proof and the drives are a dime a dozen here on L.I. The "B" ratio is set by the gear in the lower that's on the vertical shaft. Save yours if you can, then you can get any clean drive and use it with a V-8. I also like the set it and forget it style trim pin, but I've never had trim to compare it to. Good luck with your benchseat project.

[silverghost]

This benchseat project hull needs EVERYTHING !

There was severe wood core damage in her deck, stringers, bulkheads, and transom.
Rusted-out gas tank
No Engine~~~
Questionable Volvo 270 outdrive~~~
No propeller
Not much original deck hardware~
No wiring~~~
No steering system~~~
No Electrical system & wiring~~~
No vinyl bench seat cushons or carpet~
No cockpit cover~
Junk trailer not worth $10. !
Needs new Gel or paint~

The boat basically needs to be restored & re-rigged from the old hull & deck~~~UP !

Before I am finished this project ~~~I could possibly have bought a turn-key late model Donzi 22 for less money !

I have been around, & owned, fast boats all my life ~~~
Some folks think I am crazy for taking-on this benchseat 18 project~~~
The boatyard guys had a big laugh when I bought this old hull project in fall 2009 !

I am just doinig it for the fun enjoyment of it !
I needed a great & unusual boat project !
I never found my dream Donzi 18 Jet-boat~~~
So this is IT !

I think it will be a cool boat when completed~~~

Who here would not want a benchseat 18, the boat Donzi never built~~~but should have;~~~~ or it's real bigger brother the famous benchseat Hornet ?
Watching Scott Pearson's fantastic yellow "Sting" Benchseat Hornet project on-line got me hooked !

I just need to keep the spending $$$ on this big project under some sane & realistic control !

I am not THAT crazy~~~or wealthy !

And I want this project to ride & plane normally when completed ~~~
Or the project will be a big waste of my time & money $$$ !

In the end it will be a labor of love !

A fun & unusual project indeed !

I am also doing this as a lasting tribute to my late Father who also shared in my Donzi benchseat 18 dreams !
He was involved in it as much as I have been !
Until he got very ill with terminal Cancer about this time last year !
I am still crushed by his passing !

Dad & I always boated & did our mahogany wood boat restoration projets together !

He was my best friend~~~
All my life~~~55 years !

Dad alone put 150 hours running time on my 24' American Skier Eagle in Summer 2009 at age 91 !
He was out in it on the Great Egg Harbor bay behind Ocean City NJ almost every day~~~Rain or shine !

Everybody in that area knew the "Guys in that "Red Euro Speedboat" !

[Tony]

Silverghost...I hope you are as excited and enthusiastic one year from now as you are today! :nilly:

Seriously, best of luck on your restoration...keep us posted on the progress.



:beer:

[Sweet little 16]

I would agree with Mario and Maddad if the transom were good, But after I re glassed the boat I could not cut a 280 t transom housing into it. I would go with what gives me the most options for performance. That would be something newer a volvo sx , dpx, merc, or something along those lines.

[robertbj]

Attached are photos of the trim and tilt cylinders on my drive and a shot of the pump. You can get the Clymer repair manual from Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0892876387/marinemechanicco

[Sweet little 16]

thanks for the pics, that's the first time I've seen the 270T up close. that looks like a single ram system in place of the worm gear. The 280T uses the transom housing with the 2 side ears, and 2 rams . the rams are attached to the trim ear housing that moves the platform and bolt the reverse latch grabs on to up and down

[maddad]

The bottom of the transom sheild looks a bit differant, I wonder if the rest is the same. I'd like to see more pics of that if you have them. What a nice upgrade that would be if it's as tough as Volvo's other stuff.

[smidgen too]

Here is a trim set up we made back in the 70's to trim the Volvo drives. We used Merc trim pumps and Merc outboard trim cylinders. I used it on many race boats back then. With all thats available today you could make it look & work better. :beer:

[f_inscreenname]

