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Fishermanjm
02-07-2011, 04:28 PM
i have heard talk about sea strainers on this site, i know my classic doesn't have one installed on it now. Is it a good idea? Is it a preventative measure? also would a thru hull fitting be used with one?

450rrrr
02-07-2011, 04:48 PM
i have heard talk about sea strainers on this site, i know my classic doesn't have one installed on it now. Is it a good idea? Is it a preventative measure? also would a thru hull fitting be used with one?
i just got mine on last week.i re plumbed from the drive to the sea pump..basic thing is you are catching anything in the strainer before it gets to your motor.if you sit low in the water you may need a ball valve before the strainer to to allow you to open the strainer while in the water and not flood you out..some plumb in flush kits so there is no need to open.
when i was asking the questions you are asking well only one person said that they thought it was a bad idea to draw through the drive.everone else said it would be fine

MOP
02-07-2011, 06:01 PM
Use a BRONZE strainer! Stainless looks pretty and yes more expensive but will let you down. I and others have first hand experience, me quite a bit more than others being i the working end of the boat biz. Check the posts below! I dug up one members post below! http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62387&highlight=sea+strainers If you do insist on S/S bling do a very good job both bonding and zincing it!

gcarter
02-07-2011, 06:34 PM
While everything since the TRS has drawn cooling water through the drive,
it's not necessarily the best way to get the cooling water into the boat.
The drive MFGRS do it that way to make it easier to assemble the drive package into the boat.
If you're NOT a boat builder, there may be improvements you can make.
A through transom pickup will gaurantee a better route for the water to get to the engine.
Once inside, a shut off valve can be added to the inside
nipple of the pickup for safety's sake. Then the strainer
can be added enroute to the seawater pump.
Maybe some pictures of a couple of different boats will
help to illustrate installations;

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=30294&d=1184459118

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=30296&d=1184459118

A different boat, a Minx, the inlet check valve turned out to be unnecessary;

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4944&d=1091063547

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20107&d=1145563203

I have more if you need them.

Buddyc
02-07-2011, 07:06 PM
My Sea ray has them all over. They are great to have, really help when water isnt the cleanest. Baltimore Harbor is famous for cloggin up strainers and usually wash them out when were on the hook

OFFSHORE GINGER
02-07-2011, 07:22 PM
So George what to you feel thos little bad boys are worth ?

gcarter
02-07-2011, 07:32 PM
So George what to you feel thos little bad boys are worth ?

The strainers, or the pickup???
Due to the price of copper today, ya have to shop carefully for the bronze strainer.
Like MOP says, it's the only way to go. On eBay, you can get a 1", or 1-1/4" for a
minimum of $100.00. Maybe $150-$175.00.
The SM pickups go for $165.00, but I've bought a couple on eBay for $50.00.
But be prepaired to wait awhile for it.

Fishermanjm
02-07-2011, 08:52 PM
Thanks for the info George, the thru hull inlet is mounted
to the stern,,, does it hang below the bottom? The raw water
is almost forced in when underway? Is that correct? The strainer
makes sence to me now, it will keep silt an muck from getting
inside the block. I got my classic just in time to winterize it. I did
notice some black dirt an mud was plugging up the block petcock.
Can I buy that type of pick-up or did u fabricate that? If u don't mind
please send a few more pics. I want to get it right first time. Thanks guys

gcarter
02-07-2011, 09:19 PM
Here ya go, start w/#24;

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=49388&page=2

The pickup is a Stainless Marine piece, 1" pipe through.
Here's the site;

http://www.stainlessmarine.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=39&category_id=45&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

gcarter
02-07-2011, 09:25 PM
I really prefer a Perko strainer in 1" or 1-1/4" size. There're others available but I don't think they do the job of the Perko.

gcarter
02-07-2011, 09:35 PM
Here's the pickup on my TR that I'm currently working on;

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=54334&stc=1&d=

And don't forget to block off the hole through the gimbal. That's a stock Merc part along w/a gasket. Otherwise it sinks.:wink:

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57331&stc=1&d=1279665369

Fishermanjm
02-08-2011, 08:39 AM
Got it,,, thanks agin George, if the snow around my boat would melt,,, i could get to work on it,,,

fogducker III
02-08-2011, 09:15 AM
Not as pretty an instal as George's and a little different, but gives you an idea on a similar set-up, I also added a flush out line.

