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superhatz
11-28-2010, 02:19 PM
As some may remember, I bought a very original 1970 18 2+3 awhile back. Well...last week, I finally got around to putting the boat on stands and planed on wet sanding and buffing the gelcoat...and repairing some chips and dings...blisters...trying to maintain the most originality I can. I don't mind a little "patina".

Anyway...my boat is very original but in much worse shape than I thought. Don't get me wrong..It's still my "dream" 18, but I don't really need more $hit to fix...I'm not giving up.

The hull has "pox" (many small blisters) and a lot of stress cracks on the gel. The cracks extend up the sides...which is original black gel...with an Inca Gold stripe.

Double anyway...I'd like to repair the gel as best as possible to maintain originality. The boat will always be trailered and kept in my garage. I'm aware paint would be easier but I'd like some advice in repairing the gel...the cracks worry me a bit....they are very long. Do I need to re-gel the whole hull?...grind it all off?

Long winded thanks!

-Aaron

gcarter
11-28-2010, 03:57 PM
Do I need to re-gel the whole hull?...grind it all off?

-Aaron


Yes.
They (the tool companies) make hand planers thet will remove the gel in about 4" wide strips. Other alternatives would be to blast it off, or grind it. The osmotic blisters will have to be completely removed, even if it continues below the glass surface under the gel.
Let me tell you Aaron, it is a lot of fun to fair the new gel after you've taken the old gel off.
I won't be the one to tell you there mey be other opportunities out there.

superhatz
11-28-2010, 06:04 PM
Thanks George....so you're saying making spot repairs to the hull would be worth it?...just grinding out each blemish and filling? The hull still "sounds" okay...doesn't seem to be delaminating?

gcarter
11-28-2010, 06:41 PM
You can grind out the cracks, but all the little blisters (on the bottom, right?), well, all that gel has to come off.

You can grind out the cracks, over fill them w/polyester putty, then sand the surface fair, then re-gel.

superhatz
11-28-2010, 10:37 PM
George...you are a total buzz-kill....:)

Thanks!

mrfixxall
11-29-2010, 12:29 AM
what george said!

their is a easy way to do it,,
have the bottom soda blasted,fix the cracks bt grinding them out then flare it out then fill with vinyl ester resin and woven mat,grind it out again and fill with durates vynelester fairing putty..you can use the duratec on the blisters also..after filling the repairs get a long board and block the whole bottom with 80 grit then follow with 120..after you have the whole bottom blocked out..

if the bottom of your boat is straight you could also use duratec's vinylester fairing primer to fill the blisters http://www.duratec1.com/dp16.html
but i like to use the putty because i can control the thickness and not waste as much material..after you have the cracks repaired and the blisters filled i would use the duratech clear gel additive and mix it 1to1 with the gel coat your going to use http://www.fibreglast.com/product/910/Gel_Coats
with this additive you can spray it on like car paint and dont have to worry about adding wax to the gel so it can cure..you will have to apply more coats the gel and wax but if you use the duratec the finish comes out much better and you will have less sanding when you go to wet sand and buff it..

superhatz
11-29-2010, 12:53 AM
Thanks fixall...that helps quite a bit.

New question?...is the original Donzi white gel a standard white?...can I buy some? Black and Inca Gold too..I guess?

Thanks!

:party:

mrfixxall
11-29-2010, 01:10 AM
Thanks fixall...that helps quite a bit.

New question?...is the original Donzi white gel a standard white?...can I buy some? Black and Inca Gold too..I guess?

Thanks!

:party:

you can cll minicraft but their expensive or try ferro corp,574-935-2131 x2532 ask karen if your color is available,she will send you some color chips and just buff out a spot that is still good on the boat and match it up..

gcarter
11-29-2010, 06:56 AM
The main problem w/the blisters is that they can extend into the glass substrate. They originate from leaving the boat in the water too long and osmotic action actually draws the water through the gel and into the glass. Once under the gel, the water can have some undesirable reaction w/some of the resin by-products and can seriously effect the integrity of the glass. That's why it's important to grind (or blast, I've done it both ways) out the blisters to determine the depth of the problem. More than likely, the damage runs to just below the gel.......but you have to find out.
Aaron, no kidding, this a BIG project. It's not for the faint of heart.
Mike has a lot more experience than I do, particularly w/the various products available, as he does this for a living and I'm just a hobbyist.
As far as the white color goes, Minicraft told me that many boats in the '70's and early '80's used "Classic White" which seems to be somewhat of an industry standard. If you're doing the whole thing over, anything close will work. There must be 50,000 different shades of white.

