It's waaay too quiet around here....

[Phil S]

I'm thinking about switching oils, spark plugs, wires, and outdrive oil. What do ya'll suggest ??





( :outtahere: )

[BobinCovington]

Great subject. Depends on which engine and outdrive of course, and you have opened a subject that will be "actively" discussed and debated. You will get lots of advice on what others think you "need to use". But mainly I say use the best quality oil that meets the requirements for your motor and change it regularly. There is a great site just for oils run by guys who really know their stuff, called bobistheoilguy.com. I valued their opinion pretty heavily.

I am happy with using Redline synthetics in my cars and will use a synth in my boat too. I am going to switch over to Torco in the boat since it has some additives that help my older engine design.

For drive oil (I have an ancient drive with a clutch dog), I am going with the Redline Shockproof Gear Oil. But your choice should be based on your needs since several drives call out for specific spec oils. I did all kinds of searches and then talked to the engineers at Redline, Torco, and several others before I made my choices.

Lastly, if you end up ordering some specialty oil, make sure you can get it from a local source or order it by the case so you aren't waiting for UPS truck when you need an unexpected oil change.

Good luck on your quest :)

[zelatore]

I think you should get some of those Johnny Cash "ring 'o fire" spark plugs. I hear they'll make you so fast you'll get thrown into Folsom prison.

:biggrin.:

[Carl C]

What you do is drill and tap a hole in the engine block just above the oil pan. Put a spark plug in there. Now splice together two plug leads from one of the regular spark plugs (don't worry, there's plenty of juice to fire two plugs). Connect the extra lead to the block spark plug which will now burn off any gas that gets into the crankcase and will prevent oil dilution.:yes:

[zelatore]

Or, if you think you can handle the extra speed drill and tap for 8 plugs, just below the bottom of the stroke for each piston. Wire them in so they fire on the upstroke of the piston (look at a firing order for your engine - you should be able to figure it out) and they'll DOUBLE YOUR POWER!!!

Of course, before you do this you'd better install external steering. :yes:

You won't find this in any of the hot-rodding books because the pros don't want to let all their secrets out. Just by telling you this, I'm sure the black helicopters are being readied to take me out, just as soon as their tech guys trace my IP address. That's why I've got so much travel scheduled lately. Can't be too careful with this sort of explosive information!

[zelatore]

I'm thinking about switching oils, spark plugs, wires, and outdrive oil. What do ya'll suggest ??





( :outtahere: )

I don't think any of that will do you any good until you find the magic prop.

[cutwater]

And honestly, why would you go through all that trouble when you could gain an easy 8 to 10mph by applying SpeedWax to your hull? If you order in the next ten minutes, it's free. You just pay the $79.95 S+H fee!

[mike o]

And honestly, why would you go through all that trouble when you could gain an easy 8 to 10mph by applying SpeedWax to your hull? If you order in the next ten minutes, it's free. You just pay the $79.95 S+H fee!2 bottles please, 8 to 10mph will make me top dog in the 2011 fastest classic thread.............:biggrin.:

[roadtrip se]

I'm thinking a little more trailer talk is in order. Can't get enough of that.

And Mike, if you need a photo guy for the GPS reading, let me know.

[BobinCovington]

I was totally oblivious to the sarcasm....:bonk: I see it now...nice.

(but you have to give me some credit for trying to help)

[Carl C]

I was totally oblivious to the sarcasm....:bonk: I see it now...nice.

(but you have to give me some credit for trying to help)

Then "bobistheoilguy.com" is for real:eek:?

[BobinCovington]

yes...the name sounds like something I made up, but I promise it is a real site. I will try to look for sarcasm before I respond next time.

(I'm an Oregon Duck, so I was having a tough time last night)

[Ghost]

I'm thinking about switching oils, spark plugs, wires, and outdrive oil. What do ya'll suggest ??

( :outtahere: )


I don't think any of that will do you any good until you find the magic prop.