The 270T has a second ram on the bottom of the transom plate that holds the drive up when underway. If you just push down on the “tilt” ram area only you will twist the drive when underway.
I’ve converted 2 Volvos (270 & 280) to T models. Just a couple notes.
It’s a must do. A 280T is a new world if the boat didn’t have trim before.
Start looking now because there in not that many out there.
You just need the trim shield and rams. Don’t try to buy these two separate because it will cost way to much. Last time I bought the whole bell housing to prop because it was cheap (like 500 buck). Had to use a forklift to get the saltwater beast apart but as soon as I got the bell housing and outdrive off the shield it was fine like I figured.
Buy this (or similar) if you can http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLVO-PENTA-AQ-GM-PATTERN-BELLHOUSING-ADAPTER-KIT-/280565096698?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item4152fba0fa (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VOLVO-PENTA-AQ-GM-PATTERN-BELLHOUSING-ADAPTER-KIT-/280565096698?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item4152fba0fa) and never think about it again. Works with a BBC and small block. If you don’t buy and go to a Chevy be sure the flywheel on the motor will fit the bell. A lot of the older bells were set up for a 11” flywheel. A lot of Chevy’s are now 14” wheels.
Trim is run off about any Merc trim pump. The 2 hydro lines to the trim pump go to “T”s and from there to each trim ram.
The rams can be rebuilt with a set of “O” rings. The first shield I bought had laid in the dirt for a long time. All the passages were filled. Blew it all out and gave it a try. It’s never gave me a problem in 6 years. One day I should chang those O rings.
The “tilt motor” thing that you will have to buy if you don’t convert to a T model will cost a fortune, never work right and require expensive part if not replaced on a regular basis. They are a total POS.

http://www.supernova19.com/7da97310.jpg

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/1536/91088311.jpg
The post “Smdgen too” posted is how the yellow boat’s transom was set up before but was all gone except for the holes by the time I got the boat.
http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/7968/46321883ce9.jpg

[robertbj]

The bottom of the transom sheild looks a bit differant, I wonder if the rest is the same. I'd like to see more pics of that if you have them. What a nice upgrade that would be if it's as tough as Volvo's other stuff.
Some more shots at different angles of my drive. From looking through the Clymer book and what I could find on the internet, it looks like to change from a 270 to a 270T, you will need a different transom shield with the trim and tilt cylinders, hydraulic pump, steering arm, and the steering fork. Everything else looks interchangeable as best that I can see. The trim / tilt works off one toggle switch on the dash. Both cylinders are plumbed together with tees. When the larger diameter trim cylinder bottoms out, the smaller diameter tilt cylinder takes over. While under way, the tilt cylinder doesn’t have the power, so the pump just bypasses. There is no need for the reverse latch because the trim cylinder is pinned to the steering fork. I found some cool cutaway diagrams of Volvo drives on the net. I’ve never seen a high speed Volvo drive. Apparently they made some.
Bob

[f_inscreenname]

If you have a choice between the 270 T and the 280 T do the 280. Much simpler design and like I said the rams can be rebuilt with two O rings. :yes:

[HIGH LIFE]

robertbj, I have 2 - 270 Volvo drives but the trim is quite different. On mine there are 2 pistons next to the drive, one end is bolted to the transom - the other is mounted to a "I" beam that is u bolted to the lower bracket, by the trim bolt area. 4 hoses thru transom, 2 up, 2 down, T'ed to Merc pump. I have two e drives lowers ( the high speed lowers ) in stock. Also a complete 280 T. "HIGH LIFE"

[maddad]

High Life, by "in stock", do you mean in good working order and with a performance prop so I could buy it and add a little speed to my 18?
Just checking, thanks.

[HIGH LIFE]

maddad, Both need to be re-built, maybe gears. I have a pair of 3- blade SS cleavers 21* - splined for Merc. props - 15 splined. "HIGH LIFE"

[Donzi Vol]

High Life, please check your PM's and give me a shout. Thanks...looking forward to it.

-David

[maddad]

maddad, Both need to be re-built, maybe gears. I have a pair of 3- blade SS cleavers 21* - splined for Merc. props - 15 splined. "HIGH LIFE"
Thanks. I'll think it over. I'd like to do the swap, but it's going to have to be a bolt it on and go. I just can't use another "project" right now.

[mphatc]

can someone clarify . .

The power trim pump used on a 280 that came with hydraulic power trim . . can one substitute a Mercruiser type power trim pump for this application?

Mario L.

[silverghost]

Mario:

I am looking to buy a 270T-280T transom shield "T" hydraulic trim unit assembly too~~~
OR
A complete 270T-280 T V8 outdrive assembly in good working order.
That's why I started this thread.