mike o
11-29-2010, 09:34 AM
Old back issue of professional boat building covered it well. Its still available from PBB.. A lot of chemistry, seems the resin behind the gell reverses the cured reaction and starts to to gas off, like it did when it originally curing. Can find my old issue. type in osmotic blistering in the search box , issue #15,......http://pbb.proboat.com/index.php. Fix is a total vinyl ester barrier or inter protect type stuff, behind the gells substrate.....:cool!: I have a friend with a 2 yr old 60k high end ski boat. Its got "it" bad, gel not covered under warranty, so their telling him......:wrench:

mrfixxall
11-29-2010, 11:45 AM
The main problem w/the blisters is that they can extend into the glass substrate. They originate from leaving the boat in the water too long and osmotic action actually draws the water through the gel and into the glass. Once under the gel, the water can have some undesirable reaction w/some of the resin by-products and can seriously effect the integrity of the glass. That's why it's important to grind (or blast, I've done it both ways) out the blisters to determine the depth of the problem. More than likely, the damage runs to just below the gel.......but you have to find out.
Aaron, no kidding, this a BIG project. It's not for the faint of heart.
Mike has a lot more experience than I do, particularly w/the various products available, as he does this for a living and I'm just a hobbyist.
As far as the white color goes, Minicraft told me that many boats in the '70's and early '80's used "Classic White" which seems to be somewhat of an industry standard. If you're doing the whole thing over, anything close will work. There must be 50,000 different shades of white.


All of what George stated is true,,you will nee a moisture meter to find out for sure if all the water is gone after the bottom of the boat is striped or blasted, if moisture is present your boat will need to sit in a dry garage with dehumidifiers and heat applied to the hulls bottom in order to make the correct repair..i have done thease repairs in my younger years but now i try to stay away from it because of all the time and effort really didn't pay off so now i try to stick to the mechanical aspect of boats..

superhatz
11-29-2010, 05:43 PM
Thanks for the help guys. Unfortunately, I get very attached to things and probably won't give up on this one. I love the originality and color combo...290hp H&M is cool too....

I'll probably redo the hull at some point...but not this year. I'll keep you posted...

:stan:

mrfixxall
11-29-2010, 06:08 PM
Thanks for the help guys. Unfortunately, I get very attached to things and probably won't give up on this one. I love the originality and color combo...290hp H&M is cool too....

I'll probably redo the hull at some point...but not this year. I'll keep you posted...

:stan:

Holy Chit!!! all those bumps will have to be opened up! you will nees to strip the old gel off and start from scratch.. you can use a counter sink bit to open them up..follow this video so you can have a idea on what you are getting into..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0XBPbXKz8s

superhatz
11-29-2010, 06:41 PM
Yeah...like I said..."beat"...:)

Thanks man...

The Hedgehog
11-29-2010, 07:00 PM
Fixx and G are dead on. Your best bet is to find someone that planes gelcoat. That is way too much for the old pop and grind. Figure around $2k to strip that bottom. You may be able to get it done for less but it is kind of like painting. If you watch someone that is good with a gun or planer you will think you are getting ripped off. If you don't have experience and try it yourself.....ouch.

Listen to these guys carefully. It needs to be good and dry before anything goes back on.

gcarter
11-29-2010, 08:19 PM
FWIW, years ago, while doing a blister job on a 33' blow boat that I had hired someone to sand blast the gel off of, the 30' power boat next to us had a similar problem. But they were using a sand blaster w/ a fan shaped ceramic nozzle that had water piped into the nozzle. That setup did a good job. The operator was able to so cleanly blast off the gel and resin that the outer course of glass was identifiable. It left a nearly perfect working surface. Of course it took an additional month or so to dry the hull. This is also something I can reccomend.

mrfixxall
11-29-2010, 11:28 PM
FWIW, years ago, while doing a blister job on a 33' blow boat that I had hired someone to sand blast the gel off of, the 30' power boat next to us had a similar problem. But they were using a sand blaster w/ a fan shaped ceramic nozzle that had water piped into the nozzle. That setup did a good job. The operator was able to so cleanly blast off the gel and resin that the outer course of glass was identifiable. It left a nearly perfect working surface. Of course it took an additional month or so to dry the hull. This is also something I can reccomend.