And honestly, why would you go through all that trouble when you could gain an easy 8 to 10mph by applying SpeedWax to your hull? If you order in the next ten minutes, it's free. You just pay the $79.95 S+H fee!

LOL!!!! How'd I miss this?!

Don't forget you can drill holes in the bottom of a traditional deep-v and get the aeration and speed of a stepped hull. The larger the holes the better. It has been shown they are most effective when drilled underway. Deeper water works best.

[Ed Donnelly]

I don't know why you guys are trying to lead him astray with all the stupid ideas that won't work

Spark plugs in the oil pan...REALLY

If you are looking for more speed....simple...

Install a water injection unit just like they use in turbo'd engines

but instead of water or alcohol use a 55% solution of nitro glycerin

you will really get a bang for your buck....Ed

[Ghost]

yes...the name sounds like something I made up, but I promise it is a real site. I will try to look for sarcasm before I respond next time.

(I'm an Oregon Duck, so I was having a tough time last night)

By the way, I haven't read this thread closely enough to know if there was a real discussion going on amidst the rest. If there is, feel free to continue it and sorry for the hijack.

If not, I have an aerodynamic bow rail for sale that adds 4 mph...

[Rumblefish]

By the way, I haven't read this thread closely enough to know if there was a real discussion going on amidst the rest. If there is, feel free to continue it and sorry for the hijack.

If not, I have a aerodynamic bow rail for sale that adds 4 mph...

Keep it hijacked....at least for awhile...

[BobinCovington]

I was the one who Hijacked the thread thinking it was real...you guys all read the post the right way and saw the sarcasm. Don't mind me, back to the regularly scheduled funny replies

[BUIZILLA]

you guys are wimps...

I just got a new 7 pack of Splitfire plugs...

[CHACHI]

you guys are wimps...

I just got a new 7 pack of Splitfire plugs...

Anything to lighten the boat.....been doing it for years, I am running 3 quarts of oil instead of 7 ...........saved 8 pounds. Also went from 20w50 to 5w30 because it is a lighter oil.
Ken

[BUIZILLA]

the more foam a hull has, the higher in the water it sits..

[Tony]

Paint it RED, it'll go way faster!


:drinkbeer:

[Last Tango]

I was the one who Hijacked the thread thinking it was real...you guys all read the post the right way and saw the sarcasm. Don't mind me, back to the regularly scheduled funny replies


Actually, Bob, I think your response was well-timed. It will keep the jokesters on their toes trying to figure out which replies are serious, and which replies are tomfoolery. Makes the thread more challenging. I, for one, cannot be trusted to provide quality information (other than low quality). But I like the link you gave. Hang in there! This thread could surprise you and turn your way.

[Ghost]

And honestly, why would you go through all that trouble when you could gain an easy 8 to 10mph by applying SpeedWax to your hull? If you order in the next ten minutes, it's free. You just pay the $79.95 S+H fee!

Make sure you follow the directions. Counterclockwise swirls in the northern hemisphere, clockwise in the southern, or you'll lose 8-10 mph.

[zelatore]

Say....you aren't running one of those outdated Bravo drive are you? Because we all know the big boys are running custom shorty Alphas. They're good for ...




...wait for it...




...triple digits!

[Greg Guimond]

Take this, or these, you big block-block-block bench racin, trailer totin, elder brethren :outtahere:

Should be worth a 1/4mph on GPS :biggrin.:

[gero1]

first you need to be a fleet owner, then spend a significant amount of time tuning such as changing oil and spark plugs and a few props(its all about the super tune) and the last thing you need is chrome!!!! chrome horn cover=4 hp, chrome shifter= 10hp, chrome battery box=25 hp 50hp if ya 2! for a total of 64 bolt on hp

[zelatore]

...it's all ball bearings these days...

[Phil S]

"The larger the holes the better. It has been shown they are most effective when drilled underway. Deeper water works best."