Re: Trim Pumps~

Any make & model hydraulic trim pump assembly will work just fine !
I see no reason why a Mercruiser trim pump
assembly would not work fine with the old Volvo transom tilt cylinder shield assembly.
The Mercruiser trim pump units are fairly cheap & very easy to find ; as compared to the old Volvo~Penta pumps.
You can also buy new repair parts for these Merc units at any Merc dealer !
In many ways the Mercruiser punp units are the proper way to go~~~~Unless you are looking to do a period correct Volvo~Penta "T" restoration on an original & rare collectable show boat !

Good Luck in your search !

[HIGH LIFE]

All the VOLVO P/T units I have use the Mercury pumps. "HIGH LIFE"

[maddad]

Look on L.I.'s craigs list. There's a guy looking to get rid of a 21' bayliner on a trailer. He wants $275. It's got a chevy v8 and 280t. Awesome parts boat for your goals.

[maddad]

Oops, Galaxy, not bayliner, and $295.
http://longisland.craigslist.org/boa/2261329797.html

[f_inscreenname]

Again, do a 280-T
If you have an issue with the 270T shield it's more of a problem.
Looks cleaner also.
http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/1808/70596682.jpg

[silverghost]

Now that I am looking for a 270T-280T transom shield assembly with the Trim cylinders~~~

Do I still need to look for a complete power tilt assembly ? (Mine is stolen & now missing !)

Or will the "T" Tilt hydraulic transom shield take the place of the old electro/mechanical tilt unit also ?

How do the "T" transom shields deal with the reverse outdrive locking issue ?
What will keep my old 270 outdrive from swinging upward in reverse gear; what and keep it locked down ?

Do I also need a different steering fork yolk & steering tiller arm assembly to go along with the "T" Tilt-style transom shield & cylinder assembly ?

Will my old basic 270 drive mate-up with the newer 280 "T" hydraulic tilt transom shieldassembly & cylinders without any other parts interchange issues ?

As you can see I know little about the Volvo 270-280 outdrives as I am an old Mercruiser TRS owner.
I owned the Merc TRS with race-style lower unit gearcase for 15 years .

This old Volvo~Penta 270 on my "Benchseat 18" project is a new animal to me !

I will take my old, now frozen, H/M Volvo 270 outdrive off the Donzi's transom this week; and open it up to see exactly what is rusted & damaged internally from extended salt water use and running with a damaged & torn-stiff drive bellows.
The input & prop shafts will not rotate at all; nor will the entire drive swing side to side for steering !
It may now just be a scrap parts unit that is way beyond any reasonable repair ? !

[mphatc]

I have an extra Chevy bellhousing and Volvo intermediate shaft unit that I can part with . .

fwiw, last fall I bought a low hours matched pair of Volvo 280 drives fresh water use, bellhousings to prop $2200.00

Thank you for the info on the trim pumps, I just scored 2 Mercruiser authentic new ones on Ebay below wholesale . . :nilly:

Mario L.

[f_inscreenname]

Or will the "T" Tilt hydraulic transom shield take the place of the old electro/mechanical tilt unit also ?
No tilt needed with a 280 at all. With the 270T they just replaced the electric tilt with a hydro ram and then added a second one that basically pushes the trim pin out.

How do the "T" transom shields deal with the reverse outdrive locking issue ?
The same way that all the rest of Penta’s do. With a reverse locking paw. There is no difference with drive it’s self. That’s why any Volvo drive will bolt right up to a “T” shield.

Do I also need a different steering fork yolk & steering tiller arm assembly to go along with the "T" Tilt-style transom shield & cylinder assembly ?
Nope.

This old Volvo~Penta 270 on my "Benchseat 18" project is a new animal to me !
You named it perfect. A Penta is an animal. 500 hp through mine for a number of years and it close to 40 years old now.

[robertbj]

Silvergost, go back to post #28. I don't know if you can use any of your 270 parts on a 280T or not but if you find a 270T shield for parts, you will need to have the 270T steering fork because the tilt cylinder pins to it. You won't need the reverse latch unless you plan on backing up long distances. The tilt cylinder holds the drive down fairly well. You will need the steering arm because the trim cylinder is in the center of the shield instead of off to the side where the electro trim sits. I have had my 270T for almost 30 years and have only changed a few o-rings. In the small lakes of Michigan, if you venture into enough of them, you will find something to mess up an outdrive. I've replaced or fixed a lot of props, only put one output shaft in from running aground once, but never touched the gears or u-joints yet. Not too bad.
Bob