Fishermanjm
02-08-2011, 10:30 AM
There is a factory part that closes off the gimble feed end,,, not just a plug for the hose end?

fogducker III
02-08-2011, 10:40 AM
Not sure if this is the one or for the exhaust outlet but similar idea.....

http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/us/parts-search.html#mr1066ar2947

roadtrip se
02-08-2011, 10:50 AM
I've got bronze strainers in the Formula, which is fine for a cruiser, but not in my Donzi. I have never heard anyone talk about or seen somone post about the failure rate comparison between bronze and stainless, and besides, the bronze is butt ugly from my view. Anything can fail, if it is not looked after.

I really like the Hardin units. One screw to get into the thing, easy to remove basket, and a big lid to see if it is clear or not. Big improvement from the ones I had in my previous offshore boats. I'll have one in the Donzi this year, since the boat is going to be in all kinds of conditions this summer in Michigan.

gcarter
02-08-2011, 10:51 AM
There is a factory part that closes off the gimble feed end,,, not just a plug for the hose end?

You want to cut, or remove the external hose. It shouldn't be plugged because water from the drive pickup still needs to flow through it to help cool the drive upper.

gcarter
02-08-2011, 10:54 AM
I've got bronze strainers in the Formula, which is fine for a cruiser, but not in my Donzi. I have never heard anyone talk about or seen somone post about the failure rate comparison between bronze and stainless, and besides, the bronze is butt ugly from my view. Anything can fail, if it is not looked after.

I really like the Hardin units. One screw to get into the thing, easy to remove basket, and a big lid to see if it is clear or not. I'll have one in the Donzi this year, since the boat is going to be in all kinds of conditions this summer in Michigan.

Todd, I don't think anyone said they failed. I'm sure they don't fail.
What I said was the Perko works better as a strainer. They're easier to get into and the basket has a larger capacity.

roadtrip se
02-08-2011, 11:00 AM
Use a BRONZE strainer! Stainless looks pretty and yes more expensive but will let you down.

GC, this is what I was responding to. Good thread, I just don't share the same opinion on this small piece of it. All good.

Fishermanjm
02-08-2011, 01:46 PM
George, remove the short hose inside the gimble area next to the drive shaft bellows? Then plug the transon end at the inside of the boat to prevent water from getting into the bildge, is that correct?

MOP
02-08-2011, 01:54 PM
GC, this is what I was responding to. Good thread, I just don't share the same opinion on this small piece of it. All good.

Todd the issue is primarily a salt water problem, did you read Donzigo's post in the link I provided below again? It is a major issue in salt and only a slight one in fresh, in fresh it only happens to boats left in the water on a poorly grounded docks the stray electricity gets to the stainless. http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62387&highlight=sea+strainers

undertaker
02-08-2011, 02:07 PM
I've got bronze strainers in the Formula, which is fine for a cruiser, but not in my Donzi. I have never heard anyone talk about or seen somone post about the failure rate comparison between bronze and stainless, and besides, the bronze is butt ugly from my view. Anything can fail, if it is not looked after.
I really like the Hardin units. One screw to get into the thing, easy to remove basket, and a big lid to see if it is clear or not. Big improvement from the ones I had in my previous offshore boats. I'll have one in the Donzi this year, since the boat is going to be in all kinds of conditions this summer in Michigan.


Todd, is this the one from Hardin you are planning on going with??? Was thinking of doing the same with my boat..

http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-13734-1-npt-standard-swirl-away-high-performance-sea-strainer.aspx

:cool:

gcarter
02-08-2011, 02:16 PM
George, remove the short hose inside the gimble area next to the drive shaft bellows? Then plug the transon end at the inside of the boat to prevent water from getting into the bildge, is that correct?