i think its dry ice blasting you are refering to..some cool stuff,they did this to my building when we had smoke damage from a fire and it did a really good job..

http://www.coldjet.com/en/information/what-is-dry-ice-blasting.php

OFFSHORE GINGER
11-30-2010, 08:38 PM
Hey guy , the best thing you could do to take care of the bottom is................. flip it , which depends on your age and weather or not you really want to work on your back & seeing the boat is only a 16 footer ........why not make it easy on yourself and the funny thing is i always see people suggesting ( Woven Roven ) which once again is very old school because there are far better fabrics out there which are far more user friendly depending on what type of resin is used Epoxy , Poly or Vinyl .......1708 -1808 -or S & E glass or Bi - Ax , ext , ext and this just might help you have a better understanding of Duratec products on one page which should give you a better idea of some of there products . http://www.expresscomposites.com/duratec1.html

mphatc
11-30-2010, 08:46 PM
Aaron,

Please do me a favor tomorrow morning, connect the two rear boat stands with a chain . . the only thing that keeps them from sliding out is the outer chine . . and that isn't safe.

Mario L.

superhatz
11-30-2010, 08:53 PM
Aaron,
Please do me a favor tomorrow morning, connect the two rear boat stands with a chain . . the only thing that keeps them from sliding out is the outer chine . . and that isn't safe.
Mario L.

Done...thanks Mario. Fischer Price's My First Boat Stands.

:)

superhatz
11-30-2010, 09:03 PM
Hey guy , the best thing you could do to take care of the bottom is................. flip it , which depends on your age and weather or not you really want to work on your back & seeing the boat is only a 16 footer ........why not make it easy on yourself and the funny thing is i always see people suggesting ( Woven Roven ) which once again is very old school because there are far better fabrics out there which are far more user friendly depending on what type of resin is used Epoxy , Poly or Vinyl .......1708 -1808 -or S & E glass or Bi - Ax , ext , ext and this just might help you have a better understanding of Duratec products on one page which should give you a better idea of some of there products . http://www.expresscomposites.com/duratec1.html

Thanks Ginger. I'm assuming you mean take the deck off?...or someone mentioned a boat rotisserie??...

I think I can get by with re-gelling the hull and just patching the sides and deck a bit? The cracks only go up about 2 inches into the black (and green stripe) My understanding is that I can dig the cracks out a bit, dry them and fill with filler, then color matched gel to a certain thickness?

Thanks,
Aaron

gcarter
11-30-2010, 09:40 PM
Aaron, I'd strongly suggest that you get your mind around the fact that this is a mojor project. You need to strip the boat (deck off, engine and drive out, and be prepared to do whatever it takes.
Maybe not all at one time, but you (or anyway else) can't do any proper repairs w/the boat together. Maybe start w/the obvious thing, take the deck off, then strip out the drive train. This can be fun.

gcarter
11-30-2010, 09:58 PM
And Aaron, it's almost Christmas, so buy yourself a pair of these;

http://www.williamsengineering.net/7m.html

Greg Guimond
11-30-2010, 10:09 PM
What state are you in Aaron?

superhatz
11-30-2010, 10:28 PM
And Aaron, it's almost Christmas, so buy yourself a pair of these;

http://www.williamsengineering.net/7m.html

Thanks George...I really want a set of those for my Magnum too...:)

superhatz
11-30-2010, 10:30 PM
What state are you in Aaron?

Minnesota...:lame2:

OFFSHORE GINGER
11-30-2010, 11:16 PM
Thanks Ginger. I'm assuming you mean take the deck off?...or someone mentioned a boat rotisserie??...

I think I can get by with re-gelling the hull and just patching the sides and deck a bit? The cracks only go up about 2 inches into the black (and green stripe) My understanding is that I can dig the cracks out a bit, dry them and fill with filler, then color matched gel to a certain thickness?