Saltwater, or fresh ????? :rlol:

[Phil S]

Enjoying the laughs....


(Credit to Bob, till he picked it up...and thanks Bob...just funnin' around here !)

At this point, I've drilled holes in my oil pan, engine block, started with one, now up to 7, bought a seven-pack of split-fire plugs, ordered a magic prop and some wax....for free (s & h not included), and a bow-rail ! (Does that "Great-Stuff" count as "foam" ? )

Anything else ?? :wrench:

[hardcrab]

Make sure you follow the directions. Counterclockwise swirls in the northern hemisphere, clockwise in the southern, or you'll lose 8-10 mph.

The tests were performed along the equator - your results may vary

[maddad]

Phil, I've heard that adding a bimini will help it fly steadier and higher in the water, like a wing. The bigger the better.

[roadtrip se]

Pull your motor, lift the hull off the trailer in the air, check the entire bottom for imperfections, drop it down on dollies and remove the windshield, flip her over, grind and fix all of the bottom imperfections, sharpen the running edges, and pay attention to the transom area in particular for a hook.

Next, install solid motor mounts or design a cradle if you plan on something beyond 500 horses and want the hull to stay glued together. Then, in the bilge, install a sandwich layer of glass weave, some coring, and another sandwich layer of glass, and then finish with gel as a primer for a bilge coat. Make sure all of this glues the stringers down. In the process, check the integrity of the transom and make sure there are no voids.

Run a twin ram steering system of your choice all the way to the helm. Assist don’t get it done. Measure for the rams and get them mounted inside of the tabs, so your pivot points are shorter and provide a more solid support system. Go with an external steering reservoir, so you can actually monitor the fluid level. Back up your rams, tabs, and any other outside mounted hardware that comes through the transom with stainless plates, all of it, no short cuts.

Buy and install decent headers. Forget about diverters, as you will have reversion issues sooner or later. No, you won’t see miracle enhancements in your numbers, but that engine has got to breath. And the weight reduction should make the boat fly and land flatter with more predictability.

Install power that will get you home. Error on the side of being conservative. Low compression, big cubes, and normally aspirated will help you finish at the typical rally. A drag racer engine builder does not necessarily make a marine engine builder. Also, the “fastest” boat at the docks isn’t always the fastest boat on the water, because of what I just said in the previous sentence.

Get your tabs out of the water. Yes, some need them, but when they are in the water, they are scrubbing speed. Enough said.

A raised x-dim is your friend. I like the XR upper tied to an IMCO XR 2-inch shorty, but some don’t. A heavy duty transom assembly keeps things from moving around a lot less. Replace the flywheel when the engine is out, as it is a cheap part. Borrow and try props until you can’t stand it anymore. Repeat. Then, buy some. Get to know and trust your prop tuner and let them check your good stuff out on every off season. I like Juile and Matt at Throttle-Up.

Buy a trailer that suits your needs.

Take it to the water, take it slow, wear a good life vest, stay sober, and push it when you are comfortable with what the boat does, and you know what it will do next instinctively. Dress her up and take it to a rally. Enjoy. Repeat.

Wouldn't change a thing. At least for now. Oh, and I like Rotella or Valvoline Racing, Lucas, NGK, WIX, Latham, Livorsi, Mercury, Hydromotive, Precision, MYCO, and Manning brands. All good.

[Phil S]

Dang it RT....just once...couldn't you have left that whole...."stay sober"...part out of it..?? :)

Jus' kiddin'....great info, and awesome write-up ! Thanks for your post ! Tryin' to fit 10 lbs of sand in a 5-lb bag must've been hard !!

Now, what trailer should I buy ? :rolleyes:

[BUIZILLA]

you were doing pretty good until you got to the Rotella.. :lightning

[roadtrip se]

I know, I know. Just thought I would throw out WHY I use certain products as opposed to just an opinion.