That's correct.

gcarter
02-08-2011, 02:59 PM
Todd, is this the one from Hardin you are planning on going with??? Was thinking of doing the same with my boat..

http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-13734-1-npt-standard-swirl-away-high-performance-sea-strainer.aspx

:cool:

I've looked at these a number of times and my main complait is the basket volume. Compare the picture on the above site w/the basket size of a butt ugly Perko..............
One looks like a few oz. while the Perko is probably bigger than a quart. And I'm talking about a Perko 1" model, not the 1-1/2" Perko in the picture I posted.

roadtrip se
02-08-2011, 03:07 PM
Todd the issue is primarily a salt water problem, did you read Donzigo's post in the link I provided below again? It is a major issue in salt and only a slight one in fresh, in fresh it only happens to boats left in the water on a poorly grounded docks the stray electricity gets to the stainless. http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62387&highlight=sea+strainers

Okay, that makes more sense in salt, Phil. The way I see it, if you don't flush after a salt run every time, everything is going to go sooner or later any way. I have seen plenty of big, salt running, offshores running stainless strainers, because most live on a trailer and are well maintained after runs.

roadtrip se
02-08-2011, 03:09 PM
Todd, is this the one from Hardin you are planning on going with??? Was thinking of doing the same with my boat..
http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-13734-1-npt-standard-swirl-away-high-performance-sea-strainer.aspx
:cool:

That's it.

roadtrip se
02-08-2011, 03:11 PM
I've looked at these a number of times and my main complait is the basket volume. Compare the picture on the above site w/the basket size of a butt ugly Perko..............
One looks like a few oz. while the Perko is probably bigger than a quart. And I'm talking about a Perko 1" model, not the 1-1/2" Perko in the picture I posted.

George, the Hardins come in bigger volumes, too, if you want it.

Check it out:

http://www.hardin-marine.com/c-1101-sea-strainers.aspx

I have done a few searches on the offshore boards, and a lot of them are recommending these, some with a lot of power.

undertaker
02-08-2011, 03:13 PM
:cool::D

gcarter
02-08-2011, 03:29 PM
George, the Hardins come in bigger volumes, too, if you want it.

Check it out:

http://www.hardin-marine.com/c-1101-sea-strainers.aspx

I have done a few searches on the offshore boards, and a lot of them are recommending these, some with a lot of power.

That's good to know.

gcarter
02-08-2011, 04:25 PM
Just to be perfectly clear, I've looked at a bunch of the "bling" strainers. Some of the worst are like the one Carl used that require about 10 wing nuts to be loosened to remove the top. I've seen the examples above and didn't like the normal capacity because if you're ever in mud and shallow water, you can fill a Perko in a few seconds. I can imagine the example above would pack solid almost instantly.
So, one has a lot of bling being made from polished SST. It seems to be readily accessable, but as pictured, has limited capacity.
The other has really excellent flow characteristics (see the Perko site), a very large capacity, and the basket can be accessed in about three (3) seconds.....I know this for a fact!!!:nilly: It's also very sturdy (I suppose you can stand on it), and, being bronze, they are completely corrosion proof. Also they are somewhat cheaper, I've spent $100.00 or so for all of the ones I've purchased.
I suppose there's one downside.......they ain't pretty! But I did paint my new one a matching red!:wink:

realbold
02-08-2011, 05:03 PM
Good thread. Thanks for the info George, I was thinking about a Groco, but will probably go with the Perko 1 1/4". Bronze looks just fine to me.

roadtrip se
02-08-2011, 11:05 PM
Just to be perfectly clear, I've looked at a bunch of the "bling" strainers. Some of the worst are like the one Carl used that require about 10 wing nuts to be loosened to remove the top. I've seen the examples above and didn't like the normal capacity because if you're ever in mud and shallow water, you can fill a Perko in a few seconds. I can imagine the example above would pack solid almost instantly.
So, one has a lot of bling being made from polished SST. It seems to be readily accessable, but as pictured, has limited capacity.
The other has really excellent flow characteristics (see the Perko site), a very large capacity, and the basket can be accessed in about three (3) seconds.....I know this for a fact!!!:nilly: It's also very sturdy (I suppose you can stand on it), and, being bronze, they are completely corrosion proof. Also they are somewhat cheaper, I've spent $100.00 or so for all of the ones I've purchased.
I suppose there's one downside.......they ain't pretty! But I did paint my new one a matching red!:wink:

George, you are mixing opinion with fact:

1) No modern day stainless offshore strainer has ten screws. The Hardin has one screw to access. Even the crappy ones have four or so.
Mine will be mounted in the bilge at the front of the motor where I can get at it as soon as I can get my 235 pounds down there which might
be three seconds.

2) The largest Hardin strainer is 24" x 6", so if capacity was an issue for you, you could try to wedge this into the bilge, even though most offshore guys say it isn't necessary.

3) A strainer isn't going to stop mud and sand, just debrie, like weeds. It is a widespread misunderstanding that a strainer will stop mud and sand, and they don't, so they aren't going to get clogged with this sort of material. If you do have a strainer jammed wth mud or sand, you will have the same stuff in the engine.