Thanks,
Aaron Hey guy first things first i have flipped 46 footers while working at Skater with no deck on ,and smaller boats with ... and like George stated this boat will not be a walk in the park as far as work goes and from what i gather from this post it is nothing short of afro Eng but.........................who am i to say , considering all you are doing is filling in the crack with a filler which amounts to nothing considering the repair is most likely structural and needs more then just filler .....or should i say Beef ( glass ) to make it right . Hey guy 9 times out of 10 most cracks that i have seen repaired this way will always come back to haunt you ....... and the bottom line is .......if you are going to do it ....do it right !

mrfixxall
12-01-2010, 02:13 AM
What has Ben stated is all true, what ever glass work you do on the out side will need attention on the inside of the hull..the easiest way i have found is drill a 1/8'' hole at each end of the crack.put a tooth pick in each hole,take a piece of this cardboard and poke the tooth pick through the cardboard on each end of the crack,remove the cardboard,paint the crack with some nail polish(black or white) put the cardboard over the crack lining it up with the tooth picks and the drilled holes and hurry up and transfer it to the inside of the hull and now you have a grinding pattern..when grinding go 6'' beyond the hole to give you some working room,also taper the glass mat in different sizes so it makes a nice and neat repair then using the grinder blend it in with the existing glass.

the easiest way to flip your boat is to go to your local power plant and see if they have a left over empty power wire roll thats about 6' round,cut one end off of it and bolt it to the transm where the lower unit was with the existing holes,support the front and roll it over..i think its easier to work on the boat on its side then upside down,you have access at both inside of the boat and the hulls bottom..

superhatz
12-01-2010, 12:33 PM
Hey guy first things first i have flipped 46 footers while working at Skater with no deck on ,and smaller boats with ... and like George stated this boat will not be a walk in the park as far as work goes and from what i gather from this post it is nothing short of afro Eng but.........................who am i to say , considering all you are doing is filling in the crack with a filler which amounts to nothing considering the repair is most likely structural and needs more then just filler .....or should i say Beef ( glass ) to make it right . Hey guy 9 times out of 10 most cracks that i have seen repaired this way will always come back to haunt you ....... and the bottom line is .......if you are going to do it ....do it right !

I wasn't aware that you guys think the cracks in the gelcoat are probably structural?...meaning the actual glass is cracked?

Oh well...like George said...it could be fun. I may need to finish the two (personal) cars I'm restoring first...:drive:

gcarter
12-01-2010, 01:26 PM
I may need to finish the two (personal) cars I'm restoring first...:drive:

Then you need the dollies for sure, to get the boat out of the way.
The dollies will spoil you.

OFFSHORE GINGER
12-01-2010, 03:26 PM
I wasn't aware that you guys think the cracks in the gelcoat are probably structural?...meaning the actual glass is cracked?

Oh well...like George said...it could be fun. I may need to finish the two (personal) cars I'm restoring first...:drive:Hey guy i apologize because i always assume the worst and the bottom line is you will never no untill you start tearing into things and over the years i have seen repair jobs that people have done by just grinding out the cracks with a very small die grinder and filling the crack in with either a gell putty , jell , and or re spray only to have the cracks re-appear again because they were structural and needed to be repaired properly & none the less i think you have a fun little project going on . I would like to mention that if you are not sure if there is a crack or not and have opened it up somewhat i often wipe the area with Acetone to see if it wickes into the laminate which will usally show if there is a crack or not .

gcarter
12-01-2010, 06:59 PM
Aaron, in some years, Donzi's were much too lightly laid up.
In this picture of my port rear corner of the TR, you can see through the side after I sanded off the gel.
In this case, there weren't any cracks but there could have been. I laid in a course of 1708 double diagonal stitchmat on both sides from the transom forward about 5'-6'. It's stiff now.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41469&d=1230407257

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41727&d=1230945948

gcarter
12-01-2010, 07:15 PM
Something else that can be handy and cost very little is using furniture dollies while your working on the hull sides. In this picture, you can see two dollies under the keel, and another two on the other side under the chine. It's pretty useful for good access to everything except the keel area. The furniture dollies have a 60# water softener salt bag on it to spread out the load. You can roll the hull from side to side. Obviously, you can't have the deck or drive train in place to do this because of the weight. Also, while these are dollies, they don't roll around all that well w/the weight of a 22 hull on it.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41462&d=1230347059

superhatz
12-01-2010, 08:53 PM
Thanks George...that's cool. I've got about 20 of those furniture dollies around my shop...great for engines and transmissions...and of course bod shells.

Anyway...a little update....

I took an air-file with some 36 grit to the transom...the blisters leveled out without popping. So...I may just do that...then wet sand and buff....fill the blisters that pop and touch up gel...that sorta thing?...would satisfy me for a couple years.

Then when I have the time to do a full resto, I'll split the deck and do it right. I'd like to have a perfect boat some day.