And then there is that sobriety part, but there is plenty of time for bushwackers and everything else on the docks, when the boats are parked! Mix in some awesome cooking and it is all good.:beer:

And I said I was done for now last night? Far from it, really. Shopping for sea strainer and fuel return systems right now. So, if someone has an opinion, based on some real world experience, shoot away. Heck, shoot away, any way, as it makes for a good laugh!

[Carl C]

OK, we've taken a serious turn here. I'm using Quiksilver 25w40, changed 3 times per season (about every 15-20 hours) and Wix filter. I'm still leery of running full synthetic in the 525. Is the 25w40 a good choice?

I'm using the Quicksilver "high performance gear lube", the green stuff. I change it once per season.

I guess I just figure you can't go wrong using the top of the line lubricants from the manufacturer. Any opinions welcome.

Todd, this is my sea strainer set-up. The SS raw water pump is very cool. I don't know why they used a plastic pump on a $40,000 racing engine. http://www.donzi.net/forums/showpost.php?p=566666&postcount=38

Oh, I got rid of the pressure regulator and dump. I really don't need it and if it were to stick open it could be very bad!

[Fishermanjm]

carl do u really change the oil in the engine every 15-20 hrs???

[zelatore]

Does this mean the fun is over? :confused:

But I had so much to add!

[roadtrip se]

Carl, that is a good looking piece for a water pump. So, what was your thinking on placement of the strainer? I am thinking of mounting mine down in the bilge in front of the motor. And what is your brand? I am thinking Hardin due to the basket and lid design, but haven't commited to anything yet.

Zel, oh, I predict this will get funny again, real soon. Please have at it. Notice me walking a wide circle around Carl's oil comments? I will say that I change it at about the same interval that he does, or when it is dirty.

[Sweet Cheekz]

I think for Carl thats about every other week in the summer.:biggrin.:

Parnell

[zelatore]

Changing oil is all a scam from the oil companies. Heck, my BMW's on-board computer says you don't need to change the oil for 10,000+ miles, even after doing track days. And you wouldn't want to second-guess German Engineers, would you? :smash:

I figure if a twin turbo 6 can go 10, 12K miles between changes, I should be able to get 5 or 6 seasons out of the boat. After all, it holds more oil and I don't cover that many miles with it each year.

As for brand, they're all the same. I heard from an insider source that there's only one refinery located somewhere in the Northwest Province and they just put the same stuff in everybody's different bottles. You should just buy the cheapest stuff you can find instead of paying for all that fancy marketing.

(hey, RT said I should carry on...)

[yeller]

Changing oil is all a scam from the oil companies. ...I agree! As the saying says, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"! I ain't never changed the oil in my boat, and the engine ain't broke....so I ain't changin' it. I change the oil in my truck when the 'red' light comes on. Figure that's the best way of tellin'! Boat gots no red light. Figure don't need to be changed.

You suckers do what you want....15~20hrs...jeeshhh!

[BUIZILLA]

As for brand, they're all the same. I heard from an insider source that there's only one refinery located somewhere in the Northwest Province and they just put the same stuff in everybody's different bottles. You should just buy the cheapest stuff you can find instead of paying for all that fancy marketing.
ahem..

[fogducker III]

....your suppose to put oil in the engine......:confused:

[Rumblefish]

Nice to see the thread back...

By the way. I burn candles next to my 22 before every outing..

[Carl C]

carl do u really change the oil in the engine every 15-20 hrs???

Yup. I change oil & filter & run it on the hose before putting it away for the winter. I change it two other times during the season.


Carl, that is a good looking piece for a water pump. So, what was your thinking on placement of the strainer? I am thinking of mounting mine down in the bilge in front of the motor. And what is your brand? I am thinking Hardin due to the basket and lid design, but haven't commited to anything yet.


There weren't a lot of options and that hose is so stiff that the fittings have to be in near perfect alignment. That was really the only place I could put it. It's from Teague.