4) You have to be buying used to find any strainer for $100. After looking at their site, even Perko's site doesn't list any for that price. So why not do an Ebay search for a similar Hardin to get a realistic comparison? I do agree withn you that the bronze will be cheaper, just not that much cheaper.

5) Painted bronze is still bronze. If you like it and it works for you, great, more power to you. To me, it would be like putting cast headers on my blue motor. They would work for some, but not for me and my toy. This is certainly an opinon. Mine.

gcarter
02-09-2011, 10:38 AM
Good mornin' Todd!
Here's the example I was looking for;

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61435&stc=1&d=1297263761

As you can see, I did miss the count.....there's not ten wing nuts, only EIGHT!
Can you imagine trying to get into that in a hurry? Not in my boat!
This is just poor design! Period!

Also Todd, I've never bought a used strainer, always new, but bought carefully.
But because you weren't there, I'll not contend for the "not designed to remove mud" statement, but they will, to the point there was no flow to the sea water pump and the coolant temp was heading to the moon.
But as soon as I emptied the basket (and it was packed to the top) everything was good.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61436&stc=1&d=1297265786

I might also add, that a good height for a strainer is for the top to be an inch or two below the water line, so that when the top and basket are removed, you get a nice flushing action w/o a lot of water coming into the boat.

450rrrr
02-09-2011, 05:09 PM
seems to be alot of well knowing people on this one ..so i ll pose a question..if i were to put in a water pick up to feed the stainer ect.. could i then re direct the water from the drive to a drive shower.has anyone ever tried that.

gcarter
02-09-2011, 05:18 PM
It's been done. It's not necessarily easy.
One way is to plug the discharge, drill and tap a hole in the side of the upper where the water passage is and feed the shower from there. It's difficult to feed a shower through the bell housing.

OFFSHORE GINGER
02-09-2011, 06:27 PM
http://i55.tinypic.com/1zvzz7s.jpg

OFFSHORE GINGER
02-09-2011, 06:29 PM
Hey guys a few weeks ago i had these Perko's given to me because a friend wants something a little more fancy .

Tony
02-09-2011, 06:49 PM
Hey guys a few weeks ago i had these Perko's given to me because a friend wants something a little more fancy .

What size are they?

gcarter
02-09-2011, 07:07 PM
They look to me like 3/4" pipe. It'll measure approximately 1" in the thread if it is.

OFFSHORE GINGER
02-09-2011, 07:23 PM
What size are they? tony CAT .NO.493/500 ............And were free .

realbold
02-09-2011, 09:14 PM
tony CAT .NO.493/500 ............And were free .
I think you mean 493005 which is 3/4".
493006 is 1", 493007 is 1&1/4" and so on...

OFFSHORE GINGER
02-09-2011, 09:52 PM
I think you mean 493005 which is 3/4".
493006 is 1", 493007 is 1&1/4" and so on... Hey guy that is the reading from the UL sticker and if you like i will post pics tomorrow .....................

realbold
02-09-2011, 11:04 PM
I think that is the same model # for all the different sizes. The question is what size those are. I think George was right, they look like the 3/4" pipe thread model. The one in this ad is also model #493/500, but is part #493-009 which is huge.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PERKO-858E-493-500-BRONZE-BOAT-INTAKE-WATER-STRAINER-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c59823a3bQQitemZ19048 0267835QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

fogducker III
02-09-2011, 11:47 PM
http://i55.tinypic.com/1zvzz7s.jpg


Didn't you give George grief about what size to post pics..???:):eek::wink:

yeller
02-10-2011, 01:19 AM
I might also add, that a good height for a strainer is for the top to be an inch or two below the water line, so that when the top and basket are removed, you get a nice flushing action w/o a lot of water coming into the boat.Do you not mean an inch or two Above the water line?

OFFSHORE GINGER
02-10-2011, 05:28 AM
Fogducker - heres your grief 17 -inch Screen (1024x768) opposed to a 15 - inch Screen (800x600) which dosent take a rocket Scientist to figure out ........Dugh

gcarter
02-10-2011, 08:02 AM
Do you not mean an inch or two Above the water line?

