Some progress.....

[fogducker III]

I have attached some pics of the progress on the rebuild.......got the motor back late on Tuesday, slapped a coat of paint on, yes I know it is ORANGE....my other half suggested matching the "piping" on the interior upholstry...once all the componets are on it looks OK......Procharger mounted, couple of more things tomorrow and off to the dyno........http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g139/kozavu/Emoticons/papa.gif

[Sweet Cheekz]

Looking good FD Whats the goal for dyno?

Parnell

[fogducker III]

Looking good FD Whats the goal for dyno?

Parnell


That it starts and runs....:eek::wink:

I really don't know what kind of numbers to expect, depending on who you ask it ranges from 500-600hp.....:confused:

The motor was a stock 385hp, all new internals with a little head work...:lookaroun:

If it pulls 500+ I'm happy, aiming for a reliable engine next season...:crossfing:

[Sweet Cheekz]

500 and reliable is a noble goal. Good Luck

Parnell

[fogducker III]

500 and reliable is a noble goal. Good Luck

Parnell


Thank you............question........do you know where I could find a basic description/diagram of what the basic wiring I need to hook up to dyno the motor?

The local shop that has the dyno has not done "marine" application motors before, they know what to hook up but wiring colour coding is different then automotive obviously.

Basically, I don't want to fully dress the motor and hump it down to the dyno, just the basics - fuel pump and regulator, water hoses bypassed at the thermostat housing, they have a self contained water/cooling system, obviously we have to use there "stock" dyno headers.......what about engine oil? Do I need to install my complete oil system including oil cooler, remote filter etc..??

I have never had an engine on a dyno so I really don't know what they will have and what they won't....:garfield::confused:

What the main concern is what wires are connected.....

[HallJ]

You'll need 12v ,switched 12v and ground.
You may need a regular water pump. The seawater pump may not move enough water without the head pressure of the boat moving.
A car thermostat housing may also be necessary.
They will need a place to put dyno coolant temp, fuel press, intake manifold press and oil temp sensors.
It would also be good to monitor the air intake temp after the inter-cooler.
do you have a pump and heat exchanger for the inter cooler?
Bring the fuel pump you intend on using in the boat you'll want to make sure it's big enough.
What ECU are you using? Will you be able to program it?
Is it possible to run the marine exhaust? You can use the garden hose to cool it. Use your oiling system with the cooler otherwise you may have to wait in between runs to let oil cool down, it's also just a good idea. Your wiring harness will need power for the fuel pump relay, the injector relay. The ECU will require switched power. Might as well run your marine starter as well.

Could you give some history of your engine project?

Jeff

[fogducker III]

You'll need 12v ,switched 12v and ground.
You may need a regular water pump. The seawater pump may not move enough water without the head pressure of the boat moving.
A car thermostat housing may also be necessary.
They will need a place to put dyno coolant temp, fuel press, intake manifold press and oil temp sensors.
It would also be good to monitor the air intake temp after the inter-cooler.
do you have a pump and heat exchanger for the inter cooler?
Bring the fuel pump you intend on using in the boat you'll want to make sure it's big enough.
What ECU are you using? Will you be able to program it?
Is it possible to run the marine exhaust? You can use the garden hose to cool it. Use your oiling system with the cooler otherwise you may have to wait in between runs to let oil cool down, it's also just a good idea. Your wiring harness will need power for the fuel pump relay, the injector relay. The ECU will require switched power. Might as well run your marine starter as well.

Could you give some history of your engine project?

Jeff

Thanks for the input, the attached link is some detail on the build.

My ECM was reprogramed by Mark Boos in the US, he had all the details of the motor and what I would like to see from it, he is confident it should do well as is, perhaps a little rich but better than too lean...:yes:

I have figured out all the gauges required and their placement for the dyno, just wasn't sure of the wiring, I am trying to find the boat end of an old wiring harness so we can just plug it in to the engine and hook up what we need by colour....:crossfing:

Good points about the oil and water, I will install the complete oil system and look into boosting the water pressure from the raw water pump....it is not possible to use the marine exhausts with this dyno, it will be stock automotive headers which we expect will run a little leaner on the dyno then the marine exhaust will in the boat, which is a good thing...the fuel pump and regulator are brand new and specifically designed for this application.