:pizza:

OFFSHORE GINGER
12-01-2010, 09:35 PM
George , just curious is that how you do your fillet prior to wetting out your fabric ....and if so very interesting .......

gcarter
12-01-2010, 10:14 PM
Artie, before I laid in the 1708, I formed a radius in the inside corner w/polyester putty.
In the picture, I took advantage of the stiffness of the 1708, shoved it into the corners, marked the material in the inside corners, notched the transom corner so that it fit really well, picked up the bottom half of the 1708 and wet it out. Once the bottom half was done, I unclamped the top half, laid it over the bottom half and wet it out. Do you have any suggestions?
Here's a picture after I finished;

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41728&d=1230945948

Sweet Cheekz
12-01-2010, 10:30 PM
And Aaron, it's almost Christmas, so buy yourself a pair of these;

http://www.williamsengineering.net/7m.html

Hey george
I tried buying some of these a few months ago and after taking some work ro get them to answer the man told me they had none and wouldnt have them for a long time.

Parnell

gcarter
12-01-2010, 10:33 PM
Hey george
I tried buying some of these a few months ago and after taking some work ro get them to answer the man told me they had none and wouldnt have them for a long time.

Parnell

Bummer!
I guess things are slow in a lot of areas!
That's too bad.

HallJ
12-10-2010, 05:13 PM
Hey guy , the best thing you could do to take care of the bottom is................. flip it , which depends on your age and weather or not you really want to work on your back & seeing the boat is only a 16 footer ........why not make it easy on yourself and the funny thing is i always see people suggesting ( Woven Roven ) which once again is very old school because there are far better fabrics out there which are far more user friendly depending on what type of resin is used Epoxy , Poly or Vinyl .......1708 -1808 -or S & E glass or Bi - Ax , ext , ext and this just might help you have a better understanding of Duratec products on one page which should give you a better idea of some of there products . http://www.expresscomposites.com/duratec1.html

Is the Ging a customer of Express Composites?

Jeff

Petee390
12-10-2010, 08:30 PM
Hey george
I tried buying some of these a few months ago and after taking some work ro get them to answer the man told me they had none and wouldnt have them for a long time.

Parnell


I tried to buy some as well. They told me that they sold their powder coating business and were moving to another facility. They would have some the begining of Dec. I couldn't wait so i made my own.

Scott

superhatz
07-30-2011, 01:36 PM
Well, after many hours of wet sanding with the Hutchins Water Bug, I've decided the black gel is too far gone. It's totally wasted. I'm a little bummed. I thought I could keep the boat original and make it look good....should have bought a better boat. But I'm not giving up. It's still worth saving.

So...I've decided to paint just the sides now. The deck will probably stay original gel. The hull is cracked and Fuked but not soft, so I'll have to think about that...probably paint that too.

Anyway....black paint over old gel with a few cracks....discuss?

Signed,
Should Have Bought a Better Boat

superhatz
07-30-2011, 01:49 PM
Just re-read the thread. More bummed now.

Wish I had an expert near by to look at this pile....

mphatc
07-30-2011, 06:00 PM
Aaron,

When we do a car restoration I use a shop that does plastic media blasting . .they also do boats .. . and strip off gelcoat . . for this exact repair. I'm certain that you also have a resource for this?

There are many different grits of plastic media dependant on what needs to be removed . .

Mario L.

gcarter
07-30-2011, 06:59 PM
Aaron, just to reiterate, the sides crack because due to too little glass in the sides.
I'd suggest removing the deck and drive train, then do what Mario suggested, add at least one course of 1708 on the insides of the sides for at least 6'-8'. If you do this, the cracks in the sides won't come back, if you don't, they will. BIG waste of time.
Then refinish the sides to your liking.

We all make mistakes in boat purchases, I've now done it twice.

superhatz
07-30-2011, 08:14 PM
Thanks guys...I'll probably end up doing it right. Are you guys going to make fun of me if my boat isn't original gel?...maybe just behind my back?

:pizza:

superhatz
07-30-2011, 08:18 PM
The cracks are mostly on the hull and extend a couple inches up the sides...I was going to stress relieve them with a Dremel and fill with gel or Duraglass...then prime and paint.

I also have to give Fixx and Bill a call....would love to hear what they think. Deep down, I'd like to re-gel.

Broken Record.

:alligator

Conquistador_del_mar
07-30-2011, 08:22 PM
The cracks are mostly on the hull and extend a couple inches up the sides...I was going to stress relieve them with a Dremel and fill with gel or Duraglass...then prime and paint.