If it's at or above the waterline, whatever dirt, etc that is in the housing will stay there.
By lowering it to a bit to below the water line, it's self purging. It's not as bad as it sounds. Remember, there's no pressure involved. Water pressure increases at the rate of 0.44 lb per foot of depth, so at 1" below the water line, there's virtually no pressure at all. Next consider the strainer is being fed by a 1" diameter hose which only has 0.79" sq. in area, so it'd take awhile to sink the boat.
But by allowing water to overflow the strainer housing while the basket is being cleaned will also clean the housing. So this number can be calculated, 0.79" sq. @ 0.037 psi.

yeller
02-11-2011, 01:33 AM
Thanks for the clarification George.

MOP
02-11-2011, 12:30 PM
Hate to say it George but I totally disagree with mounting the top of the strainer below the water line, mounting below will require a sea cock to keep the water out. That is two extra steps in an emergency, opening and closing either of which can make things dicey in a panic situation, forgetting to open or close can be disastrous. When ever possible I have always mounted then with the top about 2 inches above the water line, this allows you to yank the top off in a tight situation dump the basket and slap the top back on and be on your way. The seem to plug up at the very worst tomes. The few inches of air in the line is mute as it passes through the system in a flash, every time you get air you suck air into the system with no harm, anyone who has run with me knows I love jumping wakes! When I pulled the belt driven pump after "3" seasons the impeller was in darn good shape! I can stop open the hatch clean the strainer in about 1 minute flat been doing that for 5 years now, I would not have it any other way my safety depends on it!

Any sand will stay at the bottom doing it your way!

gcarter
02-11-2011, 12:47 PM
FWIW, I always install a shutoff valve at the inside end of the pickup.
Nothing scarier than a hose splitting w/o a way to shut off the incoming water.

zelatore
02-11-2011, 01:35 PM
I suppose I'd have to agree with both George and MOP here.

I certainly understand the benefits George is addressing. Almost every strainer I've dealt with on yachts has been mounted below the waterline, and they flow water with the top off and the seacock open. This can be handy for helping to clear a bit of crud.

On the other hand, mounting it above the waterline wouldn't mean I didn't want a seacock at the pick-up anyway. Even if the strainer is above the waterline, by definition the pick-up must be below, and you should have a shut-off on that regardless of the strainer's position.

Carl C
02-11-2011, 01:47 PM
Hey! I'm gonna take my "bling" strainer and go play somewhere else!:mad: I like it and, really, how long do you think it will take to loosen 8 wing bolts? If I'm in that kind of trouble I guess I can throw the anchor out. Yes, they are bolts that cannot come out and fall; They will only come out so far. I had a soft grounding at Put-in-Bay that resulted in my heat exchanger being plugged up with crushed shells. I had to get towed in. This has been my only tow and I had full towing coverage through TowBoatU.S. Now I will not have to worry about junk in my raw water cooling components. My only words of advice is to prime the sea strainer the first time out. I did not and it didn't prime and I smoked the impeller at the dock. Now I either watch the strainer for flow or watch the gauge on start-up: Haven't had any trouble since the original dry start-up. IMO they will all get the job done so pick one you like that fits your budget and put it on. It's good protection. :)

CHACHI
02-11-2011, 02:04 PM
IMO they will all get the job done so pick one you like that fits and put it on. It's good protection. :)

We are talking strainers here, right?






OK, I took some poetic license with Carl's post.

Ken

Carl C
02-11-2011, 02:10 PM
We are talking condoms here, right?
:nilly::nilly::nilly::nilly:

Fishermanjm
02-11-2011, 02:33 PM
I'm listening carl,,, its the above water line and below water line that has me puzzled now, seems like below water line for ease of cleaning and priming and above water line for???

realbold
02-11-2011, 02:52 PM
We are talking strainers here, right?
Ken
:rofl:

Carl C
02-11-2011, 03:04 PM
I'm listening carl,,, its the above water line and below water line that has me puzzled now, seems like below water line for ease of cleaning and priming and above water line for???

Mine is below the water line. If I have to open it on the water I will get a little water in the bilge. I can plug the inlet temporarily though as soon as I lift the lid. No big deal. At worst I might get a gallon of water in the boat, probably much less. Usually you will clean it at home on the trailer though.