We are off to Mexico for a week tomorrow so aiming for a dyno run on the 20th.....:crossfing:

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=63837

[HallJ]

Did you change to a 2bar MAP sensor? or are you using a rising rate fuel press regulator?

This looks like good project:shades:

Jeff

[fogducker III]

Did you change to a 2bar MAP sensor? or are you using a rising rate fuel press regulator?

This looks like good project:shades:

Jeff

Fuel regulator that came with the fuel pump and works in tandem.....:yes:

I am looking forward to the dyno which will put my mind at ease when I install the motor in the boat......:boggled:

[HallJ]

Do you have a way to retard the ignition timing with boost?
Bigger injectors?

Jeff

[fogducker III]

Do you have a way to retard the ignition timing with boost?
Bigger injectors?

Jeff

I am only aiming at 5lbs of boost so I was told the re-program on the ECM along with basically a stock engine rebuild as well as the electric fuel pump and regulator and the right initial timing should be OK....:confused:

[HallJ]

Reducing the initial timing will adversely affect idle and off boost performance.
Take 10 degrees of timing out of your daily driver and see if you find it acceptable.

I don't mean to be nosy or get all up in your business, I just want you to have the best performance out of your setup:wink:

A 2bar map sensor will allow the computer to properly control the engine
throughout it's new operating range. Together with the right size injectors and correct ECU program, you'll have a killer setup with great performance and drivability like when it left the factory.

http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/mapsensor.htm

Jeff

[fogducker III]

Reducing the initial timing will adversely affect idle and off boost performance.
Take 10 degrees of timing out of your daily driver and see if you find it acceptable.

I don't mean to be nosy or get all up in your business, I just want you to have the best performance out of your setup:wink:

A 2bar map sensor will allow the computer to properly control the engine
throughout it's new operating range. Together with the right size injectors and correct ECU program, you'll have a killer setup with great performance and drivability like when it left the factory.

http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/mapsensor.htm

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, I will look into this some more, learning stuff about this every day, I appreciate the input and take no offence to anything..:wink:

[fogducker III]

Reducing the initial timing will adversely affect idle and off boost performance.
Take 10 degrees of timing out of your daily driver and see if you find it acceptable.

I don't mean to be nosy or get all up in your business, I just want you to have the best performance out of your setup:wink:

A 2bar map sensor will allow the computer to properly control the engine
throughout it's new operating range. Together with the right size injectors and correct ECU program, you'll have a killer setup with great performance and drivability like when it left the factory.

http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/mapsensor.htm

Jeff


I just checked out the"stock" MAP that is installed on my engine, according to that link, the number on my sensor, 038-6011, is a 1 Bar, which is for N/A motors...? Why would I have that on a MPI set-up?

I will try and find a 2 Bar which as you point out, makes more sense for a Procharger application....:yes:

Again, I appreciate the info, wonder why I have not come across this info before...:confused:

[HallJ]

If you have questions, feel free to ask.

My brother does the programing and testing of setups like this on the dyno quite frequently.
people will bring their cars in that were never setup properly
by whoever installed it. They run poorly and have band-aid add-ons that didn't need to be there in the first place.

Jeff

[HallJ]

What's the part number of the injectors? did you put bigger ones in?

Jeff

[fogducker III]

What's the part number of the injectors? did you put bigger ones in?

Jeff

Not sure of the injector part number, I will have a look, they are stock.................:frown:

PS. That link for the MAP appears to be automotive related, any difference?

[HallJ]

I think your system uses GM sensors. What's the distributor look like?

Jeff

[fogducker III]

I think your system uses GM sensors. What's the distributor look like?

Jeff

Here is the dist and injectors.....

[HallJ]

Yep, GM dizzy, MAP sensor and coil. the temp sensors are probably GM as well.

36 lb./hr injector should get you to 500hp while keeping your injector duty cycle down with some head room for later.

I would recommend a Bosch or Denso injector. Siemens are good too.

Unfortunately after changing to the correct MAP sensor and the injectors, you will need to get your ECU reprogrammed for these changes, better than burring your engine down. Fortunately you've got a big enough fuel pump.

After the ECU is reprogrammed the dyno operator will wind the fuel press up and down to get the desired A/f ratio depending on how close the ECU program is.

If you do your job, the ECU can do It's job.

Jeff