The service manual for the 525 says to change the oil & filter "every 25 hours or 30 days, whichever occurs first" It also calls for the Mercruiser 25w40 so that is what I use.

OK, this is getting way too serious.......:nilly:

I just realized that if I followed the shop manual I would be doing SEVEN oil changes per year...."every 30 days"........eek!

[Sweet Cheekz]

ahem..


I agree with Jim


Parnell

[GBond]

Hey Phil S...Hope to see ya on Hartwell this Summer!:kingme:

[roadtrip se]

Nice to see the thread back...

By the way. I burn candles next to my 22 before every outing..

I have a good buddy who really does only change his oil every four to five seasons. For real? For real. I refuse to tow him and call our local version of Sea Tow when he breaks. Figure he can afford it with the deferred maintenance program he is on.

So about this candle thing? Do you use scented or unscented. Is there some sort of ritual involved. Must the sun be below the horizon and the moon full?
How many candles are needed? Sounds like a boat god seance of some sort and I am all over it, if it helps my performance numbers.

[Carl C]

Leave the bananas at home :nilly:

[Rumblefish]

I have a good buddy who really does only change his oil every four to five seasons. For real? For real. I refuse to tow him and call our local version of Sea Tow when he breaks. Figure he can afford it with the deferred maintenance program he is on.

So about this candle thing? Do you use scented or unscented. Is there some sort of ritual involved. Must the sun be below the horizon and the moon full?
How many candles are needed? Sounds like a boat god seance of some sort and I am all over it, if it helps my performance numbers.

Thats Great! As we all know how petroleum oil has improved in the last ten years and will last twice as long in a (gas) engine. I still too hear those same horror storys about NOT CHANGING OIL..

Oil oxidation is still the same... and left in any engine creates a rusty friction that will.. well you know the rest. Have your friend spend his $$ on his TOW usa membership.

On a serious note: Burning candels are essential in your pre trip routine. Sure the things like.. Fuel. Life vests. first aid kits are important.. but nothing makes you feel as good or confident as "burning a candle" before you take off with your pals.

No it wont improve your performance, but you will never have to worry about that strange humming noise comming front the back of the outdrive that just popped up....

[Ghost]

4-5 mph from the new Dyson prop. And it's whisper quiet.

http://www.geeky-gadgets.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/dyson-fan.jpg

[Phil S]

4-5 mph from the new Dyson prop. And it's whisper quiet.

http://www.geeky-gadgets.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/dyson-fan.jpg

Now that's the info I've been lookin' for brutha !!

I'm runnin' Slick-50 now....was just lookin' for "the edge"...

Thank ya'...and if you can send me orderin' info on that bad-boy, I'll be waiting for ya at the dock...

[Phil S]

Hey Phil S...Hope to see ya on Hartwell this Summer!:kingme:

Water levels kept me away these past couple of summers, but if they do a better job managing it this year I will definitely be there...awesome lake ! Spent most of our days on Keowee & Jocassee last summer. Let me know when you are heading out my friend !

With kind regards,
Phil S.

[Phil S]

....Oil, shmoil....I wasn't looking for facts, much less opinions,...I want suggestions...dang it !! :wink:

[Just Say N20]

We all know Cats run faster with similar power than V-bottoms, but that would be such an expensive modification, not to mention the potential negative effect on the appearance.

I think Fabio Buzzi was on the right track with the whole wing idea, he just didn't go big enough.

What you need is a wing/radar arch that is large enough to generate the lift necessary to cause your boat to "fly" just above the water, thereby completely eliminating that pesky drag from the water on the hull.

Location of the wing might not be "appearance neutral" because it would have to be located at the fore/aft center of gravity, which might place it in an odd location.

There you go. An easy 15 mph. :yes: .

And think of all the interesting dock conversations your boat will now be the center of.

[BUIZILLA]

if we all wear jackets with helium, does that lighten the load? :wink:

[Carl C]

How about big rubber balloon tires to roll across the water?