Fishermanjm
02-11-2011, 03:12 PM
Ok got it, i will mount mine on the starboard side next to the battery on that shelf, will it matter if the inlet line or even the outlet line to the pump has a bend or if its lower or higher than the pump on the engine?

roadtrip se
02-11-2011, 03:15 PM
Slight difference between the engine room in my Formula and the one in the Donzi. One, you literally can step down into it and service your strainers or whatever else suits your fancy. The other? I just feel lucky to be able to get out of the bilge without something skinning me alive in the process.

So, packaging is going to limit wherever you decide to put your strainer of choice. I am certainly not going to put it on the bulkhead, because I am constantly hitting the fire extinquisher and steering filter already mounted there. I am not going to put it next to the engine, as I already have battery boxes, that I hit every time I go in to check a hose or a plug. So, it is going in the bilge in front of the engine, next to the starboard stringer, where I can see it, most of the plumbing is out of the way, and I can get to it quickly.

So, isn't all of this debate about above the water line or below a little elementary? Besides, I am not terribly interested in making my engine room look like a boiler room, with hoses, seacocks, and all kinds of other stuff running around. Functionality aside, it just detracts from the looks and the more stuff you shove in there, the more stuff you have to check and the more stuff to go wrong. Chances are that a bellows failure will sink you, before this stuff will any way.

450rrrr
02-14-2011, 12:57 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v255/wowa450rrrr/P1010133.jpg

450rrrr
02-14-2011, 12:58 PM
does the above look ok ..or do you see anything i should change....i think im going to double all clamps

i guess my pic is on the bottom of page 4

CHACHI
02-14-2011, 01:24 PM
Tood, take a look at Carl's (Atomic Tan). He has a factory mounted strainer in his 22 and when you do, post a photo.

Ken

Carl C
02-14-2011, 01:55 PM
does the above look ok ..or do you see anything i should change....i think im going to double all clamps

i guess my pic is on the bottom of page 4

I'm the first to admit that I am no expert on this but I don't know if I'd be comfortable with the plastic parts and that looks like a long twisty run of hose but I guess that isn't a problem if the pressure stays up there. Closed cooling likes more pressure than the 20-25 psi run with raw water cooling. My 525 manual puts max psi at 43 and I run it at 35-40 usually. I know that mine is pretty much a straight shot from the drive to the raw water pump so there is plenty of flow. Mine is also only single clamped.

roadtrip se
02-14-2011, 04:36 PM
Tood, take a look at Carl's (Atomic Tan). He has a factory mounted strainer in his 22 and when you do, post a photo.

Ken

Ken,

I am copying Carl's (AT) set-up. He mounted the Hardin unit I am looking at in the bilge last summer, to replace the one with mutiple nuts, from the factory. He seems to be happy with the location, after several seasons of utilizing one, so I figure what works for him will work for me.

I don't have a picture to post, but I'll post one of mine, when its done.

gcarter
02-14-2011, 04:48 PM
does the above look ok ..or do you see anything i should change....i think im going to double all clamps

i guess my pic is on the bottom of page 4

I know that clear plastic check valve flush fitting is a real common piece. In fact, I took a similar piece out of the TR when I dis-assembled it.
It could easily be replaced w/a bronze tee w/hose barbs on the run, and a ball valve and a barb on the branch. You just have to remember to turn on and off the ball valve when you flush.
Double clamps are a good idea.

zelatore
02-14-2011, 05:28 PM
Double clamps are a good idea.

Usually.

It's standard practice to double clamp any underwater fitting for safety. However there is one situation where it's actually a negative. Occasionally you'll run into a hose fitting where the barb is too short to get the bands of both clamps fully on it. When that happens, the second clamp will just try to compress the hose and actually try to work the hose off the barb. In this case, a single clamp is preferred.

Just a friendly FYI. From the looks of the pictures posted, there would be plenty of room to double clamp. I've never actually lost a hose due to clamp failure, and in fact when you try to remove a hose it's usually a right-b!tch to get it off the barb, but double clamping is awfully cheap insurance.

realbold
02-15-2011, 10:01 AM
A friend of mine's Scarab sunk when the hose came off the water pickup.

CHACHI
02-15-2011, 11:48 AM
Ken,

I am copying Carl's (AT) set-up. He mounted the Hardin unit I am looking at in the bilge last summer, to replace the one with mutiple nuts, from the factory. He seems to be happy with the location, after several seasons of utilizing one, so I figure what works for him will work for me.

I don't have a picture to post, but I'll post one of mine, when its done.
RT,
Look forward to the pics, thanks.