I also have to give Fixx and Bill a call....would love to hear what they think. Deep down, I'd like to re-gel.

Broken Record.

:alligator

Aaron,
It will look better with a high gloss paint. Bill

superhatz
07-30-2011, 08:30 PM
Aaron,
It will look better with a high gloss paint. Bill

Yeah, my Magnum is Imron and looks sweet....probably 20 years old too. I'll call you Monday....:)

gcarter
07-30-2011, 08:54 PM
Are you guys going to make fun of me if my boat isn't original gel?...maybe just behind my back?

:pizza:

Are you kidding?
Original gel is OK only on a boat that's probably extraordinary to begin with.
Not many of those around.
You probably DON'T want to re-gel......that's for totally stupid people! :nilly:
Well anyway, that's how I feel about it.

mphatc
07-30-2011, 09:18 PM
Aaron,

My Magnum is Imron as well, and black, no idea how old the paint is, but still shines as new after a quick buff. Best part is that Imron never needs wax!
it's a bit more flexible than gelcoat and a whole lot easier . . . paint it :)

Mario

Conquistador_del_mar
07-30-2011, 11:18 PM
Are you kidding?
Original gel is OK only on a boat that's probably extraordinary to begin with.
Not many of those around.
You probably DON'T want to re-gel......that's for totally stupid people! :nilly:
Well anyway, that's how I feel about it.

George,
I hope you are only joking - :yes:. Your TR is awesome with the new gelcoat, but you know how expensive and laborious the process can be.

mrfixxall
07-30-2011, 11:42 PM
no offence to anybody!! I think some of you need to experiment with gel and duratec clear..it goes on like centari and buffs like lacquer paint..

When going over bare fiber glass after the blisters are removed and most of the sanding is done try duratec VE primer,its like spraying on spot putty!!it goes on so thick it will fill your average blister with 3 coats..i like to strip the blisters off completely,then block the glass then use the ve primer block that then go over with duratec white primer sand with 120 then mix patch aid in the gel with the first 2 coat then the last 3 coats mixed with duratec clear..wet sand and buff..

gcarter
07-31-2011, 06:24 AM
George,
I hope you are only joking - :yes:. Your TR is awesome with the new gelcoat, but you know how expensive and laborious the process can be.

Yes, a joke, or a statement of total frustration!!!!!!
Gel is a lot of work.

gcarter
07-31-2011, 06:41 AM
no offence to anybody!! I think some of you need to experiment with gel and duratec clear..it goes on like centari and buffs like lacquer paint..

When going over bare fiber glass after the blisters are removed and most of the sanding is done try duratec VE primer,its like spraying on spot putty!!it goes on so thick it will fill your average blister with 3 coats..i like to strip the blisters off completely,then block the glass then use the ve primer block that then go over with duratec white primer sand with 120 then mix patch aid in the gel with the first 2 coat then the last 3 coats mixed with duratec clear..wet sand and buff..

What Mike says here is true, although I haven't actually tried it---yet!
However, I suspect if a person were using a dark gel with a neutral base, like the red on the TR, normal gel application would have to be used to build a solid color base because it is so translucent. With lighter colors using a white base, I feel confident it would work w/the additive.

mrfixxall
07-31-2011, 03:05 PM
What Mike says here is true, although I haven't actually tried it---yet!
However, I suspect if a person were using a dark gel with a neutral base, like the red on the TR, normal gel application would have to be used to build a solid color base because it is so translucent. With lighter colors using a white base, I feel confident it would work w/the additive.


G, my next expierment im going to try is to tint the white duratec primer and see if it will change the color close to the oe gel color,,i think red will be tricky and my turn out pink!

they also have this stuff called smoothie,,its a self leveler for gelcoat.. 3/4 page down.

http://gelcoatproducts.com/additives.html

OFFSHORE GINGER
07-31-2011, 04:27 PM
G, my next expierment im going to try is to tint the white duratec primer and see if it will change the color close to the oe gel color,,i think red will be tricky and my turn out pink!

they also have this stuff called smoothie,,its a self leveler for gelcoat.. 3/4 page down.

http://gelcoatproducts.com/additives.html Hey guy you ........ are wasting your time because your biggest problems will occure ..............when using Duratec primer , with Yellow jell coat :nilly:

mrfixxall
07-31-2011, 11:33 PM
Hey guy you ........ are wasting your time because your biggest problems will occure ..............when using Duratec primer , with Yellow jell coat :nilly:


Who said im using yellow?