[Ghost]

How about big rubber balloon tires to roll across the water?

You'll pick up some speed filling them with helium.

[Rumblefish]

....Oil, shmoil....I wasn't looking for facts, much less opinions,...I want suggestions...dang it !! :wink:

Your Right Phil.. no more facts

Add a nice 3hp kicker motor on the transom..(color match of course)
You can troll when fishing.. use it as a step ladder, and if left on all the time.. gotta be worth 3-5 mph.

Best of all.. you never have to worry..shes a twin screw now.

Thats my suggestion

[roadtrip se]

I like the idea of the kicker motor as a swim ladder. Best idea I have seen here so far on how to accomplish the dicey task of re-entering the boat. But you might want to shut it off, before utilizing it for this function.

I just clicked on the latest hot boating topic from MOP and scarred the bejesus out of myself:

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64137

But then it got me to thinking. One cannot be too careful out on the water from the imminent terrorist attack, so besides loading up your usual hand-to-hand combat materials for the next trip to the lake, I am thinking of mounting a surplus scud missle on the back of the Donzi. Besides offering the serious look of detente, as in don't mess with this guy he is a packing, you fire that baby off and it ought to be good for a 15-20 mile per hour increase just in the recoil.

Now, we are talking.

[Rumblefish]

But then it got me to thinking. One cannot be too careful out on the water from the imminent terrorist attack, so besides loading up your usual hand-to-hand combat materials for the next trip to the lake, I am thinking of mounting a surplus scud missle on the back of the Donzi. Besides offering the serious look of detente, as in don't mess with this guy he is a packing, you fire that baby off and it ought to be good for a 15-20 mile per hour increase just in the recoil.

Now, we are talking.[/quote]

Nice one.. you may need a wing man...

[zelatore]

We all know Cats run faster with similar power

So if I'm reading this right, then we've all been duped! The big OEM power guys have been using GM cores for their motors. But the real race guys, the truly fast, have no trouble blowing past anything with a stock Merc or Volvo (i.e. GM) powerpant.

What are they using? What's their big secret? Why won't they open the hatch?

I'm here to blow the lid off this!

Clearly, they're running Mercury power. Not Merc Marine - no, no, no, as we've already identified, Cats are faster. I believe the big secret is that they're running Mercury Cougar motors!

That's why Ford had to axe Mercury - the fast boat guys were worried that too many people would put two and two together and as they are a connected lot, they pulled a few strings and called in a few favors in Dearborn and the next thing you know *poof* - no more Mercury, and no more Cougar.

Of course, the Cougar didn't really disappear. The fast guys weren't about to see their secret go-fast source dry up. Under cover of night, during a supposed 'change over' of the facilities, the entire production line quietly moved to an undisclosed location in the far east. There they have imported a select group of former Cougar technicians to build a very limited supply of these ultra-fast motors. They keep them happy and living like kings with unlimited booze and hookers so the secret doesn't leak out.

But it's out now, all do to JustsayN2O's little slip of the tongue. If I were you, I'd be watching my back man! You've just made some powerful enemies!

[Phil S]

"Cougar-Power" is the Bomb ! Heck, even if you welded two V-10's together, you'd still come up short of the horsepower that one 40-plus cylinder Cougar puts out. :wink: :yes:

[gcarter]

Speaking of 40 plus cylinders, does anyone remember this?

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41858&d=1231212180

The idea was to build a 3,000 HP fighter engine that was no wider than a pilots butt!
The project ran out of time and Curtiss Wright's heart wasn't in it, but it's a fascinating engine!:nilly::yes:
It's a 42 cylinder radial that consists of 7 rows of six cylinders each. Each bank had a single head w/an over head cam and two valves per cylinder. I seem to remember the most it did was about 2,400 HP @ about 3,300 RPM.
The sucker has a tiny cross section but it's about 8' long w/the blower and all the coolers.
But maybe this still could be the answer!