Ken

Blind Horse
07-09-2013, 10:38 AM
I am getting ready to install a bravo water pickup on my 2001 classic 18. I will be keeping the alpha drive and I need to decide what water pickup is needed. After looking at countless threads about water pickups on 18's, it seems like most are using the Stainless Marine transom pickup with a shutoff and maybe a strainer. I have been crawling around in the bilge and I don't see how I would be able to get to the shutoff valve after the engine is installed, there doesn't seem to be enough room to access the shutoff valve if it is on the transom. Why aren't the typical Buck Algonquin or Groco thru-hull strainers being used on Classic 18's? It seems like it would be a more convenient install to me. Are there structural or handling issues with drilling a hole in the bottom of the boat?

Jeff Vander Yacht
2001 Classic 18, 383 MPI

gcarter
07-09-2013, 01:59 PM
If you're referring to a hull bottom pickup, it'll upset the handling.
The Stainless Marine pickup set close to the outdrive won't.
There is the same amount of room behind the engine regardless of boat size.
Here's mine almost done. The oil filter is removed so everything behind it is visible.
The shut off handle rotates downward.

MOP
07-09-2013, 05:43 PM
Do not get it close to the center line of the hull it should be outboard of the stringer 14" to 16" inches from the center line. One of the most common mistakes is getting it to close to the water path for the drive, getting to close causes cavitation and in many causes burn streaks on the prop. It is important not to mount it too deep, the leading edge should be flush with the hull bottom the trailing edge should be about 1/4" down to allow for trimming. At that depth you may find you have too much water pressure at high speed, you should run a water pressure gauge. too much pressure will more than likely will cause your head gaskets to leak if you are raw water cooled. It is a very good idea to run a pressure relief valve, Griz reported near 80 psi at 70 mph. Double clamp all connections it is easy to blow a hose off. Note the pressure relief valve must be located right after the oil cooler, that will keep the high pressure away from the block but keep your oil temp in check.

Phil

gcarter
07-09-2013, 08:51 PM
Actually, the pickup is nowhere near the prop.
If you look at this picture, you'll see the prop is more than 2' aft of the transom and below it.
It does look as though it is at least 14-15" from the center line though.

Blind Horse
07-10-2013, 08:53 PM
I got in touch with Jerry from Stainless Marine this morning and had a great conversation about their transom water pickups. I am sure many of you already know this, but he gave me his opinion on how to install the transom mounted pickup and I was very impressed with his knowledge. He recommended that I install the SM pickup just like you folks have shown in photos. Apparently, the pickup is fabricated with a 20-degree bevel and a Donzi 18 has an added angle on the transom which creates the scoop, and in some cases too much pressure.

He didn't think I should start with a pressure relief valve. I am supposed to install the pickup right out of the box with a pressure gauge and monitor the pressure at low to medium speeds. If the pressure gets higher than I want, I am supposed to trim the 20-degree angle down with a grinder to scoop less water until I get the desired pressure at higher speeds.

I ordered a transom mounted pickup just like the one shown in the photos on this thread and I plan to try and fine tune it to get the pressure right without a pressure relief valve. Lets see how I do. I will report my results in a few weeks. Should be fun...

Carl C
07-11-2013, 03:16 PM
I got in touch with Jerry from Stainless Marine this morning and had a great conversation about their transom water pickups. I am sure many of you already know this, but he gave me his opinion on how to install the transom mounted pickup and I was very impressed with his knowledge. He recommended that I install the SM pickup just like you folks have shown in photos. Apparently, the pickup is fabricated with a 20-degree bevel and a Donzi 18 has an added angle on the transom which creates the scoop, and in some cases too much pressure.

He didn't think I should start with a pressure relief valve. I am supposed to install the pickup right out of the box with a pressure gauge and monitor the pressure at low to medium speeds. If the pressure gets higher than I want, I am supposed to trim the 20-degree angle down with a grinder to scoop less water until I get the desired pressure at higher speeds.

I ordered a transom mounted pickup just like the one shown in the photos on this thread and I plan to try and fine tune it to get the pressure right without a pressure relief valve. Lets see how I do. I will report my results in a few weeks. Should be fun...

It's always best to avoid running a pressure relief valve if you can. I welded up and reshaped the inlet in my Imco shorty. Alan Brown (Brownie) advised me against running a relief valve. I give his opinion a lot of weight!!