OFFSHORE GINGER
08-01-2011, 12:54 AM
Who said im using yellow? Hey guy i apologize considering i have been using Duratec products for over 40 years now and thought i would state that you would not have a problem with red other then yellow , and once again i apologize .

superhatz
08-03-2011, 07:29 PM
I've decided to grind out the cracks a bit with a Dremel, then sand and fill any damage with waterproof Duraglas. Then prime with a 2 part Awl Grip Epoxy primer. Then...paint the hull and sides with Imron. The deck will stay original gel....

The boat will never stay in the water and will always be in my garage when not used....should be good??

Feel free to pee in my Cheerios but I'm feeling pretty good about this plan.

:pimp:

gcarter
08-03-2011, 07:45 PM
No one could pee in my Cheerios, I don't eat the yucky things! :wink:

mrfixxall
08-03-2011, 08:32 PM
I've decided to grind out the cracks a bit with a Dremel, then sand and fill any damage with waterproof Duraglas. Then prime with a 2 part Awl Grip Epoxy primer. Then...paint the hull and sides with Imron. The deck will stay original gel....

The boat will never stay in the water and will always be in my garage when not used....should be good??

Feel free to pee in my Cheerios but I'm feeling pretty good about this plan.

:pimp:


it will show in the black paint,,,you need to grind the crack out and feather the exposed area back a few inches,,then lay some fiberglass in a tapered form..duraglass will just bubble over time and will probably crack again over time..

superhatz
08-03-2011, 08:51 PM
it will show in the black paint,,,you need to grind the crack out and feather the exposed area back a few inches,,then lay some fiberglass in a tapered form..duraglass will just bubble over time and will probably crack again over time..

Will do...thanks.

gcarter
08-03-2011, 09:00 PM
Aaron, ya gotta accept it......
There's no easy way to fix this. :wink:

superhatz
08-03-2011, 09:42 PM
Oh geeze George....don't ya know if you keep asking the same question eventually you'll get the answer you're looking for....:nilly:

I'm down.

Conquistador_del_mar
08-03-2011, 10:55 PM
Oh geeze George....don't ya know if you keep asking the same question eventually you'll get the answer you're looking for....:nilly:

I'm down.

Now that is funny-:yes:! Bill

superhatz
08-03-2011, 11:29 PM
Now that is funny-:yes:! Bill

And to think I'm in the car restoration biz.....:party:

BUIZILLA
08-04-2011, 07:08 AM
...........

superhatz
08-11-2011, 07:52 PM
How about JB Weld?

:toiletpap

mrfixxall
08-11-2011, 08:23 PM
How about JB Weld?

:toiletpap


Grind off the gel with 80 grit,,take a rag with lacquer thinner and wipe over the area and look fast before the thinner evaporates..If you can still see the cracks then you need to go deeper and glass over the areas that are effected,if not then fill the area with duratec VE primer and block, feather and blend the area..if its just in the gell i would take the whole boat down to the fiberglass and spray the whole boat with the ve primer and block it flat..ita like when you do your restos on car,the top coat is only as good as whats under it..

major cracks are usually long,,,yours are all squiggly which is usually just bad gel..

superhatz
08-11-2011, 08:35 PM
Grind off the gel with 80 grit,,take a rag with lacquer thinner and wipe over the area and look fast before the thinner evaporates..If you can still see the cracks then you need to go deeper and glass over the areas that are effected,if not then fill the area with duratec VE primer and block, feather and blend the area..if its just in the gell i would take the whole boat down to the fiberglass and spray the whole boat with the ve primer and block it flat..ita like when you do your restos on car,the top coat is only as good as whats under it..

major cracks are usually long,,,yours are all squiggly which is usually just bad gel..

Yeah, that last photo shows the long cracks in the hull...great advice, thanks!

OFFSHORE GINGER
08-11-2011, 08:43 PM
Yeah, that last photo shows the long cracks in the hull...great advice, thanks!Acetone will work just as well if not better , and is something that has been around for ages .:)

CHACHI
08-12-2011, 07:02 AM
Acetone will work just as well if not better , and is something that has been around for ages .:)

And it is a zero VOC solvent.

Don't ask me how I know this.

Ken

OFFSHORE GINGER
08-12-2011, 07:47 AM
And it is a zero VOC solvent.

Don't ask me how I know this.

Ken HA HA HA Now that's funny !